willstrickland

I hear Billy Bob Thorton and Angelina Jolie have adopted a child...you'd think Angie's brother would have knocked her up by now, why the need to adopt?

Whatever happened to that thar Hayduke feller? I hear tell he lives!

Yeah man, I get that affliction too. My method is to use the 4 breath method. I hit the ledge, count off four deep full breaths while looking at the moves and launch on the conclusion of the fourth. Seems to work for me unless I'm feeling pumped, and then I hang out until recovered.

This has been hashed out before, but since I've changed my method I'll chime in again. I used to triple the thing and then wind around it and clip the ends. That was too time consuming, but I still use that method at the end of the day because it produces a very neat package. Now I use I's method. Triple it over and tie an overhand in the middle. Quick and easy... The "stick it in pocket" method is asking to loose the cordelette. I've dropped alot of shit out of pockets and the cordelette isn't somthing I want to be dropping often.

Pop

For the record...here's 'bone's original post: goddammit erik, we can hate each other if we want to, you bastard...that's what climbers do when trapped indoors on sunny dayz...they look for excuses to get pissed. moderate this asswipe

Yeah SOC, and get them dingleberries while you're down there you know you want to

As a 5 consecutive year volunteer for the Atlanta Special Olympics, I'm with E and sayjay. You're walking on thin ice shitface

quote: Originally posted by chucK: #1: Do you climb in the real world where sometimes you cannot see all the way up the pitch? #2: Do you always make sure you walk at least one of every size up with you until you can see the anchors? #3: ??? This is exactly what I was saying but you just call it an anchor instead of a placement. Why don't you just 1. Look up at the belay spot duh? Or 2 just walk every piece up with you? [/QB] 1. Look man, you're not going to take all the uncertainty out of the climbing, otherwise what's the point? You look up and see as much as you can and try to plan accordingly. 2. No, I don't. I try to concentrate more on making the moves and getting from stance to stance or moving quickly enought to not pump out. Many people overprotect and that is why they run out of gear, not because they didn't bring enough. 3. It's nowhere near the same thing. At some point, my ass and my partner's ass are both replying on the anchor to keep us alive. Typically if I run out of the right gear, I can run it out to the anchors, or run it out to another placement of a different size. Maybe there's the chance of a death-fall from the runout, but not likely. Anchor fails, on a hanging belay, you die..period. If you end up at the end of the pitch, out of rope, and don't have enough gear...your phu-kayed...hope your downclimbing skills are good or you can hang out at that spot long enough to pull up more gear on the tag line.

What's your point jerky? I could have an avatar (i.e. RURP) that's only been used to post 100 times...BFD. You seem to forget that you're not dealing with someone incapable of rational thought. Get away from the computer? Let's see, I spent a year climbing, the next year working and spraying, and now get another 1 1/2 years climbing...you do the math. Don't even try me ya jizzface, you're out classed by a very wide margin...wider than your fat ass in fact. ...and now you know the rest of the story. Good day.

I know that over on rockclimbing.com, they take donations and list the people who've contributed much as you're suggesting. That site has a TON of users, and they don't seem to raise much money that way. I'm not saying it won't work, just that in the few places I've seen it tried, it didn't fare well. Nothing like a good brainstorming session...keep 'em coming.

quote: Originally posted by RURP: This is RURP: P.S. The Shield is a sissy route. I know, although I haven't done The Shield, only seen it from below. Well then Mr "Big walls Everywhere", perhaps you'd be interested to know that your buddy, yes the one and only lambone, has done the Shield. I'd be willing to bet that some of his regular partners have done the TC hence the detailed beta. Beta that to the best of my knowledge has not been refuted and is spot-on. Mr. BigWallEverywhere...have you freed the salathe? I doubt it, but I bet you could tell me the crux free rating. Look, I don't agree with some of 'bones views, but so what...that doesn't mean he's wrong or that I'm wrong, just different. And the fact that he's passionate about his opinions are a good thing in my view. Plain and simple, see if you can follow this...he's climbed the Shield...you have not. He will be in the valley on another wall come mid June...you, mr bigwalleverywhere, will be twidling your dick in front of a computer and slapping yourself on the back for your imagined witticisms and lame discourse. Get over yourself bro and go climb something...anything. I'm just real tired of a bunch of bitchy has-beens who can't let go of the notion of what they might have been and taking it out on the young climbers who are actually getting up stuff. In the grand scheme of things, lambone is pretty aligned with old school ethics. You said something about wanting a pole? I figured you were straddling that side of the fence. Not that there's anything wrong with that mind you, just have to find yourself a young greek wall partner ehh RURP. Here's to ya RURP

