Jens

Warning: This thread is long and boring After just getting back from exit 38 and also going to index a couple of days ago, I have some real concerns: Please correct me if anyone has more knowledge of the pending situations. Exit 38 situation: A few years back I noticed that whenever I would head to the actual cave/amazonia/ or other high Mt. Washington crags, I would pass a secret clicker/ counter hidden in the bushes that had been installed by WA state parks. WA state parks was trying to measure the number of users entering the area. As result of the count, they decided to make the area a fee area in which you must purachse a WA state parks annual pass ($35 to use the area). As a result, climber usage of amazonia, the actual cave, and the high mt. WA crags fell drasitcally. Now, climbers are instead flocking to the trestle, deception., and amazonia areas because of not wanting to risk a very large ticket. Also many of the hikers are using the climber lot at the base of the trestle to access the hiking that they used to go to from the other area for the same reasons as the climbers. The WA state park people are onto this parking loophole. Well sure enough today, I noticed about 10 yards up the trail from the car at the trestle area, the WA state parks people have newly placed a counter with a note attached saying basically that anyone who tries to block this counter (stating specifically "rock climbers" are idiots.). This count will be used to justify making the trestle area a lot fee area soon. For those of you that say you will just park on the road a few yards down, I will guarantee you that no parking signs will be placed along the length of this road from off ramp to off ramp. For those of you that hate 38, (it is really a great place to blow of 90 minutes of steam after work when it gets dark early). Now we all have sprayed about fees etc. plenty on this board and I have remained relatively quiet until today. Thinking back to the places I have climbed in the last 2 years, I can think of at least seven different types of passes, parking permits, bivy permits etc. that I was supposed to have purchased to access the areas. When will the madness stop? In a couple of years, we will be up to a dozen or so different types of parking permists, bivy permits,sno park permits, etc. It gets worse every year. ___________ Index situation: I was at the index parking lot a couple of days ago and a WA state park truck pulled in and out jumped two rangers with a large box in their hand that looked like it could another clicker/counter. They headed for the woods. They'll put in a shitter, garbage can, and slap a fee sign up, and put no parking signs along the river? _______ Last but not least: To put this into perspective, I live right by the WA state parks parking lot for squak mt. off may valley road. Now that they have made it a fee area, none of the locals that need the excerscise go their anymore. The place that once was popular is now a ghost town. It is kind of working class neighborhood. People just trying to pay the mortage each month can't afford the fee. I see a ranger drive all the way out just to right tickets and go home once a day. Stop the insanity I am torn.... Do we promote stewardship as advocated by the Access Fund or take other means? We need to be viewed as a responsible user group but you have to wonder...

A crag might be a singular rock climbing formation or outcrop that does not end in a summit and is not considered big enough to be a "wall".

If BD ever decides to stop making the regular ATC I hope they will tell us so I can buy a lifetime supply of them. I like it better than any of the devices mentioned although I haven't tried the Trango B52 yet.

Does anybody know anything about the bronze memorial placque partway up swim at index?

It looks like I can sneak out for a little bit to climb at either WW 2 or WW 1 at little si tomorrow morning and quit about 2:30 or 3pm. It will be warm but slightly less greasy than index. Anyone else not working midweek and game?

Wayne is the real deal. He's Mr. Solid as I found out on a previous attempt of the thing. Cut the guy some slack. He's psyched!

I'm glad the trail is getting pretty well established up there. Did you guys see any black bear sign? A couple of weeks ago there was evidence the place was crawling with em'. __ As for the descent gully off inspiration, somebody's rope got eaten and is still hanging up there.

If you trying to learn chimney technique, I would stay with granite for right now as the other areas (vantage, etc.) often let you use face holds inside the chimney. Between buildings works great. Next time you head up to Givler's dome in Leavenworth, head about 5 minutes to the right. About 30 feet left of Mastadon roof is a short widecrack that works you though all of the techniques and gets easier the higher you get. Plus it has pine needle/dirt landing so you could go over to it and clmb by yourself for an hour and really get the techniqe dialled. For chimneys, relax and take your time. Rest every move if you can. ______________ And even though I told you to go to granite, at Vantage, there is a 5.10 bolted chimney called "satan" that is one of the best routes at the place. Not like the entablature sport , trad crack, and column sport routes that all seem the same after a while (same schema of moves).

