willstrickland

Hola kiddies, Just passing through PDX to take care of some financial bidness on the way to cooler rock. Washington climbers...Crazy Jamie is doing you proud...did Zenyatta and on the Sea of Dreams right now in fact, and Lambone and crew were on the Trip last I saw them. No walls for me this time, partner did not come prepared and I'm too lazy to solo in the heat. Middle Cathedral area has been seeing crazy rockfall both in the descent gully from the Cat Walk (making Stoners Hwy, DNB, E butt, etc essentially off limits if you're smart), as well as in the area of the DNB. One guy trundled on himself and broke an arm in the fall on the DNB, another guy narrowly got missed on the Central Pillar from spontaneous rockfall, and a party on Lower Cathedral Spire had a flake blow ripping the belay in the process and they somehow did not go to the deck. A rope soloist on Braille Book was climbing with a soloist, didn't tie back-up knots and decked off the first pitch from 70ft. Shattered elbow and hip but stable, guys in the adjacent camp to us were above him on the 2nd pitch and rapped to give him aid then watched him get mangled after spending 5 hours to get him stable and stop the bleeding....until the chopper had a glitch on takeoff and drug the litter through the trees shearing off a 14inch diameter pine and crushing the climber to death. Highlights for me were: 1. One awesome slabby boulder problem (Blue Suede Shoes) 2. One awesome steep boulder problem (Don't make me kick your ass) 3. One relentless crack (Lunatic Fringe) 4. And one funky chimney (Reeds Direct) Took a head-first and backwards screamer off the 3rd pitch of Reed's direct when I pulled onto a face hold, crimped the shit out of it and broke the crystal off in my fingers...this was about half way up the pitch...not even at the crux. There's a good photo of the cam lobe bruises in my back from where I fliped into the wall with the rack pinned between. My belayer looked shocked...I came to rest looking eye to eye with him....then I got to finish the pitch... a mellow .10 OW move. Good times, great oldies...headed to Index and Squish soon...I need partners...drop me a line if you have weekdays free for Index/L-worth and Squish... Hasta, Will

"spider caught a fly, spider caught a fly" "ten-four Jimbo"

Interesting that they call it "summitting" rather than "climbing" ehh?

Most people think of "da kind" as a mellowing influence, but it acutally raises blood pressure and heart rate. My training method is to wake up, rip tubes, stretch while drinking a triple mocha. By the time I finish stretching, heart rate is cruising along at anaerboic threshold...ahh nature's little helpers. No wonder I'm such a badass

1000! Whooo hoo! Well guy and gals, it's been fun. The northwest has been VERY good to me, and I'll be missing it. This chapter in my life has come to a close and this time tomorrow I'll be sitting in Humboldt County, my first stop en-route to Yosemite. I've secured an offer to author a guidebook, which should hit the shelves in Spring '04. My summer will find me climbing for pleasure in Yosemite, and the NW, and then it's on to the Utah desert for about 8 months of climbing and writing. Once the book wraps, I'll be headed to graduate school again to pursue a doctorate in Recreation and Park Administration at NC State. Summers will probably find me in the valley, but it looks like I'll be an east-coaster for a few years again come late 2003. I've learned alot from the posts on this site, (believe it or not)and hopefully I've contributed something useful on occasion. I'd list off names, but that would take too long and I'd space someone I meant to include. Suffice it to say that I've climbed with some of you,chopped with a couple of ya, drank with more of you, and argued with quite a few of you. It's a cool thing you've got going up here, and hopefully I'll see some of you and catch a Seattle Pub Club around late July. If anyone is headed to the valley, post a note on the camp 4 board if you want to link-up. I'll be down there from this weekend through about mid-July, and then back down there from mid August til about mid-Sept. I'll post some random updates or trip reports at times, but for all intents and purposes, this is my last post Be safe out there everyone, and I'll see you in the hills! Cheers

CHIK.....blurbbleblelbelbelblel.....swooooooooosssshhhhhhhhh....COUGHCOUGHCOUGH....ahhhhhhh!

