Jens

Yeah, after a day of work, I plan to boulder in between transactions. Oh and my list was stuff that I'm looking for.

I'll be there (unless it is pouring down rain). Tuesday the 10th. I'll probably be there from about 4:30pm on. I'll be bouldering and carry my crap over to the Marymoor rock. Look for the tattered fish haulbag. I'm looking to do some trading and selling, but I don't have much money to buy stuff. Looking for: *An old thrashed down jacket or sweater. ( My expedition one is way to huge and warm.) *Used rambocomps, grade 8's or m10s or DMM's, etc. *Used holds *Old thrashed rigid friends. *Videos or books? Old back issues of summit, rockandice, or climbing? *Gloves *Any kind of stetchable pant for mountaineering (nylon or smartwool or whatever) I'll bring a typed list of stuff I'm tring to get rid of so I don't bug RURP by dumping everyting on a tarp.

Have fun. Don't fall into the drink on the Log Crossing! And I hope you are better versed in wild glacier travel then 99% of Colorado or Utah climbers. Not trying to be smart ass. Have fun. Its should be an enjoyable trip for you.

We need 38 to be a safe resource because for many of us it is quite simply the closest in terms of number of minutes from work to time to climb when you figure the drive, traffic, and hiking time. These factors override the rock quality. How about some vigilante justice if you know what I mean? If it is happening up at the lot to the cave, they can be boxed in. If it is at the trestle area, it will require some creativity, CC'ers can play any game they want. Many of us on this board are well schooled in every manner of aggression or use of "equpiment".

That blows. I was going to buy a pair, but now I'll have to look into those front points. and I don't like the Grivel froint points either because they are to thick and cost a fortune to replace every season. Why can't somebody make a crampon I like?

Best packs for alpine climbing: (layback moves, piolet traction, range of motion, no bells and whistles to hang up in chimneys, well balnanced, etc.) millet lafuma wildcountry (do they still make em'?) worst packs for alpnie climbing. Mountainsmith Dana Design Gregory Osprey Climb some steep rock and swing some tools and you'll agree.

I don't know why I'm defending fossil because I don't really care about it or may not go down there ever anymore really. But I must point out, The areas that people climb at now are not very good in comparison to the DNR restricted stuff. And I got lost once back in the sticks out there and found some awesome should i say it bouldering--- shhhh. And no it wasn't where anybody else goes.

A friend who lurks on this site is in the midst of huge court battle over this thing. Maybe he'll post. I just got another ticket after coming out from prussik two days ago. I even put all my science teacher fieldwork stuff on my dashboard.- educational exemption? leavenworth rangers didn' t give a flying f*!#

It was sad to hear that the Skookumchuck routes are gone. I haven't climbed there for many years. Kevin Busselmeier first took me out there when I was a teenager. Good memories. I guess Fred Beckey even did some climbing out their in the days of yore? Fossil has something for everybody. Even some unreported nailups. And Lucky, I disagree with you on the assessment of fossil. I would say that it is just the opposite. It is a choss pile for routes in the 5.5-5.11 range but in the 5.12-5.14 range the possibililtes will bring this area back into the front burner of PNW climbing probably in about 10-15 years. I guess the point is currently dead because the best routes in the 5.12-5.13 range have had the bolts removed. I may never get back south to fossil, nor do I really care about the area, but some of the obscure cliffs located way back in the deep, dark woods will offer challenges for the next generations of pullers. Thats because the place has tons of tiny features like smith, but is often much steeper. Many of us (myself included) have abandoned old lines we have bolted. We have not heard the last from fossil.....mark my words. Enough spray from me.

UW rock would proabably get more people but I only go there about once every four years and it seems like the parking lot is always full. Marymoor has a parking lot that is always empty ( we could lay shit out on tarps), a huge grassy field and tons of space. But if more people would prefer UW, I'd go there. But I think Mary moor would be better. 520 isn't that bad you Seattleites Are people game for trading or swaping some gear? I don't have much cash. __________________________ Midweek soon.

