Jens

all gone except for the shoes. Went fast.

Would anybody on the planet do this forme: I like it when the cams have a doulbed length sewn sling so you can have the sewn sling extended or short. I prefer wc rigid friends. Every comapny tells me that the hole on the wc cams is to small to accomadate the doulbed sling feature. But now with the super skinny mammut slings, it would be possilbe. Am I just a few years to early for this? and does mammut have a monoply on the razor skinny spectra slings? ____ btw mt.tools has done good work for me in the past.

I've got a sweet Lafuma 42 and a huge mothership expedtion pack but nothing in between (which I occasionally need). Anybody got an old pack in between these sizes to sell for real real cheap? I would only use this pack perhaps once a year beacause my style is not to bivouac-- so I don't care if the pack is already pretty trashed. I'm looking for a top loading narrow style pack without many bells or whistles that would fit a guy with a short torso. I would prefer a : Lafuma, Millet,Mammut,marmot,BD, wildcountry,wild things, gregory,lowe, or McHale pack. I do not want a Mountainsmith, dana-design, Kelty, REI ,or Osprey. Anybody want to help out a poor climber and meet at the Marymoor practice rock? I'd also trade stuff. Thanks Jens Klubberud

* #0 tcu $14 *#2 yellow camalot (orig.style) $17 *#3 blue camalot (orig.style) $17 *2 new style spectra slung WC rocks (used once) $4 each *Sharma 5.15 anasazi lace- up rock shoes (decent shape) for US men street shoe of 81/2 or 9. $40. *REI mountain axe 2 (smc shuksan axe) $20 Prefer to meet @ marymoor rock afternoons

Depends on if the area favors pure friction or edging. The best I ever had was a pair of green asolo runouts that had the edging midsole removed and were resoled with the stealth 2 rubber. The 5.10 friction loafer was said to be pretty good? I think that stealth2 may have been the best all time slab rubber but I think you would have a hard time finding it now. C4 was created to be slightly more edging oriented as slab climbing isn't cool anymore. Anyone try the brand new stealth high fricition rubber? One of the local resolers told me he thought it wears down way to fast.

Yeah it rocks Gotta love 11worth! Hit snow creek wall, bouldered in the icicle, & finished off at castle yesterday. Weathermen wrong again. Where is the cheapest real estate in or near town? 11worth has it all.

Buy the Petzl Meteor, Simond -w. face shield,or the Grivel Cap- w. face shield if you want to look like a Stylin' Euro Uber climber. When mixed climbing, be sure to flip the shield down casually as needed as if you are blowing chalk "Edlinger" style on a rock route or- Buy a Neon Yellow Edelrid if you are joining the mounties (standard issue) and be sure to put your athleitc tape name tag on the front as you preach to your group about a "dangerous" technique that a climber at the same crag is using.

Just got pulled over by a trooper on Bluett pass heading over to crag at 11worth on Monday. He let me off. Try- *short hair *no piercings *when you get pulled over at night, turn on the dome light. *put one hand on the wheel and the other hanging out the window or both hands on the window if it is cold or raining-never move around in the vehicle. *look em' in the eye *take off sunglasses and cap *drive an American car or perferrably an American pickup *be polite * If you are east of the crest, don't have a "coastie" address on your license. _____ I used to climb with "priapism" a lot in the early 90's-- that dude gets outta everything! He even got let go and scolded for a DUI when I was riding with him on the bleuet cutoff (through the orchard shortcut) after a 11worth climbing and drinking spree. He would get pulled over tons and never get tickets. A dude I work with has been pulled over 11 times and never gotten a ticket.Much of my above advice is from him. Best thread in a long time. ____ We made it toYosemite in a little over 11 hours once

the later.

Soloed 14 pitches at castle today, then climbed MFdirect,damnation,& devil's fright with James "crack" (not cracked),and then proceeded to get my ass spanked at swiftwater for about 45 minutes. And I would have gladly traded my budlight for your merlot. How was the approach to the molegroup? Which way did you go? PS.traffic sucked on i-90 going home!

