
Jens
Members-
Posts
1872 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Everything posted by Jens
-
I think we (the whole northwest climbing community) should adjust index ratings across the board. Before you spray me, hear me out: I was always taught that usualy ratings should not be changed from the original ascensionist's rating so that the historical signifigance could be maintained. For instance- if "John Doe" chicken wings up some ow horror show on the Elephant Rock in 1959 and calls it the first 5.10, that rating should be respected and left alone for its historical significance (Even if the reigning world cup climbing champion can't even do one move on the route.) Index is a good place to climb but didn't even have Washington's first 5.0, 5.1, 5.2, 5.3, 5.4, 5.5, 5.6, 5.7, 5.8, 5.9, 5.10, 5.11, 5.12, or 5.14 so in that context, none of the climbs' ratings are historical benchmarks. If you look in the back of the Clint Cummin's guidebook, 85% of the the climbs are put up by the same dozen people within a 8-10 year window. ------------ We've all heard the index arguements and spray before. But the fact of the matter is, many of us are well traveled rock climbers. Index indeed has some of the stiffest ratings anywhere. Even a footwork expert... schooled on Bachar horror shows will tell you this if they have climbed at index. I just pulled up an about 12 year old magazine stating that Tom Herbert became the first climber to beta flash a 5.12 at index after a near miss the day before. At the time of writing, can I assume that no one had ever onsighted a .12 at index?. Put the testoterone aside everyone and lets add at least one letter grade to every climb. This can be done by word of mouth. I already do when climbing at index with out of towners. - I will continue to do this. ----- This is perhaps one of the only areas in the country where this is applicable. This argument is also logical for making an area's ratings harder. Think about it --it makes sense. Royal R. would argree Flame away!
-
Load up on the maximum daily dose of Glucosimine/Chondroitin. Take it with food. Keep it at your work home, car, etc. ------ Watch out for everyday stuff that you would never expect to tweak it- mowing yard, carrying bags of groceries, etc. --------- Show up at Marymoor Park for some killer one handed bouldering problems.
-
Look for my full review and specs. in Climbing Magazine to come out sometime around the Dec.15. issue (unless it gets cut).
-
Drop your cocks and grab your socks. CAN ice is in
Jens replied to Pencil_Pusher's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
Cool TR. Any thoughts anyone on if Trans Candanda highway 1 is quicker then cutting over to Spokane and then north? One guy told me he made it to Banff in 9 hours during winter from Seattle (without much speeding). Was he pulling my leg? Also would it be quicker during this time of year to cut north from Spokane or continue about 30 miles east on i-90 before cutting north? -
Ben was perhaps one our areas finest atheletes. Anything he wanted to try he'd did well at. As a partner of his since 93', I don't think I ever heard him complain once. Ben lived his life and dreams to the fullest. He'd give you the shirt off his own back. Jens Klubberud
-
Personally, if given the choice and weight or gear was not an issue,I would rather use only SLCD's for an anchor than only passive pro. You can set up an anchor a couple minutes faster. I like the way cams can sometimes rotate with direction of the pull. Try the same thing with passive pro and the stuff will sometime pop out (unless you've done someelaborate directional rigging). Yes, the cams will often walk or tip out when rotated, but it's better than popping a nut out or something.
-
I wish I had more. ------ I think everyone should own a huge pair of DH boards for haulin' -- even if they only get used about once a year. PS: Isn't the ski speed record from muir to paradise like seven minutes or something? An RMI guide told me the story a long time ago but I forgot the details.
-
The grocery store pass is pretty creative. I wonder which resorts it works at? __________ As for the original question, in my opinion if you have the money to afford a season pass, treat yourself to regualr alpine ski gear. It has been my experience as an 8 year ski instructor that an above average skier with state of the art alpine equipment that is fitted and tuned will ski every bit as good as the most elite 1% of those on AT or tele gear when skiing on in-bounds terrain. (bumps, ice, groomed, etc.)
-
Where are the areas that everytime you visit it feels like you're wearing a weight belt? I do not mean ratings at all-- because ratings vary wildly form area to area. Instead I am speaking to where you fall in relation to the rest of the pack of climbers that are also at the area on any given day. (not that climbing is about being competitive, but I just want to hear some responses). Mine: 1st- Peshastin Pinnacles 2nd- UW rock
-
A pigeon did that to me at the exact place you speak of. A footaball size piece of choss free fell and missed my head by about 4 inches. I didn't even hear it coming. And I don't wear a helmet at cragging areas.
-
We've got more running water and vertical than the other guys but sadly we haven't had the cold much in a long time. Give us the cold like we saw when I was younger and I'll never leave WA to ice climb. I remember living in Ellensburg and the national news had our town as being the coldest spot in the country for 5 days straight.
-
As my brother would say "excuses are like assholes and everybodys got one." If you weren't there: My points sheared through the "foam" while busting an upside down rest. ___________ Kudos to the cascade crags staff for the whole excellent gala and to Wayne for shredding!
