willstrickland

Hmmm, at Rocky Butte last week it was raining pistachio shells and PBR tallboy cans. No chicken bones though, musta been vegetarians...

Reminds me of South Park: "CRIPPLE FIGHT!"

Aaron, Barrabes is the largest mountain gear shop in Europe. It is spanish, has a web site, and ships to the US. Even with import duties, things are drastically cheaper than buying from US or Canadian stores. The guy that posted about Barrabes wasn't trying to lowball you, he was being realistic. I'm sure you paid much more than you're asking since you bought it stateside, but he speaks the truth. It's not a well known thing though, and you'll likely find buyers at the price you're asking, just not on this particular site. FWIW, WS

quote: Originally posted by To The Top: I did it with my girlfriend in the Tetons last year, Nothing better, OK TTT, quit bragging

Trango Extreme's will take pure step-ins since they have a front lip for the bail. Trango Plus or LT will require a "Newmatic" type with a strap-basket kind of thing in front and a bail in the rear. Either way, with a boot that flexible you'll want a rigid frame crampon and make the back bail tension very tight otherwise you might flex the boot right off the crampon. FWIW, WS

Beacon has the same mystery tunnels on the south face. Mass graves for rap bolters?

But Dwayner, Were you naked in that tent? Big Lou would have been. You're right about the fame and advertising it. Anyone ever hear of Tait Rees? A Utah local, the guy freed Moonlight in one push...no falls, no "Yeah I freed it, redpointed the fourth pitch on the fifth try" stuff, just a start on the ground climb to the top without falling. There's a whole stack of folks in Utah that nobody's ever heard of that are climbing very hard stuff. Some 50 year old desert rats doing 5.12 trad routes in the desert onsight and even the Utah crowd hasn't heard of them. Some frenchy tradster in yosemite who would be a superstar in alot of scenes, onsighting Separate Reality, Astroman, the North Face of Rostrum, Alien, etc. Wanna get famous? Step by step guide: 1. Buddy up with a good photographer. 2. Rehearse on one hard sport route. 3. Get clean, bright clothes with prominent logos. 4. Wait till the light is perfect and get on the route. Shoot tons of film. 5. Submit the best pics to both the rags and the manufacturer's who's logos/shoes/etc you're sporting. 6. Now go bolt a ridiculously hard line somewhere remote. Make sure it's .14c or harder. 7. Aid up it to a high and scenic spot. 8. Shoot tons more film. 9. Submit to the rags again claiming a grade of 5.14 b/c or higher. 10. Say it's at a "secret" area. 11. Finally give directions to the crag to one strong climber when conditions are worst. 12. Revel in your new sponsorships/media worship.

quote: Originally posted by specialed: While some dogs are worse than others and can be territtorial and aggressive, a responsible dog owner should know that and take appropriate action. Its too bad if you or Dru has had bad experiences with dogs at the crags - but does one bad dog or their owner mean that every dog is bad? And what do you mean dogs should only be at home or on a leash. There are plenty of times when it is appropriate to let dogs run free. And even if you did bring your dog to the crag and tied them up, what's wrong with that? Gotta disagree on a few things. Responsible owner is the key word. The closest I've ever come to a fist fight at the crags was at the Manure Pile in Yosemite because of a dog. The pooch, tied up mind you, approached me on a long leash while I was retrieving my pack from the base of nutcracker. He was about three inches from my leg so I assumed he was friendly, lowered my hand slowly, open-palmed to let him sniff before I tried to pet him. Next thing I know my partner is saying "Dude, watch out he's a little pissed" and then I notice the fucker is bristling and baring teeth. As I withdraw my hand and step back he lunges at me and snaps at my hand. His owner then goes "oh, he seems friendly, but he's really not, don't mess with him". Uh, excuse me? Needless to say after about three seconds of thought (hmm it's illegal for this dog to be here, I didn't approach him, I'm trying to retrieve my pack so I can't avoid his "area", the owner never warned me or called his dog, owner never apologized), I launched a tirade. I'll spare you the details, but if he hadn't had a leader on belay at the time I would have been swinging...and I'm not an especially excitable guy. I love dogs, have owned three wonderful dogs that I loved with all my heart. I have also run into a couple of problems with dogs, mainly because the trails near crag bases are very narrow and the dogs are typically tied up right next to the trail. I've run across plenty of dog shit on crag trails, and I've seen at least four dog fights at crags. I think dogs should be allowed to run free, just not at the crag. There are crags where dogs are not a problem, but they seem to create issues. Most dogs are cool, but it only takes one...and most people think their own dog is cool regardless of reality. If you want to tie your dog up away from the trail so he can be outside, great, that's better than leaving him cooped up in the house. I don't currently own a dog because I feel it wouldn't be right to leave him at home during the day while I'm working and then leave him at home on the weekend because I'm traveling and climbing. It's not a whole lot different from having a child...been bitten by one of those little fuckers too