Mine: (somewhat climbing related) 1. Those who don't follow the "slower traffic keep right" for those of us driving to our climbs. 2.OR Seattle Sombrerro Hats 3. Subaru Drivers 4. Sleeping at parking lots of trailheads 5. Those that drive 5mph down the middle of the Cascade River Road or any similar road and won't let us through (happens ALL the time.) 6. Unleashed dogs at the crags or on the trails 7.Some of the newish long multipitched bolted climbs that have more clips than moves (don't ask me which ones). 7. AT gear or backcountry tele gear at lift areas and staying "in bounds". 8.Rangers that pretend to be nice so that they can really find out what rules we broke and what permits we didn't have and then nail us. and last but not least: 9. A "first ski descent" where some of the skiing was belayed and/ or sections were rapped.-not even considered a FSD in my book.

And ...reports of snow falling on pavement at I-90 snoqualmie pass very very early this morning. (or at least that is what the morning news said.) I'd put my chips on that we are looking at 18" or so of new snow and elevated avy danger at popular destiantions (like lets say any given Rainier climb-which a lot of people have on their minds at this time of year). Be careful out there.

-never heard of anybody repeating that givler's thing. One guy who did a bunch of hangdogging on it mentioned to me that it felt more like .13?

We always talk about particular routes that are harder if you are short, but never the opposite. What are some local climbs that are quite simply much easier for shorter climbers? I thought that this might be good food for thought? One that really stands out: (i'm only 5'7") Brass Balls Care to start adding to the list? Some say that overhangs, cracks, underclings,gastons, and limestone favor shorter climbers-- whereas vertical routes, slab routes, granite face routes, iron cross moves, stemming between towers, and dynamics favor taller climbers. Any thoughts?- local routes?

Has anyone ever skiied this route from the summit area? Did Ben and crew ski from the notch? I jogged in for a short evening solo Saturday and couldn't help but notice that the their was enough snow above the notch to be skiied. Anyone have any idea?

I dunnno maybee.... Chimney Rock. Cool area... cool icefall-closest real glacier to Seattle (as a crow flies?) Any map experts? Little Mac Spire (the best of the three Mc. Spires in the Pickets inmho). Rock- Easter Overhang or Dagobah system (midnight)

It is a great idea but I think they screwed up? The far edge of the green would lose some holding power. I would be curious to see how much pull testing was done? I wish Ray Jardine was reading he could back me up on this. Anone in the know?

WC forged friend- Best cam available. It would be even better if you could find someobody to tie those skinny little mammut slings (doubled) through the hole for two different clipping options. Is that a couple years off?

If you are going do that route in a day, have a good line to calm the nerves of all the people you are going have to pass. Or don't say anything at all. When I was on that route we had at least 3 parties behind us and bunch more ahead of us. Have fun.

* Castle or Midnight Rock in Leavenwworth on a cool but sunny late fall morning. Smell of pines and dusting of snow on the ridgetops. * Mt.Shuksan

38 sucks but I still climb at the trestle area or nevermind a lot because if I have only 3 hours to kill door to door,I can get a lot of pitches in. And 38 is 100 times better than a pracice rock or pulling plastic indoors in my humble opinion. Once it took me 1 hour and 45minutes to get to index! (from Renton/Issaquah) -traffic. I've darn near made it Leavenworth in that time. ____ 38 has climbs up to 5.13 (hard enough for anyone on this Bboard)

Ever thought about going back and taking the mandatory air to the climber's right of the constriction? It would be about a 35-40 foot launch. Hairball in the mountains but seen at lift areas a lot. Right now a yardsale landing might even be OK becasue the schrund is filled in.

Loren & I's plan was to climb the NW face couloir but we didn't see any ice hardly at all on the thing so we we went for this climb instead. I think the picture just made it look like ice? Forrest, If you guys climbed it last year under these conditions, nice work. (And I at least consider myself a wannabee M-number chaser) Kind of weird how freeze-thaw makes ice up there. Another new possible line I have been scouting up there had less ice on it then I have seen June 1st of another year.

Nice climbing!

I agree 100%. I think it is the best truly moderate multi-pitch route in the state.