plexus

Nice!! That indeed must be some stellar climbing to make you forget about the shwack.

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP20/newswire-gunrunner-cascades-herrington

It's wilderness area, meaning it's illegal to bolt.

I think the multiple usage of the words "rotten" and "bushy" is a reason why it hasn't seen so much traffic, especially with "classics" right on the same wall. I however seem to have an affinity to such routes - the path less taken mentality. It isn't climbing unless you come back with some shrubbery scratches on ya. Did you guys rap the route or is there a way to escape left?

Looks purdy fun!!

I'm with you there. When I first started reading the post, I was sharpening my pitchfork and lighting my torch. Sacrilege to bash the CAGs!

So last Monday while visiting family in Chicago, I figured I had to take advantage of living in high altitude and going down to 300 feet elevation. So I went jogging, which is not out of the ordinary for me. However about two houses down I landed with my left foot and felt a pop in the middle of my back. The muscles in that area started tensing and it hurt for the rest of the day. I know that playing with my 2-year-old niece probably didn't help it and the next morning when I went to shut off the alarm clock, my entire back stiffened up. It's six days later and it still feels like I have a knife embedded in there to the left of my spine and above where your lats meet your lower back. I've been stretching quite a bit and yes, slowly I'm having less pain and more movement. The odd thing is when I get on my climbing wall, it doesn't hurt doing campusing, but more if I twist my hips. The not being active is absolutely killing me. I've downgraded weekend plans from a 15-mile, 2-peak backpacking trip, to the Kelso Ridge on Torreys, to me typing this on the computer today. Is this just me getting older and needing more time to heal or what? I'm trying to see a chiropractor on Monday.

Great read!! Great pictures! Great humour!! Nice climbs! And I think I'll skip Storm King in the future, doesn't sound like too much fun. How many miles and elevation do you think you guys did?

Looking at the photos you took, I don't think your trip was a failure. You just reassessed your objective, that's all.

New York Times just ran a story today about the incident.

Work your way back up to it. The rock isn't going anywhere. Have a good weekend at the pass, jump on some easier things like Beckey on Liberty Bell and Concord Tower, assess how you did and feel and if you're up to it, get it the next day.

If the thought of the cams ever dislodging the boulders ever came into my head, I wouldn't be building an anchor there. It's just that simple. I've built some questionable anchors, like most people here, but would never build one in or around building blocks that I think could topple on top/around/beneath me. I'd rather trust myself and my partner to a bomber nut in a crack than what you're describing. As for which I prefer using to build an anchor - I'll re-voice what has already been said, whatever I have left and what will be needed on the pitch above. My leading philosphy is to use passive pro whenever possible. I keep cams for when I am sketched on tougher terrain and I want to minimalize the time spent slotting pro.

I've burnt both retinas before climbing Goat Peak. Forgot my sunglasses, squinted most of the day to try to limit the damage without avail. My left eye worst than my right one so it is possible. I was in agony for three days (ask my wife). It will pass after time and ever since that day, I have always carried an extra pair of sunglasses in my glove compartment. I also have had very mild snow blindness from doing Anderson Butte in similar conditions you are talking about. Last about a day. Trust me I will take snow blindness over burnt eyeballs any day of any year of any millenium.

But were the goats starting to look good on the way back to the pass?! Once you go mutton, you'll never stop stuffin!! I've had the same ghost experience on Ingalls and must say it was quite nice to go at my pace and not have to worry about gumbies dropping stuff on my head.

Still getting over bronchitis. Thunderstorms, which I'm finding out are not fun here in the Rockies at 11,000 feet, cancelled my overnight trip. As a consolation prize, went bouldering the past two days - Castlewood Canyon & 3 Sisters. Still have absolutely no energy and find myself shutting down long before my arms get pumped out. Looking back, probably a good thing I didn't try to do a double peak in the Gore Range. I HATE GETTING SICK IN THE SUMMERTIME!!!!

Read all about their exploits - sans the Denali sheep - here: http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/denalidiamond/

Amen to that!!

Absolutely awesome!!

:noway: Wow!! That friggin sucks. I'm glad they are both OK and it was a clean fall. Damn!! Never seen a full-on zippering out and hope I never do.

Hope it's only an ankle fracture he suffered.

It's a lovefest all around. I like the summit picture denoting the happiness and the fatigue. Sounds like you did the route in style. After all, you never know when you'll gt a chance to get back on it.

That's very cool and probably worth more to you than some heirloom china. I have a journal my grandfather kept in WWII. I could care less about the case of silver or what ever knicknack that comes my way. The leather book is a way for me to reconnect with my family's past.

I can't wait to read the whole blow-by-blow. Between boxing-glove mittens and the homo-hudler, how can't it be a great read? Congratulations on the climb Colin. And people were beginning to think Alaska was climbed out! Psssh!

The FA owner does have the right to add protection if he wants. I too laud him for bringing this up for discussion. I say go up there with one of your closest climbing partners, have them lead it and ask their opinion. I think though that if you did add a bolt or two, you might regret it later on because it could spoil your previous accomplishment. Think about it, try it again, wait till the end of the summer before making a decision.

A big hell yes on that. There are a few climbs in Squamish that are a lot more shiny now. Same with Bastille Crack in Eldo. I've led it once and don't have to do it again. That gaston off the flake was scary stuff on that buffed stuff. Even Becky Route on Liberty Bell is a little "used" in places.