Ced

Looking for info on access, I read on Bivouac that the Foley Cr FSR was blocked. Does anyone know if I can still make it to the roads leading to the Williamson Lake trail and drive to the trail head? Cheers Ced.

Thanks for the info. We climbed the route yesterday (Sat. June 25), it was great, good position on the ridge with interesting and fun climbing. I'm surprised that it doesn't see a ton of traffic. If it was in the rockies the route would be a classic and have polished foot holds. Well worth the $25 for the ride up. Cheers Ced

Looking for info on the Blackcomb Buttress route, is it mostly a 4th class rigdge or mainly low 5th as indicated. Are there anchors at the belays? and would we get away with using a 50m rope? Thanks Ced

Thanks for the info. Ced

Considering the trip at the end of Sept. or Oct., with the shorter days how long does it take to hike in, and what are the camp sites like? Is there water near by, or were you melting snow? And for summit day is it a short day up & down? Cheers Ced.

I was up there last Sept., The glacier is very straight forward but I wouldn't go unroped. On our way down we were messing around in the crevasses and saw a group following our tracks up. They were over a large crevasse that I outflanked,from my vantage I could see only a 12inch snow bridge supporting their weight. Its your call but if you go stay to the far right of the snow ridge up the glacier, and connect onto the right ridge (west?) lower down. If you goto the left ridge it also had a few crevasses opening up. Cheers Ced.

Are there any bolted belays on Blackcomb Buttress? Cheers Ced

Stopped by MEC this aft. they didn't have Selkirk North out yet... Ced.

Snow is down quite low still, We parked on the Cat lk. side when we hit the snow. We were about 1.5 - 2 km from the Mid station but with the warmer weather all weel it should only be about one km. Have a good trip, I still think that climbing over the pinnical on the ridge is the crux of the route. Cheers Ced

That was us, what a great day on Sun. Camped at the bivy on Brohm ridge, clouds at bedtime with -4 overnight; woke up to clear skies at 0330. Not a crevasse to be crossed all the way to the summit. Burgshrund(s) are filled in very well leaving the straight shot up. Snow varied from mid boot to thigh in depth with the majority of time sinking in to our knees. My partner did all the work busting a trail up. The final head wall had some thin snow areas but easily climbed and decended. There was a small cornice on the ridge which left a short area below the bergshrund exposed, we were down & out of its danger by 8:30. I was surprised and impressed by some of the skiers who skied down from the summit!!! Cheers Ced. Thanks for the info Fern

Climb: Garibaldi-N.E. Face Date of Climb: 4/22/2004 Trip Report: I'm planning my yearly trip up brohm ridge to climb the N.E. face. We've spent the last three years in a white out without seeing the route up. With the good weather this weekend were making a run for it. Anyone been up recently to give a conditions report? Is the Bergshrund starting to open with all the warm weather? Cheers Ced Approach Notes: Brohm ridge.

An addition to daler's report for those heading up for the ice fest this weekend. We were in Banff last week, all climbs were in fat conditions with the popular routes kicked out. Louise Falls - A steal at a 4 This house of sky - a fun route, but we didn't slog up to the last two pitches at the top of the bowl. Ghost access was easy with a normal 4x4 ei. Jeep, Pathfinder... Professors - Seeing alot of traffic 7 parties on Wed. probably due to Cascade falling. Second last pitch very wet, last pitch (crux)in good conditions. Halfner - lots of ice. Our rest day at Grotto saw the falls in the fattest conditions I've seen. His & Hers are in the sun and about a half to a third the size of normal. Mental jewelry seemed to have bigger holds, someone must be climbing with a prospectors hammer. Cheers Ced.

The moaning tree wall was in as of Jan. 5th. Left side was real thin, 3-4" for a good part. A fellow from another party strapped on a large pair and lead it with three stubbies. Right side had great ice, we played here then TR'd the left side. A great day so close to the LMD. Not sure of what the routes were called. Cheers Ced

On the same line, how about the fellow from Colorado who cut off his own hand!!! Then hiked out on his own.

Good climb Jordop, I couldn't make it back before this warm weather hit. How was the decent could you rap off the trees or abalakov's? If we get another cold snap before the snow hits, I'll head back. Cheers Ced.