Jens

My 2 cents- (If you are into steep alpine climbing) Best: Lafuma Milllet Worst: Mountainsmith Dana Design Osprey [ 11-01-2002, 04:40 PM: Message edited by: Jens ]

I'll be at castle or midnight on Saturday and am almost always willing to share a rope.

[ 10-16-2002, 07:32 PM: Message edited by: Jens ]

My partner is going to be at the ropeup Friday-Sunday. I will be going over for Saturday only. If anyone wants to carpool from the Issaquah park and ride at REAL early, let me know. I will be going to Castle, Midnight or Rattlesnake on Saturday and then a beer a tGustav's or the cc roundup basecamp.

Kudos to the Cascade Crags staff for putting on an excellent event. Great routes and prizes. I had never been to their gym but found they are a class organization with a huge climbing shop also. On your way to the North Cascades and forgot something? Their pro shop is only a few minutes off I-5.

[ 10-14-2002, 04:48 PM: Message edited by: Jens ]

Another magazine gripe of mine: The magazines and the whole industry have a huge love of climbers from Colorado or Utah. If you aren't from those places you ain't dirt. Don't believe me? if you are bored at work, whip out any issue and count pictures and articles affiliated with those climbers. Sure the pure waterfall ice and pure sport rock abilities of the avg climber from UT or Co is a bit higher but all and all we WA, OR, and British Columbia climbers are not quite cool enough or "hard" enough for them when in fact we climb much more like our European Uber-brethren than those UT or Co people. [ 10-14-2002, 04:47 PM: Message edited by: Jens ]

If the wonderland trail can be done in 30 something hours (20,000+vertical gain and 100+ish miles?) And the nose goes in 2 something hours,Certainly any route on any hill in our state could go in a 24 hour day. Sure not by me though. Just for curiousity, who is the stongest big hill slogger in WA right now (with a good size pack, and mountain boots on -no trail runners)? I would say that Ben Manfredi would have to rank right up there. He just recently tried to break the wonderland trail record, with a pack on and with no support team or cached food or water. He usually hikes in his Terminator tele boots.

Renaming the route is a terrible idea.

Is that why if I go to smith I always get spanked on the first day? Is the bouldering thing keeping crowds down at smith these days? I have a friend that climbs at rifle a lot and says that since this pad culture thing took off rifle has become a ghost town relative to what it once was. Speaking of bouldering, I've been jumpin into the bouldering rotation with some of these young pad toters. They are friggin' strong! What was considered powerfull six or seven years ago is now passe. Endurance hasn't really changed but these 18-19 year olds have some steel fingers!

I did take a powder once a long long time ago. I hung on a bolt or two. All I remember was that is was not a route for soft shoes. As a mountin climber I only go to smith about once every three years -So my memory is faded but speaking of stout 12A's, Freebase seemed really hard for the grade. Any thoughts?

That would be cool if they opened phair creek. We really need that areat to be open all year to dissipate the increasing crowds we are seeing each new ice season.

A few of my crazy ideas. 1. Let people rank on this site all they want. the internet has cerainly changed climbing? It's saved me a lot of money driving to :locked gates, unnaounced or unposted pass closures, melted out ice, what cracks look dry but are wet inside, and access issues that those who don't come to the site are missing. Those that aren't on this site have put a lot more miles on their cars for the same amount of climbing. It's also allowed a lot of people that don't get out 150 days a year to get in with "what is going on with cascade climbing culture"? (not that I'm claimin'to be well versed) Stories and urban legends were passed at parking lots, gustav's, logger's ledge, and at breaks between yoyo skiing? Now someone could log on to this site from their cubicle at work for six months and know just about every story myth or cascade tale to be told? 2. Yes a buttload of people don't post but I can guaratee you that a bunch of legends and hardmen lurk-----often . 3. Would we all agree that going through this site is better than siting on the couch and watching TV? We can't be doing pullups all day and night . 4. What I wish would change would be-- the 10 to 1 ratio of lurkers to posters would change. And the a lot more of the posts would be put under the "spray" forum. Here is a another crazy idea that I'm sure to gef flamed for: Take how many days a year you get out, multiply it by 2 and that would equal how many posts you wo uld be allowed per year. This site would be instanly transformed. I don't care if you climb 5.2 or 5.15 WI 2 or WI7. In 10 years we'll all be out climbing with helmet cams going. We'll download our footage onto the site for others to see? Enough spray from me. Just my humble two cents worth. I've been told I take my shit to seriously before and I'm sure I'll get it now. Flame away [ 10-04-2002, 07:26 PM: Message edited by: Jens ]

