mattp

In a typical crag climbing setting staring at a groundfall is generally the product of starting and not backing down from a climb that doesn't have good pro near the start. It is not necessarily a mistake or an error in judgment to decide to carry on toward that first good placement but may only be "calculated risk." Funny story about a groundfall: On the first attempt, the leader falls from 25 feet up and breaks his leg. He heals, goes back, and pulls the move. Partner says: OK. I know you are badass. Can we place a bolt there now? Answer is no and a bolt was not added for another 20+ years. Sometimes the calculated risk was calculated by somebody else.

I'd buy them for $45.00. Sorry to lowball but I have a pair of 45's and they fit my left foot perfectly. I'll only use the right shoe. Anybody want just the left? Maybe we can pay his price.

Gorgeous. Thanks, Lowell!

I will never look at Black Peak the same way again. Thanks all.

Trip: Three O'Clock Rock, Darrington - Till Broad Daylight Date: 5/26/2012 Trip Report: The Forest Service repaired the road leading to the traditional Darrington crags last week (several newer climbs and some older ones lie in the Squire Creek drainage, to the west). Three O'Clock Rock and Exfoliation Dome are good to go. Green Giant Buttress, too. We had a favorable weather forecast for Saturday so I headed out there with my friend Mark. Actually, I headed out there after my friend Mark (he woke up, looked at the blue sky, and couldn't wait for me to get to his house at the appointed hour). I hiked up the trail, coffee in hand, and found Mark setting up a self-belay. He traded me for a blueberry bush and we climbed "Till Broad Daylight," re-bolted the first two pitches, and enjoyed a sunny Spring day at Darrington. The original bolts were 1/4 x 3/4" split shank button heads although some were 1 1/4". These were not much bigger than roofing nails. Seriously! These old bolts mostly came out very easily with Mr. Crow(bar) but two of them were actually pretty solid. I'm pretty sure the new stainless steel anchors are safer. Danny helped with three of the bolts, and then after we got done he led the first pitch of the climb on new shiny stainless steel. It is climbing time in Darrington. See you there! Gear Notes: Almost all Darrington climbs require 2 ropes for the rappel. Many are largely bolt-protected but you need to carry a rack and know how to use it. 'Till Broad Daylight uses a few cams - a set of one each up to 2" will be overkill - but you'll use maybe ten draws. Bring a camera. This place is beautiful. Approach Notes: Drive up newly repaired Clear Creek logging road. Walk 30 minutes up the trail. When the trail leaves the forest to cross an old boulder field, look for a climbers' trail up and left toward the South Buttress and the Great Arch area or go straight ahead toward the North Buttress. You are there.

Closer to Seattle I'd favor Zig Zag at Mount Eerie. It is only 2.3 pitches, but very scenic. You could have an OK outing on Great Northern Slab at Index, too. Look at the route called Taurus. DGS, on the upper wall, is also good. Do the traverse right to the final short 5.9 finish. 3 pitches, full height on the upper wall, and a spectacular finish with a civilized walk off. Not bad. In Darrington, I'd consider Till Broad Daylight to The Kone, on Three O'Clock Rock. Silent Running is great, but the slab crux might not be a good choice for someone's first outing. In Leavenworth, the routes on Upper Castle Rock are really fantastic. Not 4-5 pitches, though. For a real classic crag the easiest thing is probably to go to Snow Creek Wall (5-6 pitches) and Outer Space or Orbit are your routes. But the entire package, with an approach hike, climb, descent and hike out are probably more than I would take an uninitiated climber on.

Nice!!!!!!

See you there!

Awesome . Let's go!

Come on out for Norwegian Pride - I mean Vantage toilets - tonight!

I don't remember who it was that is quoted with this advice, Ivan, but some famous climber once said the best time to go do a climb is the time you can go to do it. July may not be "recommended" for the Captain, but if that is your season it is the best season for you. People climb it in the heart of summer every year, I bet. The Bugs' are more than cool, though. If you get the weather.

You can do OK picking up a partner. If they are not up to the task you should be able to figure that out by Sickle Ledge and it is an easy bail.

My little kitty tried that for me. This is not a good practice. Really.

I have read that motor oil does in fact not damage climbing ropes. Here is an example: RockandIce.com. Years ago, we used to read stern warnings about carrying ropes in your car trunk along with gas cans or oil cans, and then there was a "debunking" of this "myth." Personally, I'd err on the side of caution and replace the rope. Seriously. Your cell phone bill for a couple of months costs more than a new rope.

