willstrickland

Well we had both on the eastside, Lucky Lab and Horsebrass. But, Monday nights is "Miser Monday" at the Lab with $6.75 pitchers! Also, the PRG is right around the corner more or less, and there's a fair amount of climbers in the place after finishing a session in the gym. Not quite my crew, being the Smith contingent, but some of you might know them. It doesn't matter to me where you have it, home is where the van is parked...I slept 50 yards from the Lab last Monday night.

quote: Originally posted by Country Jake: of coarse no one has as good of dope as us eugene hippies,.... I know some hippies in Arcata and Vancouver who might disagree with you there. And my friend in my .sig, Smoke-a-pelli, he's got a pipe load of the Dhurban Poison goin', straight from the hippies of...Iowa. No kidding.

Yeah, we've had a couple down here. I would take the reins to whip up another, but I'm honestly too busy right now..being homeless and all that. Someone else, please step up and get it going, I'll be there...or if it means more people would show up, I'll stay away

Thanks Shawn, that's the info I was looking for.

Ok so we're talking an AT set-up...that's alpine touring right? What about lengths and such? I'm compact 5'8", 140.

Hey trask, I'm homeless (really) and I ain't drinkin no Ripple or Boones. You just showed everyone that you don't know what the housing-challenged consume. Try Colt 45 22's, MadDog 20/20, The $1.85 tax included half-pints of "Blended American Whiskey", and the older cats still even drink Thunderbird and Nighttrain. Ripple was for homies in Watts, or on Sanford and Son, Boones is for teenage girls...and Kid Rock.

Rockin, thanks Brock. I'm looking at picking up some Silvretta 400s and whatever happens to be attched to them used for cheap. Sounds like the way to go for me.

Nah man, they're all out of stock...seems to be a common problem with Altrec

Well, no takers yet Wes, so maybe when you get back. I may solo the WyEast Sat night, and then take a side trek on the descent to check out the potential.

Have you now? Why don't you PM me and we'll see if it's the same area we're talking about...I know of more than one that meet the description I wrote.

Anybody interested in going up there on Sun to see what the ice is all about and try to get in some lines? Sounds like hard shit with poor anchor possibilities. Still interested? Reply quick, I'm outta here soon

Alrighty, here's the deal: I don't ski, I'm a Georgia hick. I board, but have only been on two-sticks a couple of times when I was a kid. Seems to me that I need to aquire some for approaches. So my question would be: What kind of set-up should I be looking for? I figure I won't be skiing lift-served, but just skinning and the downhill back to trailheads. I need something I can find CHEAP/USED, and something that's a little forgiving for a chump non-skier like me. I don't know AT from Randonee from Slurpee...

quote: Originally posted by glennm: 5)Ever notice who has published most of the NW trail and climbing guides over the years?That would be the Mountaineers, right? Just a comment. Let's be clear here, the Mountaineers Books is a separate arm of the Mounties. They are essentially "hired guns" in the publishing field. I very much doubt that even half of the authors of Mountaineers published books are members. Correct me if I'm wrong but that's my feeling from the authors that come to mind. It doesn't really matter, but out of all that you wrote, that was the thing that immediately struck me.

Right Here

It's pretty easy for routefinding, there are ALOT of options up high. Check out this picture for a very good look at the Reid. (This site has THE best photos of Hood I've seen for scoping climbing lines, although the routes aren't overlayed, the photos themselves are great)Reid/Palmer

Actually SpecEd, I think you're talking the North Chimneys. When I was meeting god on K-I, my bros Jim and Benji were on the NC's. While I was struggling to pull into the squeeze after the constriction (just below the dreaded OW) Jim sounded like he was right next to me. I was grunting, cussing, and generally making a ruckus. He was over there laughing his ass off. You're right, it's definitely a rite of passage, I was a fledgling 5.10 leader when I did it the first time and it made me respect old school 5.9 as being hard as shit.

Holy shit, I think Dick and I are in agreement...can't you feel the love

It's the only one I own. The #5 camalot will cover anything smaller. I've only placed it like 3 times, but it's one of those "when you need it, you REALLY need it" deals. After all, I'm not Chuck Pratt. I bought it after I almost soiled my drawers on Kor-Ingalls when I liebacked the OW section and almost pitched trying to get back in the squeeze chimney.

