mattp

Yes, please don't climb these routes for another few weeks. There is a nest and baby birds and the parents will most likely not be friendly if you enter this area while your being there could pose a threat to the baby birds. For the birds and for your own climbing pleasure it'd be a good idea to climb somewhere else and the State Parks and Fish and Wildlife people have asked us to cooperate. These birds have been nesting in this location (or nearby) for several years.

Cosmic Debris, The Washington Climbers Coalition has paid for a porta potty in Spring and Fall climbing seasons recently and is raising funds for a permanent toilet. Past history has shown that porta-potty's cannot withstand the abuse they receive during the Summer (Gorge concert) season. A concrete crapper will be able to better withstand the hoards and will serve visitors year-round. For more information: Washington Climbers Coalition

At several National Forest locations, I think the private contractors have proven WAY more obnoxious than their former Federal paid counterparts. Seriously. Have you been camping in the last ten years? I have no information as to whether the private contractors are more "efficient" but my suspicion is that we'd generally be better served by entry level Federal employees than by private contractors who want to enforce regulations. I've encountered some very dedicated public servants collecting fees under a private contract at some locations but mostly: NOT.

In general, I have had less luck using the tarp anywhere that you need trekking poles to set it up. Tarps generally work better in trees, or at least in bush. I'd go with an oversized tarp for the lower camps, and get a small mountain worthy tent when you want to camp on the summit of Mount Ruth or above timberline on [name your peak] or if you are sleeping in the parking lot at Washington Pass in July and your car is not good for sleeping in (mosquitos are a serious issue here, even if generally less during sleeping hours).

I spent 8 years working outdoors, 75 to 150 days a year, and almost all in the mountains, camping under a tarp (a small part of this was in lowlands or on the coast). I had relatively little problem with mosquitos, though to be sure there were times when a tent would have been much better in this regard and I certainly used a head net. I can count the number of times I got my sleeping bag wet on one hand (well, maybe two hands but it was never a real problem and we were generally out for 3 weeks at a time and I used a down bag without any goretex shell or bivy bag). We camped at or below timberline unless the weather was good, though, and I was always diligent to get up and adjust the tarp if weather changed and moisture blew under. I also carried a tarp with a lot of pull-outs and carried plenty of cord. Mice are an issue if you camp at very popular areas. There are definitely some places I would not want to sleep outside of a tent and, at many places, I'd rather sleep in the car. Many mice infested places are roadside locations but others include back country sites where there was once a cabin or where there have been horse packers or where the place has been a popular campspot for decades. It is creepy to have mice run across your face in the middle of the night. For waiting out the weather I'd MUCH rather be under a tarp than in a tent. You can sit up and lean against your pack while you read a book. You can cook while lying in your sleeping bag. You can sit there and see your surroundings without having to get out of the sleeping bag and open a tent door. For these same reasons, I prefer tarp camping when the weather is good, too, though for real mountain climbing it is not a good option. I'd go with a tarp for most of the time, but I would probably support any recommendations for a small tent that you might receive for those trips where a tarp is not a good idea. Blackfly month in [wherever you go], for example. Or for that trip where you want to camp above timberline and the forecast is not totally bomber (if it is, leave tarp and tent at home). Even for winter ski overnights in stormy weather I have found a tarp preferable to tent camping if camping in the trees.

Half of them were replaced maybe 20 years ago. I've heard some speculation that the replacement bolts may not be as good as you might like, so maybe it is time to replace the other half.

The current guide is not the spiral guide that you are talking about. It is self-published, I think, and is called "Mazama Rock." I bet you can buy it there. I got my copy at the Mazama store and there is now a climbing shop next door.

I have offered the same comment when this topic came up in the past but I would say that I led this pitch with just a #11 Hex as the biggest piece and did not find it scary. You will be run out if you don't have the huge gear but it is a wide crack, in a corner, and well less than vertical. You may struggle a bit to get up it but you are not likely to fall off and rocket down the thing. If you have recently climbed, say, the last pitch of GM at Index (a pitch that starts with a body-off-width and ends with an arm-leg off width) you will laugh your way up that pitch on Backbone.

Be sure to post up if you go!

I agree with Joseph here. There are too many factors that go into this equation than can be summarized in any simple answer and, really, it takes a lot of experience for one to be able to readily and accurately assess placements and the force that may be applied to them. And, while screamers may help marginal placements, I think overall judgment about what makes a placement solid is more important than the use of a screamer. Aid climbing experience is probably a plus. Significant leading and falling experience is also a plus. But both can be dangerous.

I've known plenty of 5.9 climbers who were, in my opinion, douche bags. I've known some who were 5.11 trad climbers who were as well. Some people who think they are bad-ass act like idiots, for sure. But so do some who plan never to be bad-ass end up acting like idiots as well. On average, I think the label "douche bag" (as I perceive it) probably applies more consistently to those who stick with the sport for a short period of time than it does to those who do well at it. The douche bags tend to burn out, though not all perhaps. To me, the term includes some measure of grandiosity and a significant measure of ineptitude or at least inability to talk about the activity in a way that celebrates the activity itself if not an inability to actually perform. What is your definition of a "douche bag" as referenced here?

I agree, Mark. The variation called Midway Direct is good "girlfriend climbing." It is not a good beginning leader variation, though. I could refine that drawing a bit but I tried to show the fact that you have to move left when that corner above Jello Tower runs out. I used to climb the "Direct Direct" a lot. I can't remember for sure but I'm wondering if there was another bolt on it in the 1980's.

You must be a twisted soul, KK. That slot is a wretched affair. I wouldn't even take my dog up it. Have you tried the original route?

