genepires

buy new tools?

I wish I could say that was me. but I can not.

I've been on it in october when there was no snow left covering the crevasses. They are few and very small. And the cracks were no where near the normal natural path up. You would have to go out of your way to get into the cracks zone. With all the snow, a rope is not really needed and I am a glacier scaredy cat. I doubt that you will need crampons either. But if you want to be safe, you could get by easily with the lightweight Aluminum types. enjoy and show us some photos! that place is real nice and my fave in the cascades.

dudes gets out! how many winter summits has it been this winter? nice job.

Rafael, I thought you were a ultra hardman who would have slept on flaked out climbing rope. Isn't that what the usual old eastern block thing way?

It was mentioned above that the road is still gated. So no it is not passable with either a truck or a civic. In the summer, the civic will be fine.

Even with the temps that are a bit warm, it may still be cold over there on the n face. When we went up there a while ago, I thought it was warm in the lot but it was butt ass cold on the face itself. Plus it seems like people are still getting on ice routes when the weather is good. While not a sure thing, I think the probability of the route being there is good enough to warrant the hauling of gear over there. If the route is not there, you have the option of the NE buttress or the standard route up. let us know what you find if you go.

try doing intervals on the bike. (BTW, I have never done this, only heard about it so more research should be done) Go hard (real hard..as hard as you can do for the length of time) for some fixed length of time, like 20 seconds. then go easy spinning for another fixed length of time, like 10 seconds. This is one interval. do this for 5 minutes and add another interval for each workout. Ori Hoffmekler had a workout involving bikes that was intervals but with holding dumbells overhead and such. CFT or something like that. with a bum knee, I wonder if it is less damaging to hit it hard for short periods of time or mellow for longer? Incorporating various dumbell routines into the bike session would increase the workload allowing you to workout for less time and therefore less harm to the knee. good question. maybe Layton will chime in on this.

you may need a special licence to use a ham radio. Where you thinking of the handheld ham radios? I heard that many mtn guides are now bringing them along to be able to have real communications if there is an emergency, something that the locator doesn't allow. (BTW, I think that they are carrying both so they both have their merits) I don't own either and have no real knowledge of this stuff. Fire Jason Martin a PM. I think he has better knowledge of these things.

bring the synthetic jacket for your course. The guide will prolly require it and you will need it as the weather will most likely be less than perfect for at least one day in the six. enjoy!

generally speaking with no forcast for may...bring the synthetic jacket. you could make the call in the last minute though. If the forcast is stellar clear skys, bring the down. If there is any chance of rain/snow, bring the synthetic. What route are you doing and how long are you on baker? these would affect the answer to your question.

beautiful!

well it has been 16 years in the making for Wayne so it is a safe bet to say that this route comes in once every couple decades or so. So you better get after it now cause it may not come back in your lifetime. Maybe climate change will make this route come back more often.

exit 32/38 and/or a rock gym. vantage is a couple hour drive from seattle for "winter/rain on the west side" fun. guidebooks easily available for either areas.

I could climb the tooth is 2.5 days. is that a grade VI? or am I a grade VI sloth?

I think mid to late may is nearing the late end for that route. But mine is only one experience but when we were there, most of people in the "know" had gone through and moved onto other areas. Which means the guided trips were done with it. If we were "late", it was fine cause we had the route to ourselves and one other cool team. How about emailing puryear about his opinion as he has lots of time and knowledge of that area. If another group is above you, you will get clobbered by their ice. get up earlier than other groups. we didn't get up early enough.

from your description, you did not take the way that cbcbd is talking about. There is no rap that way and no way you could miss it and have to climb back up to it. From the top of the nf route, you walk climbers left along the ne buttress route, over a small knob and have to downclimb a small bit to see the correct easy gulley which leads right to the large other gulley (with rap anchors). Jason and I went down the wrong gully also following tracks.

pm me if you just need a left foot rock shoe size 10.5. what am I gonna do with one rock shoe?

still bad ass after a second viewing! how do you find these plums?

sweet! you are mr butte's

kno wurries. u r stil mor cohearant than us in our best dayz. there are plenty of good guide services on baker. AAI, alpine ascents and others have people on that mtn regularly. Or you could fish for someone from this site and hope for the best. Maybe summit chaser? Baker is a very kind mtn. She doesn't seem to smack down inexperience like rainier. It is surprising that more people don't have accidents on baker.

Found a single rock shoe up on snag buttress. PM me if you lost one up there.

that thing is scary beyond belief. Helmets? nah..no need (unless solid like index. nothing falls at index) belay device? just wrap the rope around a bush (actually they said tree) harness? heck just use that crap from the construction site (from photo) after that three I gave up on the rest of the reading. Lawsuit waiting to happen. thanks Bill. Now i know were all the yahoo crazy ideas come from.

I just took a sick big dump. I need a consult from Ivan on how to write an literate TR on this.

reserve spot early and have a backup plan if the weather is fowl. Late june is fairly good but it is a long flight from ohio. You should ask for good alternatives here too. I'll throw out one. esmeralda basin below ingals peak is very nice. sorry about mr summitchasingcjb-poopyhead.