quote: Originally posted by Richard Pumpington: I'm a fan of some of his ideals, but not his gigantic ego and attitude. Coulda fooled me Dick. Pot-kettle-black eh? And hey Dick, how come you let little Scottyteryx punk your ass on SummitPost.com? Like this: "This Pumpington character seems to be "above" us all. A "real" climber. Maybe he needs to create "epicsummitpost.com" or "techclimber.com". I know for me, my home is here amongst a few others on the web.I have had personal emails with Dick P before via cascadeclimbers.com, and I cannot remember but I think it had tension in it as well." And while we're at it, Scott if you don't care for this site, fuck off and go twiddle your pecker over there where you have your little admin spot. Don't be knocking CC in another public forum because you were too much of a pussy to ask K to smoke outside. here's a little snippet of Scotty's babble: "As moderator of this board I am really pissed off. What the hell just went on here? I was gone for 8 hours and all hell broke loose. This is not freakin elementary school here kiddies! Listen everyone, if you want spray, then go to cascadeclimbers.com, not here. This is an incredibly informative website for people of all skill levels, and I will not allow this crap to go on here. If Mr Pumpington wishes to leave with his mountains, that is fine - unfair, but fine. It is a community website that has been graciously donated to us the climbers." And you pay how much to use CC? Jerkoff.

quote: Originally posted by crack addict: i agree with rob. this is very bad advice. It wasn't advice, it was pair of options.

Check out the ASCA page if you really want info. You can find a link on Chris's Supertopo site. I won't ever encourage bolting, but if you're going to do it, at least do it right. You might consider just taking them to the local TR crag, then if they hate it, you've not wasted your time with the bolts, plus you can put them on a few different routes. I'd say they'd get "over" the backyard boulder after a couple of ascents. But, I guess you could always use the bolts to hang a swing, animal carcass, etc.

quote: Originally posted by jules: Do you think that the assortment is good in ANY of the categories? Very lacking in most catagories (especially Ice tools, axes, cramps). Those categories which are better I've noted below along with my perception of the deficiencies in these. 1. Non-lock crabs has OK selection, but although they have OP, they don't have the two lightest models of OP (JC and the Doval) 2. Harness selection is OK, would be nice to see Yates in there. 3. Shoes: Lots of models, but no Anasazis velcro or lace up? This is one of the most popualr shoes on the planet (although I don't use them). No Newtons? No Scarpas at all? 4.Climbing packs has 7 models, only one of which I'd actually use for climbing. 5. Helmet selection: No problems I see Finally, the leather ice/mtneering boot selection is pitiful.

quote: Originally posted by jules: What do you think REI climbing dept. (mainly in Seattle, Redmond, and online) does well? Not much What don't we do well?Stock enough variety, give good advice, care for the equipment (i.e. you don't leave ropes that you plan to sell in full-on lighting not knowing how long they will be there before they sell), provide closeout gear (not REI couldn't sell it, but the manufcaturer changed color/model/etc), have great prices (uh wasn't the whole idea behind this co-op to get cheap climbing gear from Europe by using collective buying power...10% back is not utilizing that power) How can we add authenticity to the dept.?Hire people who know what the hell they're talking about. Carry a "real" selection of climbing gear...REI is the biggest store carrying climbing goods with the weakest selection of those goods. Climbmax has more selection in a store the size of an apartment. How do we meet/miss meeting your needs?Oooh, this could be a can of worms. You don't meet my needs because my needs are two: 1. stock a wide variety of gear and 2. Use the co-op power to get me deals at slightly above wholesale. You say admin, I say no marketing, you say overhead, I say no stupid f&@%$ glossy mail-out catalogs. The co-op is lost, it has reached the state of a typical department type store. When "profit margins" and things of that ilk influence decision making, the NON-PROFIT co-op is screwed. I've actually thought about starting a climbers' co-op myself to return to what REI used to be. Of course the manufacturers would probably have none of it, but I have my ways. Who do you think is our core customer (in the cimbing dept)? Are you a part of that group? Youth starting out needing the basic get-up (harness/shoes/belay device/etc) and the yuppster sport climbers. No, I am not a part of those groups. Any other comments? Yeah, the spirit of the co-op is lost. I still like the fact that I can walk in there and have a 90% chance of leaving with what I came for as long as it's not CLIMBING gear. It's one-stop camp shopping, and that's not bad, but the focus on apparrel, and non-technical apparel to be specific is a joke. In my mind "Recreational Equipment Inc" does not equal "Leisure Clothing Ltd" Not trying to be caustic in my statements above Jules, but I think the "flagship" store concept and all the "gee whiz" crap that went in it was a signal of the end. REI is solidly on the road that LL Bean and Eddie Bauer took. Just my $0.02

It's that time of year ya'll, the ice is gone and wall season is upon us so get psyched! Here's a memory of days gone by to help stimulate your appetite.

Here's the view I was treated to on my way home from restoring a route. The old man in the sky appears to be pleased.