Jens

I did take a powder once a long long time ago. I hung on a bolt or two. All I remember was that is was not a route for soft shoes. As a mountin climber I only go to smith about once every three years -So my memory is faded but speaking of stout 12A's, Freebase seemed really hard for the grade. Any thoughts?

That would be cool if they opened phair creek. We really need that areat to be open all year to dissipate the increasing crowds we are seeing each new ice season.

A few of my crazy ideas. 1. Let people rank on this site all they want. the internet has cerainly changed climbing? It's saved me a lot of money driving to :locked gates, unnaounced or unposted pass closures, melted out ice, what cracks look dry but are wet inside, and access issues that those who don't come to the site are missing. Those that aren't on this site have put a lot more miles on their cars for the same amount of climbing. It's also allowed a lot of people that don't get out 150 days a year to get in with "what is going on with cascade climbing culture"? (not that I'm claimin'to be well versed) Stories and urban legends were passed at parking lots, gustav's, logger's ledge, and at breaks between yoyo skiing? Now someone could log on to this site from their cubicle at work for six months and know just about every story myth or cascade tale to be told? 2. Yes a buttload of people don't post but I can guaratee you that a bunch of legends and hardmen lurk-----often . 3. Would we all agree that going through this site is better than siting on the couch and watching TV? We can't be doing pullups all day and night . 4. What I wish would change would be-- the 10 to 1 ratio of lurkers to posters would change. And the a lot more of the posts would be put under the "spray" forum. Here is a another crazy idea that I'm sure to gef flamed for: Take how many days a year you get out, multiply it by 2 and that would equal how many posts you wo uld be allowed per year. This site would be instanly transformed. I don't care if you climb 5.2 or 5.15 WI 2 or WI7. In 10 years we'll all be out climbing with helmet cams going. We'll download our footage onto the site for others to see? Enough spray from me. Just my humble two cents worth. I've been told I take my shit to seriously before and I'm sure I'll get it now. Flame away [ 10-04-2002, 07:26 PM: Message edited by: Jens ]

A few of my crazy ideas. 1. Let people rank on this site all they want. the internet has cerainly changed climbing? It's saved me a lot of money driving to :locked gates, unnaounced or unposted pass closures, melted out ice, what cracks look dry but are wet inside, and access issues that those who don't come to the site are missing. Those that aren't on this site have put a lot more miles on their cars for the same amount of climbing. It's also allowed a lot of people that don't get out 150 days a year to get in with "what is going on with cascade climbing culture"? (not that I'm claimin'to be well versed) Stories and urban legends were passed at parking lots, gustav's, logger's ledge, and at breaks between yoyo skiing? Now someone could log on to this site from their cubicle at work for six months and know just about every story myth or cascade tale to be told? 2. Yes a buttload of people don't post but I can guaratee you that a bunch of legends and hardmen lurk-----often . 3. Would we all agree that going through this site is better than siting on the couch and watching TV? We can't be doing pullups all day and night . 4. What I wish would change would be-- the 10 to 1 ratio of lurkers to posters would change. And the a lot more of the posts would be put under the "spray" forum. Here is a another crazy idea that I'm sure to gef flamed for: Take how many days a year you get out, multiply it by 2 and that would equal how many posts you wo uld be allowed per year. This site would be instanly transformed. I don't care if you climb 5.2 or 5.15 WI 2 or WI7. In 10 years we'll all be out climbing with helmet cams going. We'll download our footage onto the site for others to see? Enough spray from me. Just my humble two cents worth. I've been told I take my shit to seriously before and I'm sure I'll get it now. Flame away [ 10-04-2002, 07:26 PM: Message edited by: Jens ]

I don't own the Kearney book but I spent about an hour going though it at marmot. It is a nice book. Nice perspective on a lifetime of experience. but....... In my humble opinion, the Nelson Volume 1 has all the gems and is THE definitive Cascade true tick list. 20 years from now we will still be looking at the grouping of Jim's volume 1. Even though it doesn' have crag climbs it is still awesome. Best crag routes i've done in Wa 1.Outer space 2. Sting-ROTC 3. Dagobah System (Midnight) 4. Technorigine Little Si

Does the Haystack on Mt. Si count as a classic? I guess I'm not experienced because all my relatives and students ask me if I'v e ever climbed the REI pinnacle. I haven't. Ok 89 of Nelsen climbs done 44 in book one 45 in book two I don't own the Kearney Book

It is a fun climb, but if you are looking for an ice climb you will be disappointed. Our trip report and photos are on Ben Manfredi's website. cascadeclassics accessed via alpinelite.com

That really blows about the WAC'ers. Not cool at all. Mountaineers wouldn't even intercept you on the trail. It sound's like you were a gentleman about the whole thing. When this type of situation really is upsetting INMHO is in ice climbing. Such a limited resource (close to the road) around here. And Stefan, you are right about many of the French being assholes about climbing-- but most of the ones that are assholes are pretty good climbers. If someone clips my anchors, Protection, and climbs past me at 100 miles an hour I'll keep my trap shut. Especially when they are taking 70 foot runouts on 5.11+-5.12 gear pitches.

In high school we used to climb up and jump off a lot of bridges and stuff. Deep water soloing is currently the rage in Europe. It looks like a rush. Climb at one letter grade below your onsight level 60 feet above the water etc. Anybody seen any good spots to do it in WA? I'm not looking for for bouldering above water but actual big air between the legs on terrain that is vert. to overhanging. It would be a plus if you didn't have to have a boat to get to. My brother found some good stuff up in BC but you had to sail way to far to get to it. Speaking of water, we all should go in on gas money to persuade a cc'er to tow their yacht up to Lillooet for Seton Lake this winter. I'd contribute at least 40 bucks. We could even have a keg on board. PS Anybody seen Alain Robert's website? That guy's got some nuts the size of watermelons.