Get a grip on reality man. Do a little thinking huh!? For one, what in god's name would Colin have to gain by falsifying his account? Seems that everyone who knows him already has an extremely high opinion of him and his abilities, so he doesn't need to imprss them. The naysayers don't know him, and why would he care what they think anyway? Not like he's saying "I am Colin Lastnamehere, and I put up a new mixed route on the N side of Stuart...it's graded V 5.11+ WI7+ M8 but we did it in 4 hours car to car, now bow down to me gapers". What a bunch of ridiculous shit...why would you even give a flying fart about what someone else climbed unless you want beta from them? Geez.

quote: Originally posted by allison: [/qb] Not having a dumbstick is hardly a bad thing, unless of course you are tying to write your name in the snow.[/QB] Tell it to the CEOs of the world

Sorry to be a little off-topic pete, just thought I'd relate this story (keep in mind I just spent last weekend unroped on a glacier and don't intend to lecture here) In July 2000, I was having a good 'ol time in the valley. Walking back from the village store to Camp 4 one day, I spotted a familiar sticker on a vehicle...ORGT (outdoor recreation georgia tech) and then realized that I knew the car as well. It belonged to my friend Trey, a fellow GT student when I was an undergrad, fellow climber, and all around likable guy. Some dude was getting out of the car so I strolled up and asked him about the car. The story he related went like this: This guy was on rescue at Ranier the previous year. He bought the car when a snowboarder turned up missing and his folks came out to recover his things. Of course, the snowboarder was Trey. After Ga Tech, Trey went on to med school at Emory University...a top 25 school. He had just been assigned to residency at a Seattle area hospital and had been in the area for only three weeks. Deciding to hike up to Muir one day for the ride down, Trey was reported seen in the hut and never again. Crevasse lunch, no doubt. Storm rolled in for the next couple of days and his body was never recovered. Here's a clip from the rescue notes: William "Trey" Teitjen, 28, who recently had completed medical school in Georgia and moved to Seattle, was last seen June 20 at Camp Muir preparing to descend the mountain on a snowboard during conditions of blowing snow. We never saw a trace of him again, Krambrink said. The search cost was $30,752. Hate to be a bummer (you can imagine how I felt standing in the camp4 lot listening to the tale of one of my very first climbing buddies getting the chop when I didn't even know he was gone), but it's something to think about anyway...I went out and soloed the arches, sat at the top and cried for a while and wished him well.

Mattp, nobody will stand for your anti-splintering strong arm tactics I will drop steamer coils on your pubclub and make you eat dingleberry salad. You want cheap grub eat this sucka

The David Faustalo book titled "Self-rescue" has decent illustrations of how to construct a 5:1 by adding a "c" to an existing "z" system. Fairly straightforward, particularly if you're well versed in the std "z" system. Good book all in all, I recommend it, although I don't care for his use of the mariner...personal thing more than anything else.

Thanks winter, very well crafted. I'll stick one in the mail.

I hear Billy Bob Thorton and Angelina Jolie have adopted a child...you'd think Angie's brother would have knocked her up by now, why the need to adopt?

Whatever happened to that thar Hayduke feller? I hear tell he lives!

Yeah man, I get that affliction too. My method is to use the 4 breath method. I hit the ledge, count off four deep full breaths while looking at the moves and launch on the conclusion of the fourth. Seems to work for me unless I'm feeling pumped, and then I hang out until recovered.

This has been hashed out before, but since I've changed my method I'll chime in again. I used to triple the thing and then wind around it and clip the ends. That was too time consuming, but I still use that method at the end of the day because it produces a very neat package. Now I use I's method. Triple it over and tie an overhand in the middle. Quick and easy... The "stick it in pocket" method is asking to loose the cordelette. I've dropped alot of shit out of pockets and the cordelette isn't somthing I want to be dropping often.