A few of my crazy ideas. 1. Let people rank on this site all they want. the internet has cerainly changed climbing? It's saved me a lot of money driving to :locked gates, unnaounced or unposted pass closures, melted out ice, what cracks look dry but are wet inside, and access issues that those who don't come to the site are missing. Those that aren't on this site have put a lot more miles on their cars for the same amount of climbing. It's also allowed a lot of people that don't get out 150 days a year to get in with "what is going on with cascade climbing culture"? (not that I'm claimin'to be well versed) Stories and urban legends were passed at parking lots, gustav's, logger's ledge, and at breaks between yoyo skiing? Now someone could log on to this site from their cubicle at work for six months and know just about every story myth or cascade tale to be told? 2. Yes a buttload of people don't post but I can guaratee you that a bunch of legends and hardmen lurk-----often . 3. Would we all agree that going through this site is better than siting on the couch and watching TV? We can't be doing pullups all day and night . 4. What I wish would change would be-- the 10 to 1 ratio of lurkers to posters would change. And the a lot more of the posts would be put under the "spray" forum. Here is a another crazy idea that I'm sure to gef flamed for: Take how many days a year you get out, multiply it by 2 and that would equal how many posts you wo uld be allowed per year. This site would be instanly transformed. I don't care if you climb 5.2 or 5.15 WI 2 or WI7. In 10 years we'll all be out climbing with helmet cams going. We'll download our footage onto the site for others to see? Enough spray from me. Just my humble two cents worth. I've been told I take my shit to seriously before and I'm sure I'll get it now. Flame away [ 10-04-2002, 07:26 PM: Message edited by: Jens ]

I don't own the Kearney book but I spent about an hour going though it at marmot. It is a nice book. Nice perspective on a lifetime of experience. but....... In my humble opinion, the Nelson Volume 1 has all the gems and is THE definitive Cascade true tick list. 20 years from now we will still be looking at the grouping of Jim's volume 1. Even though it doesn' have crag climbs it is still awesome. Best crag routes i've done in Wa 1.Outer space 2. Sting-ROTC 3. Dagobah System (Midnight) 4. Technorigine Little Si

Does the Haystack on Mt. Si count as a classic? I guess I'm not experienced because all my relatives and students ask me if I'v e ever climbed the REI pinnacle. I haven't. Ok 89 of Nelsen climbs done 44 in book one 45 in book two I don't own the Kearney Book

It is a fun climb, but if you are looking for an ice climb you will be disappointed. Our trip report and photos are on Ben Manfredi's website. cascadeclassics accessed via alpinelite.com

That really blows about the WAC'ers. Not cool at all. Mountaineers wouldn't even intercept you on the trail. It sound's like you were a gentleman about the whole thing. When this type of situation really is upsetting INMHO is in ice climbing. Such a limited resource (close to the road) around here. And Stefan, you are right about many of the French being assholes about climbing-- but most of the ones that are assholes are pretty good climbers. If someone clips my anchors, Protection, and climbs past me at 100 miles an hour I'll keep my trap shut. Especially when they are taking 70 foot runouts on 5.11+-5.12 gear pitches.

