Jens

Just out of curiousity, what are some votes for the biggest horizonital or near horizontal roof that anyone has seen in Washington? I don't mean just an overhang-- but instead a horizontal-like celling. I was going to post the question in the rock climbing forum but I'll bet our answer probably is found somwhere in the high mountains where many of the crags rats don't go. I'm thinking Dolomite style roofs that jut way out from the wall. I don't care if the roofs are climbable or not, I'm just curious for the sake of interest. What are some possible contenders? (even if you've just seen em' through binoculars).

I'm glad this area has been developed. These style routes are the norm just about everywhere except WA. As for the fixed cable draw at the lip (which is way long). It should be removed just to help keep these routes slightly lower on the visibilty radar. I haven't tried the M9 but as for the rating, I am a little skeptical and plan on trying it with spurs in nov,or dec.

Climbed it about 3 weeks ago. We placed a couple of wired nuts and had to do a little rock climbing. I would imagine their will be a few more rock moves to bypass b.s.?

I try to avoid the politics but this is quite sad. Dwayner brings a perspective on climbing through the decades. Myself as a young rock climbing teenage upstart in the 80's, Dwayner's stories fueled the fire for me and many other younger climbers. His tales of adventure led many to go on to pursue adventures into the ranges. Dwayer would always bring the perspective of adventure to life. Whether it be a tale of huge falls on scary nail ups or getting lost in caves. And to be honest, I've seen Dwayner in days of yore climb stuff in a pair of 3 dollar flip flops that probably most of those who despise him on this site would fall off in their rock shoes.

I just talked to a dude at Marymoor a couple of hours ago that was on the route at the time (right next to the above mentioned party). He said the dude fell right past him, hit a ledge and flew about fifteen feet out and kept sailing. He said that some rather large rocks came down with him. ???

my two cents * climbing finger injuries are so unique,doctors don't have much knowledge. *Spend some time in a pair of aiders, slog some peaks,do some skiing, or see if it hurts grabbing ice tools. *After suffering at least a dozen pretty major finger injuries in my life, I have come to the conclusion that once you are well, stay away from tape. Working at the gym, I've noticed that people who tape for prevention often come up hurt later. * Costco Glucosimine/chondroditn has seem to help me a little bit. * Peer pressure is what leads to injuries. If your buddies are saying send it dude, addrenline kicks in and you end up tweaked. The brain tells the carcas to perform harder than it can. It'ssuch a catch- 22. You need it though to grab the top out or clip the chains.

Depends on the brand. The metolius cams walk tons with very little pressure so I sometimes error on the overcam side when I am using em'.

It's 9:30am Sunday. I've got the part I need now. If anybody is going anywhere on North Cascades Highway anytime today, I'd love a ride to even Marblemount (you pass through it). I'll meet you wherever you want for pickup It would be money in the Karma bank account for your next epic Jens Klubberud Renton/Issaquah

Emergency If anybody is going anywhere off North Cascades Highway anytime today I need a lift to Marblemount or even better Cascade Pass. I had to ditch my car at Cascade Pass yesterday so I could come back today with the part I have now it needs to run. I will pay for the gas, buy you a meal en route, and swap some good cascade folklore. I could meet you anywhere you want today. You'd be a lifesaver and it would be good Karma for you next epic. Jens Klubberud Renton/Issaquah pm me

Emergency. Tonight I had to ditch my car at Cascade Pass and hitchhike home. I know exactly what part I need to throw in and it will run. Is anybody heading up there tomorrow (Sunday 9/14)? If I could catch a ride, I'd buy you lunch, pay for gas,and share somegreat climbing stories. If you are not going, do you know of a friend that is going? I have to hit the auto parts store when they open tomorrow. There is one on the way in rockport or I could go to a store before I met you. I could meet at your place or meet you at any park and ride. You'd be a lifesaver if you were going. Jens Klubberud Reton/ Issaquah jensandjeanetteSPAMLESS@earthlink.net or pm me. Or even if you were heading anywhere else in the N.Cascades you could dump me at Marblemount and I could probably hitchike to the parking lot. I added the phrase "spamless" to Jens' email address, you'll want to remove it to write to him. -- Off White

Belay tests take 2 minutes and are done on an ATC. As for the instruction thing, I've seen climbers that take a new girlfriend/boyfriend into the gym that has never climbed before- they try give them a sneak 2 minute crash course in belaying over by the water fountain or bathroom. They then expect the new boyfriend/girlfriend to take the belay check.

Cool who nabbed the ski? That was one I wanted. My advice for the couloir is keep movin. I got avalanched by calving shit a long time ago and only survived by diving blindly into a bottomless moat on the side.

I could count three seperate fire plumes while spending yesterday climbing Buckner's North face. It was pretty odd because in the afternoon the smoke had created a haze all around us. It made my lack of sleep hallucinations even more wild.

