willstrickland

Rod, Spectra fabric, no metal for the frame, the weights listed are for the main bag/frame/belt only...basically the lightest way you could configure the pack...i.e. all the add-on pockets, top-lid, etc are removed. The spectra is really thin and light, and it's the reason those things are white...the single worst color you could ask for in an alpine pack, because they can't dye the stuff. I think they even use a kevlar thread to stitch the thing together. Although the Cloud is light, I've got an idea for an even lighter pack that is WPB, cheap, etc. Thinking of pursuing it into the design phase anyway.

quote: Originally posted by Dru: Hey what the hell is the name of the Fat Albert character with the toque pulled way down over his face with the eye holes?? Mushmouth

quote: Originally posted by Dru: So, did he do any "Rockit" era scratching, or "Dis is da Drum" era mini-Moog noodling and wack rhyming, or was it just boring piano pieces? Maybe some Headhunters/Thrust era straight FUNKIN SHIT UP? Or perhaps some Mwandishi era Fat Albert funk? I mean you did know that Herbie (not Herby) did the music for the Fat Albert right?

Or how 'bout this one Dru, I'm sure you'd appreciate this. Two words, two biners...Garda hitch

Well so much for that, but I figure I'm doing pretty good just getting one of the protagonists , the year, and the route name right. Alpine climbing isn't exactly the most popular pursuit growing up in Jawja ya know?! But now sitting on the porch of the trailer, next to the broken washing machine, drinking Bud in a can with a shotgun across your lap and watching the Talladega 500 on the black and white...that's a more common pursuit.

Yup, Porter also put up New Dawn solo in '72. No doubt Fowler is a badass too, wasn't he on the FA of Infinite Spur with Kennedy back in '77? Here's a "less known" hardman for ya: Charles Cole. Founder of Five-Ten, he put up Jolly Rodger, and the Real Nose with Steve Grossman and soloed the FAs of Space and False Shield. Those were A5, A4, A4+, and A4 when they went up respectively.

quote: Originally posted by none: Dru, What's the absolute simplest way to mind the prussick knot at the master point of the rescue, with the least effort and a minimum of gear? Just wonderin', dude. Well I believe, even though I am not, could not, and would not be Dru, is to use the "never mind" method. That is, never mind using a fucking ratchet prussick, use your wall hauler instead...pulley, prussik, all in one, no minding...Yeah they weigh alot more, but you said easiest now didn't you mr smartass professional crevasse rescue dude? You did say that right? Just wonderin', dude.

Bow To Will Bigwall Trad Whore Big Titty Wench

quote: Originally posted by Dru: I gotta admit for a few years there I had Charlie Fowler and Charlie Porter confused in my mind. Now I have it straight. Porter is the one that's named after a beer! Hey Dru, here's a way to keep them straight: Porter was in on the first ascent of: Zodiac, The Shield, Mescalito, Tangerine Trip, Grape Race, Horse Chute, and Excaliber with a couple of those being solos. Fowler was in on the FA of....oh I don't seem to remember Fowler in on any El Cap FAs.

Easy...Incredible Handcrack @ the creek just don't go on the weekend.

Hook me up yo, I already got Smoky in my sig image see...

quote: Originally posted by Dru: And still made by slave labour, oops, prisoners. Hey, you rather have them sitting on their sore cornholed ass watching cable, or making you some cheap biners? Gives them something to do besides stabbing each other (in more ways than one). Now if they get the other half of the prison population to grow their own food, and maybe tend some farm animals, we'd have a reasonable cost associated with incarceration. Of course, if they released all the non-violent drug offenders, we'd have about half the cost burden we see now (no I'm not saying 50% of inmates are non-violent DOs)

quote: Originally posted by verticalturtle: Omega 4.0 Wire gate mucho roomminimal pesos Got these on my draws, agree with VT. I'm partial to OP gear, good designs and economical prices.

quote: Originally posted by wdietsch: willstrickland was bitchin about the Omega JC one day ice climbing, same kind of issues Yeah, gloved hand manipulation being the gripe. The rope-edge radius is actually really large, and these things are featherlight and run $4.79 for blems. They are awesome for rock routes, but too small and gate opening too small for ice. gearexpress has the blems, I've got around 15 of them on my rack.