Just thinking out loud here but: Maybe a fund raiser event on a semi-annual basis could work. For example: At the spring/fall rope-ups maybe you could find someone to donate a couple of kegs of homebrew or something and charge for cups. Typical college scheme that I'm sure we all have experience with. Another idea is to have a slide show, perhaps in conjunction with the evil empire or something and use the proceeds to 1. Make a donation to something (Access Fund most likely, but I'd prefer something like the himalaya teachers charity..can't remember the name offhand) This would have the "feel good" draw on the yuppsters. You would get publicity via the evil empires' marketing forces. 2. Take the remainder of the proceeds and use them for CC. I think that with the breadth of experience in this crew, something like that could easily be accomplished.

quote: Originally posted by chucK: [so what exact bit of forethought do you use to know which placements will be available to you later on a pitch? 1. Look up...duh 2. If you've just placed your 2nd and last blue TCU, consider walking it ahead of you in the crack until you can place something else, cleaning it and having it higher on the pitch in case you need it. I do this semi-often. 3. My concern is usually more about having the right gear left to construct an anchor than about having the right pieces left for the pitch...you can always run it out a bit to a different sized placement.

Lands of granite (Yos, N. Cascades, Index, Squish)and Sandstone (Utah desert) await me for the next 18 months. Going back to the dirtbag climbing bum lifestyle where I belong. Then into a doctoral program in Park and Rec Admin.

Dammit E, why you give away my secrets? I'm gonna wrap this stay at CC up with a farwell 1000th post. Got a couple of days to get there. Hopefully I don't hit 999 and then really want to reply to something....

No problems with it. The manufacturers split the ropes you buy in the store off a continuous line from a given production run. That's why there are "short" ropes that some places sell of varying lengths...they are the end of a production run and the material doesn't come out precise enough to end the run with an exact length (i.e. 50m or 60m). If you don't melt the ends with good equipment you could get sheath slippage in some cases.

I got my times down a little by looking to the side of my moitor and using peripheral vision. Still the best I could do was .22

What is the point of avatars when the "real" user becomes evident? Some will say "but we know xyz avatar is really Ray"...and everyone who's said something like that to me has been BRRRRAAAAAAHHHHHH wrong. How do I know this? Because I knew who was using the avatars they were talking about (no not me). So I'd say a particular regular, who happens to have beef with Lambone (no not Cavey),is pretty evidently RURP. Not like this is news or anything, I believe the identity has been know from the get go. The comments about being negative getting to you to the point you have to hide your 'bone hatred behind an avatar? Feeling washed up? Wish you could get your big wall wannabe ass up something like the Shield? Good riddance RURP, long may you run. Just trying to stir up a little CC drama, my soap-operas are off the air today.

Just another H.U. - Red Rocks has tons of these things still around, be aware if you're headed that way.

I've heard about this off and on for months on OPB radio. After having just walked into the north side, using the Tilly Jane trail and the ski cabin as a rest stop, I've gotta say it makes me mad, fighting mad. There's something so nice about the north side...and that something is tranquility and seclusion. Do I wish I could have started from 6000 instead of 3700? Sure. But at the cost of development? Hell no! You want easier access? Wait until the Tilley Jane CG and Cloud Cap road open. The ski area as it is has virtually nothing...a t bar and rope tow, a few runs, not much elev, and not much in amenities. That's fine, keeps the masses out. Meadows is looking to expand because, lets face it, meadows is running at capacity in season. Portland area growth is still huge and they see the potential dollars...everyone sees that. Why am I telling you guys this? Hell we know all this, the question is how to educate/motivate/mobilize the masses of wilderness lovers in the area...and there are a shitload of them out there.

