mattp

John Harlin is the editor this year. Address him as "Senor Harlin." He likes that. He is hoping we can provide good info. Now.

The American Alpine Journal (AAJ) has published reports of new routes in Washington forever. About 80 years or so. This has been "the record" of what they call "significant climbs" and it is a very worthy project. They publish reports of climbs world wide, and thus they do not report every new one pitch climb at our favorite local crag but focus on longer routes. Submissions generally are to be grade III or grade IV or higher. This year, I noticed just a couple new routes in Washington that were posted on cc.com or anywhere else that I watch that met these criteria. Any reports would be welcome. I need information right now. Somebody else was going to undertake this project but they may not have done so. Any tips?

Nice TR and nice photos. Thanks. I'm interested in your "synopsis" of a winter where you suggest we never had the long stable period and few of the pineapple express events than normal. I don't question this: that certainly conforms with my weather observations as I did not get out skiing all winter. I'm interested, though, in that I didn't notice any reports of new big winter climbs this year. Did I miss something? Might it have been a bad year for winter climbing but a better one for skiing?

Not the dreaded "isothermal" (mushout)!

Could anybody listen to the Dirtbag Diaries and not get at least a little grin?

I hope so!

I'm trying to heal a torn bicep but would like to get out for a little easy cragging and it looks decent for tomorrow. I mean easy: I've got a climbing vacation coming up and the last thing I want to do is re-tear.

Nope. I'm not high. Apparently you can't read where I wrote that I don't like broken glass and I am not making excuses for whoever "did this." Are you high? All I am saying is that the broken glass may be the result of some act that somebody else thought was not simply vandalism. If I were to confront someone about this or similar behavior I'd focus on asking them to consider their impact on other visitors rather than telling them I thought they were a complete failure as a human being. Your mileage may vary. Calling them a dick may be more successful but I doubt it.

There is an amazing diversity of rock climbing in Washington and it is amazing to be able to climb at places as diverse as Islands in Puget Sound, the Cascade foothills, and the Washington Desert. I've generally done fairly well in April in all of these settings.

April fools!

Operators are standing by to take your call.

This sounds like a good trick. I'll have to try it.

The purchase and the Index endowment were brought about through the efforts and donations of the organizations listed above, several other local clubs and businesses, and generous donations from climbers as well as friends of Stimson Bullitt, some of whom probably never thought climbing was a good idea but they may have wanted to honor their friend or perhaps to support recreation and the preseravation of undeveloped landscape. A bunch of people have worked really hard on all of this. We'll be performing some additional maintenance and hope to have some ongoing clean up and maintenance projects over the coming season.

State Parks had been very supportive but it is being maintained by the Washington Climbers Coalition, along with the Access Fund and American Alpine Club, and the Mountaineers are also likely to start getting involved. Most Index crags have been owned by State Parks for 20 years, but the Lower Town Wall was private property and is now owned by the Washington Climbers Coalition while we negotiate the terms of transfer to State Parks. The law passed a few years ago says that all State Parks land requires the parking permit. My guess is that most people who climb out there will end up buying the permits anyway, because they are required at other climbing areas and at put-in places for boating and etc. We don't know exactly how this will play out at Index. Read more about all of this here: www.washingtonclimbers.org. A link on the front page leads to more information within the site. There are pages with information about the current long term Index planning efforts, information on the climbing at Index, and some hisottory of the Index fund raising effort. If you've been there recently, and particulalrly if you have ideas about the proposed siting of a permanent toilet, take our survey!

FOI?

Trip: Index Town Wall - Parkinng Lot Date: 3/24/2012 Trip Report: I visited Index yesterday to take pictures of the new and improved parking lot and porta-potties. It was sunny and almost warm. The place was BOOMING! I was out there a few weeks ago, in drippy weather and nobody was there.

I've climbed Rainier a bunch of times and by several different routes. The most fun I ever had was when we spent 3 nights on the mountain and spent time not only acclimatizing but also simply enjoying BEING THERE. Take as much time as you can.

No argument there, Ivan. On average, the elite don't go to jail when they commit crimes, don't pay their share of taxes, and don't fight in wars. I don't think that is likely to change.

I've never seen his program before but I've been reading his book since the first edition and reading about him for 25 years. John Baldwin rocks. In a big way. I can't imagine his show isn't worth the door price.

I don't argue that a draft will end poor decision making, and I bet Serenity does not either. But if there were a mandatory draft, and if there were no college deferments or any other way that the policy makers kids might be excused from service, they'd probably undertake a different analysis. The decision makers might also undertake a different analysis if they had to enact a budget for wars undertaken.

I agree. Totally.

I love that. I was there a few weeks ago and we wandered about a little bit but almost everyone we encountered was completely lost. Signage and some better mapping would be a big plus.

I've had what I can only call "severe" issues. It gave me more than a "haunt." It made me screech. For decades. Explore your options.

I had a chiroKraktor who used to be able to fix me with one crack-none of this come back twice a week kind of stuff. It was always kind of scary to lie on his table, awaiting the crack, but he would send me out the door feeling pretty damn good and I didn't need to come back for a while. As it turned out, he wasn't curing anything, though. I ended up having problems that have lasted many years. I still remember Dr. Bernier with fondness because nobody before or since has ever been able to produce that kind of result but it was not - in-the-end - what keeps me well today. There is help - and there is help. Go for the Kraktor if you have one who helps. I've gotten benefit from acupuncture and acupressure, too. But meanwhile keep looking for long term help. For me it turned out to be "traditional" medicine.

I'll be there if I can. Mt. Erie is fabulous and all of us miss Mr. Kloke.