willstrickland

Guitarwizard...puhleez. In my experience as a guitar player, the ones who tout theirown skills are usually the biggest wanker, trite lick playin' wannabes out there. So welcome "wizard" I bet you couldn't play your way out of a wet paper bag...go listen to some bluegrass or jazz and bow your head you lame bastard. When you learn how to integrate chord melody solos into a composition, you give me a call 'kay? Love ya babe...mean it!

Raustin, if you only knew... I'll say straight away that the NC climbing scene is quite possibly the BOLDEST in the country, or at least it used to be. I'm not an NC local, but those cats Doc Bayne, et al were the definition of hardman. They've managed to keep it quiet over there, and the locals are grateful. Granted, there isn't the mountaineering there that other places have, but for pure rock stuff NC is the shiznit. No California or Utah, but there's nothing in the world like Cali and Utah (spare me the Himalaya stuff, I like climbing in nice weather). Bullet hard quartzite? Check. Slabby runout granite? Check. Steep flint hard sandstone? Check. Big wall style aid routes? You bet. Gneiss? Check! Ridiculously hard bouldering? Check! Jonny, a fresh transplant to NC, I think can testify that it's way better than he expected. Then in the distance it would take you to drive from Seattle to Bellingham, you could be pulling on the hardest, steepest sandstone you can imagine in Southeast TN and NW GA. Just ask Mikeadam about the bouldering in north GA, and that place is only the tip of the freakin iceberg..I know of a few places that blow it away. Love caving? The single best concetration of caves in the country are right there. Trout fishing? Check! Don't get me wrong here, I love the NW and am sad to leave, I love Utah and if we could oust the power structures there I would settle there without hesitation, but for the east coast, western NC is amazing. Only thing that comes close is the Cannon/Cathedral/Lake Willoughby areas in VT/NH.

One more item. You folks know that the Oregon legislature tried to get the feds to abolish fee demo in 2001 right? Check out this link for more Oregon legislature anti fee-demo

Hey folks.. Boston Tea Party ring a bell? I've received three of these things and not paid. Received one letter demanding payment, called the district and explained that I would not be paying it, that I oppose fee demo, and that I feel that as long as the feds use the number of passes bought as "evidence supporting people's willingness to pay" or "people's support of the program" I would never pay. I went on to tell the young lady that the only way I was able to express disapproval of the program was non-compliance. She said she sympathized and realistically I shouldn't worry about it. These all occured near Cougar, while mtn biking. One other occasion I returned to find a ranger waiting, when questioned about not having a pass, I again explained my feelings, told him to write the ticket if he needed to, but to show my disapproval of the program I would engage in civil disobedience by refusing to pay the fine. He declined to write the ticket. I have not received a summons, but I do believe I would go to court and fight it (with the help of some action groups' lawyers of course, there are plenty of organizations who would provide legal counsel I'm sure).

Earplugs...how the hell do your hear your alarm?

As a bolt-chopper myself I'll throw out a thought: Even if we have a forum, make a list, come to some mutually agreed upon list of restoration projects....we, the ccdotcom'ers still are only a fraction of the climbers. This has been stated before in threads like "climbing community" etc. While on a personal level I would like to see all routes that have been bastardized restored, I am only one climber and everyone has an equal ownership of our public lands/resources. I don't care for pussyfoot tactics, and while I sympathize with Erik's view, I say stand proud if your going to chop something. People WILL find out who did it eventually, and if you're secrective about it, it makes you look like a sneaky-assed weasel. We NEED people like Retro to anchor the "chop it" end of the spectrum just like we need someone on the "bolt it" side so that the vast majority in the middle will have the benefit of considering the pros/cons of situation through the debates that result from these viewpoints. This (my post) is getting long-winded even for my liking, but my main point is we need to involve the larger climbing community (oxymoron or not) outside cc in these issues, if for nothing else than the chance to educate the generation that started climbing after the 80's bolt revolution. Also to say "here's what's acceptable to the trad-dads and here's what will get chopped" FWIW, - Will

