mattp

Yes, but not really. We have seen cc.com threads lead to law enforcement actions and changes in land manager practices. I, personally, have received a death threat in response to a cc.com argument. Friends have been made and lost. What we say here is real.

I agree with all posted here except that I have some worry about the 50 cm ice axe for self arrest. Be careful as the spike may end up very close to your entrails and the tool itself may be difficult control if you use a short axe like that.

Standoff on Classic Crack.

In 1974, on a family outing, two young girls ages 10 and 13 were buried in a large avalanche at Source Lake and were not recovered for several months. This is a dangerous spot because it is so easily reached yet in such a serious target zone.

It seems to me that much of the discussion here has missed Twight's point. Breathing supplemental oxygen is fundamentally different than carrying an ice axe or a goose down sleeping bag in that it is not simply a piece of equipment in the same manner that a piece of gear makes it easier but that it actually increases the performance of the performer. I still think Hillary and Norgay first climbed Everest, and I'm a fan of Willi Unsoeld, but there is some merit to this notion.

I'm not entirely sure that what you mean by canyoneering. The note above about the danger or upstream thunderstorms is correct, but there are a lot of exciting trips in the canyons of southern Utah and nearby Arizona that may or may not invoke that hazard and weather forecasts are not to be ignored. Rad is right: flash floods are not to be underestimated. But these are spectacular areas and I bet you will enjoy your trips down there, hiking below the rim and into the canyons.

You 509'ers are all the same. We pay the taxes, you get the roads and bridges. And then you complain about us. Sorry we let you down this once.

The American Alpine Journal publishes reports of first ascents for climbs grade IV or above each year. A summary section for each state can include mention of grade III climbs. I'm working with AAJ editors and local Washington reporters to compile a summary for the year 2012 for Washington state. They are interested in the peak, route aspect, route name (if not just SW Face of blah blah blah), first ascent party, and maybe a one to sixteen word statement about it. Please send messages via private message here or e-mail to matt-at-mattsea.com. This is a worthy project. In the past I and many of my friends did not publish our first ascents and the result was that subsequent climbers reported their first ascents and we were then placed in the odd position of having to decide whether or not to note that we did the same route maybe as much as 20 years ago. Reporting is OK even if you don't want to "brag."

True that - if it is not in YOUR yard. That stuff is a menace!!!!

I scanned that article and didn't see the technique that we found easy and effective. Maybe I missed it. To kill Himalaya Blackberry, cut it down, dig it up as best you can, and haul the debris away. Cover the affected area with a barrier (we used coffee sacks, anchored with gardening stakes, but I am told that newspaper several pages thick will do, and then cover that with wood chips. Leave it alone for two years. Turn over the soil and plant whatever you want to grow. The blackberry roots will have died because they didn't have photosynthesis feeding for two years. No weed killers and, after the initial battle, not a lot of ongoing physical effort. At a former property I eradicated it from a stone wall by simply steadily removing it for a couple of years. If you prevent it from growing - at all - it will give up.

Spoken like a true youngster. I remember the day when we used to think nothing of falling a long way on a 1/4" hanger with a Leeper hanger on it. I've done a lot of bolt replacement and I agree with your point here, but I had a laugh when I read this. I totally support the suggestion that stainless steel rings be used wherever heavy use is anticipated. It is also important that climbers take care of the crags where they climb, and I hope all climbers will support such efforts. I would add, too, that I've been one of those guys who interfered with somebody else's day to suggest that they were not being smart about their use of gear, their placement of their baby in a car seat sitting at the base of a cliff known for loose rock, or whatever, and I have had both good and bad results with this kind of intervention. I think all of us need to be responsible climbers, and that includes speaking up when we see something dangerous, but I'm probably not saying anything that folks here have not already thought about to suggest that our words of sage advice or our urge of sound practices or even our replacement of "bad" gear with "good," may not always draw appreciation.

Here is your image.

Dave and Bill: Thanks for another outstanding line. Everyone else: Excuse my enthusiasm. I think that Squire Creek Wall rocks. You should too, I think.

Mr. Maniac, I have great respect for what you and your friends did on this wild wall. I believe that the new or latest or current or whatever you call them climbers do, too. I say three cheers to Squire Creek Wall. It is not in vogue for climbers to pursue long rock climbs on less-than-vertical rock, but I think there is adventure here and this is a place of astounding beauty. Dream on. Post more about your vision for the wall. And post more stories and pictures. Everyone here loves that kind of thing!

It is the part where they enacted huge tax cuts and started two wars. You don't need a diagram.

Damn. That is pretty nice! Couldn't have happened to a worse guy. (WINK!)

I saw Uncle Tricky this Summer but he left before I could speak to him.

Austin, Good luck. Rainer is tough this time of year. You have a good plan but if it continues to storm away between now and then I would recommend standing down even if you get a good weather window. You want a warm spell followed by no snow for a few days - and good weather.

Nice! "The Coast" and "The Northwest" may be challenged as compared to the continental ranges in terms of ICE but we do have some incredible scenery and we do have a lot of great climbing -- ICE included. It is especially nice when you don't have to drive 10 hours or fly on a plane and rent a car.

I've seen fat ice up there and there is definitely some good skiing terrain on beyond the climbs noted here. The Duffy Lake road offers a tremendous assortment of skiing and climbing thrills!

Warfield's got it. Yes, there is wheat and chaff here: information, insight, goofiness, vindictiveness and vile. This is cc.com. Since day one, we take the good with the bad and come back because it is mostly good.

Thanks for your information, Tvash. You have confirmed that almost everything that was posted over there at sensiblewashington.org was correct except that they mistakenly read one point to mean that the initiative has the State regulating the strength -- I looked at the language of the initiative and found it indicates (as you point out) that the reference to strength was in a provision about packaging and labeling. After considering all of this I vote yes so that we can stop arresting and jailing people over simple possession even though I think this initiative has some real flaws. I and nobody I know is I have no real personal interest in this issue other than trying to carefully consider how I vote.

the boys and girls in Olympia will mold it to make it more sensible? Really? I'm not arguing one way or the other. But I'm suggesting we have not had much good discussion of this thing, or at least I have not seen it.

Here's a point I added after your response: I believe as does whoever posted sensiblewashington that public sentiment is in support of legalization. If that is true, might supporters be better off waiting for a better proposal? I'm not sure that our current regulation of alcohol or tobacco is exactly right.

Yo Tvash. I believe Sarich is not behind sensiblewashington. Sarich is the medical marijuana guy you are criticizing, but sensiblewashington appears to be a different group. Just like my other friends who support the initiative, you have declined to answer the argument made in the link I posted. Somebody I talked to today did provide a good counterargument, though: we have a lot of people arrested and going to jail over simple possession of small amounts of marijuana today and that is not be a good use of law enforcement and incarceration resources. Vote yes and hopefully this stops without waiting for a better proposal. I still have concerns regarding points made by sensiblewashington. Should we adopt a DUI standard that is not clearly supported by science or does the current law about driving while impaired hit the right mark? Do we want the State of Washington regulating the strength of what is sold or regulating sellers this way? Will the State really be able to tax marijuana as long as it remains illegal under Federal law? Should minors be faced with DUI records if they have ANY measureable blood content, etc.? Simple repeal of laws against marijuana possession and taxation and regulation under existing laws regarding commerce and pubic health and impaired driving might be better than a new set of laws specifically related to marijuana and cobbled together in an effort to garner support for this proposal. If you assume that public support for repeal of laws against marijuana possession is rising, might you be better off waiting until a better proposal comes along?