Jens

Why Creatine? I can't think of any part of the climbing game where you want lots of muscle mass. The stongest snow sloggers on the planet are small. J.C. Lafaille 5'2 120 Avg sherpa size 5'5ish 150 As for rock, ice, aid, mixed, extreme ski, and bouldering many of the best are even lighter than the above mentioned! Just my two cents

This is a route I'd definietly like to do this summer. Where did you get all your route info?

If you want to go light on Denali, bring a couple of cartons of Marlboros and trade for all your food and fuel at high camps. I've seen people smoke like chimneys and still haul ass on summit day. When they are out, smokes are more valuable than gold.

It could be many years from now, but there is always a possiblity that all of the stone in the Lower Town areas could again be quarried, regardless of its' current ownership or status. There is big money is quarried granite. If it is a state park, it could always be sold to help the finacial situation that the parks are in. I used to go to Skookumchuck Resoivoir near Olympia to crag when I was a teenager. The place has since been quarried. ----------------------------- Iv'e never tried Dale's idea of a pig belay but it sound's good. I'll have to try it sometime.

Nice skiing! I haven't heard if lover's lane has been skiied before. I've skiied the zipper- the one right up the middle.

I could be way wrong on this, but this company got publicity by sponsoring a few Everest south Col expeditions? Climbing gear and clothing is kind of weird. The ads make me think one way, but what we really see a lot of in the field can sometimes be way different. I have noticed something really weird about Mt. Hardware stuff. You see a lot of it, but is not that often seen being used by good climbers who spend a lot of days out. Just my opinion. Kind of like Volkl skiis. In the 90's they didn't hardly advertise but a good majority of the kings of the ski hills rode on them. Mt. hardware seems to be just the opposite. Lots of ads and used by mediocre climbers. I proablaby am in no postion to make these commenst as all I have is a pair of their gloves, but man do they suck! Worse than even columbia.

There's some pieces of my gore-tex hanging on devil's club, and a couple of pitons up there for booty.

Ditto the water dump out to save knees. Also poles help save knees. Anybody know if putting ankle weights on is safe? Somebody once said that they can destroy knees in hurry. I want more weight on my feet because I always suck wind bad with heavy boots, crampons, balled-up snow, wet socks, and gaiters. Seems like 15 pounds on each foot!

*The Ymca wall was entre prises if I remember correctly. The same kind used in world cups. Set any size hold the way you want. *I never climbed at UPS or Fort Lewis. *Spire rock has a few problems that are around V7... greasy balance shit- probably be challenging if you are a steep puller. Also piss is sterile?

I wonder if I doused myself with a whole bottle of DEET it would have the same effect? In all seriousness, I try to say at least "hi" to everyone I see on the trail. It's funny to see people who think they are are hard look you back in the eye and not say "hi" back- Usually seven summits types training on West Tiger or Si.

They could be gladiators on the lake by Marble Canyon. The losers could become fish bait for the ice fisherman. As for the accreditation statement, who knows. At my old ski school, the best skiiers were ones that couldn't afford, or didn't bother or care about getting certified. The "accredited" instructors were much better at "but kissing" their clinicians. The Euro Clinicians flunking Stevie Haston comes to mind?

It is nice to get dialogue on this issue. Yes I agree with you whole-heartedly that we should all instead perhaps switch to the European grading for alpine routes. As for the Nooksack route, The statement that you make I disagree with. I don't want to get into a pissing match or anything but I have spent some time in Yosemite and I have found that the grade V's down their take less time than our nooksack route. The route involved lots of ice climbing and monkey buisness just to get to the Start of the rock. Also, I enjoy the discussion but go try some of my crag climbs if you think I grade really soft. I've established 5.12 crack routes and have climbed other grade IV's and V's in less than five hours with much soloing. The Nooksack adventure was a 3 day trip with 17 or so hours on the "climbing"-not approaches. I do think you have some legit points though about alpine grades. But also, go check out the route and tell me your opinion. ---------------------- Also, does anybody have a opinion about the following: Some of our grade iv's and v are a lot more commiting than other areas. For instance: A number of years ago I climbed the Givler? route on the NE face of Johannesburg. The climb was on a sunny day and was mellow. But it was also a really odd climb. Almost not even a single rurp crack existed on the WHOLE thing. (Funky North Cascades metamorphics) I thought to myself it started to rain or somebody got hurt and you had to bail you'd be screwed or dead. Very few other places are like this. -Especailly Yosemite or much of the Alps. Good cracks, people, bolts, choppers, fixed lines hut, or cracks at all for that matter.