Now that you mention it trask, living in the van. Got hassled by the man last night...some dumb-shit janitor called the pigs when I drove into our gated/locked parking lot at work last night to crash. I used my mag-card on the gate, and the dumb shit still called the cops. I'm almost asleep, stoned, and this 1,000,000 candlepower spotlight comes shining in my window, then I hear a dog barking..."Awww shit, not the freaking drug dog!" Cops beat on the side, I come out show them DL, work ID, give them some BS story about my girlfriend booting me out of the house...one cop says "looks like you've been spending more than one night in here" to which I give the 'ol "well you see I do quite a bit of rock and mtn climbing and I spend alot of weekends camping in this rig, so I've got it all set-up" Other cop goes "yeah, see he's got those funny shoes" pointing to the two pairs of rock shoes on the floor of the van. We talk climbing for 5 minutes and they split saying as long I'm not an intruder the crashing in the lot is between me and my employer...Now can I get some sleep?

quote: Originally posted by halfpint: pull the bolts on retrobolted climbs- but first, make sure that the first ascentionist wasn't agreeable to the retro bolting. top-ropes do not count as lesitimate ascents, as far as i'm concerned. but people do need to be able to put up new lines /FoghornLeghorn mode=on/ Well damn, I say damn...that boy's about as sharp as a bowling ball. Sit down and listen up boy.../FoghornLeghorn mode=off Look halfpint, there is NO shortage of first ascents just waiting for someone to step-up. All over WA, OR, BC are plenty of untouched lines, but they usually don't have a trail to the base, aren't 5 minutes from the road, and probably won't get your name in a guidebook. And I mean independent lines...not some "oh you can't use the crack on the other route that's off... New lines at a "climbed out" area usually involved two scenarios: 1. A bold, runout, superhigh difficulty independent line that has only been recently climbed because of advances in abilities and gear 2. A squeeze job that's probably been TR'ed 20 years ago by some guy in EBs and cutoff Levis. Gets put up because someone wants A) an ego boost B) something new to play on C)something to help disperse the crowds If you've climbed everything at the area that you want to climb, then start climbing somewhere else. If it's too crowded...start climbing somewhere else. If your ego needs inflation that badly go see a shrink cause you got problems. As you can tell from my "help me plan the summer" post, I don't know the NW for shit. Still, I can pick up a guidebook and read the page that says, and I quote: "The crag is 200ft at the highest and separated into large buttressed sections of granite-like quality rock along the slopes of this majestically scenic sub-alpine valley. The climbs at present range from 5.8 to 5.12, but virtually limitless route possibilities exist on this basalt crag"

Totally depends on what you plan on climbing. There have been extensive discussions herfe concerining std mountaineering axes and the majority opinion by far favors either the Grivel Air-Tech Racing Axe or the BD Raven. There are a few threads on those, do a search for the links. For water ice, or alpine ice, it's going to be a very personal decision. Different sized hands, etc will influence your choice. How much plunging in snow you plan to do will influence your choice, costs will affect your choice (or if not, wanna take me out ice climbing? I need some new tools, you don't mind if I borrow yours do you?). You can often demo tools/cramps at ice fests, or when the manufacturers reps come around for demo days. Best thing is to figure out what you'll use it for, then go try all your friends' different gear or get to a demo. Do at least a pitch or two with every tool you can get ahold of. Swinging them in the store is in no way a substitute for using them in the real.

Alright the deal: Will be leaving Yos sometime after the harsh heat descends...mid July or therabouts. PLanning on heading to Index, L-worth, N Cascades, Colchuck Lake area, and Squish. Mainly looking to do superclassic stuff at all grades (well, not .14 but say up to about .12). Got the Cascade Select...the seasons/when to climb don't do me much good form that book. With bird closures etc, I need you guys/gals input. Interested in doing stuff like N Ridge Stuart, ROTC, Outerspace, W Face of Colchuck B-rock, Girth Pillar, Grand Wall, etc. Some alpine ice stuff would be cool too. Obviously looking to maximize our climbing while minimizing approach times etc, but we're not too averse to long approaches. We'd like to get a couple of climbs out of the long approaches anyway. So you could help me by recommending stellar routes, and a rough agenda...like do I hit Squish first and then work down through WA to miss nesting closures, or hit some stuff going up and others going back? The bird closures, and the bridge stuff going on, as well as my non-NW local expereince have me at a loss. Thanks in advance.

Werd! I hit 900 today...think I'll make 1000 before I split? Now out of those 900 how many were worthwhile? Maybe 6...7 tops.

