rat
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Everything posted by rat
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you professionals are so needy: dave cheesmond's north twin crack gloves. photo by barry blanchard during this insignificant little jaunt http://www.barryblanchard.ca/northtwin
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send me a pm with a description of the shoes and i will drop them in the mail. or, you can retrieve them in seattle.
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an unsupported single-push traverse of the boundary: http://www.internationalboundarycommission.org/index-eng.html
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first ascent [TR] Bonanza Peak, Washington - FA: The Oregonian Route 9/4/2013
rat replied to SethKL's topic in North Cascades
top shelf. -
Robin Lakes & Granite Mountain (near Mt. Daniel)
rat replied to CaleHoopes's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
if you haven't found these already... granite peak tr: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/590503/Re_TR_south_peak_of_granite_mo#Post590503 nwmj entry (page 5): http://www.mountaineers.org/nwmj/07/071_Shorts5.html dan and various partners have been doing routes on the nearby towers over the last couple summers. sorry, i don't have more detailed info than that. -
first ascent [TR] North Hozomeen Mtn - Zorro Face, IV 5.9 8/31/2013
rat replied to lunger's topic in North Cascades
mildly hyperbolic but atrocilicious climbing nonetheless. those are grimaces, not smiles. for the record, we took a bolt kit with about ten 1/4"ers. it was dead weight "courage in the bottom of the rucksack". the existing bolt looked much newer than 1980's but did have a smc hanger. maybe a canadian attempt? -
stanton and cappellini did a fair amount of adventure climbing in that area post-fire. dan and i added a good route up what he called "the coyote" (because you can look over at the rabbit ears) that included an improbably moderate pitch up a spectacular arete near the top. i think the coyote might be the last major tower on the ridge above big dome but am unsure without a photo. lots of potential up there. thanks for the tr.
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thanks for the info, sarge. i vaguely recall retrosaurus (an okanagon native, so to speak, and former poster) mentioning it to me. i figured there must be a lot of private land up there but thought i would troll for some info nonetheless.
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i advocate "curb stomping" though it might be less politically correct. your abilities (and luck) take precedent over your pro. good luck.
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[TR] Trinity Alps - easy scramble 4/18/2013
rat replied to bedellympian's topic in The rest of the US and International.
wonderful. there is supposedly some granite tower climbing back there (rock 'n road hearsay).....see any? gotta be a little more solid than castle crags being farther from the contact? -
rumor is there is a bit of climbing there. anyone okanagan locals or others have some info they would like to share with the class? thanks.
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thanks for the info, bob. climbing isn't safe and anyone who thinks so is a dumbfuck. got any stories about climbing grass in poland? seriously, i'm intrigued. regarding the supremacy of "american made": smc and leeper don't get off easily. and the aluminum clip'emeveryfuckingtime pop-top hangers? the odds are against you, now and in your limited future.
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muy pinche bueno.
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a few parking options: 1. 1-2 spots are usually plowed out on the north side of the hwy near the gun tower. this is quite a ways east of the henry creek road. expect to get plowed in if it is snowing. 2. traveling westbound on hwy 2, there is an easy-to-miss road on the north side just west of the tunnel itself. this road is plowed and used by the rr for access to the east portal. while i never had any problems parking there the situation may have changed. 3. nordic center as the last option.
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not to put too positive a spin on it.... east face of the mighty toof on 12/5: http://www.turns-all-year.com/skiing_snowboarding/trip_reports/index.php?topic=26357.0 john's comment regarding source lake in late november: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1090961/2012_13_Washington_Ice_Conditi#Post1090961 i imagine you could find something to climb using varying amounts of imagination, wallowing and care.
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does anyone have first hand info they would like to share regarding current skiing conditions in the trinity alps (canyon creek, grizzly lake and/or surrounding peaks)? thanks.
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marko employing impeccable leashless style on what else but da toof.
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the route has some good climbing but i would recommend jumping on it soon. the route still harbors some semi-loose blocks and dirt/lichen. without traffic, the witch doctor will quickly reclaim it. the fresh rock scar is a shortly left of the third pitch anchor. all the rap stations survived. i cleaned the offensive baubles near your rap gear. lunger has your gear and will contact you soon. thanks for your efforts dave, et al.
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Has anyone climbed the Scar face on Goose Egg
rat replied to rockyroad's topic in Central/Eastern Washington
http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1015077/tieton_scar_face_at_the_egg#Post1015077 -
an appropriately hyperbolic donkey douche description of a classic northwest pile. definitely a fine day of immersion. we were a little over 6hr on the route itself so grade III in my bickering opinion. probably IV if you pitch some of it out and/or directly climb the 2 steps we easily skirted due to concerns about time and forecasted incoming wx.
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[TR] Cashmere Mountain consolation - North Ridge 7/19/2012
rat replied to Le Piston's topic in Alpine Lakes
it was the south face. my mistake. the route we climbed started with a left trending crack from the base of the major rib in the center-right of your photo. -
[TR] Cashmere Mountain consolation - North Ridge 7/19/2012
rat replied to Le Piston's topic in Alpine Lakes
nice. cashmere also has little-known technical route up the central rib of the east south face (fa gordon briody and partner). marko and i repeated it recently and found 2 pitches of 5.9ish crack climbing (perhaps easier to the right, lots of variations possible) leading from the lowest point of the face to the crest of the rib. a couple long simul-sections of 4th-low 5th then lead almost directly to the summit. it has suprisingly good rock but will probably never become popular. -
[TR] Icicle Canyon: Hook/Rat Creek - Blockhouse West Face 7/14/2012
rat replied to telemarker's topic in Alpine Lakes
much easier to approach from a col between the blockhouse and the hook -- no raps, minimal sketch.