Jens

I lived in Ellensburg for four years and went to smith a LOT. I have lived in the puget sound area the rest of my life. The choice all comes down to what time of day and what day of the week it is. If it is a time and day with not a lot of traffic, I-5 is definitely quicker even if you speed on the I-90/ goldendale way. If it is a high traffic or volume time, the i-5 way is slower. As for which is a prettier drive, Most likely the I-90 way. Most people doing the weekly smith shuffle for their same 5.whatever project week after week, month after month probably don't get a rise out of getting real close to hood, so they would prefer the grassy plains of the i-90 route. P.S.: I have to throw this rant in-- read if you wish: Smith is an awesome area and sport climbing is way cool but why do you see some of the same Seattle people "rehearsing" their same project for months, or even year after year? Redpointing is a fine art, and it is cool if you are making progress towards finishing the route but give me a break. I'm not even talking about routes of extreme difficulty. I am a Washingtonian. The Oregon folks seem to be better at moving on or progressing than us.Perhaps I should have put this in the "spray" section.

What abot the 100% pure lycra spandex, yellow, La Sportiva climbing on the moon, Allan Watts style tights- So shiny that they glare? Pope must have been pirchased his pair in Boulder, CO.

I love ice climbing at Lillooet, but I have to ask? How many people have stories abou run-in's, confrontations, or fights that have occured at any of the drinking establishments? I have had two different climbing partners that have gotten into confrontations with locals on different occasions. One night while I was sleeping, someone was thrown through the window of the downstairs bar- Glass everywhere. Some of these drunken locals have some attitude. I'm not bashing on any of the establishments. Having some "Canadian" on tap and watching hockey on the TV's one channel are as much fun as the great climbing,

Hey that place used to be a Fred Flinstone theme park. It was pretty cool. Those smiley screw suck. They are way harder to crank in that the BD's

In my humble opinion, pull-ups are way overrated. David Graham is arguably one of the most powerful sport climbers on the planet and he admits that he can't do a one arem pull up or nearly as many regular pull-ups as some of his belay partners. Even on the ice, they are overrated. Try developing the coordination of the precise moment of upward movement by using your momentum whether pulling plastic or using your ice tools. I've seen people that can do one armers fall of 5.10's and people who couldn't do 10 pull ups who could climb 5.13. Just my two cents.

It has probalby been 12 years since I've seen Fairweather but didn't it have some REALLY cool out there music at the end? --- When they are showing a sunset and reflecting on the tragedy of the lost climbers.

Forgive me for I have sinned. I'm coming clean. *I sometimes sport climb in green pair of peter pan tights from Nordstrom's Brass Plum. I had my wife go into the section with me. *I have been known to log some hot tub time at many Leavenworth establishments after a day of cragging or ice climbing and even poach towells "I'm in room uh...uh....28". *I lied to ranger once. *Wore 8000 meter mits, down suit, overboots, headlamp, and crap to opening night of Vertical Limit at the cinerama.. Just kidding.

Long time no see Mike.

Both "trads" and "sport climbers" have pros and cons. Something to note: the new "rads" don't seem to be tying in much these days. A friend of mine in CO says that rifle is pleasant these days No attidtudes, screams of obscenties after blowing 100th redpoint attempt, and best of all no crowds. These types are all out bouldering. Trads: (my stereotypes here people) *Seem to be having more fun. *lack the vision to reach an awesome goal. *are often to much of a wussy to fall on bomber gear on steep rock- It holds them back. *Are fun to road trip and party with. Sportos (my stereotypes again) *Set goals and reach them. *Aren't as fun to road trip or party with. *Are usuall better atheltes before they got into climbing. (wrestling, gymnastics, dance, ballet, kick boxing etc.) *Not as fun to talk with (all they talk about is the beta to their latest project).

Climb any of the NE face routes instead. Why the NE butress seems to be so popular in the last several years or so is beyond me-- NE butt has lots of brush, trees, running water etc. Even if you were to climb on or near the NE butt in winter I would imagine that all the big trees would cut way down on the commitment. You could make a bonfire on top of some tin foil and make a shelter, and if you got scared, just start rappin' off big trees. NE face routes are steeper, cleaner, and devoid of vegetation. As for descents, I have come down the south face, the east ridge, and part of the west side. The east ridge is the best although right now some of the moats in the Johannesberg/Cascade couloir are prtetty wide. I once started descending to the West but found the rock to be even worse than the stuff around the summit. J-Berg is an odd mountain. It can let you have quick and easy passage or it can scare the shit out you and throw epic at you big time.

