willstrickland

Hey kidz, My friend and climbing partner from grad school is conducting some research on climbing and the family aspects of climbing as stressors. The study is funded by an American Alpine Club research grant, and details are in the latest AAC e-newsletter. If you have some free time, I encourage you to visit the survey on-line (info below) and fill it out. This is not a "school project", but academic research. My friend Mike and I may well be the only two committed climbers pursuing a career in Rec and Park Admin academia. Mike currently teaches at Christopher Newport College in Virginia Beach. The link and info is below. Thanks in advance. The info: AAC Survey Once there, select "Visit as a guest." You will then find instructions followed by the questionnaire. Please read all of the instructions before you begin. The questionnaire may take up to 30 minutes to complete. You should also note that this questionnaire is completely confidential, and your responses are anonymous

11/11/73...believe it! And I don't think he was heavy-smackin 'til around '81 or so, '76 was universally known as the year of the 'ludes (listen to any show from '76 and you'll know why) so '77 was probably runnin' on the "bolivian marching powder"

quote: Originally posted by imorris: quote:Originally posted by willstrickland: C. 5-8-77 Either you know or you don't. Barton Hall, NY? Good second set. Bling bling. Monster Scarlet->Fire in the 2nd. Many say best show ever, great but not my all-time. Likely the best run they ever had though, I've got the shows from 5-5 through 5-9, on DAT sitting in a basement in Atlanta somewhere. Phil is in tha hizzouse, but for the true bomb dropping Phil-fest check out Cape Cod '79 and the run-in to Other One.

Aloha Brother Dwayner! Hows about pretending you were in Chi-town for the Demo-convention '68? Me and Panther will come beat you down with billy clubs so you get the full-experience.

The only numbers you need be concerned about are: A.That hot little number working the espresso bar B.That fat green number you were tokin' on C. 5-8-77 Either you know or you don't. D. 800-40

I vote for myself. I'm an EXTREEEM gaper.

What are they putting in the water up there in B-ham? If it's a pain, UNCLIP it from your harness, geez. 6 pitches, free...butt bag. You'll move fast enough that it won't eb a big deal and you won't have to carry or haul the bosun's. Here's the dealie-o though, on a long aid route, especially when you're hauling a bag but no portaledge, use the bosun's as a "frame" for backpacking your haulbag. I think TNF/A5 makes a haulbag/bosun's combo that is designed to fit together like this, but a retro-job on your bag with a cheap piece of plywood will accomplish the same thing for a fraction of the price. I don't care for A5 stuff (although I do have a tiny A5 subbag I got for $25 for the pin rack or the days' food and water, it's a flimsy made piece of shit). WS

In my expereince, it's been MUCH different than Yos. Never noticed any issues, so that must be a good thing right? The big issues in Yos all revolve around there not being enough walk-in sites (read:cheap sites, Camp 4 fills every day from May-Sept) as well as stay-limits. Us trying to get around it and getting caught, or even getting in line to renew your site very early or in the middle of the night and sleeping in the line-up, leads to alot of problems. Once the first "punch" is thrown (like getting rousted by a ranger at 3:45 am, being told you can't sleep there, and having nowhere you can go instead, and still needing to be in line super early to get a spot...) the escalation starts. In the summer of 2000 after numerous hassles with one particular LE Ranger (law enf) I rallied six other climbers and filed a formal complaint against this ranger with the super's office. The only solution there is to put as much emphasis on cheap walk-in sites as they do on posh $200/night lodging. You got no worries anyway, because if it's a climbing ranger position, you and about 20,000 other people will apply. I once applied for a climbing ranger spot at Zion...I have a Master's in Rec and Park Admin, been a climber for a long time, done a bunch of routes in Zion, had letters of recommendation from US Congressmen, etc and still got screwed out of the spot because a local bumpkin chick, with less qualifications who knew the selection committee applied, you tell me who got selected... Apparently she didn't last long since someone else is now in that position.

Well Bug you know what they say: "When life gives you lemons make...a lemonade enema" try that

Well man, I was headed to Index that day, but tell me more 'bout this shindig...same distance for me either way, wish my old bandmates were around then it could be a double bill...Rhythm Pimps with special guests PuffTuff.