Pop

For the record...here's 'bone's original post: goddammit erik, we can hate each other if we want to, you bastard...that's what climbers do when trapped indoors on sunny dayz...they look for excuses to get pissed. moderate this asswipe

Yeah SOC, and get them dingleberries while you're down there you know you want to

As a 5 consecutive year volunteer for the Atlanta Special Olympics, I'm with E and sayjay. You're walking on thin ice shitface

quote: Originally posted by chucK: #1: Do you climb in the real world where sometimes you cannot see all the way up the pitch? #2: Do you always make sure you walk at least one of every size up with you until you can see the anchors? #3: ??? This is exactly what I was saying but you just call it an anchor instead of a placement. Why don't you just 1. Look up at the belay spot duh? Or 2 just walk every piece up with you? [/QB] 1. Look man, you're not going to take all the uncertainty out of the climbing, otherwise what's the point? You look up and see as much as you can and try to plan accordingly. 2. No, I don't. I try to concentrate more on making the moves and getting from stance to stance or moving quickly enought to not pump out. Many people overprotect and that is why they run out of gear, not because they didn't bring enough. 3. It's nowhere near the same thing. At some point, my ass and my partner's ass are both replying on the anchor to keep us alive. Typically if I run out of the right gear, I can run it out to the anchors, or run it out to another placement of a different size. Maybe there's the chance of a death-fall from the runout, but not likely. Anchor fails, on a hanging belay, you die..period. If you end up at the end of the pitch, out of rope, and don't have enough gear...your phu-kayed...hope your downclimbing skills are good or you can hang out at that spot long enough to pull up more gear on the tag line.

What's your point jerky? I could have an avatar (i.e. RURP) that's only been used to post 100 times...BFD. You seem to forget that you're not dealing with someone incapable of rational thought. Get away from the computer? Let's see, I spent a year climbing, the next year working and spraying, and now get another 1 1/2 years climbing...you do the math. Don't even try me ya jizzface, you're out classed by a very wide margin...wider than your fat ass in fact. ...and now you know the rest of the story. Good day.

I know that over on rockclimbing.com, they take donations and list the people who've contributed much as you're suggesting. That site has a TON of users, and they don't seem to raise much money that way. I'm not saying it won't work, just that in the few places I've seen it tried, it didn't fare well. Nothing like a good brainstorming session...keep 'em coming.

quote: Originally posted by RURP: This is RURP: P.S. The Shield is a sissy route. I know, although I haven't done The Shield, only seen it from below. Well then Mr "Big walls Everywhere", perhaps you'd be interested to know that your buddy, yes the one and only lambone, has done the Shield. I'd be willing to bet that some of his regular partners have done the TC hence the detailed beta. Beta that to the best of my knowledge has not been refuted and is spot-on. Mr. BigWallEverywhere...have you freed the salathe? I doubt it, but I bet you could tell me the crux free rating. Look, I don't agree with some of 'bones views, but so what...that doesn't mean he's wrong or that I'm wrong, just different. And the fact that he's passionate about his opinions are a good thing in my view. Plain and simple, see if you can follow this...he's climbed the Shield...you have not. He will be in the valley on another wall come mid June...you, mr bigwalleverywhere, will be twidling your dick in front of a computer and slapping yourself on the back for your imagined witticisms and lame discourse. Get over yourself bro and go climb something...anything. I'm just real tired of a bunch of bitchy has-beens who can't let go of the notion of what they might have been and taking it out on the young climbers who are actually getting up stuff. In the grand scheme of things, lambone is pretty aligned with old school ethics. You said something about wanting a pole? I figured you were straddling that side of the fence. Not that there's anything wrong with that mind you, just have to find yourself a young greek wall partner ehh RURP. Here's to ya RURP

Just thinking out loud here but: Maybe a fund raiser event on a semi-annual basis could work. For example: At the spring/fall rope-ups maybe you could find someone to donate a couple of kegs of homebrew or something and charge for cups. Typical college scheme that I'm sure we all have experience with. Another idea is to have a slide show, perhaps in conjunction with the evil empire or something and use the proceeds to 1. Make a donation to something (Access Fund most likely, but I'd prefer something like the himalaya teachers charity..can't remember the name offhand) This would have the "feel good" draw on the yuppsters. You would get publicity via the evil empires' marketing forces. 2. Take the remainder of the proceeds and use them for CC. I think that with the breadth of experience in this crew, something like that could easily be accomplished.