Jens

Anybody try the ski jumping at Leavenworth? I'd love to try it. If I stayed way forward on my monster DH boards would I be OK, (anotherwards is the jump not that big)? Anybody check it out?

Slogged a ways in with Cascadeclimber on sunday but we had to turn around due to the fact that we lost a snowshoe in the river. The postholling was to hard for me for my weak body. It was 39F at 4 in in themorning. I was in a short sleeveshirt. It was colder at Banks.

We lost a Tubbs snowshoe in the tumwater river 75 yards downstream from the large pullout on the river side of highway 2 that is exactly 1mile up stream from the candy shop. If you are getting out the car to stretch,take a pee, or look at ice through binoculars, please take a second to peekover the side and see if you see anything washed up on the shore or in the water.Thanks Jens Klubberud

Climbed at Banks on Sunday and Monday. On Monday ChrisS and I changed our strategy and went for ice that was tucked in away from sun. Lots of fun! It was my first time going to Banks after going to Lillooet all these years. Boy do I feel stupid! Banks looks like it has the potential for much harder lines then Lillowet.

Did a little climbing with him this summer. The dude is as fit as some of my partners who are in their 20's! (He's 60).

I only have time to read conditions stuff these days, but did Dwayner really get banned for simply championing his climbing style (the style that let Americans become the best climbers in the world for very short window before the advent of sport climbing)? Who cares if his golden age ethics were inserted into every discussion including mixed ice climbing? Dwayner has climbed a lot of stone in his day and brings a tremedous breadth of knowledge and historical perspective to cc. Bring him back if he really is banned.

I'll confess I haven't read all of this thread but I think this guy is awesome. This guy could suffer his way up a himalayan giant. Kind of like Polish high altitude climbers. Not necessarily talented climbers but instead just able to endure "In the end, we are better at the art of sufferng, and for high altitude, this is everything."- Voytek Kurtyka Sounds like this Alpental skiier has a Polish name? ------------------ I think it is an amazing story of survival and it would be cool if he could post. Somebody teach him to self-arrest and invite him to Everest?

Not that I am a route guru, but it seems like ND sports dry tooling and cramponing on rock for the a failry long portion of the start most years of yore. If you were able to kick into ice at the start, you found great conditions? I wonder if the bolts were iced over (obscured) all the way? I think I'm headin' to Lillooet this weekend. ------- We are sure due for a year where we WA folk can stay down here and not have to go north. Is this planet gettin' warmer or what? High around 40F near Banks. Slushy slides up tumwater canyon drainages?

Wow, that was the best post of the last 12 months. Hopefully Lionel's pictures will someday make it to the University of Washington. _________ If my memory serves me, I noticed a bit of an optical illusion from the false summit area. It looks as it could be forever to the true summit area---but it isn't as far once you do it. ____ What a noble deed by Dr.Trott

I've never climbed at Franklin Falls but looking at my map, would it be quicker to approach from the snowed over access road that starts near the alpental I-90 exit. Could you glide down the road on a pair of skis and be at the falls in 10minutes? Or am I dreaming or reading my map wrong? The reason I ask is--- would this work for some quick afternoon after- work action? Also how did the stuff near the east end of exit 38 look? I was up there a few days ago and it was pretty grim.

They were out looking for him again today.

Wow crux- great post. Does anyone know if the laminate- lined WB 400 stuff still has the four way strecth like the Dryskin extreme does? The reason I ask is that when the companies invented windstopper- style laminates in the 90's they all seemed to cut way down on the stretch of those fleece garmets.

Does anyone know the schedule for when the lake is drained to the point where the boulders are accesible? Even though I have been climbing out there off and on over the years it seems like it is kind of hit or miss with the water level. You drive the four miles to see. I was out there yesterday and had a blast

Thanks. This is a huge deal for WA climbers. As big as any I can think of in recent times.

So what it is the combo?

I stretch a lot mostly while watching TV etc. Stretching may not help you climb that much better but makes climbing more fun as you can incorporate more of an element of artistry to your climbing moves. Being flexible does kick butt for stemming between pillars and placing a screw though!

Amen

ChrisS and I didn't see a single other climber the entire weekend except for a dude who showed up by himself an hour before dark at marble on Saturday. All the climbs that we did were relativley well formed. Perhaps some of the more recent reports on the Lillooet conditions were to keep the crowds away as temps have if anything been the same or warmer for the last few weeks? _________ On Sunday the last climb of the day for us was a 1 pitch route about 10 minutes off the road on the Duffey Lake Road. It was east of Carl's Berg but west of Loose Lady. It was on the same side of the highway as loose lady. The route had a funky stump hanging out of rock cliff with a red sling near the top. The route was clearly visible from the road and mostly vertical. We saw indications of traffic from the day before. Anybody know what the nameof the route is? Or its history? (Not in the guide or on the web site) It was a lot of fun.

I'm no engineer but it seems like they have the "green" in the wrong place. Would Ray Jardine say that when placed toward the end of the green dots, the units are way way way overcamed? They sure look like it to me. Granted metolius cams may be slightly different, but their cam angle is in the same ballbark as manyof the other manufacturers cams.

DFA- I'll take the bait. Yes it did rub me wrong. The article said the guy had never placed a cam in his life. Many of these routes that are being free climbed have a lot of in-place gear and draws. For instance when I cleaned my partner's lead of the great roof pitch on the Nose, I noticed that a free climber wouldn't need to place anything- Just like a sport climb. Look at the photo of Yuji in the mag.

I took a 20 footer on a screw when I was young and slightly more stupid then I am now. The catch was actually fairly soft- nothing but air.

I have a home wall in my garage. My two cents: Make it steeper than you think. It might not be as realistic but it will be less boring and will see more use over the long haul. Go random with your T-nut holes. Start loooking for mattresses now. Homemade wooden holds kick butt-and are used by the world's best. Get good tunes going! Have fun

I am looking for a partner to ice and or mixed climb at Lillooet this Sunday and Monday (11/30-12/1). I am very familiar with the area. Anyone game?

I think it has helped me. When I was working at a gym and bouldering way to much my weak carcass had lots of twings, twangs, and pops. When I went on the max dose, the twangs quieted somehwhat. Take it with food. Take the max dose every day. Ibuprofen can be dangerous, there is no harm in glucosimine. Jens Klubberud

In this last year, being a parent has really cut into my climb time and fitness level. If anyone has any tips for sneaking out for more climbing let me know. Mine are: *Always keep gear in the trunk of your car so you can go on a moments notice- Even if it is just for a one hour bouldering session. * Be flexible with plans.