In high school we used to climb up and jump off a lot of bridges and stuff. Deep water soloing is currently the rage in Europe. It looks like a rush. Climb at one letter grade below your onsight level 60 feet above the water etc. Anybody seen any good spots to do it in WA? I'm not looking for for bouldering above water but actual big air between the legs on terrain that is vert. to overhanging. It would be a plus if you didn't have to have a boat to get to. My brother found some good stuff up in BC but you had to sail way to far to get to it. Speaking of water, we all should go in on gas money to persuade a cc'er to tow their yacht up to Lillooet for Seton Lake this winter. I'd contribute at least 40 bucks. We could even have a keg on board. PS Anybody seen Alain Robert's website? That guy's got some nuts the size of watermelons.

Enjoy the serenity of the tieton It amazes me. It is only about 25 minutes longer drive than Vantage, has some nice bolted lines (especially at the cave), has the same rainshadow effect as Vantage. Vantage is mobs of people and dogs excavating routes that get "re-cleaned" with every ascent and Tieton goes begging for climbers. Tieton has clip ups, cracks, multipitch, and if you want a challenge, harder routes than Vantage. Oh and a lot of really good easy ones to. Just a word of warning though, In my humble opinion,if you go to Teiton, you will probably never go to Vantage again.

It would be great Public Relations if someone would step up and take the torch on this. They way those locals gossip around the breakfast tables in the Reynolds, I'm sure that the word would spread all across town in about 2 days about how nice us Ice climbing Americans were. Rather than making fun of us in our pink north face coats,spandex, earings, and "funky" accents. We want them to like us up there. it could really pay off -(car break down up by the dam , beta on temps over the phone, deals on rooms, etc.)

I've heard that the E.face route has had "some" winter ascents? Maybe people will post details of their climbs. M5ish? I've only done it in the summer. How was Canada Cavey? Are the snafflehounds bigger up in the northlands?

Some info about a climb I did that appeared on another site needs clarification. The chairlift was utilized to aid in the approach. My legs are to way to weak to run in a flat out sprint all the way in and out. Sorry for any confusion PS If you don't understand my silly post, you are probably better off. Don't ask.

I would like to buy your DMM crampons and quite possibly your BD screws. I live in Renton. What works best for you up in Bellingham? I have some business up there and also will be likely be passing through either Saturday or Sunday evening this weekend. Will those days or times work for you? Or do you have any business in the near future down on King/snohomish County? Jens Klubberud Renton

Gear I'm selling or willing to trade away. I will be at the Mary moor park climbing rock on Tuesday Sept. 10 (unless it is raining). I'll be there from approx.4:30pm-6:30pm --------------------------------------------- New style camp lightfangs with optional orange antibotts. Dual points but never used mono kit included. 35$ Trezeta Plastic mountineering boots size 10.5-11 25$ Metolius Pure Force finger board 35$ Modular hold 3 pack with t-nuts 8$ REI mountain axe (same as smc shuksan axe) includes leash 20$ 2 pack WC rocks with sewn spectra 7$ Chalkbag 4$ Assorted biners and quickdraws- name your price Camp pound in ice screw (brand new) 10$ DMM pound in ice screw 8$ 2 assorted black diamond leashes 5$ each ATC belay device 5$ The "gripppp" forearm trainer (new) 3$ MSR fuel bottle 33 oz. (used one trip) 5$ OR insulated nalgene parka w/ zipper 6$ Ascension 3/4length skins (missing some hardware) 10$ North Face Extreme ski pants medium includes suspenders 20$ Serrac nylon glacier pants small 8$ REi fleece jacket pullover small 10$ Marmot priamloft mit liners XL never used 10$ OR Gore Tex basic mits medium 10$ Kombi gore tex gloves small 5$ DC ice gloves (gauntlet style) 10$ Books: Flash Training -Horst 10$ Extreme Alpinism -Twight 10$ High Altitude illness and wellness -Houston 5$ 55hikes in central WA- Manning 5$ Mountain Sickness -Hackett 5$ ____________ Secret beta for 91 of the 173 climbs in the selected climbs in the cascades books -Price One Beer