I hope he will get well soon. Weird crap can happen on any slab fall, even if you employ all the two man belay tricks and other Hall of Mirrors trickery for belaying.

I seem to always see dipshit driving being done by people in newer Subarus. (not aggressive driving but just stupid driving). More than just about any other vehicles. I'm mostly referring to the newer outbacks and forresters- not so much the people driving the older ones. It seems to be a trend that me and many of my friends have noticed over the last couple of years. And no, I didn't just get cut off this morning by a ru'. I don't neccesarrily claim to be good driver myself but anybody else see the same things? What type of person is the typical subaru driver? I'm sure there are a few of you reading this who drive new subarus awesome and are getting pissed. Its not you I am referring to. It is just uncanny.

We may have voted to give the schools more money (they need it bad), but when it comes time to ante up, the legistlature won't give the schools the money the voters have approved (WA ranks 42nd out of 50 states in education spending). We don't give schools squat in this state.

I dig WC forged friends Just my 2 cents worth: They are: *light *predictable loading -great for when you are pumped *last forever *patented cam angle that is unmathced (bd had to build a 2 axle unit ). *stable don't walk as much as metoluis or cc alliens *Numbered in a way that makes sense *Cheap - I just pro dealed a #4 for 18 bucks. The list price is $29! *Huge expansion range (2nd only to bd) * The hortizontal edge is issue is almost never a problem. You can bury the unit deep enough if you need to. * Easier to clean than flexible units. * Cams that are fat enough for soft rock types but aren't obscenely fat. We all have strong opinions about our gear. To each his own.

Shucks used to carry fake stereo face covers that looked like old plastic am radios. --------------------- At least one of my partners uses the leave nothing in the car and leave it unlocked theory. Not bad logic (ever seen how quick a slim jim works!) At least you don't get trashed windows. ________ Snow creek parking lot dialogue: "Where you guys headed?" " OUTER SPACE- WE'VE BEEN WANTING TO DO IT FOR YEARS". "Great climb, have fun you two.... heh heh."

Add those to the list! Hypothetically if one was to visit all WA and OR climbing areas the list is up to 18 different fees? And we are not even looking at B.C. Cascade climbing areas. Can anyone think of more to add to the list? My point is made and I am done spraying.

Peter, you are correct... the areas are not really threatened to anyone willing to pay the possibly upcoming $35 per dollar a year fee. I hyped up the post title a little to get more views. Also my math was a little fuzzy but here is some food for thought: A marymoor season parking permit is $50 bucks. A workday parking pass to the UW practice rock lot islikely over a $100 just for one student quarter. You got me for exxataing but not by much. If one were to buy all 16 or so, the bill would be very high.

I'm not saying we should buy into these pay to plays but here is a funny thought: I climbed with a dude about a week ago who told me that in England (where he was from) their are literally hundreds of little semi-informal climbing clubs. ____ I guess if we had hundreds of little clubs here we coud.... Each year, the club could purchase the 16 or so annual passes to all of the above areas mentioned. Passes and permits could be shared by all club members. Cool idea but then I guess that would just be supporting more demo fees. ____ Not to beat this into the ground anymore but I will be prophet.... By 2008 the permit list will have jumped from 16 to 30! Don't believe me? pull up this thread in 2008 (if cc still exists).

I wish to add something to my initial post: It is not six different types of fees or permits that I was supposed to have paid but fourteen (14)! Over a 10 year period we are talking 10-12 thousand dollars! I listed them all under the next thread about fees.

Just a few needed to climb in the pnw: (Some of them may have gone to the wayside?) 1. National Forest Trail Park Pass 2. Oregon Sno- park permit 3. WA Sno-Park permit 4.Mt.St. Helens climbing fee 5. Beacon Rock climbing/parking fee (put stub on dash) 6.Enterance fee to Mt.Rainier national park 7. Fee for going onto any glacier in Mt.Rainier NP. (climbing fee) 8.Optional season pass for MT. Rainier climb. 9.Car enterance fee to access upper parts of BakerSki area during summer (checkpoint - A couple of years ago still in use?) 10.Washington State Parks Pass 11. Marymoor Parking Fee 12. UW rock parking Fee 13. Fish and game parking sticker (to climb at Vantage and Tieton) 14. Assorted bivy and or campground fees (various areas) 15. Smith rock parking fee 16. I am sure their are at least five more than are escaping my mind right now.

I was on top of 4th of July crag once and counted seven rattlers all sunning themselves at the top of the routes. A dude was climbing one of the routes, luckily for him we weren't mean enough to flick the snakes down on him with a stick. I've never heard of "Diving Diamondback". Is it new?

The mt. shop has the updates on the spring. Be preapred to have company on the route.