willstrickland

Alright, I'm calling a pub club for Thurs May 9th. Who's up for it? Where should we have it? No "change the date" please, we're trying to make it happen when TG is in town and I'd like to drink with you fools before I head for the valley the following week.

quote: Originally posted by texplorer: Three of us scored 4 cams, a keyhole hanger, a low-ball and several nuts and biners from the base of the trade routes there in a couple of hours. Its good to be a pirate ARRRRRR!!!! Werd Tex! Secrets of the booty trade: ALWAYS wear a helmet while scoping for ground score...how do you think that shit ends up at the base? Look up in the trees...found more than one cam snagged in the tree limbs at Church Bowl. Climb Nutcracker or Arches after a thunderstorm. Two nut tools do wonders when trying to clean stuck gear. Look for the newbies with a shiny new rack...follow them up something (and wear a helmet!) they're bound to leave something. The flake before the 5.4 ramp on Nutcracker eats .75 camalots for lunch...extracted two in two trips..and gave them back to their owners at the top both times. And the real scoop on booty in the valley: Curry Village Pizza deck in the afternoon...lots of booty around there.

I've tried 2, 3, and 4. I typically use 4, BUT I also use opposed steps rather than ladders. Being able to stem in the aiders seems to help me quite often. If I were going the two aider route, I'd opt for the ladder style so you could get both feet in the same step if need be. For hooks, I carry 3 cam hooks (1 of each size), a talon, cliffhanger, 3" hook, and leeper pointed. Woe to the dude on a bathook ladder with only a talon. CMI? Don't know what you mean. I've used Petzl and Jumar, prefer the Petzl.

quote: Originally posted by Lambone: I can't believe you demand respect from a generation that you mock and scoff at... He's got a point there Dwayner. I was taught at a very early age that you command respect by giving respect. I must admit, I'm a bit surprised at late with your seemingly fragile ego...not trying to flame you here, you just seem to be "in a delicate way" the last couple of months.

My choices for rock: 1. Carhardtt double knee (logger) pants...$40 They stand up to J-tree rock and keep on keepin on 2. Dickies...usually the light grey color.$16. Cotton poly blend, they have some stretch and cut slim not baggy, and they're tough. I cut 'em off about mid calf so they'll just cover the knees when chimneying. 3. Std military BDU pants cut off mid-calf. These are too expensive now though...$30.

"Ain't found a way to kill me yet Eyes burn with stinging sweat Seems every path leads me to nowhere..." -AIC

quote: Originally posted by Dan Larson: my partner told me he smelt weed after midnight which one of you losers was up there and didn't say hi You must have been getting wind out of the south.

Details Larson, details. I'm not saying I haven't done it, but I don't think it's likely. Go ahead and show me a quote of me touting my own climbing skills. Yes, that's a challenge. Maybe you win, maybe I win, but it's certainly not something I do alot and/or intentionally. Show me the benjamins ya slog king.

$20 for the 24 count box at Performance here's the link GU

OK forgive my ignorance, but I don't pay attention to the rotation up there because I'm down here. Planning on making a trip to Index and trying to stay around for the pubclub the following Tues. So...where will it be (not bar, but Sea,Tac,Eastside?) on May 7 and May 14?

Bike shops usually have the deals. I get mine at Performance, ran a big sale on cytomax and GU around the holidays...cytomax was halfprice or something and GU was quite a bit cheaper than anywhere else I found.

Guitarwizard...puhleez. In my experience as a guitar player, the ones who tout theirown skills are usually the biggest wanker, trite lick playin' wannabes out there. So welcome "wizard" I bet you couldn't play your way out of a wet paper bag...go listen to some bluegrass or jazz and bow your head you lame bastard. When you learn how to integrate chord melody solos into a composition, you give me a call 'kay? Love ya babe...mean it!

