Jens

We know when we are climbing up on mounties by the sound of their hexes clanging. We call em' mountaineers org bear bells.

Awesome!

I have switched back to the thicker nylon or nylon/dyneema hybrid slings after using the uber skinny dyneema (mammut etc.) slings for about five years. The skinny ones wear out super fast and have had a lot of reports of breaking. If you hold a wad of dyneema slings and compare the weight to a wad of nylon sewn slings, the weight is pretty close to the same- almost the same as an empty gu wrapper. If you ice climb or alpine climb, the dry times are about the same. If you rock climb harder routes, you leave these fixed for months and want them tough (you want the thicker nylon ones).

Partner found.

My climbing plans for Saturday with friends just fell through a few minutes ago because of a forecast for rain- even east of the mts.. Does anyone want to fart around on some routes near North Bend on Saturday that stay dry (cave like stuff)? I've got evening plans so I'm looking to get out for about 6-8 hours max. How about the actual cave above Amazonia? I'd even make an expedition to the mythical North Fork Cave although I haven't been there in 15 years and my memory of finding the place could be bad. I could even be talked into going to WW1 to climb what little bit will be dry. -Bring your gore-tex or umbrella. We could build a campfire at the north fork or actual cave. I don't care how hard you climb as long as you are well versed in sport belaying and are cool with the fact that their aren't any really any dry 5.10 routes at these venues.

That is a deal! The ergo is easier to hang off of when pumped than the nomic!

Will the new quark picks work with the old quarks and quark ergos (I use both) or do I need to stock up on like 20 of the old picks before they are discontinued?

Ski Mountaineering and slogging Volcanoes is your best cure. Wrap the rock shoes up in ziploc bags and put away the fruit boots and ice tools.

Nice! I tried the route about 15+ years ago and got spanked pretty bad.

Great TR. I wish I was along!

Hey, you got a close up view of the second wildest aspect in the cascade range and some fresh air to boot. I went in on a Nooksack Tower route attempt many years ago and a new partner I had never climbed with got "sick" right about the same spot where you bivied. We slogged out. He bought me lunch, filled up my gas tank and all was good.

I've seen em' ridden in a long ways up the approach to the North Side of Stuart. I seen em' used to get in toward half dome in Yosemite.

I heel hook with my right leg.

Did you run into any of the yellow jacket nests in the woods right below timberline?

Buy cheap, buy often. Buy 70m, Don't buy anything larger than 9.9mm. I've seen 70m dry ropes for 130 bucks with no tax and shipping- that is almost as good as pro deal. You need five ropes. a shortie rando cord for Cascade bumbling and glaciers a 70-80m slim free climbing cord double 60-70m ice lines a fat big wall cord and for taking noobs free climbing and dogging a static line for fixing and opening new routes.

Thanks Jiri for the good time. To any out of town climbers visiting on a trip, you really can't go wrong with any of the six Cascade Range routes that were selected for the "50 Classic Climbs of North America" they are all some of the best in the range. It would be cool for someone to solo all six in six consecutive days. Maybe next year....

Black Troisieme by Grivel, Marteau Fox by Simond, P'tit Loop by Charlet (I think they make a hammer and an adze

Any tips for me on ventilation? I always get sick when I try to cook inside my tent, but my partners are fine.

Hopefully you guys aren't our version of the Russians on the Dru.

I've always wanted a fixed rap line down, slightly climber's left of outer space. I think it would be nice. I can guarantee that if a fixed series of stations existed, any serious alpinist or wall rat could rap the wall with a single 50m rope faster than even "Dan Howwit" could jog down the standard descent.

What is the scouting report on the bugs right now? I was up not to long ago and they were manageable (perhaps it was just the light winds).

Good times. Jiri's potato chips were the hit!

I read about another base jumping accident on Mt. Baring this morning. The last fatality was a week ago. Dangerous sports are what we all do and love and I support them all the way as those who've climbed with me will attest to. The only thing that strikes me as odd was that I when I climbed with a fairly serious base jumper a while back, he told me that their were only approximately a dozen folks in Washington that are really into jumping. I'm sure the number of jumpers is a bit higher now, but with about one accident or fatality every two months for a dozen or so folks, the stats make a World War 1 trench charge with a blindfold on look like a trip to the spa. .....Or is it just that the European and Yosemite Jumpers that I've both witnessed are much more skilled than our local hometown talent? ....... A different sport but the paragliders I've seen in the Alps put our hometown talent to shame and the winds at the launch sites in the Alps can be insane for base and para. I will admit I know almost nothing about base jumping and sound like one of the ranters on the news websites.

Yet another Index route with a laughable rating....

I would second that Trifecta.