willstrickland

You don't really have a point there Rob. You're trying to imply that I gave someone shit for the "onsight" phrase, when in fact it was the other way around. If you recall, I used "onsight" to describe a simul-solo of the Reid I did a couple of years ago - an ascent that used no prior knowledge, guidebook, or anything else except our judgement and equipment. I was taken to task for using that term, but whatever, it's still the most representative term for what happened. Without any information we walked up to the face, picked a line, and climb it. Arguing over semantics is stupid anyway, especially when we could argue about how much pole your mom smokes, ehh?

Backing off? Bullshit Chepe. I only back off when the 14th bolt is more than 3.5ft from the 13th bolt.

I don't care to know about your impotence problems, and I doubt Sisu would approve of you calling him "headmaster", which is the equivalent of knob-polisher, shaft-shiner, or schlong-sucker. Besides, I rope soloed the 35ft stairwell at the local college, using only the steps and handrail as aid. It was easily the boldest ascent of that section of stairs in at least five or six days.

First, get your facts straight dildo, I said it was a relentless crack, not "extreme". Yes, it's only .10c, but once the business starts, it doesn't let up until the belay - I call that relentless. [spraylord Chestbeater mode=on] Being that I onsighted it, with two wrecked middle finger tendons, it couldn't have been too "extreme" now could it? [sraylord Chestbeater mode=off]Besides that, moron, do you even know who Crazy Polish Bob is? See...you're not even in on the joke, you dumbshit. I've climbed Grade II 5.3, WI2, A0 on toprope, what about you?

No way dude, I make that stuff up on the spur of the moment. If I weren't so crude, you might call me witty.

I think this is so situation dependent that there is no real answer. If the belayer is a good ways from the wall, or the first piece is placed way off the deck...there's gonna be a lot of outward force. Think about it: the rope goes taut, effectively appplying the same force on both sides of the piece. However, the force is applied at an angle on both sides - between the bottom piece and the next piece on the top side, and between the bottom piece and the belayer on the bottom end. Remember vector components of force? A force at any direction in a plane can be translated to two perpendicular equivalent forces. An example: A 200lbf force fall (rope tension) is applied at 45 degrees on the first piece (say it's a steep roof). This is like applying a vertical (upward)force of 200/square root of 2 and horizontal (outward) force of the same magnitude. If the belayer is standing in a direct vertical line below the first piece and catches the climber, he is providing a vertical counter force of 200lbf / sq rt 2. Only in this case, the force is applied vertically so all the horizontal (outward) counterforce will have to be supplied by the piece itself. The relationship between the first and second piece will have a big influence on the direction of pull on the bottom piece. I've ripped the bottom piece before, and once the bottom two pieces, but there's always a cam or something else in the string of placements. Besides, the only time you have to worry about zippering pieces out is if the top piece is not solid. If you fall and the pieces go popping out, it's not likely that the piece you fell onto will come out since - your weight just hit it to keep it in place. It seems like passive pieces are usually the ones that zipper upwards. On multi-pitch stuff, you can sometimes just clip through the belay anhor as a first piece although rope drag will be hell if the pitch is not straight up. Having the belayer stand close to the wall will help alot, probably more than anything else you do. My $0.02

Dude, I didn't know Aaron was your brother. Is he setting up a beer stand this year? I mean, $0.50 is cheap for a beer. Will he still have ladie's night where bitches drink for free? Wonder if her ever got his merit badge for helping old ladies cross the street. And now, girls jumping on trampolines! YEAH!

My point wasn't that sport-climbing is lame (which it is, btw). Sport climbing should have one goal - getting your ass strong enough to go climb something real. My point WAS that this joint is going down faster than your teenaged sister on a Boone's binge in the backseat of the quarterback's Honda. Turn it into a trad vs sport argument if you want. I'll be out bouldering while you argue. BTW, I'm in the southeast for a section of the book I'm currently writing. And for you Dr. Newsflash I'malameass, I couldn't care less what you waste your time climbing. I'd rather that all you mindless cretins stay at the sport crags and away from my preferred venues. My point was that your writing about yourself in the third-person is a sad attempt to amuse. Well NEWSFLASH! It's annoying, not amusing. Flame on snapperhead.

Even though I'm rotting in the southeast, I still check in here once in a while. I've been asking myself lately "What the hell?" 1. Ray can't even make death threats without getting the post yanked? F*@&'in Lame! 2. This Dr. Flashing Anus: Why didn't this joker stay over at pussyboltclippers.com, or Smithsportos.com or whatever the hell that site was he used to frequent? The third-person writing is....you got it, F#$%&ing LAME. A typical example: "Dr. Felch Arectum feels that tossing salad is a prerequisite for a successful sport climbing weekend. The good doctor must consult with his man-bitch about this, but he feels it must be the case because he knows about these things." 3. Dru gets 2 stars? You gotta be kidding. He's probably the highest quality poster on the site and has beta when you need it regardless of how much he posts. At least TG and Texplorer were crazy enough to try the Yocum in the fall and give us all some material for second-hand fear. Flame me at will, I can take it. Here, I'll help you get started: "Will, you're just some hack dirtbag who has an inflated ego and can't climb for shit regardless of the posing you do to try to convince people otherwise." Get bent dickheads, Will

Yo homies, I'm rotting in the southeast, but should be heading to the four corners area for a few months in Feb or so. It sucks here, but at least the bouldering is good.

