genepires

Hey Sandy, it sounds like your guide/instructor was teaching you how to get setup to catch a fall from another rope team member and not how to arrest your own fall. (they are two different beasts) Is that correct?

If for some really strange reason, you have crampons on while on sloppy snow, then the crampons won't be a problem (maybe) as they will (maybe) slice through the snow. But if it is sloppy, then the knees should work OK also without the hazard. Heck, if it is sloppy snow, you could spread out in a snow angel and stop pretty quick. I am a big fan of the 1 axe and 1 pole method of travel and observing rule #1. Unfortunately many have not.

If I remember right (and it was a long time ago) the NW couloir on the middle teton wasn't that bad. Seems like it was wi2 for a short bit or you could walk around and then cruise of via the snow gulley. Not sure if you are preparing for that or using that as a reference for routes over here. If using the middle as a reference for over here, then the n ridge of baker is going to be a bigger and harder trip. More serious glacier travel, longer steep snow, more commitment value but with same amount of ice climbing probably. If you are looking for things similair to the middle then Mt Maude would be a good one.

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It matters how fast you are going. If you are catching your falling partner, then by all means, kick in the feet. if you are sliding slowly (relative of course) then use the feet to prevent you from getting to going too fast. if you are going fast, use the knees and pray that the runout is ok because that is where you are going. it is all about breaking your ankles. is the self arrest worth it? if you are using crampons, you really have to think about the consequences of your partner falling or your own chance of falling. Since the snow is hard, you will slide REALLY fast REALLY quick. If you are cramponing and you doubt your ability to not fall over, then you need a running belay or standard belay.

While the list of "mixed crags" looks complete, the reality of it is you could go mostly anywhere in snoq pass and find a place to scratch your tools up on. Walk around (hopefully not near somebodies residence) find a rocky outcrop and throw a TR on it. PLenty of trees around. Not really leadable, or include any ice, but you could "mixed" climb for a long time. (actually I suppose it would be called rock climbing with ice gear) Or even road cuts on untraveled roads like logging roads. (keep belayers far away from cliff base. loose rock) BTW. I have not done any of this. Just a thought.

thanks! good info and will use. That hyak option sounds good. gene

evolution is dead.

I think I just pooped myself. It was either the muzak or the scary terrain.

the forcast from noaa calls for high of 30 degrees at stevens at 4000ft. Prolly rain or at least sloppy snow and rain at snoq for sure. Was raining at snoq yesterday. stevens forcast http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=47.7817890857131&lon=-121.06109619140625&site=otx&smap=1&marine=0&unit=0&lg=en AND it doesn't look good for the rest of the week.

huh Matt, you pose a hard philo question. We use plastic kiddie "sleds" on denali. I think we call the plastic things sleds because of all our pow pow in which steel runner sleds wouldn't work, like you said. It is a geographic use thing. I can think of a few places that I have seen people (usually LOTS) at: The deer creek road TH at the end gate on the mtn loop hwy, big four side. Paradise on rainier. picture lake near baker ski area. Thee has got to be some good places around that aren't mobbed with people yet still accessible. It seems like the road between i90 and alpental is completly fine but are unable to park anywhere.

wow that looks like a real good climb now. I have never been on it when it was that good, usually horrible. Are there bolts on top? (according to your photo)

the classic leashless tool would be less than ideal for "normal" alpine climbs. Maybe hardman routes (very little usual snow climbing) would be good with leashless but a normal shaft (slight bend near the top and a fairly straight bottom half of shaft) would be better for more recreational alpine climbing. Just my opinion though. You can usually get a small grip added to make even those kinds of tools leashless.

they are too busy doing FA's right now, except for Darrin who is changing a poopy diaper.

I climber the mighty North face of the thumbtack once. The highlight of that winter for me.

Going saturday for some kiddie sledding just off hwy 2. Kinda at a loss of where though. Any ideas? Hopefully close to a road with a small kid sized hill and reasonable parking. possibilities? north side of stevens pass proper? maybe near the employee housing just east of the pass? If you can think of other cool places to go on different roads, then it would be helpful for other trips. thanks for the help gene

I think there is only one gym jones gym. Mtn athlete has two gyms. (boulder and jackson) I don't think seattle has a concentrated enough population for either of them. How many hardman live within reasonable driving to one of their gyms to make it work? Too many latte drinking slobs around here.

good for you losing the weight. 10% is alot. Keep it up. Michael Pollen (sp?) wrote a sweet book that has helped me with eating choices. His 3 rules that are in latons rules above. 1-eat food (means not junk or processed) 2-not too much 3-mostly plants If I could obey rule 3 better.

how are you going to use the bands to help? usually the bands are used for obliques to shoulder stuff. Just curious. I have the iron woody bands (the first three sizes) and like them alot. I use them for lots of things. The iron woody were the most reasonable prices. I think the jumpstretch ones are the more popular in the "proffesional" community.

for me it's always (and I mean always) a good friend whom I trust, who convinces me it is a good idea. Then I get really scared, tired, beat up but in the end, it is always worth it. I probably wouldn't seek it out on my own though. btw Wayne, what is that burly mountain? DOn't worry I won't scoop it unless Darrin talks me into it.

how could any crossfitter gain weight when they are puking all the time? (not a serious question, so please, no answer or defense is required. But if you feel like it.......) While the crossfit may not be a asset to elite climbers, I would have to say that regular exercise is good for 99% of americans and climbers alike. And crossfit seems like a good scheduled way to get your ass beat up and get in shape. Which has got to help with climbing in general, minus the puking.

The real question is puking necessary for real effort? I would think that passing out is an obvious undesirable habit wherever and whenever. it is interesting you mention gym jones. I doubt that much puking goes on there (in the gym but maybe across the street at a pub) at either gym jones or mtn athlete. The "puking" thing is limited to crossfit so I bet it is a "click'ish thing and of no real value. If not a detriment to health. Definately builds character and mental strength though.

Glad to hear that everyone is back OK. Must have been real cold waiting on the shore. Years from now, it will be a real cool story to amuse people in a bar.

sounds fun. not

they are all sweet! Was it just the deevolve that got the lawsuit? If so, why not make the rest of them?