Croft's solo ridge run has almost become mythical in how often it is talked about in Cascade climbing circles. I seemed to remember reading an interview with Croft in an old rock &ice about it. I think he started up the complete north ridge to start the enchainment. I think he described the crux as some lichen covered rock between sherpa and argonaut? If you stay on the crest of the ridge their is a lot of gnarly real estate between sherpa and argonout and it is about a hortizontal mile. Definitely the time consuming part of the trip due to the fact that their are probalby two dozen little towers blocking your way. As a sidenote, we often erroneously use "traverse" interchnageably with ridge run or enchainment around here. for a euro style enchainement, you must stay on the crest the whole time and negociate towers. A traverse can take on a much more broad and less technical definition (valley end runs etc.). I'm done with my soapbox now. Have fun and watch out for snaffs

Mt. Formidable is about the coolest mountain in the area plus it is not to much a diversion as far as distance. Have fun!

One rope was just fine for getting off as of a couple years ago.

in my humble opinon, If their ropes are half as good as all the other stuff they have been making for the last century you will be fine. (They make better packs than anyone on this continent.) And nothing could be worse than a bluewater rope.

I agree!

I prefer other areas to index but when I do go there, espcially midweek I have seen some odd scavenging. Last time I was there I watched a dude go way way out of his way to go after a pin that had been fixed on a free route ( I think the pin had been a fixture for decades)? --It wasn't iron horse though. I didn't confront the dude because he looked pretty psycho and didn't say anything when I said hi earlier. I've also saw the dude climbing the g/n slab with a hammer and assumed he was looking for any booty. A lot of scavenging goes on out at index (sadly even old webbing). Plus the place is a magnet for weirdos. I hear the ringing of hammer a lot over in the g/n and roger's corner areas.

What up Wayne, There is an outside chance I've got some time this midweek through the weekend to be out in the hills. -From Wednesday night to Sunday night (4 days). If you get an offer from somebody to leave Tuesday, definitely jump on it though.

Scotchguard rocks on gore tex. I quit using it though after seeing all the scary stuff on TV about it. Linked to testicular cancer! I would say if you are a girl, definitely use it.

Or perhaps the insole sucks? Try tinkering with the lacing method and put in some different insoles. Maybee I'm an oddball but I like em'. In my humble opinion they climb rock and walk better then any of the high end ice boots. They climb rock and walk better than my 39 ounce c. fiber ice comps that sportiva gave me.

Little T rocks. Its got some of my favorite ski mountainerring and scenery around. It's seems to be a mystery why it goes begging for climbers and skiiers? Especially since it is the sixth volcano and one of Washington's highest mountains. Not a sattelite of Rainier.

Amen brotha Try timing an after work commute to either of the Ballard gyms from Kent! You are looking at least 75 minutes on a bad day. I think I'd rather run up west tiger cable line or something.

Bring your skiis. I ran in for a tooth climb early this morning and noticed that if you wanted you could actually get some great skiing in if you wanted. I hope those cool new mixed climbs (above source lake) don't attract to much attention from wilderness types.

Good luck. I couldn't find any spare replacements for some older flexible friends. (This was about 10 months ago.)

I 've always liked both the photos, and the drawings in the Smoot books. I also like the little mini pargraph about each route.

Definitely a better weekend for cragging. My weather radio said that the freezing level was supposed to get up to 13,000 feet.

I was high on icicle buttress once and watched a dude look in all my windows of my car and check to see if the doors were locked. Maybee he wanted my jacket and stuff that was inside. If I scream at him, he'll know I can't get him and take his time. If I throw rocks it'll hit my car! ---- Not to drift away from your thread, but I hope you get your stuff back. If you don't, karma will catch up with the dude who took your stuff. He'll die wearing it while avalanched or something.