Here is an idea I've been thinking of: A lot of us climbers have tons of gear and not a lot of extra cash. We all have gear that we; don't like anymore, have outgrown, have replaced, or don't use anymore. We could have a cascade climbers "swap meet" at Marymoor or UW rock. We could trade or buy or sell gear. I bet if even a dozen people showed up with some gear it would be a great way to score that used item we've all been to poor to lay down top dollar for. I don't have much gear to unload but would like to try this. Then some bouldering or a pint of redhook? Any takers? I'd say It's a go if we could get at least 10 people.

The pass is sick and wrong. Don't buy it.

Just got back this from attmepting a new line up in the Cascade pass area. While Driving on the river road, I stopped and looked at the CJ couloir you are taliking about with the binocs just for shits and giggles. I counted at least 4 wall to wallers. The narrow contriction was melted out in 2 places. And the the finish had a patch that was blue ice. this planet is really get warmer! We went up and down the thing last Sept. And it was holding a lot more volume. This was big snow winter and it's still August. It is climbable but you will need rock gear and will need to be solid on 5.6 rock in your crampons.

WWI at little Si is awesome. The quality is way underated. Dagobah system in Leavenworth is pretty cool but most sport climbers wouldn't want to deal with the couple of gear placements. Trigger Finger at Tieton's Cave has some thrilling moves. Anybody check out Marcus or Horne lake? ------------------------------------------------- Offwhitie... I notice you are from Tennino. Does Fossil get much traffic these days? I climbed out there a lot as a youngster. To bad that awesome crag "Ted's Wall" (Ted Otto namesake) had all the bolts removed by DNR. That was a sweet area.

Thanks Dru for bringing up water ice right now. Now that it's on our minds we'll all have to suffer for a few more months [ 08-22-2002, 12:36 PM: Message edited by: Jens ]

Thanks Dru for bringing up water ice right now. Now that it's on our minds we'll all after to suffer for a few more months

There used to be one of those motion counters up at exit 38. As you walked on the gravel road toward the trail leading to the cave etc,. it was on your left. On the topic of technology, some of the NPS staff in Yosemite have used night vision goggles to patrol the valley at night (find bandit sleepers?) I've been roused once at dawn for bandit camping down there.

Lot's a classic crack bashing.... a few more WA sandbags INMHO. *Potholes, rated (5.7+) *Carnival Crack , rated (5.10c) -would be 11b in Squamish *Thin Red Line pitch 1 rated, (5.8) *Any bolted face at the upper town wall that has mossed over due to low traffic (almost all of them) *Sting and wasp at midnight, rated(5.10a)

quote: Originally posted by mikeadam: Jens I know you secretly support the Sierra Club... But don't tell them that I pack heat into the Pickets to supplement my rations with wild game. Mountainman.... You should definitely check out the route on Formidable. Also there are several obvious lines that are waiting on the face. It's a lot like the South face of Forbidden only it's twice as high and a lot wider. Well, enough chestbeating for now.

No balanced rock guys? __________________________________ As for soloing, the West ridge would be easy and safe. The part that would probably make the average Joe alpinist to pause would be a 15 foot section of off fingers. Only 5.6, but if your crack leading limit was say... 5.9, You'd better concentrate pretty hard or you're ridin' the range. I guess I sound like a mountie.

I overheard a dude talking on his sattelite phone at the windy corner on Denali, "What do you mean you can't find the mayo? It should be in the drawer below the crisper. And also, the relish should be in the bottom drawer." He was giving directions to the person that was housesitting his apartment during his climb. The housesitter was trying to make a sandwich and was having trouble finding stuff in the climber's crowded fridge. I think the call was going fom Denali to California?