True dat! When I read that last week, I couldn't get my head around it. Un-freakin believable. Uber-athletes, and in a discipline that requires continued motor coordination. It's not like running where you can be exhausted and still stumble your ass onward. After reading Twight's latest rant book, that news clip, and running across an old article on ultra-marathon/100milers in the same week, my lazy ass has been training legs and cardio, all around strength. If I can't be suffering on the rock, might as well suffer on the bike, road, weight room, the forecast calls for PAIN!PAIN!PAAAAIIIINNNN!! Of course, I've aslso found that nine or ten pints of stout also elicit quite a bit of pain, and "where did that come from" soreness the next day.

Scott makes a good point about the flexibles. You'll be able to get a variety of use out of them, and they won't likely come off, but if the going gets steep enough to front-point, your calves will probably enjoy the rigids. Maybe an all-strap rigid would solve the problem (if anyone actually makes them). Wonder what those world cup ice dudes are using? I saw a pic that looked like they had on something barely beefier than a rock shoe and some funky looking crampons as well (with mono-heel points). Good luck.

I'm actually riding a regular board, so I don't get to skin-up, get to haul snowshoes instead. I've seen tons of folks in CO with the split boards though and it seems like the ticket. I'm riding regular Burton strap style bindings. My skills aren't good enough to be riding any crazy runs anyway (I grew up in Atlanta!). I'm usually glad to have the snowshoes in thick trees and deep powder.

quote: Originally posted by highclimb: CAn a 14 year old come too? so you might have to buy some coke or something... Aidan I think 14 is about legal in West Virginia and maybe even Mississippi, but find your own woman eh. As for the coming part, that depends on you having reached puberty my friend. And hey, a little young to be doing coke aren't you? God, should we even be allowed to cast influence on a young mind? Scary thought that is...

quote: Originally posted by tim: will... i'll meet up with you in P-town for the carpool Tim, check your private messages, WS

quote: Originally posted by erik: DEAN STEPH BOONE LEO HUBER Damn Erik, so close...only missed it by one, The correct list: Dean, Steph, Steven Jeffrey, Leo, Huber

Now I don't want to get off on a rant here but, Does ethical creep equal justification? Maybe the first ascentionist is on board with the sport climbing scene these days (purely conjecture on my part,I don't know). The point is this: People, like Kurt Smith for example, used to embrace the ground-up traditionalist ethic. Now, Kurt makes a living from developing a south of the border limestone area where virtually every route is a sport route. Would he be against retro-bolting, probably not. So, do the opinions of the "majority" of climbers, a "majority" which was weened into climbing on sport routes, a "majority" which embraced a style that was directly responsible for their participation in the first place, matter at all? To me, no they don't. It's ethical creep in the worst way. Mine is an elitist attitude for sure, but SO FUCKING WHAT! I fall off trad routes that I'd cruise if there was a line of shiny hangers, and I'm a better climber for it. Laugh if you want, but the only place this road is leading is to massive proliferation of bolts. Goddamnit, we're turning into the French! Asking the first ascentionist is one step (and I applaud anyone for taking that step), but far from the end of the line. "Hey Kurt, should I retro-bolt XYZ, tons of people will climb it and think you were the shit for leading it on gear, boost your rep and ego." Equally important should be the question "Can it be toproped?" If yes, then there is no question...DON'T BOLT IT. Some ballsy young developing trad climber lost a step in his/her progression because of those bolts. Should we care? Hell yes, because there aren't any damn bolt ladders sport pitches on the new challenges of the greater ranges and there shouldn't be. Want to learn to lead safely? Go to the gym, pre-place the gear, or get on something well below your limit PERIOD. Just my opinion, I could be wrong.....

Hey Cavey, Maybe instead of chopping them you could make some tags for the hangers that say: "Howdy ya fuckin pussy bolt clipper, grow a pair will ya?" or some other equally witty quip. Or maybe pull 'em and put some rusty-ass 1/4" stars and leeper hangers in there and see how many folks clip those. I say chop 'em though, only way to make the point really. Talk is cheap, chalk is cheap, and I'm cheap, but chop 'em and I'll buy ya a pint for your efforts, hell I'll sport you a pitcher if you chop 'em, Guiness work for ya?

