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jason_h's Achievements


Gumby (1/14)



  1. My bad...I'm referring to enchainment, not traverse. As I am looking to climb the easier routes up and especially down Sherpa and Argo within a reasonable distance of the east and west ridges. And what the connection between Argo and Colchuck is like from that side.
  2. Yeah, I think that was where I first read about it. It's more of just a trip report though. Doesn't say too much about what routes he took and what the downclimbing was like.
  3. It would make sense, eh? But for some reason I think Croft skipped it. But, yeah it may get added on too. So any beta out there?
  4. Has anyone here done it-starting at Stuart, and heading over Stuart, Sherpa, Argonaut, Colchuck and Prusik? I believe Peter Croft did it in a day, has any one else? Any beta, especially on the routes up/descents on Sherpa and Argonaut.
  5. What is the current camping situation up in Squamish right now? I spent the summer there two years ago when the Logger's Lane Gypsy Camp was there, but since that has been closed down are there any options other than the Chief Campground?
  6. Lambone, perhaps you could give her a lesson in retreating. You seem to be pretty good at it. It takes serious skills to bail off one of the easiest routes on El Cap, how many times?
  7. Damn. Sounds like I may have to X the N Face of Witch's out of the little black book soon. I've scoped it some too, it looks cool, though wet 'till later in the summer. Have fun.
  8. I've climbed Witches Tower, I don't remember which route though. We climbed it after finishing the Backbone on Dragontail. I don't really know what kind of beta you are looking for, from what I remember, we descended off of the back of Dragontail down into the basin below and then hiked over and up a fairly steep snowslope to the SW? buttress/ridge and then soloed maybe 4 pitches to the summit. It was like around 5.5 and the rock was excellent and the view really cool. No way I would hike in just to climb it, but it is a worthwhile to do after a route on Dragontail. I don't think it gets done often(at all) as there were no rap anchors or any signs of climbers, so bring some stuff to leave if you're gonna rap anywhere.
  9. Here are a few more routes that probably won't have as many crowds- The Delicate Sound of Thunder Our Father Cloud Tower Rock Warrior Triassic Sands(could be popular) Sour Mash Refried Brains The Great Red Book Have Fun!
  10. Rattlesnake is not too far away and has some really fun routes, and quite a few of them. Also, there are a few smaller areas nearby. Greensprings perhaps, and a bouldering area too I think. Plus Castle Crags isn't too far, nor are the NorCal coastal areas. But, the mtn biking is super right outside Ashland. For more info ask DFA, he went to school there. There is also a Southern Oregon Climbers guide that has these areas in it.
  11. I've done TRL with a partner, it's a good route, like 9+ C2. Like mentioned above I think it would be a bit of a pain to solo as there is a lot of free climbing, the first pitch and then everything after M+M Ledge. Also if you are a fast solo climber it may not be too big a deal, but if you're planning on hauling I think it would be a huge pain, the uppper section would be terrible to haul especially without a partner to constantly kick the pig free. Have fun though, the middle aid pitches are super.
  12. I do believe the Mystery Route was published somewhere else also. Just a hint.
  13. What those military boys don't get in money they make up for in all the free butt lovin' the armed forces offer.
  14. Although bounce testing RPs is a good idea, bounce testing hooks is a bad idea. Just think weight, unweight, weight, unweight, shift shift shift, POP. I like to put my hand over the hook as I get onto it, this way it is much less likely to hit me in the face and I can also feel any movement in the placement. By holding your hand over the hook it is far less likely to hit you in the face, I find I receive many more face shots from ripping a nut out with the draw still on, once it comes out it makes a beeline straight for my helmet.
  15. i did trl clean last summer. we relied on very little fixed gear so doing it clean again should be no problem. have fun.
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