Given that clarification, I'd recommend Private Idaho. But if you could handle slightly longer climbs (two pitches and you'd need at least two leaders) I'd recommend Great Northern Slab even though you have rightly expressed concern that this might be "in the way" of other climbers. The standard route passing the railroad bolts is - what? 5.6? A route starting with Sickle Crack, to Taurus, to the last pitch of Great Northern is the best beginner route in the area, in my opinion (5.7). The Lizard, (5.8) is good (most climbers avoid buttlips chimney which is 5.8d), and you can do Rodgers Corner off to the right (5.9). I have taken large groups of up to ten kids on climbs 2 to 4 pitches and while there is a lot of sitting around involved they have enjoyed it. You may get in somebody's way, so some management and some diplomacy will come in handy. But I think that if you are fairly thoughtful about it and maybe exercise a little charm you can take a group of up to ten kids there for a day and not cause too many problems. Some climbers you meet will not agree, for sure, but I think your kids have as much right to climb there as do anybody else. It is a matter of trying to be cooperative and not acting like you own the place, in my opinion. And, if you have not practiced managing a group of kids on a multi-pitch climb, it may be a very tedious thing just to climb a two pitch 5.7. I also think even your most gifted students that may have climbed a 5.10a 25 meter route at Exit 38 are likely to find Taurus' second pitch amusing. You head out under an overhang with no apparent easy way up, then magically pull up and find a jagged crack on a steep "slab" with a lot of exposure where they really get a sense of being on a cliff. The final moves, up a lower angled slab, are not trivial either though still 5.7. I have taken a lot of large groups on multipitch climbs, 5.2 to 5.7, and they've had a good time on them.

I'd go for summit wall at Mt Erie. Gorgeous, easy to set up, and a bunch of climbs in your range. Check with Anacortes land managers about groups, though. some info

I'd say it might be more important to invest in disability insurance than life insurance. I figure that your wife will be sad but she will get over it if you bite it on a climb. She will have a chance to move on. If you merely suffer a brain injury and she has to care for you for the rest of your life she will not have that option.

I too was surprised at the suggestion that the Lovin' Arms pitches are not worthy. The 2nd of them, in particular, I thought was fantastic.

Great news, Mark! Thanks.

There is an improved graphic and some information available on our web page at www.washingtonclimbers.org. These Peregrine Falcon closure programs have been successful throughout Washington for many years and, as we continiue to cooperate with the land managers, the Federal and State biologists are increasingly willing to work with climbers on these issues. Peregrines have nested on Snow Creek Wall for many years with a closure only imposed in one season when they nested on a popular belay ledge, the closure area at Exit 38 allows climbing on other nearby crags, the land manager at Erie redrew the closure boundaries specifically so as to allow use of the historic classic, Zig Zag, etc.

I drove out there and took my own photo. Here is an updated graphic concerning the 2012 Deception Wall falcon closure.

I visited Deception Wall with a wildlife biologist from the Mount Baker Snoqualmie Ranger Station in North Bend today. There was a Peregrine Falcon, he thought the male, flying back and forth and occasionally perching on the cliff and on trees at the top. We did not see where the nest may be but it appears to be on the (main) Deception Wall cliff, based on the behavior of the bird that we did see - patrolling that cliff rather steadily. A raven came along, and the biologist speculated that it was watching to see if maybe momma Falcon had left the eggs unattended and available for lunch. The ranger was very friendly to the notion that the closure should be narrowly tailored to the specific need to protect this nest, but he also said that they would have to monitor the situation and that they would err on the side of protecting the birds if there was some indication that climbers were not complying with the closure and at one point he even indicated they might need to close the hiking trail on the old railroad bed if it looked as if hikers on the trail below might be a threat. He initially thought they should maybe add "we did rock" to the closure area but agreed when I pointed out that it was around the corner a bit, and separated by forest from the main cliff where we think the nest is located. We are going to try to help him get a better graphic but, pending further development, the closure area is the Deception Wall. I'll put more information on the WCC website this weekend (I hope), and we'll try to keep everyone updated. The closure affects maybe a dozen routes out of over 200 in the area. It is expected to end June 30th. Please do not climb on Deception Wall pending further notice. (And yes, Lucky, I think Nevermind is OK for now but I would probably head to Amazonia or the Far Side or Little Si pending further clarification - the ranger I met today still has to check with the State biologists and further observation may indicate that they impose a broader closure area.)

I talked to the federal wildlife officer yesterday and I also talked with Alasdair. They both indicated that the intended closure area is Deception Wall. The graphic is not as good as it could be because they were rushed to release something after hearing reports of climber encounters with birds that are actually sitting on eggs right now. In another thread I asked if anybody had a good overview shot of Deception Wall I can use while trying to clarify this before I speculate about it in this public forum and possibly add to the confusion. It is raining today and tomorrow so we can probably hold off on asking for more public statement on this today. I've been criticized for saying so but, in the past, arguments but also simple speculation and even well meaning discussion on cc.com has sometimes caused officials to worry that climbers will try to avoid compliance or reinterpret things to their own ends. In some cases this has led to consideration of broader closures or other more restrictive action rather than narrower ones. The guy I talked with was interested in working with us and I don't think they are being arbitrary. More calls today and we'll put more information here and on the Washington Climbers Coalition website. If you are on the Access Fund e-mail list you may also get something by direct e-mail. Matt Perkins Washington Climbers Coalition

FF, The "do gooders" you decry have been working with land managers out there for over 20 years. Here is a shot from an Access Fund work party that I believe took place in the early 1990's. The rock shown here is on the slope just below the approach trail that today leads to the trestle. In my experience the land managers at climbing areas around the state generally work hard NOT to close climbing areas and I believe they will be more likely to continue to do so if we work with them.

Does anybody have an overview of the Deception Wall - maybe something shot from accross the valley or somewhere that shows the whole thing?