What could I say that would matter at this point? Nothing. Chop 'em Caveman, even if they don't see the light eventually the transgressors will tire of spending money on bolts and drill bits. This wouldn't even be as issue if people still had to hand drill every bolt (as those of us who've done it will attest, even in sandstone it sucks) Should make the party fun though, people getting blindsided by bottles, drill bits in the back, crowbars upside the head. Rave on!

Well kids, you've almost played right into my hands...I actually have friends in Tacoma (unbelievable that I have friends, I know). Surely I'm not the only Portlander...anyone up for a carpool for this shindig?

quote: Originally posted by lisa: If strickland comes up from OR. he may have trouble finding any friends willing to let him crash, poor guy Well damn, I've already ostracized myself to the point that I'm not even welcome to pass out in the yard? Sheeeyyaaattt, I better start kissing some ass huh? And hey, what's with the no cans? I like to suck down a PBR or two between the bottles of Taddy Porter, keeps me semi-coherent. Besides, drunk climbers and glass (bottles that is) maybe aren't the best combination. I say a couple of kegs would be in order... [This message has been edited by willstrickland (edited 07-03-2001).]

Because she got a "real" job in addition to the boob job. A rep for the yuppie favorite, TNF.

Woo hoo, the name drop game. Let's try this: I'll leave a blank and you figure out who the famous climber is: 1. Smoked bowls with _____ at the slack line in Camp4. 2. Borrowed an extra #3 from ______ at Indian Creek. 3. Got beta on Phoney Baloney at Joe's Valley from standard setting boulderer ______ 4. Tried to ram a stick into the spokes of _____'s bicycle while he was on it. 5. Loaned _______ a trekking pole for a makeshift crutch. Hints: 1. Lunatic free soloer 2. American female 3. Salt Lake local 4. Brit 5. German Anyone who gets them all right on the first try will receive a special prize.

Kevlar, You won't be getting flamed by me, I would have done the same thing. Actually, if the bastard had known I was in a rockfall zone and getting hit and didn't MOVE HIS ASS I would have unroped from him right there. Guiding is one thing, you expect to babysit and take on full responsibility for your client. You also have autocratic control on all issues (especially safety). A team is another thing and if he (Judd) knowingly compromised your team's safety or lied to them because of his own shortcomings, then FUCK HIM, put him on his own and he can live (or die) from the consequences of his actions (lying to inflate his ego). Climbing was about self reliance once upon a time and ethics don't mean shit in a pine box. I've wanted the top in a bad way (first time on the Grand in '92) and deciding to descend was a bitter pill to swallow, it pretty much crushed my ego but it was the right decision as I was not fit enough to get up and back down fast enough to be safe. I can see how asking him to join you influenced your subsequent decisions. I'm sure as you didn't want to abandon him, but someone who refuses to go down can go up...and as Whillans said "..might be going higher than you think." That said, I don't wish harm on anyone, but we all die sooner or later and stupidity tends to accelerate the reaper's sickle. Bronco: Amazing restraint my friend. Anyone that I had taken on as a "charity case" that argued with my decisions over safety would likely get left behind or get a swift kick in the ass. I applaud you 'cause you're a better man than I. The guy was such a flake that I though you were making the story up at first.

So when you open the door I should just close your jaw straight away? Maybe plant an ice tool in your pencil neck? Or are you gonna have the Battle Cage on Hand?

I did it in one rap, and you're absolutely right about using the other rap station for two raps on a 50m. The station is only maybe 12ft down from the main one. Looking up the route from the upper saddle it's a little down and to the right of the main station. As far as crowded routes go, the Exum and OS are the most crowded climbing routes I've ever been on (I counted 11 parties on the lower Exum one day while chillin on the saddle and several of those were 3 person teams with no simul-climbing or even both seconds climbing at the same time). You are highly unlikely to see crowds on the North side though, and even if you did (maybe a busload of euros show up or something) there are several variations like the Italian Cracks and American Cracks to get you around them. As a side note, if you get to the upper saddle intent on doing the OS and there's a throng ahead of you, there's an easy handcrack right in the landing zone of the rappel. It's maybe 5.7, and puts you on the catwalk and within a short scramble of the summit. I think the crack is named, but don't remember...Sandwich crack maybe?

You can get off with a 50m, you'll just have to rap twice.