Raustin, if you only knew... I'll say straight away that the NC climbing scene is quite possibly the BOLDEST in the country, or at least it used to be. I'm not an NC local, but those cats Doc Bayne, et al were the definition of hardman. They've managed to keep it quiet over there, and the locals are grateful. Granted, there isn't the mountaineering there that other places have, but for pure rock stuff NC is the shiznit. No California or Utah, but there's nothing in the world like Cali and Utah (spare me the Himalaya stuff, I like climbing in nice weather). Bullet hard quartzite? Check. Slabby runout granite? Check. Steep flint hard sandstone? Check. Big wall style aid routes? You bet. Gneiss? Check! Ridiculously hard bouldering? Check! Jonny, a fresh transplant to NC, I think can testify that it's way better than he expected. Then in the distance it would take you to drive from Seattle to Bellingham, you could be pulling on the hardest, steepest sandstone you can imagine in Southeast TN and NW GA. Just ask Mikeadam about the bouldering in north GA, and that place is only the tip of the freakin iceberg..I know of a few places that blow it away. Love caving? The single best concetration of caves in the country are right there. Trout fishing? Check! Don't get me wrong here, I love the NW and am sad to leave, I love Utah and if we could oust the power structures there I would settle there without hesitation, but for the east coast, western NC is amazing. Only thing that comes close is the Cannon/Cathedral/Lake Willoughby areas in VT/NH.

One more item. You folks know that the Oregon legislature tried to get the feds to abolish fee demo in 2001 right? Check out this link for more Oregon legislature anti fee-demo

Hey folks.. Boston Tea Party ring a bell? I've received three of these things and not paid. Received one letter demanding payment, called the district and explained that I would not be paying it, that I oppose fee demo, and that I feel that as long as the feds use the number of passes bought as "evidence supporting people's willingness to pay" or "people's support of the program" I would never pay. I went on to tell the young lady that the only way I was able to express disapproval of the program was non-compliance. She said she sympathized and realistically I shouldn't worry about it. These all occured near Cougar, while mtn biking. One other occasion I returned to find a ranger waiting, when questioned about not having a pass, I again explained my feelings, told him to write the ticket if he needed to, but to show my disapproval of the program I would engage in civil disobedience by refusing to pay the fine. He declined to write the ticket. I have not received a summons, but I do believe I would go to court and fight it (with the help of some action groups' lawyers of course, there are plenty of organizations who would provide legal counsel I'm sure).

Earplugs...how the hell do your hear your alarm?

As a bolt-chopper myself I'll throw out a thought: Even if we have a forum, make a list, come to some mutually agreed upon list of restoration projects....we, the ccdotcom'ers still are only a fraction of the climbers. This has been stated before in threads like "climbing community" etc. While on a personal level I would like to see all routes that have been bastardized restored, I am only one climber and everyone has an equal ownership of our public lands/resources. I don't care for pussyfoot tactics, and while I sympathize with Erik's view, I say stand proud if your going to chop something. People WILL find out who did it eventually, and if you're secrective about it, it makes you look like a sneaky-assed weasel. We NEED people like Retro to anchor the "chop it" end of the spectrum just like we need someone on the "bolt it" side so that the vast majority in the middle will have the benefit of considering the pros/cons of situation through the debates that result from these viewpoints. This (my post) is getting long-winded even for my liking, but my main point is we need to involve the larger climbing community (oxymoron or not) outside cc in these issues, if for nothing else than the chance to educate the generation that started climbing after the 80's bolt revolution. Also to say "here's what's acceptable to the trad-dads and here's what will get chopped" FWIW, - Will

Now that you mention it trask, living in the van. Got hassled by the man last night...some dumb-shit janitor called the pigs when I drove into our gated/locked parking lot at work last night to crash. I used my mag-card on the gate, and the dumb shit still called the cops. I'm almost asleep, stoned, and this 1,000,000 candlepower spotlight comes shining in my window, then I hear a dog barking..."Awww shit, not the freaking drug dog!" Cops beat on the side, I come out show them DL, work ID, give them some BS story about my girlfriend booting me out of the house...one cop says "looks like you've been spending more than one night in here" to which I give the 'ol "well you see I do quite a bit of rock and mtn climbing and I spend alot of weekends camping in this rig, so I've got it all set-up" Other cop goes "yeah, see he's got those funny shoes" pointing to the two pairs of rock shoes on the floor of the van. We talk climbing for 5 minutes and they split saying as long I'm not an intruder the crashing in the lot is between me and my employer...Now can I get some sleep?