Slightly off topic... but I have been loosely following A. Robert's climbing feats since 1992. This guy is by far the most extreme dude of any of us 7 billion people here on earth. He makes rodeo clowns, alligator wrestlers, base jumpers, 8000 meter unsupported soloists, Harry Houdini, motorcyle racers, or Hollywood stuntmen look like pussies. It's kind of ironic to because he is French and a sport climber. The French were whimps during both world wars and those of us that sport climb are realtively sane. Does anybody remember the feature about him in mountain magazine about 10 years ago? It was the issue with the Index feature. He was doing some crazy stuff. Free soloing 5.14a a thousand feet off the deck in the Verdon gorge. And he had only done some of the climbs a few times on rope before!

Say what you want, but the line looks really sweet! I hiked to the base of it once in the rain before it was bolted. I wanted to do it. I figured a few bolts and lots of small gear. The moves look really cool. More cereberal than the mundane smear, smear, smear, smear of Darrington? Speaking of slabs, what is the hardest slab route in our state? Rotues that have not been overtaken by moss that is.

quote: Originally posted by richard noggin: I have dogs but don't take them to the crag.Dude did you come to climb or walk your #$%!en dog? Or are you trying to pick up chicks with your lame ass mutt? I have friends that bring there dogs to the crag I don't like it but I put up with it . It seems to be the group that,I don't want kids because of responsibility so I get a dog. My real problem is not with the dogs it's the idiot dog owners, Leash it, don't let it run wild and knock rocks on fellow climbers, keep it out of dog fights, clean up its shit , keep it off my rope and out of my belay. Why and @#$% should we have to deal with problems from your pouch Your dog would not be that out of control black mutt named Vader that almost wiped us out with rock fall a few years ago would it I know of the black dog of which you speak named "vader". He pooped all over my sleeping bag . I love dogs and used to bring mine to the crags but have come to the conclusion that no dog should ever go to the crags. Funny story: I have a 12 pound pomeranian, cocker spaniel mix named "peanut". I brought her to smith once. I had her anchored by a #2RP with a 10 foot sling to the seam at the start of Heinous Cling. A big Rot cam by. Peanut shock loaded the RP more vigourously than any aid cleaning funkness device as she tried to kill the Rot. She literally caught air as she dove for the Rot. Miraculously, the RP held! The echo of the barks filled the entire canyon and was probably heard all the way to the parking lot. Eventually the cloud of dust settled. We could all spray dog stories I bet. And the sport climbers with the little whippets, or grayhounds is so cliche'.

Napalm would be the ticket. If you don't want to much brush , but more hiking time, cross the creek and head up onto the wooded ridge on the other side of the valley. If you don't mind battling brush but want a direct route, Go to the junction 50 yards from chair 8? take the left fork which ends in a clearcut. Drop down on the edge of the clearcut to the creek bottom and follow the creek up into the basin. Last time I was in there, Highlander and I brought jeans, long sleeves, and gloves for the brush and then cached them in the basin. We did the NF car to car. The brush sucked. It would have been worse with skiis on our packs though. I would be curious to know what the time would be if the NF was approached from Price Lake? When the trail meets the end of the lake, cut up right to the base of the NF. I could be way off on my judgement but this might work pretty fast? We really need to all make a nice trail into this side of Shuksan. there are a million "lines of surveyor taper" on both sides of the valley. With a good trail, this would be one of, if not the closest from the car areas from yo yo skiing, serracing, and alpine rock around. And no, a trail would be less environmental impact than the current situation. Everybody going their own way. Bellingham climbers, will you guys take the lead on this one? I'll bet 35 people with machete's, loppers, shovels, and picks could build a nice trail in a weekend. If you look on a map, as a crow flies it is a very, very short distance. PS. OFf the subject but since Fisher Chimney was mentioned, INMHO, Fisher chimneys is proabaly the best route on the mountain. And one of the most classic routes in the state at any grade. I'd be happy to guide this route all season. Plus the bouldering at Lake Ann rocks.