-
Why do I always find myself (and see almost everyone else in the PNW) trying to be a season to early for everything? Case in point: *In about October everyone is (myself included) waxing their skis and sharpening their ice tools . One poster said they were hyped for ice by the chill in the air on sept. 20 (not even autumn yet). * Icicle creek canyon is packed with climbers seraching for dry rock in march but in June the place has really cleared out (of climbers at least). * Alpental is almost a ghost town some march days- but packed with people hiking the snow covered stumps in early Nov. *My partners are uninteresed in alpine rock in sept (perhaps the second best month!) There are dozens of other examples. Why do we all do this so bad here in the PNW? I'm just a guilty as the next guy.
-
Man, way to rub it in. Some of us WA folk with families have to wait for Lillooet. ____ And dru, do know the approx. elevations for most of the Phair creek gems? I've always wanted a USGS style map for all the Lillooet canyons but never been able to find one? Anyone have any ideas? (Other than driving to Vancouver.)
-
Wow! This is one of the best threads in a long time. ______ As someone earlier said, after people hit the 5-7 year mark they usually tend to be lifers beause climbing is a metaphor for life. _____ I don't have any research to back this up, but the vast majority of people that I have known who have quit climbing were spending most of their time bouldering and sport climbing. I'm not saying anything bad about those activities as I consider myself a sport climber. ______ I go through 2-3 year phases with my climbing. I may really get hooked on ski mountaineering for a couple of years doing it tons then almost cease the activity and move on to aid climbingand walls or "V" plastic pulling . Climbing is so diverse, you can "quit"part of it but still be climbing in some way shape or form . Thanks for all the great posts. Ireally enjoyed reading everyone's stuff.
-
A welcome alternative to a tent, maybe. But hunkered down in a foggy, damp, dark frozen cave with 4 inches of standing slush on the floor isn't my idea of enjoyment. It's certainly great to have it available as an option, and it may even save your toes in bad conditions, but winter climbing on Rainier is very different from summer. Unless you've been on Denali, you'll never know that kind of cold. I promise you that. I guess I should have used another word as winter mountaineering would seldom be called enjoyable when you are really cold. As for the hut, the real pain for me seems to be other climbers snoring and stuff. P.S. Thanks for the beta. I've summited Rainier in Winter and Denali
-
Gib ledges. If you go Sunday- Monday during a weather window, you might even get lucky enough to find some steps put in. And I've found that sleeping in the Muir hut in winter can actually be enjoyable when no one else is up at muir.
-
Was climbing up the 5.11 pocket route at the now defunct Ted's Wall at Fossil rock and shoved my fingers palm out into a undercling drilled pocket. I cranked back on the pocekt and heard the pocket creak like a piece of wood. I felt something fuzzy and looked in to see that I had shoved my fingers into a little bat! It didn't bite me though.
-
Saw the very first cc sticker on a car recently!
-
If the only thing you lack is avy knowledge..... If you have any backcountry ski buddies that know avy assemsent, teach em' crecasse rescue and take em'. Chances are they already in good shape, know how do deal with Cascade winter storms, know how to self arrest, and are not afraid of steep snow. good luck.
-
Alex and Jason did a first class job on the guide and definitely did their homework. I wonder how they got Jeff Renner to talk about what makes good ice conditons? I know Jeff has done some climbing-- perhaps a cc'er has tied in with him. Ps. Tom Brokaw and the Pope are or "were" also climbers.
-
I'd say yes under the conditions where this shortcut is really practical. In early season conditions no napalm/agent orange is needed. Later in the season you've probably got more to deal with than what a near-the-road defoliation session can address anyway. Yes, for much of the climbing season my brush is a non issue. As for taking the lower swithcback down the road as was mentioned by Phil, you can avoid much of the brush taht way but it is a slower route time wise and it always seems like such a psycholgical drag to start hiking down hill AND down a road away from the route to start your climb. I don't think we need to clear a short path but if everyone starts cutting in at the same spot (by a little clearing where people often pitch a tent), this will soon become a non issue. (Flagging tape anyone?). ------------------- The 37 switchback trail is one of the flattest anywhere.
-
Dad was afraid of heights but would still belay me. In my midteens I climbed Rainier with him and made fun of how slow he was going for most of the way. I'd sprint and then wait, sprint...then wait. After awhile though, the tables began to turn. He only seemed to get stronger as I got progressively more wasted. Never count dad out!
-
I wish.... that we could all get together and clear the 300 yards of annoying brush that goes from the parking lot upper picnic table to the clearing for the climber's route to Cascade pass. It is so short and it would be absolutely zero envornmental impact. It is such a drag to suit up for 10 minutes of burly brush and then strip down after entering the clearing. Anbody else do this different then I do (after all the snow is gone)? Would the park service ever sanction this? --------- PS. For those that think that everyone should stay on the trail all the way, there is , old pieces of cable, and ancient mule trails all over up there (mostly between 4,000-4,800 ft.) - so the impact of taking this shortcut is neglible. The tourist trail is ridiculously slow (37 swithcbacks). __________ perhaps this post will direct more traffic through the bushes and clear a path? ___________ Any thoughts? What do others do? The clearing can be accesed brush free from the lower hairpin but it is slower. ____
-
If you just want to get pissed on, just go to index. It seems like one little cloud has always hung over that place. Start watching Renner's little doppler blip. Clear state but sprinklin' at index. Stays wet way more days than N. Bend. Did they ever get rid of that REI storm simulator to test new rain shells? Did they ever actually let anyone try it?