quote: Originally posted by halfpint: pull the bolts on retrobolted climbs- but first, make sure that the first ascentionist wasn't agreeable to the retro bolting. top-ropes do not count as lesitimate ascents, as far as i'm concerned. but people do need to be able to put up new lines /FoghornLeghorn mode=on/ Well damn, I say damn...that boy's about as sharp as a bowling ball. Sit down and listen up boy.../FoghornLeghorn mode=off Look halfpint, there is NO shortage of first ascents just waiting for someone to step-up. All over WA, OR, BC are plenty of untouched lines, but they usually don't have a trail to the base, aren't 5 minutes from the road, and probably won't get your name in a guidebook. And I mean independent lines...not some "oh you can't use the crack on the other route that's off... New lines at a "climbed out" area usually involved two scenarios: 1. A bold, runout, superhigh difficulty independent line that has only been recently climbed because of advances in abilities and gear 2. A squeeze job that's probably been TR'ed 20 years ago by some guy in EBs and cutoff Levis. Gets put up because someone wants A) an ego boost B) something new to play on C)something to help disperse the crowds If you've climbed everything at the area that you want to climb, then start climbing somewhere else. If it's too crowded...start climbing somewhere else. If your ego needs inflation that badly go see a shrink cause you got problems. As you can tell from my "help me plan the summer" post, I don't know the NW for shit. Still, I can pick up a guidebook and read the page that says, and I quote: "The crag is 200ft at the highest and separated into large buttressed sections of granite-like quality rock along the slopes of this majestically scenic sub-alpine valley. The climbs at present range from 5.8 to 5.12, but virtually limitless route possibilities exist on this basalt crag"

Totally depends on what you plan on climbing. There have been extensive discussions herfe concerining std mountaineering axes and the majority opinion by far favors either the Grivel Air-Tech Racing Axe or the BD Raven. There are a few threads on those, do a search for the links. For water ice, or alpine ice, it's going to be a very personal decision. Different sized hands, etc will influence your choice. How much plunging in snow you plan to do will influence your choice, costs will affect your choice (or if not, wanna take me out ice climbing? I need some new tools, you don't mind if I borrow yours do you?). You can often demo tools/cramps at ice fests, or when the manufacturers reps come around for demo days. Best thing is to figure out what you'll use it for, then go try all your friends' different gear or get to a demo. Do at least a pitch or two with every tool you can get ahold of. Swinging them in the store is in no way a substitute for using them in the real.

Alright the deal: Will be leaving Yos sometime after the harsh heat descends...mid July or therabouts. PLanning on heading to Index, L-worth, N Cascades, Colchuck Lake area, and Squish. Mainly looking to do superclassic stuff at all grades (well, not .14 but say up to about .12). Got the Cascade Select...the seasons/when to climb don't do me much good form that book. With bird closures etc, I need you guys/gals input. Interested in doing stuff like N Ridge Stuart, ROTC, Outerspace, W Face of Colchuck B-rock, Girth Pillar, Grand Wall, etc. Some alpine ice stuff would be cool too. Obviously looking to maximize our climbing while minimizing approach times etc, but we're not too averse to long approaches. We'd like to get a couple of climbs out of the long approaches anyway. So you could help me by recommending stellar routes, and a rough agenda...like do I hit Squish first and then work down through WA to miss nesting closures, or hit some stuff going up and others going back? The bird closures, and the bridge stuff going on, as well as my non-NW local expereince have me at a loss. Thanks in advance.

Werd! I hit 900 today...think I'll make 1000 before I split? Now out of those 900 how many were worthwhile? Maybe 6...7 tops.

Just for clarity: The season pass is $15, a day pass is uhhh, well, uhhh I just paid one two weeks ago...$4? $6? something like that. Where did I put the bong? Geez, I amaze myself sometimes.

Thanks Scott, that's the kind of stuff I'm looking for...3 climbs, 1 approach, all classic.

Yeah, I dig where you guys are comin' from, but remember...I've never done those classic routes and while FAs are great, the value-for-time factor puts my interests in the classics. Isn't there an alternate way to get into the Colchuck area? Does that bridge crap mean that I need to take the snow creek wall, Stuart, and the rest off my list as well?