Thanks for all the feedback and info ya'll. Re: the mirror versus glass prism comment is right-on, but I think the Maxxum 5 has good viewfinder coverage, not 100% (it's 90%), which is really only available in high end stuff. That 28-80 lens weighs 6oz for a total rig weight of about 18oz. FWIW, I'm looking at some medium format fixed lens AF rangefinders (specifically Fuji) that are essentially a point and shoot medium format with extremely sharp lenses (not as fast as I wish they were though). If anyone has seen med format slides compared to 35mm, WOW! The difference is amazing.

Just a comment: Regarding penetration when swinging (not arresting), a heavier axe will not always penetrate better than a lighter one, even if both have the same pick angle/sharpness/etc. Why is this? Because if the weight is more concentrated near the head in one and more toward the spike in another, the lighter axe with weight more toward the head could penetrate better...this is something worth considering in these superlight axes...IMO anyway.

Like Lambone, I say "HALF DOME". Why? Because I also have one and they are awesome. VERY well made. I will say though, take a look at the YATES Fat sack...Yates Fat Sack of tha' kind! The old Spaceshot haulnbags from ClimbMoab were the best deal period...if you can find one. ALso worth a look for the budget minded are the Fish bags. I've had some Fish gear and it's all been very good and reasonably priced. I've never heard anyone say anything bad about Fish products. Have fun and prepare for some PAIN! Oink oink!

quote: Originally posted by Juneriver: I'm not a camera expert, but I just got a Nikon N65 and am very happy with it Juneriver, you are actually the consumer the Maxxum 5 is targeted at...it's supposed to compete with the N65, Cannon Rebel (it actually blows them outta the water). Just curious if you checked out the Maxxum and if so why you chose the Nikon over it.

quote: Originally posted by beefcider: The drawback of a Meduim format camera vs. a 35mm (slr or p&s) is that it has less depth of field. Hmmm, that's the first I've heard of that. Why would that be the case? Depth of field is a function of the aperature, and even at a given f-stop value, say f8, the med format would have a larger opening (I assume anyway) than the same setting for a 35mm...is that why? It's like shooting a wider (say f5.6) equivalent in 35mm? Seems reasonable enough. That reminds me...Maxxum 5 had a depth of field preview button. The Mamiya 7 or 7II rangefinder comes to mind. Very, very sharp images but several thousands of dollars just to get one. There is no precise control of depth of field due to the rangefinder contruction.[/QB} That's when I start looking used, Mamiya 6 (a 6cm x 6cm format rather than the 6x7 of the "7") can be had for a decent price if you can find one. Is the depth of field issue in the rangefinder because you're not actually viewing TTL and can't see the change when composing? I thought that 35 SLRs used a mechanism where when composing the aperature is set wide open to allow a brighter viewfinder and stops down when you hit the shutter release? [QB]Until you get to the pro level of SLRs, all cameras within a class offer the same basic features and image quality. I'd dispute this, especially in the case of the Maxxum 5. This thing is squarely positioned to take on the entry-level SLR's likemthe Rebel G, or N65. The feature set is almost the same as their Maxxum7 or 9 level pro rigs. 3fps advance built-inpredictive AF, Depth of field preview, autobracketing...those are features I actually use and the AF system is the same thing they're using for the 7. Image quality is (generally) much more a function of the film and (even more so) the glass than the box (unless you've got problems like light leaks/bad meter). Sorry for rambling... Good info, thanks.

So you want a small, light, sharp and fast camera? You would buy the Yashica T4 because the lens is superb and it's fast for a p/s, but there's no exposure compensation/control. You would buy the Olympus Stylus Epic 35mm fixed lens because it's fast, cheap, and weatherproof, but the lens isn't sharp enough. You would carry a beater SLR, but it weighs too much and you have to focus. Solution: Minolta Maxxum 5. The smallest/lightest autofocus 35mm SLR made. The body only weighs 11.8oz. The new lens, made to pair with it, a 28-80 f3.5-5.6, is sharp and the lightest/smallest 35mm zoom made. Lens mounts are metal. 3fps continuous advance. Autobracketing to +/- 2ev in .3, .5, .7, or 1.0 ev steps. User accessible custom functions. Eye-start means the camera turns power on when you put your eye to the viewfinder. TTL flash metering, built in fill-flash. This thing is freakin' loaded with features (useful features, not frilly crap) and runs the bargain price of about $300 WITH the 28-80. Accepts the standard Maxxum lenses with a superb, inexpensive 1.7 50mm that runs about $70. I've found my solution, after checking one of these out over the weekend, I'm sold. By comparison, the Olympus fixed lens weighs 5oz, the T4 weighs 6.7oz, and the Olympus with a 28-115 zoom weighs in at 8oz.

