Jens

I find it really lame that people take these things. Sadly, for a while several rangers in various districts and National Parks were taking them. Thankfully I believe they've stopped this practice.

Totally off topic, but Simond steel is the best. Apparently they get the pick of the litter from the stock before the petzl folks? (3rd hand info). I guess that makes Charlet the 2nd best. Grivel steel smears and bites fairly well but is inferior in my humble opinion.

I like your spirit. I ventured above camp Muir at age 9 with a homemade harness, kmart boots, and an ace hardware rope. One of the best alpinists I've ever climbed with tried to rent a harness as a kid and instead made a Swiss seat. My dad bought me a Forrest swami and I was off to the races. I've seen harness rentals in Chamonix but never rope rentals.

Nice! I love that mountain! Way to sport the Millet pack.

How about a sting for Squamish and Index next?

11d....

They have the brand new edelrid ropes out for sale now (60meter length same diameter) for around a 100 bucks (free tax and shipping) see the hot rope deal thread from Bill on this site.

Not probably relevant, but I was their about two weeks ago and we got snowed one every day. Many of the routes were rimed up and required chopping ice out of cracks to get cams to stick.

I also remember reading mountain magazine (93?) with the article about all the new multi pitch sport routes at index upper town at "modest grades". I promptly headed up and ate some humble pie to say the least and scurried home with my tail between my legs. I love index and not that rock climbing is about numbers, but I would have to say index has the stoutest ratings of the 35 US states I've climbed in. Many of the easier routes at areas like the Gunks, etc. are super sandbagged but the higher grades are actually soft compared to out west.

Anyone have the low down on boat rentals over at Banks for some deep water solo action?

Fossil Rocks!

Not the one on the ground. Our topo was to come in from the left near "12 angry bees?". I didn't even know their was a pitch proper off the deck. I guess I should have looked at the guidebook better

Wayne, go do it. You are solid on bad rock and ice. When Loren and I climbed it, we knew the serracs could calf off at any time. What I didn't expect was the amount of rockfall that we encountered. Stones were whizzing by constantly. I went because I had to cancel my Eiger trip previously and wanted a buzz. Thermogenesis is certainly a pure line but it is not as steep as the rest of the wall and involves no rock climbing. I'd ski it but my wife would kill me.

one hanged it on an onsight attempt about 15 years ago.

Is anyone else still waiting for their grigri2 to replace the recalled one? I mailed in my recalled one in over a month ago and still haven't received a replacement or heard anything from the Utah folks. I have emailed them about it.

Looks like you guys were right of the crux pitches.

If I was in town, I'd hit this for sure. Definitely one of the more interesting sounding slideshows I've seen advertised in a while after a lot of yawners over the last few years.

Speaking of Monte Cristo, would one of the lucky 6,000 people that have keys to gate pm me to get a copy made? I will give you a reward.

I'd be keen to see a conditions report for this time of year. It gets all the action in the fall, but in the right conditions, it could be quite good right now.

I feel for everyone involved. The wind yesterday at my house was absolutely whipping. In good weather it is actually really fast and quick to get to the Schrund on Liberty Ridge from above and doesn't prove to be crazy terrain. Sadly as we all know, when the big hill turns ugly, any route can kill. I hope he is ok and that he didn't slide down the Thermogenesis sector of Willis Wall.

Did one dogging recon on it a long time ago. It would be cool to see this crag undergo a renaissance. It is quite good.

Here are my favs for different situations DMM revolvers (locking ones for stick clips, non locking for the rest). Simond Goliath keeper lockers (a unique patent) Camp Nanos Metolius minis Spainsh Bentgate wiregates Petzl Notchless Ovals Petzl Spirits

Sweet post!

It would be a great time! You can ski/ride all the way to the car right now.

Love that route!