quote: Originally posted by Dru: Routes I want to do, supposed to be real good.Crimson ChrysalisGinger CracksWild TurkeysResolution arete (goes at 5.10 with one short aid section)Epinephrine. Dru hits it pretty much on the head. Personally, I wouldn't recommend Black Orpheus to anyone, I thought it was two pitches of fun and eight pitches of shit with a pain in the ass approach/ descent (though they're not very long by RR stds) "Wild Turkeys" full name is "Dream of Wild Turkeys" out at Black Velvet, and you can do Prince of Darkness in the same area - 6 pitch sport with pitches of .10a, .10b, and .10c with the other 3 going at .9 I think. Read my TR if you want a little beta on Resolution, rad climb, but you gotta move fast (or follow with a big pack with bivy gear), and if you do it .10 A0 take some extra #3 TCU through #2 Camalot. The aid is only on pitch 7, where you climb a 6ft roof via thin hands/fingers at 11+, on aid straightforward A1 camming. Also, take 2 #4s or at least a 3.5 and 4, you'll want them. Epinephrine goes pretty fast for the length, and it's right there at Black velvet too. This is a climb with alot of chimney pitches down low and one of the few routes with lots of chimney that you might actually enjoy.

Anyone interested? The area I have in mind is currently showing temps of 22 deg at 5am. The approach is short, it's close to PDX, and will likely be maybe a few cragging pitches. These lines form from seeps, rather than a creek, so ice could be thin, non existent, and will likely have a quite a bit of snow cover. PM today before 3pm if interested. I'm thinking either day on the weekend.

quote: Originally posted by rayborbon: I think I will go out and chop your next sport project for fun. LMFAO! Classic Ray, classic!.

quote: Originally posted by allison: How about a little wit? Ok, I'll bite. Who is this Art guy, where is he having all these frenzied orgies, and just exactly what is he capable of? Your quote leaves off the end of the saying right when it's avbout to explain his "capabilities"

quote: Originally posted by Jason Martin: The summer 2001 Mountain Bulletin published by the American Mountain Guides Association has a very interesting and somewhat disturbing article about water knots and cyclic loading. Generally speaking they attempted to load and unload the knots a hundred times. With a one inch tail they were seldom able to make the hundred count. It pulled through. So what does this mean? To me, it means they need to re-evaluate their testing protocol. A 1" tail? How realistic is that? If any of you guys only put a 1 inch tail in any kind of knot you trust your life to, remind me to never tie in with you. I bet you repeat that test with 3" tails and the results are vastly different. And, as for me, I tend to evaluate a rap anchor, look at how it's rigged, inspect both the webbing itself and the knot. In my eyes, the water knot is much cleaner, and easier to inspect.

Don't worry, I'm not talking about some CC.com stuff. Here's the deal: When I go on long trips, I always meet lots of people who bestow unsolicited kindness. Whether that's loaning me an extra #5 for that burly offwidth to giving me a ride to town, it helps reaffirm that people are basically good. It's nice to have some kind of stash of gifts to hook people up with. I had a stash of those mini keychain style biners one time and would give those to people as a little "thank you" thing. I'm tossing around the idea of making up some t-shirts this time. Something along the lines of a "dirtbag climber trash" theme. So far I've only come up with these ideas: 1. A malt-liqour logo appropriation thing where the label on the can reads something about dirtbags 2. A scanned photo of some dude passed out in the dirt by his tent, surrounded by a rope and tons of empty cans and/or 40s of OE and either a caption under the photo or a large type on the back "Dirtbag Climber Trash, CE certified" Anybody got other ideas and/or mad graphic design skills? There's obviously a free shirt in it for you if I use your stuff.

Approach is around the back of Timber Lake, a rather queer traverse, but apparently attracts lots of pre-pubescents.

quote: Originally posted by W: Still, I think it might be a good idea to wear a helmet. As this is rumoured to be a "first ascent", one would assume a helmet is not necessary as long as you clean your pin in time...However, how do we know some guy wasn't up there back in '99 and left no trace? I recommend a hat at minimum, preferable by the JimmyHat company...a subsidiary of SplitHer gear.

That link is ripped off of Liquidgeneration.com, which loads really fast and has pretty cool stuff to boot

You are correct sir, the climber is Godefroy Perroux. Found this on the Simond page,pretty decent picture gallery over there Gallery