quote: Originally posted by Alpine Tom: It doesn't work w/o batteries; very few new SLRs do, mostly in the upper ranges (in cost, features and weight.) He's right, doesn't work without batts, and everything can be set manually. The comment on mostly high end stuff working without batts is not entirely true. NO autofocus (excluding a fixed focus duh) works without batts. No P/S that I know of works without batts (unless you call some of the old med format rangefinders p/s). A basic, no frills older slr will often expose without batts, but the meters work off batts. The batteries in these things are tiny (but expensive) so carrying a spare isn't a big deal. Everything else that was mentioned, especially the APS (read: advantix etc) just doesn't cut it on optics. The few p/s that do have superb optics (i.e. the yashica, contax T2/T3, and Rolleis) are either featureless with regards to exposure control, or cost a fortune (Contax street price is around $750). I'm actually looking for an old med format rangefinder...p/s size, much bigger film format (yielding better resolution and absolutely stunning slides), and interchangable lenses that are generally very sharp across the spectrum of manufacturers. And many of these also allow operation without batteries. Just kinda heavy and tough to find a great deal on a used one since the pros snap them up.

Sorry Dru, I know it'll break your heart and crush your fantasies, but only the weigh-in naked, not the wrestling.

Erik, maybe we can market some "finger jammies"..."instantly improve your finger crack climbing and protect your delicate digits". Sheesh, we could just market regular latex medical gloves as all-in-one disposable hand/finger jammies, only $25.95 a box, Chevy TheNorthFace Edition Avalanche not included.

Swing 'er round port and back home cap'n, we's got a net (ha!) full of 'em. Look, it's not me (Blight), but damn guys can't you see that big-ass spoon lure coming through the water?

Where you guys been? Do a search...we had a thread on Raven v. Air Tech about three weeks ago, lots of good info and such...click on this link for the threadAll-around ice axe discussion

quote: Originally posted by wayne1112: lunch. See if you can beat my time on it : Just over 6 years to send it. And before you chuckleheads start spewing about how you're gonna flash it, you might wanna open that copy of Portland Rock Climbs and check out the FA section...look at Death and Taxes, Excalibur, Stone Rodeo, Go Back to the Gym, Bloodline, Killer Pygmy, Sea of Holes...hmmm notice anything? I did, nothing under .12 or A4 in that list.

Hey Pope...yeah it's Pike, and that's the best Scotch Ale I've ever tasted, I'm with you. Icegirl..what kinda modest pansies are you riding with? I don't know much about cycling (except that I can crash my mtn bike with the best of them), but the high school and college wrestling I did often had a public weigh-in. Most dudes hit the scale in their underwear unless they were really close to weight and it might make the crucial difference. Me on the other hand, I'd strip to the buff before jumping on the scale just to get a reaction out of the suburbanite moms in the crowd. Coaches and teams only weigh-ins were a little different, one year I could have wrestled a class lighter than I was so I could hit the scales fully clothed with a winter coat on, still got naked for the State tourny weigh-in. More red faces in that gym than an indian bar.

Sent Lowe my Gannt gloves, which were coming unstitched at one finger, about two weeks ago. I got a new pair, of the new models, in the mail today. I had removed the fleece liners before sending them in (this is my normal practice when sending things for warranty/repair, take everything off the item that will come off...got extra bivy sack poles now, extra liners, and extra gaiter, etc to show for it). Sent my Alpine Lite pack back to Granite at the same time. Got it back last week with extensive burly bartacked repairs from where I shredded it bushwhacking. I had talked with them and told them I didn't ecxpect it to be warranty work because I'd spent hours thrashing in Manzanita with it and to let me know how much it would cost after they had a chance to look it over. They did all the repair work for free. Not bad, and probably alot of it was the approach and/or attitude I used rather than the particular manufacturer.

Don't get me started man. Just say "too much"