genepires

It is a sad rainy day when we are arguing the merits of metals, all if which work well. We should all be out sending. How come the weather is so much better than the forcast?

saw this on craigs list and thought maybe somebody could use a ice tool deal. the posting is at http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/spo/1554421410.html Black Diamond X-15 ice tool w/ adze less than 200ft on it. 90$ Charlet Moser Pulsar ice tool w/ hammer less than 200 ft. also. 90$ fine tools but i'm getting too old for this, any one up for some snowshoeing? i will also be posting some other gear, screws,beniers, a classic Gregeroy I. F. pack and some clothes ect. serious cash inquiries can call me @ 425-512-9323 thanks Craig

forgot to name the denali route. I will go if you are doing the chek direct or the wall of destruction and you lead everything. And carry my lunches. and massage my feet. and guide me.

whatever my partner is carrying.

The way you sleep should be a factor in which design you buy. I think most bivies are made for people who sleep on their back. Sleeping bags are also designed for these people. The openings for bivies are usually straight up and hoops keep the fabric off the face if laying down on the back. People who sleep on thier stomach usually have a layer of epic or goretex smack in their face and that sucks. OR bivies are the only one that I know of that has the zipper go around the outside and that allows a stomach sleeper to open the part the you are facing. Even in the rain, you can make a little "awning" with the fabric so your breath won't build up moisture inside. Now if they could only make a vent for the farts.

ok, I'll just throw them away. not. don't you already own a dozen pairs of everything?

I never had a doubt as to their design, just my ability to put it back together properly after messing with it and putting it back on backwards. thanks, now i gotta change it back to the way it was. good fun for a rainy weekend.

I think most people like new policy, or rather lack of policy. (Their rules are just common sense stuff that we should abide by anyway.) Even if it means that once in a while, it is packed with hordes of people. Luckily that happens when it is better to go elsewhere anyway. But then I live in monroe and if I lived in anacortes I may have a different opinion. Maybe not. I also thank the city of anacortes for a reasonable decision, which rarely happens anymore.

So I got a dartwin some three or four years ago and I was wondering about something with it. It has two frontpoints and one is longer than the other. Intuition would say that I want the longer point to be the inside point. But according to the photo from their website, it looks like the longer point is on the outside of the boot. Being a rule abiding citizen, I have always worn it that way. But it just doesn't seem right. Maybe my old school ways can't see the logic behind it. So my question is to you masters of ice is, -Should I arrange my crampons with the larger point inside or out? -Is there a reason for this outside arrangement? -PLus the way the base plate is all wierd, does that matter for usage as far as which is left and right boot? Probably not. -Why do I care if the petzl police revoke my crampon license for improper use? thanks for your thoughtful and/or smart ass answers. gene

sweet. it has got to be really hooked out now. time for me to get on it.

50 people! there isn't enough parking for 20 people up there. the plan seems reasonable though, unless I got 50 friends who want to climb.

a four season tent is needed for certain climbs at certain times. Maybe sometimes in summer. Maybe not in winter. It depends. What are you wanting to do? If you are going to be waiting out a Nasty storm (above treeline) in summer or winter to climb your goal, you will need a 4 season tent. If winds are high, a 4 season tent has more anchoring points. If you are only going to climb in good weather (and bail if the weather turns), then a 3 season is fine. If you live in NJ, a walmart pup tent is fine.

I have a old pair of scarpa freneys which have done lots of time on ice and trails and done really well for both. It is the old blue one which is not made anymore. But I would encourage you to check out their line. I never could do lots of miles in my nepal tops but that was because it was sized a bit too small and the shape is a bit off for my feet. Like Dane says, get what fits your feet.

nice job. sounds cold. The gib wall seems a little thin for usual conditions.

while I am no ice or mixed master, that route looks like most stanley headwall routes from the photo. wi7, especially wi7+, seems like a severe overgrade. Will be interesting to see what future ascents call it. (won't be me) Come on hardcore canucks!

Cool. Get ready for some big days as some of those routes mentioned are way back in there. (redoubt, fury and buckner) For easier access and IMO better alpine ice, look up Mt Matier in the coast range book. British columbia stuff and just a couple hours north of vancouver. For that matter, go to Banff park in alberta for really good alpine ice. Athabasca, adromeda (both are day trips) and mt Fay (with a hut nearby) are really good. You could throw in some good alpine rock days and some craggin in for some good ole varied fun. I don't know what AI rating really mean. What is the difference between ai2 and ai3. I got a feel that ai4 is really scary and ai5 is a...well we don't need to go there.

Hey Sandy, it sounds like your guide/instructor was teaching you how to get setup to catch a fall from another rope team member and not how to arrest your own fall. (they are two different beasts) Is that correct?

If for some really strange reason, you have crampons on while on sloppy snow, then the crampons won't be a problem (maybe) as they will (maybe) slice through the snow. But if it is sloppy, then the knees should work OK also without the hazard. Heck, if it is sloppy snow, you could spread out in a snow angel and stop pretty quick. I am a big fan of the 1 axe and 1 pole method of travel and observing rule #1. Unfortunately many have not.

If I remember right (and it was a long time ago) the NW couloir on the middle teton wasn't that bad. Seems like it was wi2 for a short bit or you could walk around and then cruise of via the snow gulley. Not sure if you are preparing for that or using that as a reference for routes over here. If using the middle as a reference for over here, then the n ridge of baker is going to be a bigger and harder trip. More serious glacier travel, longer steep snow, more commitment value but with same amount of ice climbing probably. If you are looking for things similair to the middle then Mt Maude would be a good one.

jesus christ pose - sound garden songs for the deaf album - queens of stone age bodies - Drowning Pool Spiral,awake, whatever -Godsmack Institutionalized - Suicidal Tendencies Down with the Sickness -Disturbed California Uber Alles Dead Kennedys loud and obnoxious, perfection

It matters how fast you are going. If you are catching your falling partner, then by all means, kick in the feet. if you are sliding slowly (relative of course) then use the feet to prevent you from getting to going too fast. if you are going fast, use the knees and pray that the runout is ok because that is where you are going. it is all about breaking your ankles. is the self arrest worth it? if you are using crampons, you really have to think about the consequences of your partner falling or your own chance of falling. Since the snow is hard, you will slide REALLY fast REALLY quick. If you are cramponing and you doubt your ability to not fall over, then you need a running belay or standard belay.

While the list of "mixed crags" looks complete, the reality of it is you could go mostly anywhere in snoq pass and find a place to scratch your tools up on. Walk around (hopefully not near somebodies residence) find a rocky outcrop and throw a TR on it. PLenty of trees around. Not really leadable, or include any ice, but you could "mixed" climb for a long time. (actually I suppose it would be called rock climbing with ice gear) Or even road cuts on untraveled roads like logging roads. (keep belayers far away from cliff base. loose rock) BTW. I have not done any of this. Just a thought.

thanks! good info and will use. That hyak option sounds good. gene

evolution is dead.

I think I just pooped myself. It was either the muzak or the scary terrain.