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Everything posted by plexus
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Damn you and your "Where's Waldo?" game!! I finally spotted the damn bear. =)
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Always bring moleskin. Touching what eldiente wrote, I find I always bring my Mountain Hardware shell and my Cloudveil rain pants when in the alpine. The wind-breaking power of the two saves me from bringing heavier and bulkier layers when needed for unplanned nights and/or when weather changes. After almost getting fried by lightning a couple weeks ago, I highly suggest always keep checking the sky. And while you feel like a pussy turning back because the skies are ominous, I don't think I'd have an issue the next time that happens. Be optimistic and be a good partner. Nobody wants to be with a nay-sayer or a complainer for a very long day.
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...and then there are the times that Ivan makes you say, "Right on!"
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Funny how plans change. Still recovering from DNC coverage here. Saturday, chores, trail ran with climbing slippers in hand, run for a mile, climb something, run again, climb something. Good day. Sat night: partying. Sunday felt lethargic and scraped my backpacking plans. Thirty mile bike ride instead. Sunday night: drinks with the guys. Monday: Got up early and saw too much cloud cover to make me feel comfy doing a technical ridge route - especially after nearly getting zapped by lightning last weekend. So coffee and mtn bike ride. BBQ later this evening.
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Thanks for the memories. Kindy Ridge was one of my favorite nights camping.
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[TR] Mt. Fury East Peak Single Push - 8/5/2008
plexus replied to off_the_hook's topic in North Cascades
Awesome! Hell of an accomplishment given the taxing nature of the area. -
Tits up Craig. I mean all of us have been scared shitless in the mountains one time or another, but you took it to a new level. I'm impressed you kept your composure and finished the climb. I have a friend who has colitis and it is not something you can truly get a grasp on. And Mr DPS, whenever I'm on the trail and somebody doesn't acknowledge the greeting or good will behind it, I decide that person just isn't worth getting upset about. Some people just possess grumpy dispositions and if being out in beautiful areas or recreating can't shake them free of that, then well, they're always going to be grumpy.
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My deepest condolences to the man. The worst scenario any spouse could face.
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[TR] The Moxes, Custer & Rahm, Spickard - Standards 7/21/2008
plexus replied to tvashtarkatena's topic in North Cascades
Tvash, I don't know whether to hate you, envy you or just buy you a beer. Your TRs are the best I have seen as far as inspiring fellow climbers with their simplicity and the wonderful photography. I'll remember that the next time I'm waking up before dawn with a hangover trying to get myself killed on yet another mountain. =) -
I missed it the first time I ever went up there. Went to the road end, followed flagging, did some serious tree pulling and scrambling before it started raining and we all felt like idiots. Follow Bug's directions and you will be fine. Trust me, if you have to use your hands and are trying to tell you that what you are is a trail, you're not on it.
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I've got Cloudveil Zorros and I use them often for spring alpine climbs and backcountry skiing. Weigh next to nothing and I have absolutely no complaints about them. The breathability is wonderful with them. I'm never wet on the inside even during full exertion.
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[TR] Hozomeen North Peak - SW Buttress Attempt 6/29/2008
plexus replied to G-spotter's topic in North Cascades
You mean a rack of BIG nuts. Hats off to you Dru, that's a mighty big & scary endeavor you guys took on. After reading Beckey's "Challenge of the North Cascades" the description gave me pucker factor sitting on the couch. -
I remember finding the approach being much, much tougher than the actual climb, especially with overnight packs. But God what a gorgeous area, especially camping on the ridge.
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We sent one of my reporters to talk with her sister. They are going to give her bras every year on June 19th from now on.
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If anything, soloing makes me more humble and reminds me how small I am on this 3-400 foot climb. I think many climbers would agree it's much more of an internal challenge than anything else.
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Funny thing is I can never "plan" on going soloing, it is always a spontaneous thing when I am out bouldering someplace like the Flatirons, or other places.
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At 14,000 feet too. Many visitors forget to take that into account.
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In the words of Darth Vader: "Impressive. Most impressive." Lots of exposure with deteriorating snow.... makes you feel alive and mortal, don't it?! Beautiful climb and sounds like you had the perfect partner, somebody who embraced and was motivated by the challenge as opposed to being spooked by it.
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Last Saturday was glissading down from the saddle of Grays and Torreys here. Was steeper than I thought it would be and picked up some pretty good speed. Digging the boots in and pushing more on the shaft of the ice axe didn't retard my speed at all as I saw some rocks coming close. I casually rolled over and started to arrest - which isn't all that effective when you're riding a large cushion of softening snow. Casted a glance down and saw the rocks were now indeed close. Did it with more earnest and came to a stop about 20 feet above the skin-removers. Whoever said it above, self-arresting on softening snow this time of year can almost be futile. That's been a majority of the time in having to pray to the mountain gods. Was prepared to roll to the climber's left if I couldn't slow down any. And glissading while still wearing crampons is just lunacy. I'd rather take the extra time to remove them and then put them back on.
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The climb next to Cat Crack on Neat n Cool. BD #9 nut, fell about 20 feet cuz I was feeling confident and near the top. First fall and having a piece POP, was Index, two pieces popped and I was saved from grounding head-first (got tangled in the rope) by a brass nut. I still have that nut and carry it all the time on my rack.
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Here's the latest that has crossed the wires at my work: Kinzer says a helicopter is standing by to bring the hikers off the mountain, but officials are waiting for the weather to break. After a winter of heavy snowfall that forced repeated closure of mountain passes, unseasonably cold conditions have continued long into spring in Washington's Cascade Range. Bacher says Paradise received 2 feet of fresh snow overnight, with 5-foot drifts at Camp Muir. Bacher says the three hikers were all experienced in the outdoors, and two had reached the summit of Rainier previously. Bacher says three doctors were at Camp Muir with the two remaining hikers, who are suffering from frostbite and hypothermia. Both were in stable condition. Bacher says the third hiker had been unconscious before dying at Camp Muir.
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There is some nice stuff in the Gore Range, shorter but steeper. And yes, from a mountaineering perspective, a lot of the stuff here is boring. But you make do with what you gots. Tried downloading pics of the skiers on Torreys but the system didn't like me. You can view them by following the link to my sig.
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Yikes! Glad you guys got down safely. I've dislodged a couple of near-widowmakers and those shook me up almost as much as it did the person it almost plunked.