I would have to agree with phil on the NE face of Eldo being more of a variation. I climbed it about a week and half ago. It is in fine shape, but for those looking for an "ice climb" you may want to look elsewhere. We did climb a short overhanging wall on crevasse just to save some traversing and to not feel like losers for humping a bunch of extra gear up to the route.

Bouldering and bouldering guides are cool but........A lot of people have been bouldering at a high standard in lots of areas of the high country for a least a decade now. Yes- hard problems have been done at Ingalls lake, yes- hard problems have been done in the enchantments. Whether it has been a rock jock who packs his slippers and chalk while taking a significant other on a backpacking trip or several alpinist/rock jocks wondering away from basecamp. I'm not taking anything away from the latest crop-- some of them crank hard on the boulders and have good power. It would be wrong to list "first ascents" that were just done by many of the pad toters in any new guidebook. Stuff has been done up in the mountains up to about V7 in my best judgement. So if any of you reading this are thinking about someday writing a guidebook to bouldering areas in popular cascade mountaineering areas (or anywhere in WA) they are most likely not firsts ascents. This may be more true for all over the state than you may think. We've had C4 rubber for a long time now. Power training methods have remained about the same.

Have the locals made a drive-in route to bypass the gate that blocks access to the Monte cristo area, or is there just a lot of bootleg keys out there? When I climbed E. Willman's, on the way out tons of locals had cars very close to monte cristo. Were talkin' little cars too. They were out beer drinkin' and picknincing. The gate was locked when I went in and rode out.

Some more sandbags: Thin redline--pitch 1 Carnival Crack in Leavenworth. Harder than 5.11ow's or squeezes in Yosemite or Squamish that I've lead.(and I like shoving my lame wretched carcass into the wide stuff). Swim- Index. Also- most of the sport routes at the upper town wall have been lost to the black lichen these daysand are harder then they once were. Nobody wants to do the same crimp for every hold on 85 degree slabs.

I've done both descents I think that the East ledges descent is definitely faster but is more nerve wracking. Plus once you are done and hit snow It is way fast. So decide what your priorities are.

Give yourself lots of time to get off the thing. It took us longer to get down than to get from the car to the summit.

We did it about 3 weeks ago. No snow was found on the route except for about a 30 yard crossing of an upper lobe of a glacier. It is a good way to get away from the crowds and circus found on the Sahale summit. Leave all your gear at the col and come back to the col when you are done. The route is 4rth class. The rock quality is poor, but hey what's new?

Did the route in 98'. The approach was a schwack! We went in from low on the Cascade river Road. Perhaps it would be easier to go from Cascade pass. Bring one axe, and crampons. Let us know what way you go in.

As of right now, many Coleman Headwall Parties and North rige parties are leaving from camp low However, the quickest way to go is definitely high and traverse over as previously mentioned. Don't get suckered by all the boot tracks. There are a few sets of tracks high though. We just climbed the North Ridge. Last August when we climbed the Coleman Headwall, we did a ton of stupid gerrymandering trying to get to the headwall. Have fun.

If anyone goes up there it would be great if they could post specifics and the approach of the Burdo sport route that was mentioned in Rock and Ice. Also is their really a band of Dolomite on it? If so, it would be way cool.

The route was well marked with cairns as of about 3 weeks ago, However I was using the route for a descent and the markers can be trickier to spot on the way up.

The summit ridge area of Johannesburg is pretty bad stuff. The volcanoes are pretty bad also. As for WA '"destination" crag areas, Vantage is the worst. Many of the climbs we did there in the early 90's are way different then they are now. And despite what some may say, the choss out at Vantage has and never will support a legit' 5.13. If temporarily 13, rehearsal sessions, will yield enough "new holds" to become 12. This will apply forever.

Sleep in your own bed. And catch a Latte' on the way. As of right now, the low snow year if anything makes the approach quicker up the red creek slabs. We left our car at 6:10am Sat and climbed the standard Sharkfin route, the 5.10 Sharkfin route, Boston Peak, and Sahale and were back to the car for late afternoon-early evening beers. The route is a natural one day route for someone of any hiking speed and climbing ability, although Boston Basin is a cool camp.

Dwayner, The Hawaii cave story sounds familiar. If you are who I think you are, was that on an archaeological expedition? Keep up the good stories.

I agree. I have noticed that in the last year a lot of registers from Cascade summits are disappearing. Pretty lame. It's fun to read em'.