Enjoy the serenity of the tieton It amazes me. It is only about 25 minutes longer drive than Vantage, has some nice bolted lines (especially at the cave), has the same rainshadow effect as Vantage. Vantage is mobs of people and dogs excavating routes that get "re-cleaned" with every ascent and Tieton goes begging for climbers. Tieton has clip ups, cracks, multipitch, and if you want a challenge, harder routes than Vantage. Oh and a lot of really good easy ones to. Just a word of warning though, In my humble opinion,if you go to Teiton, you will probably never go to Vantage again.

It would be great Public Relations if someone would step up and take the torch on this. They way those locals gossip around the breakfast tables in the Reynolds, I'm sure that the word would spread all across town in about 2 days about how nice us Ice climbing Americans were. Rather than making fun of us in our pink north face coats,spandex, earings, and "funky" accents. We want them to like us up there. it could really pay off -(car break down up by the dam , beta on temps over the phone, deals on rooms, etc.)

I've heard that the E.face route has had "some" winter ascents? Maybe people will post details of their climbs. M5ish? I've only done it in the summer. How was Canada Cavey? Are the snafflehounds bigger up in the northlands?

Some info about a climb I did that appeared on another site needs clarification. The chairlift was utilized to aid in the approach. My legs are to way to weak to run in a flat out sprint all the way in and out. Sorry for any confusion PS If you don't understand my silly post, you are probably better off. Don't ask.

Have fun. Don't fall into the drink on the Log Crossing! And I hope you are better versed in wild glacier travel then 99% of Colorado or Utah climbers. Not trying to be smart ass. Have fun. Its should be an enjoyable trip for you.

We need 38 to be a safe resource because for many of us it is quite simply the closest in terms of number of minutes from work to time to climb when you figure the drive, traffic, and hiking time. These factors override the rock quality. How about some vigilante justice if you know what I mean? If it is happening up at the lot to the cave, they can be boxed in. If it is at the trestle area, it will require some creativity, CC'ers can play any game they want. Many of us on this board are well schooled in every manner of aggression or use of "equpiment".

That blows. I was going to buy a pair, but now I'll have to look into those front points. and I don't like the Grivel froint points either because they are to thick and cost a fortune to replace every season. Why can't somebody make a crampon I like?

Best packs for alpine climbing: (layback moves, piolet traction, range of motion, no bells and whistles to hang up in chimneys, well balnanced, etc.) millet lafuma wildcountry (do they still make em'?) worst packs for alpnie climbing. Mountainsmith Dana Design Gregory Osprey Climb some steep rock and swing some tools and you'll agree.

I don't know why I'm defending fossil because I don't really care about it or may not go down there ever anymore really. But I must point out, The areas that people climb at now are not very good in comparison to the DNR restricted stuff. And I got lost once back in the sticks out there and found some awesome should i say it bouldering--- shhhh. And no it wasn't where anybody else goes.

A friend who lurks on this site is in the midst of huge court battle over this thing. Maybe he'll post. I just got another ticket after coming out from prussik two days ago. I even put all my science teacher fieldwork stuff on my dashboard.- educational exemption? leavenworth rangers didn' t give a flying f*!#

It was sad to hear that the Skookumchuck routes are gone. I haven't climbed there for many years. Kevin Busselmeier first took me out there when I was a teenager. Good memories. I guess Fred Beckey even did some climbing out their in the days of yore? Fossil has something for everybody. Even some unreported nailups. And Lucky, I disagree with you on the assessment of fossil. I would say that it is just the opposite. It is a choss pile for routes in the 5.5-5.11 range but in the 5.12-5.14 range the possibililtes will bring this area back into the front burner of PNW climbing probably in about 10-15 years. I guess the point is currently dead because the best routes in the 5.12-5.13 range have had the bolts removed. I may never get back south to fossil, nor do I really care about the area, but some of the obscure cliffs located way back in the deep, dark woods will offer challenges for the next generations of pullers. Thats because the place has tons of tiny features like smith, but is often much steeper. Many of us (myself included) have abandoned old lines we have bolted. We have not heard the last from fossil.....mark my words. Enough spray from me.

The pass is sick and wrong. Don't buy it.

Just got back this from attmepting a new line up in the Cascade pass area. While Driving on the river road, I stopped and looked at the CJ couloir you are taliking about with the binocs just for shits and giggles. I counted at least 4 wall to wallers. The narrow contriction was melted out in 2 places. And the the finish had a patch that was blue ice. this planet is really get warmer! We went up and down the thing last Sept. And it was holding a lot more volume. This was big snow winter and it's still August. It is climbable but you will need rock gear and will need to be solid on 5.6 rock in your crampons.

WWI at little Si is awesome. The quality is way underated. Dagobah system in Leavenworth is pretty cool but most sport climbers wouldn't want to deal with the couple of gear placements. Trigger Finger at Tieton's Cave has some thrilling moves. Anybody check out Marcus or Horne lake? ------------------------------------------------- Offwhitie... I notice you are from Tennino. Does Fossil get much traffic these days? I climbed out there a lot as a youngster. To bad that awesome crag "Ted's Wall" (Ted Otto namesake) had all the bolts removed by DNR. That was a sweet area.

Thanks Dru for bringing up water ice right now. Now that it's on our minds we'll all have to suffer for a few more months [ 08-22-2002, 12:36 PM: Message edited by: Jens ]

Thanks Dru for bringing up water ice right now. Now that it's on our minds we'll all after to suffer for a few more months