Matt A and Jason's experience basically mirrors my own. I would add: Investigate the euro web-sites such as Barrabes, sportextreme, and telemarkpyrenees. Generally much cheaper than US prices for the same gear. Check your local gear shops and climbing gyms for people selling off their rack...this works especially well in suburban yuppified areas. Do you one one "main" climbing partner? Build one rack between the two of you. Try to find deals on "sets" of nuts or cams. My first full set of cams came from me walking into a shop in Provo, UT and negotiating the price on a set of camalots to get it down to something I could afford. I've bought sets of BD stoppers for $65, and sets of DMM walnuts for $61. Got a friend that works for an outfitter, outdoor program, manufacturer, etc? Get them to hook you up with a pro-deal. Re: rigid friends. I've still got some from the 80's on my rack and I lived in the southeast for a long time where half the placements are in horizontals. They are bomber, but not such a good choice in smaller sizes due to levering and whatnot. In the large sizes they tend to be better because the stem generally doesn't interfere with the placement in a large crack. I keep the few I have left slung through the hole nearest the cam lobes...a "tied off" placement of sorts that eliminates the chance of levering the stem over an edge. You should really try to lead with some friends' racks to see which particular brands work best for you. You won't remember the $8 difference per cam when you're gripped on the 20th pitch trying to whip off the right size and place it before you pump out.

I've seen a few idea for funding etc tried out on other sites...user donations, sponsors, ads, etc. It seems that donations don't do the trick, just can't generate the dollars on a continual basis. Sponsors are tricky because they are not going to give something for nothing and the "something" they want back is exposure...and with this crew they might re-think that idea after the first hundred posts ripping them a new asshole for being corporate (yes, I'm guilty). Corporate/business donations in exchange for being a listed "patron" perhaps with the exposure component coming via a link on the main page to their company/product site might be an option. I know you guys have a good provider, and big storage, traffic, etc...so I know it's gotta be some significant out of pocket for you, especially considering the software cost and your status as climbers, even if you have a "real" job. I'm rambling and don't seem to be saying much, so I'll cut it. My feeling is that a corporate donor program may be the most viable way to infuse some cash in exchange for a link. (read what you want into this, I still won't be supporting the mega-corporations, but take their money? yes I would)

quote: Originally posted by carolyn: I will be in Portland this Saturday thru... (And hows about a pubclub that week - maybe wednesday? anyone plan on ? Mmmmmm budweiser! j/k...I promise to venture out and try a Terminal Gravity brew. carolyn Carolyn, they call Portland "beervana" for a reason. If you order a Bud here, you might go home in a body bag except that people are too mellow to confront you It's the microbrew capital! Do yourself a favor and sample the local goods, with spring rolling there are all sorts of lighter bodied beers if you're not up for the stouts and porters. Of course you have to try TG's IPA, and perennial local faves include Deschutes' Mirror Pond Ale, Bachelor ESB, Black Butte Porter; Portland Brewing's Blue Heron Ale, Black Watch Cream Porter; Bridgeport's IPA, ESB; Widmer Bros Hefeweizen; Full Sail's Pale, Amber,...you can find those bottled in about any store selling beer. I've never had a beer from the Lucky Lab that I disliked. Explore on all fronts! A visit to the Horsebrass Pub will yield a huge selection of local, british, and other international brew. Likewise the Produce Row Cafe. Don't miss the Thai, Vietnamese, and Indian food in town either, west coast is rampant with excellent asian food. Suggestions: Swagat for Indian. Pho Hung for Vietnamese specialty soups (pho). Saigon Kitchen for std viet and thai fare. Thai Peacock, Beau Thai, Lemongrass(my pref)for std Thai. Mmmm lunch time!

Good info folks. I was the one who originally suggested this hike to C. The beginning is kind of non-descript when you're climbing the initial talus/scree to gain the ridge. Once you get into the flats up top, around where the trail crosses the small creek, there is a wooden trail junction sign that'll let you know you're on track. The creek trail (return section of the loop) takes off left from there and loops back the way you came, but down the valley that was on your left on the hike in. You can not get lost on this section...just follow the creek down (trail is very used too). We parked at the outer lot next to the old restroom building. I belive the exit off Hyw 84 is number 51, the exit sign says "Eagle Creek / Fish hatchery" or something very similar. The initial section of trail we used to gain the ruckel was another trail...butler or buck or something...anyone? This was the first hike I did in Oregon, and still remains my favorite...of course the Eagle Creek trail is amazing too, but WAY crowded. We didn't see another person on the Ruckel...there was about 2 feet of snow on the upper half whe we did it so that might have been a factor. Regardless, the views are awesome, the elev gain is enough to get your body workin but not enough to wear you down. I thought the gain was in the mid 2000 range? It's been well over a year since I hiked it, and that's alot of bong tokes ago.