mattp

These are great shoes. Surely need a good home!

Me me me.... If Joseph doesn't come through, let me know.

I posted the reference to "removable bolts" that I think lead to this thread. By that I meant something that could be removed without resort to wedges and a crowbar (as in the typical wedge anchors that are most common). I meant to refer to a bolt which most would view as permanent but which could be removed using a wrench, pliers, and maybe a hooking device. By "removable" I meant Rawl 5-piece or Hilti coil or Fixe triplex or something similar. I do not advocate the bolt hole hardware that was marketed as a removable bolt some years back because the subsequent climber will not be able to find the hole unless, maybe, the bolt is placed on overhanging terrain. I once drilled a hole, and went back six months later to stand on the very same footholds from where I drilled it and it still took 10 minutes to find the hole. That would NOT be the experience I would strive to produce if I were setting up a climb for followers and, if leading on a first ascent, I'd rather have a traditional bolt - thank you. I have not tried the hardware, but I cannot imagine that it is easy to place the pro - even if you can see the hole - as compared to slotting a nut or slamming in a cam. And I wonder about the load strength as compared to a bolt. I'm asking for the big slap down here but, if my assumptions (guesses) are correct, it seems rather silly to drill a hole to make an anchor that is a nuisance to utilize and not as strong as it could be. Has anybody posting here actually used the product that was marketed for use with open bolt holes?

By "removable" I meant 5-piece or Hilti coil or something else that can be removed without using wedges and a crowbar. I do not advocate the bolt hole hardware that was marketed as a removable bolt some years back because the subsequent climber will not be able to find the hole. I once drilled a hole, and went back six months later to stand on the very same footholds from where I drilled it and it still took 20 minutes to find the hole.

I was out there with Jeff today. It was pretty exciting to see what he can do with a grip hoist and some rock bars! If anybody has time to help the work you do out there will serve Index climbers for decades or more and its fun.

I don't have that e-mail but in general bolt replacement is a good thing unless the other guy put the bolt in a stupid place to begin with. New routing or other additions have traditionally been thought generally OK but here too the bolt you place may be subject to criticism and the best rule of thumb I can offer is this: (1) don't add or replace bolts unless you have climbed for at least a couple of years in several different areas so you have experience with a variety of styles; (2) proceed with caution; and (3) use removable bolts if you can. That's three rules and there is a lot of how to information on the web. Hand drill at 3:00 Rock..

For some scrappy climbs on blocky rock or with bushes involved I like to carry a 48" sling or maybe even two sometimes. I carry them over the shoulder, in a configuration that I can best describe as that you would produce if you held one end of the sling at your waist, passed the other end of the sling (both strands), over a shoulder, and then brought it back around the other side and back to your waist and clip it end-to-end. The result is that the sling is hung over one shoulder just as if you threw a 24" sling over your shoulder but it is two strands and you can deploy it by unclipping the 'biner and pulling it off your shoulder without having to take it over your head or otherwise sort it out from whatever else you have on yours shoulders like a rack or camera strap or whatever.

Thanks for that post, Sol.

Yes, I think Blueberry Buttress goes into sun about 11:00 a.m. But that means you can pass the crux before that happens if you start early and are half way efficient about it. I have climbed all of those west side routes on hot summer days. Jacobs Ladder gets sun the latest, but even the crux portion of that route is seeing sun by about noon. Just start early. 7:00 works for me, but I know the way. If you have not been there before start a little earlier. And, if you do go there, I would recommend climbing to the top. Do not follow the route from the Blueberry Terrace upward that is depicted in Climbing Washington. That was probably the original route but it has not been the recommended route for 20 years. A much better route leads upward from maybe 75 yards left. my web page on these routes.

It is not far past Dana's Arch, if I remember correct. The start is right of biology of small appliances. For the third pitch, traverse right on a large ledge and reset the belay when you reach an arete that heads to the top. A short but fun 5.9 pitch makes a good finish. The descent can be done with two ropes, but it can also be done with a pair of tennis shoes. It is not a bad walk off.

That makes three of us. I once bailed from that headwall too, but rather than right we then went left to find a way around the corner and then back right (traversing left) to reach the last little bit below the summit.

That has been growing there for 20 years, and is getting slightly more extensive with time.

Nice, Rad. I wish I could skate out of work and join you.

The Sisters are fantastic, Jason. Definitely worth a couple of trips, even from the far north and even if you are used to more "alpine" destinations in the North Cascades. Broken Top is a great climb and the Prouty Glacier on South Sister makes a good companion climb. There is a really cool volcanic area north of the North Sister, the Husband to the west is pretty neat and just to the north Mt. Washington is great... etc. More Three Sisters posts, please. Thanks TrevorB.

Thanks for the report. It brings back memories. That is a fantastic route for a group. There is a step in the ridge not far below the summit that might warrant a fixed rope, and then at the top there are the two options noted - as well as a snow traverse left below the nose, to reach an easy climb to the top. This too is easily protected by a fixed rope. What a fantastic peak and the ski run down that SW snow slope is not bad either. Camping in the area is FANTASTIC!

You can access the Middle Sister from west side or the east side trailheads. The closest trailhead is, I think, the Pole Creek trailhead on the east side.

The North Sister would be a big step up in terms of difficulty and danger. On the standard route, the "terrible traverse" is very exposed on steep snow, and there is some fairly real rock scrambling after that. The climb to the summit from the north is not easy either. The Middle Sister from the south has a lot of climbing over large boulders, and from the north it has just one short steep bit of snow.

They could be for hanging side pockets. I've had a couple of packs that had detachable side pockets and had fittings like that for attaching them.

Rob, I've posted this same point before on cc.com but a friend of mine once pointed out that disability insurance maybe more important than life insurance. If you die, it is bad. But if you "merely" suffer brain injury or spinal injury and become totally dependent, much worse (financially and maybe emotionally). You won't be bringing in any income AND they'll have to support you. And you may not be you.

Watch out for goats! They are neglected, for sure, but the Olympics are spectacular.

Of course it "sucks." We ALWAYS complain about the weather, the rock, the climbers, or whatever. I'm one of "we" - I thoroughly enjoy climbing here but I'll be the first to tell you how great it is in the Bugaboos or the Gunks, or .... This place is great. There are not many places where you have such variety of settings and rock within a day-trip radius. Enjoy.

"Too light." Nice one Rad. I think I agree. Light is not necessarily right if you are going to be swinging your tool into some ice in the way that most of us visualize use of an ice axe. It just bounces off.

In general, I think that for your average snow climbing objective the modern trend toward short axes is not so good. (50 cm seems to be replacing the old 70 cm standard espoused by the likes of Chouinard in the '70's.) The longer length is better for leaning on as you trudge up the hill and it makes the axe much easier to control and safer when executing a self arrest. The shorter axe is a lot nicer if you crawl through the bushes or if you are going to put it on your pack and climb some rock, though, and if you are going to climb technical ice the longer tool will really slow you down. I carry a slightly shorter axe for what I call "general mountaineering" - 65 cm.

I think a toilet is going to be a big improvement out there.

This is a joint effort of the Mountaineers, Access Fund, American Alpine Club, and the Washington Climbers Coalition.