Just for clarity: The season pass is $15, a day pass is uhhh, well, uhhh I just paid one two weeks ago...$4? $6? something like that. Where did I put the bong? Geez, I amaze myself sometimes.

Thanks Scott, that's the kind of stuff I'm looking for...3 climbs, 1 approach, all classic.

Yeah, I dig where you guys are comin' from, but remember...I've never done those classic routes and while FAs are great, the value-for-time factor puts my interests in the classics. Isn't there an alternate way to get into the Colchuck area? Does that bridge crap mean that I need to take the snow creek wall, Stuart, and the rest off my list as well?

Yeah, that's the one where the KTK stands in a circle with you in the middle, rotates you and hammers on your face right? "Keep spinning him, I haven't got a chance to smash his melon yet!"

Cubicle-farm finally gettin' to ya TimL? getting wistful over your 10 months off? Oh, I see you're in advertising...that explains alot. Don't need no haters... [ 04-17-2002, 01:07 PM: Message edited by: willstrickland ]

quote: Originally posted by pope: how to remove really stubborn half-inch bolts (I assume they're stubborn, but I don't have much experience), What do you say? Goddamn right they're stubborn Pope...Also, you might want to upgrade from the 3-footer. While they work reasonably well with 3/8" (even then the proper tap-while-prying cycling technique is needed), you'll sometimes find yourself hanging from the end of the bar just bouncing, or bracing a foot ABOVE the bolt and one below and yarding for all you've got. Gives you a decent workout though...

Rod, you're a loss leader? Here I was thinking you were a choss leader... Certainly makes sense from a logic/retail standpoint. I wonder if they take into account, or even think about the "fashion" issue in hardware? EX: TNF/Marmot/etc put out new colors or add a zipper or something every year, consequently they blow-out the old models and that margin goes all to hell. Climbing hardwear, and even some soft goods like cordage and webbing, doesn't change too much. Granted, things like ice tools change fairly often, but what I see as the core...cams, nuts, biners, ropes, harnesses, shoes, belay devices...those stay more or less the same. At least the changes are more on a 5 year basis rather than annually. Seems that the stability would make up for the lower margin.

Well E, you might check into the environmental practices of the Mitsubishi Corp before you cheer for 'em. I have (on the advice of a friend) and it's pretty shocking what they participate in and/or support.

Erik, give back the knit rasta hat, you don't need it to cover the rollers in your hair at a bivy, only at home ok? OHHH! THAT bivouac kit, umm nevermind

Cleeshter, F350 would have the Powerstroke, not the Cummins...that'd be Dodge, and if you need to fabricate another penis-envy truck story know that Chevy now has a diesel as well...made by Detroit Diesel I believe...Erik? Re: Hill, I read her new biography book last night at B&N (they fuckin hate me there now BTW)...and it sucks. Mildly entertaining at times, and has one particularly cool pic of her doing the "houdini sequence" on the Nose, but other than that, pretty dry.

If he were visiting from somewhere, I'd say "take the snowshoes and decide when you get there". But a local...if it's bad enough that you need shoes, the climbing is really gonna suck and why torture yourself on some dog route when you could just come back when conditions are better. The SS route has a long season by snow-climb standards. I don't question either of you, Rob has obviously done a shitload more on that mountain than I ever will, and I agree with the "you won't need them sentiment" but let's keep a little perspective ehh?

Right-on man, we'll do that. Best part of that whole scenario...Jamie's a great partner. Worst...Mike spent months working in Amsterdam and the punter doesn't even puff the herb. Now that's tragic.

Yeah that's him, from Fredricksburg, VA originally. I was the guy he was supposed to be meeting in Seattle to climb with for a while and then he landed that Amsterdam gig while I was in the valley. I got all the way to Tacoma before I got the news. That was ok though because as you know also on that course was a kid named Jamie Harris...young long haired kid also from the DC metro/VA area...you remember him? Well he and I headed to the valley together and he's been one of the best partners I've ever had. I pushed him from leading 5.8 to leading .10a in a 3 week period. And, finally, he's my partner for the valley and more starting in about a month. We'll be back up this way when the heat hits the valley...

Ooops, forgot to mention...this study will solicit responses from your S.O. as well as yourself. And if you're a swingin' single, he wants your info as well so go ahead and complete it.