Everybody's got a favorite pizza joint...here's my in Chi-town: Gino's East. Ask any locals, it's the shiznit.

This is pretty sad actually because I failed on everything significant I got on. But, three moments stand out. The day I was probably climbing my best was bouldering in Camp4 when I finally floundered up the top-out of Don't Make Me Kick Your Ass (V-awkward)on the Columbia boulder. 10 ft of climbing, wow. Second moment was two days before the first. I ripped a hold and took a headfirst and backward dive out of the 3rd pitch chimney of Reeds Direct, slamming into the wall and tearing the connective tissue that runs between the ribs when my cams crunched between the wall and my back. Then I got back on the pitch and finished it. Third: After a 3 1/2 month layoff from climbing , and in absolutely perfect conditions (50degrees, dry) I managed to pull the sloper-fest Millipede problem at Horse Pens 40. They call it V7, felt like V5, but it's rare that Alabama has 10% humidity and 50 deg, it was like cheating, I also had exact beta from the FA who was standing next to me. I failed on everything else that I considered challenging including alpine, trad, wall, and bouldering.

Metolius Orange TCU to replace one that went missing and bring the rack back to

Chalk up (ah ha ha) another one for INTJs - I'm a f'in Mastermind

My projects: 1. Finish all the stuff that kicked my ass last year (that's alot of stuff and never gonna happen) 2. Stay healthy/injury free 3. The Shield 4. Heaven and Hell (multi pitch trad climb in Tallulah Gorge, GA with 45 degree overhanging hand crack crux pitch and runout vertical face first pitch). Proudest line in the state. 5. Get some photos published 6. Rostrum, South by Southwest, Stoner's Highway, Butterballs, Red Zinger, Biercheff-Williams 7. The best of them all...Astroman 8. Get the hell out of the southeast (although the bouldering rocks)

Not quite the end of the story DFA. The real motivation behind Pope's slip-cover idea? We know Pope once shit in his sleeping bag, but his fecal folly's don't end there. After plastering Dwayner's pad with splatter, and incurring the rage of the good Prof, the idea struck him in a flash of brilliance...poop the pad, no problem...just wash the cover. Right Poop...I mean Pope?

Why the moderators saw fit to remove my previous post, I have no idea.I'm after this pic for a friend who teaches wilderness medicine (WFR, WEMT) classes. So leave this damn post up please. Alright, I ask again: A pic has been posted here several times of a climber with an impaled ice axe through his abdomen. He's laying on a hospital bed, axe still in place. Can anyone point me toward a URL or other source? Thanks in advance.

Hey kids, A photo has been posted several times with a dude that impaled an ice axe through his gut. It shows him on a hospital table with the axe piercing his side. Can anyone point me toward a link or source for that pic? PLease PM, or e-mail me...I'm on the road and can't really follow the board closely. Thanks all, Will

Jim is another breed. Met him in the valley this summer after he finished up some new pitches on the Capt near Mescalito. If you know anything about the routes he put up in the Fishers (e.g. Death of American Democracy) you'd know his rep. He's really a soft-spoken, low key sort of dude, and tends to do most of his serious stuff solo. And this guy's serious stuff is SERIOUS. He was on that route in the valley for over a week if I remember right, and if you go up there for the 2nd ascent, don't plan on cheap-sticking into the fixed heads...the rumour mill has it that he duct-taped the head loops shut to prevent a cheap repeat.

Thought I'd let you folks know, The long out of print Mt. Analogue, by Rene' Daumal will be re-issued Nov 26. Barnes and Noble has pre-order going on now, but I suggest you buy it from somewhere else, BN's cut rate wholesale price (price they pay the publisher) cuts the authors' royalty rates as much as half (although Daumal is dead, so moot maybe in this case). The ISBN number is: 1585673420 if you want another store to oder it or something. Cheers

Yeah, go try Moby Dick Center and Sacherer Cracker, I hear they're the radness you're looking for. Full-on hyper sickness yo. There's this other sport route up in Tuolomne...the Bachar-Yerian...it's a great 5.11 sport route...yeah try that one.

Ahoy ya'll, Greetings from the land of cotton, sweet tea, and BFTs (big fuckin trucks). I'm looking for a little input from you, my cc bretheren, and I know there's plenty of opinion around here, so help me out. Couple of questions: 1. Who do you think have been the primary motivators/players in the NW bouldering scene. Not looking for simply the strongest fingers, but developers, guys and gals putting up stuff since the 70's, the folks out "discovering" new areas,etc. 2. Why that/those person(s)? Yeah, yeah...I know alot of you couldn't give a rip about the small stone, but I love it all so humour me.

And it rains alot too. Had my first foray into the wilds of Index climbing a few days ago. Climbed Rogers Corner? to Breakfast of Champs then the Godzilla to Slow Children with Dr Jay. Fun fun fun. Ran into Alpine K and Bronco too. Crank on ya'll I'm headed to the deep south for a few weeks to visit the fam then be back around the 25th for more NW fun. Georgia in July...what the hell am I thinking?

I need partners beginning mid week this coming week for the next few weeks. E-mail me at willstrickland2@hotmail.com. I'm a dirtbag so I need weekday partners too. Mountain biking too?Any takers?

Talkin about doin the homies proud...Texplorer was on a damn tear down there, knockin off stiff classics in style. Partner was not prepared experientially...did not get his skills in order beforehand. Still got to do some fun classics I'd never done. Anyway, partners...I NEED partners...where are all the slackers/students who have weekdays free??