*YMCA *University of Puget Sound *Fort Lewis *Spire Rock (outdoor)

If anyone wants to make some money--- The population density center for the whole state lies on a map somewhere between Tacoma and Seattle and is completey unserved by any kind of rock gym. Millions of people live in the areas of Renton, Kent, Auburn, Covington, Federal Way , Burien, Tukwilla, Des moines, Sea Tac, Summner and many more are unwilling to battle traffic to Ballard, Redmond, or Tacoma after work. I'll bet any gym opened in this area would be the most profitable gym in the whole state beacuse it is near a buttload of people and would have zero competition.

Any thoughts on what rock shoes we all like for different crag areas in the cascades? Many of us carry a "quiver of shoes" For instance the harder friction climbs up the icicle require microedge work where the harder peshastin slabs require ball of the foot pure friction and pebble smearing. Index harder face stuff- don't need any kind of pointed toes but need micro edge power. Some the older blunter sytle spotiva sport shoes were proably the best made for these climbs (tao, kendo). The new trendy curved stuff is worthless for this style? N. Bend- Soft hgih performance shoes Wa pass- Edges of cracks often seem to have make beleive giant "crustals"- and very few micro edges -softer shoes than most granite areas. Slippers work great. Enough pontificating- this weather friggin' blows.. wet rock and no ice- (I hear spring song birds and have mosquitos at my house right now.) and lot of moss growing in my yard and onmy driveway.

I'll bet it's been warm enough that if you found rock that faced south like at Peshastin or dare I say- vantage you could comfortable rock climb right now. It would be nice if winter would go out with little bit of a bang. I recently got the worst base shot on my alpine skis. Anybody else destroy their skis?

The rattlesnake stuff takes at least 24-36 hours of dry air to dry out. The bouldering's pretty cool but the holds seem to stay slimy for quite a while. It's been my experience that the lead climbs on the big cliff take even longer to dry. The area is pretty cool and has some more potential for routes despite the fact that the rock isn't as good as the 32 area. Have fun. Be safe.

All of those times are friggin' amazing! How does one prepare his or her carcass for such abuse?

Is this a typo?

to do: *Go fart around in the Eldorado-Klawatti plateau region with skis. *Finish doing every route at Midnight (tr, lead, or hangdog in my lycra!) *Find more bouldering tucked into the woods for after work stuff around N. Bend. (There's gotta be a lot more out there?) *Ice-Find a secret reliable stash close to home? *Sleep in my own bed all the time? *Avoid finger injuries from peer pressured bouldering sessions.

______________________ Wow, that sucks bad. I've heard of other such related schemes with climbing gear. Also as somebody pointed out earlier, they will keep charging us what we are willing to pay- whether it be $169 for gloves, 146$ for rock slippers, or $300 for a single ice tool.

It sounds like it is just the old Stealth 2 rubber remarketed. And thanks Trask for defending the validity of my post.

Congratulations to whoever is doing M9. That's world class climbing.

Five.ten has a new rubber out called stealth high friction or (HF). Anybody use it or hear about how it climbs? I emailed five.ten several months ago before my last resole but never got a reply. Also, anybody care to comment: The older Stealth 2 seemed stickier than C4, but didn't edge nearly as well. Could this new HF stuff be a throwback to the old Stealth 2 that was retired about 1990?

Like: Glaciers Serentity Being able to ski 12 months a year Variety People are usually cool After work cragging at N. Bend. Dislike Rain and bugs The amount of miles we put on our cars (Lillooet, Smith, Squamish, WA Pass, Tieton, Mt. Hood) Overhyped: Index Wish: That we had a glacier for skiing and serracing 15 minutes from Seattle like they do in some of the towns in Alaska.