Brass Balls is the real deal. It has one of those old friend holds on it, alright, but I was content to snap some photos and meet my buddies up at Midway Ledge with sandwiches and water yesterday.

That Oware tarp looks pretty good. It has the center pull-outs that make a tarp work, and the description says all of the pull-outs are reinforced. I worry about the super light fabrics, though. If you set it up in the bushes and get hammered by a windstorm - a likely event of you are camping on the coast for example - how will it hold up to being poked or chaffed? Everything has its limits, of course, but I often worry about the durability of light weight gear.

Trip: Castle Rock, Leavenworth - Several Date: 6/10/2012 Trip Report: Good times at Castle Rock today. This is one of the first placed I visited in Leavenworth, decades ago, and it remains one of my favorite. Great climbing with fantastic views, easy access, and the top of the rock feels like a small mountain summit. Here is Shawn, topping out on the ancient classic, Midway. On the lower part of the Rock, Stephen led Brass Balls. Here he goes on the lower of the double overhangs. There are good climbs to be had at Castle Rock! For those inclined to do Midway, check out my topo. I would recommend avoiding the chimney on pitch 2 that is shown to be the way to go in all modern guidebooks. It is not the way Fred and company went in 1948 and it is not the best way to go today. midway topo. Gear Notes: This place is trad. Approach Notes: As easy as it gets. There are good trails leading 5 minutes to the lower Castle Rock, and 20 minutes to the upper Castle Rock. Walk off from the top.

I have carried a 10 x 12 tarp for many years on ski, kayak and hiking trips. It is nice to have extra coverage, in my opinion. Unless there is a bug problem, mice, or on any trip where you will be camping above timberline, I prefer tarps to tents. I have been on a lot of group trips, particularly winter ski camping trips, where my friends were skeptical at first but by the second night of the trip everybody was hanging out under my tarp and using their tents only for sleeping.

It is not that hard to pull 1/4" bolts and replace them with 3/8" - I'd be glad to help with this as well.

Valhallas, Good points. I don't remember rope drag being an issue but I didn't lead that pitch so I can't comment on that particular matter. I just remember hanging at that belay and thinking: this sucks -- and I wondered whether stopping below that "top crux on the second pitch" might have been a better idea. As to the retro-bolting question, it sounds to me as if the belay bolts are very likely retro-bolts. There is some possibility that the chockstone may have been the original pro and maybe the FA party belayed here; maybe not. Does anybody have any information about this? I've only climbed the route once and I am not advocating for any particular action here. I am just wondering... If somebody goes up there with a crowbar and drill kit and is intending to replace the belay bolts and looks carefully and concludes that the belay is not in the "right" place, would it be a good idea to move it? (Up or down or left?) Or replace only one of the old bolts and expect climbers to know where the "better" place is that might be a gear belay rather than the obvious 2-bolt hanging belay? Or publish their "recommendations?" Or ??? I think these are questions that anybody replacing bolts might consider. Thanks, Bob, for the history.

What do you think about my question of whether a different location might be better for that belay? I found the old spot uncomfortable and I don't remember what I was thinking but at the time I thought there might be several reasons to set up lower. If you placed bolts at a new location rather than simply building an anchor there its starting to smell like retrobolting, though.

This was a lot of fun last year! Great breakfast on Saturday, slides that night, and the clinics went well. Here's a shot from climbing at Prospector Wall on Sunday afternoon with climbers I met at Rockfest. This one attended clinics on Saturday and this shot shows her doing her first lead. See you there.

I don't know what you guys are calling the Kiwi coil but, when I was in New Zealand I saw a guide instructing his client about climbing on the middle of third of the rope, tying in with a butterfly knot and locker, and each carrying enough rope to reach the other in a crevasse rescue situation. To measure thirds of the rope, he showed how you could just count coils: coil the rope as you normally would (butterfly style), counting coils 'till you get to the end. Then divide by three. Next time you are roping up you need simply take 1/3 of the total count from each end, add a little bit for good measure, and tie your butterfly knots. I agree about tying in with the clove hitch. Generally, I don't even use it for tying in at a belay either. Next time you are at a nice ledge and tied in with the clove hitch take one of the ends coming out of the knot and whip it up and down and sideways a bit. You'll see your clove hitch disintegrate into something not at all reassuring. I'm not sure how dangerous this is -- I haven't tried step two of the test and then jumped off the ledge to see how fast it will again tighten up -- but it just worries me that my "knot" will not be a "knot" if there is a lot of activity as I move about, change clothes, get out of the way of the incoming climber, etc. I prefer to use a real knot and not to have to consider this. I certainly wouldn't use it to tie in for a belay though, again, I have not actually tried whipping apart my clove hitch tie in and then taking a practice fall.

I climbed it 5 or 6 years ago and thought it a good climb. I posted this topo on cc.com. I don't know for sure, but I think that old bolt belay might be better abandoned in favor of a lower option and I believe that I too slung the chockstone described above. I think the variant I show here is what Telemarker described and better than sticking to the corner on that third pitch. The corner looked mossy and no fun to us!

Hey chirp! I'd love to climb there with you. Or anywhere, for that matter. And what do you mean by the "crux pitch?" On that particular route there are two "half" pitches that I have not climbed for years, a leftward traverse and a vertical pitch that rejoins "The Kone," and were pitches 4 and 5 by my count. I don't think any bolts on either of these have been replaced. Matt

I have no current information but I have climbed Backbone much earlier in the year than this and although there was snow for drinking water the climbing was dry. I'd be surprised if it was not OK now. We climbed rock pitches at the start that are typically avoided now, though.