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Bronco

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Everything posted by Bronco

  1. Well now, that's a step in the right direction, get back to work!
  2. from testosterone.com There is a sound that haunts the people who live on the outskirts of Nairobi, Kenya. It is not the roar of Numa the lion, nor is it the hiss of Histah the snake. Instead, it is a man-made sound: Thwip-thwip-thwip-thwip-THWUNK! Thwip-thwip-thwip-thwip-THWUNK! It is the sound of bags of shit flying through the air and hitting the corrugated metal roofs of their sheds. That's right, bags of shit, or as they've become known in Kenya, "flying toilets." The problem is that in an area populated by roughly 2,000 people, there are only 5 conventional, sit-down, closed-door toilets, and they're pay toilets at that. So, rather than wait in a line of what's often a hundred people, with or without newspapers in their hands, most simply go outside, shit on a piece of polythene paper, wrap it up, and chuck it as far as they can. Given the density of the sheds the people live in, the odds of one hitting your roof or landing right outside your door are pretty high. The chance that one of these 3rd-world FedEx packages will land on your head probably isn't quite as high, but that doesn't mean residents don't walk around with at least one cautious eye scanning the sky for shit projectiles. Maybe this is one of the reasons why Kenya produces so many amazingly fast runners. Horrible poverty, poor sanitation, and flying bags of shit? Now that's a problem. A couple of week's ago, National Public Radio played some of the radio segments from around the world that had been awarded medals at the radio version of the Oscars. One of them was a first person audio "diary" of a young girl with cystic fibrosis. In case you're not familiar with the disease, cystic fibrosis is a fatal illness. Your lungs simply produce so much mucus that you can't breathe properly and as a result, infection after infection sets in until your lungs become gossamer thin. Eventually, they cease to function altogether and you die. This particular girl, armed with a tape recorder, made verbal entries into the machine over the course of two years. At the time the tape was finished she was 20 years old, which in cystic fibrosis terms, is ancient. She had seen most of her cystic fibrosis friends die long ago. She was quite cognizant of the fact that she could go at any time. The audio diary was filled with segments where she'd gasp into the microphone from her hospital bed, explaining to the audience that would some day hear her tapes that the wheezing noise was the sound of her lungs trying to breathe. She recently received a lung transplant, but now she has to deal with her body's endless attempts to reject the organs. Despite all of this, she doesn’t really complain and as she concluded her radio diary, she said that she didn't know if she'd live another day or another year, but she explained that either way, "I guess that's okay." Cystic fibrosis and the knowledge that your days are numbered? Now that's a problem. I've got a friend who's at the Mayo Clinic right now. He's suffering from inexplicable kidney failure. I've got another friend who has colon cancer. Another just got divorced. Failed kidneys, colon cancer, and divorce? Now those are problems. Someone I know very well experienced a botched penis extension procedure. I now have a… I mean, he now has a cork where his penis used to be and when he goes to the bathroom, it just sort of sloshes out. Very unsatisfying. What's more, the residue from the cabernet sauvignon on the corks irritates his skin. That, obviously, is a problem. Then there's the other end of the complaint spectrum. The son of a friend just got cut from his college football team. He was a hotshot in high school, but college is a whole other universe. The son didn't have an inkling of what it took to excel in sport, nor did he have the requisite drive or will. Instead, he dropped out of school and blames the coach for not recognizing his greatness. He's destined to be one of those bitter sons of bitches who spends each day fantasizing about what could have been… if not for that bastard coach. A friend of a friend bores the hell out of us whenever we see him because he's always complaining about how he can't afford a house in today's market and how there should be subsidized housing. "Tell me," I feel like saying to him, "Where in the Constitution does it say everybody gets to have a house? It doesn't. You have to work for it, you putz." Likewise, everywhere I look, someone's complaining about something. The editorial pages are filled with letters from indignant tight assess about the outrage of the week, which currently happens to be how "morally repugnant" it was for CBS to air the "The Victoria's Secret Fashion Show" a couple of weeks back. Man, these people, mostly women, probably turn out the lights and put on latex gloves before jacking off their husbands. The week before, they were similarly outraged about rap lyrics, or the violence of video games. The advice columns are filled with letters from losers who can't hold jobs or stay in relationships. They blame everyone but themselves. Everyone's suing someone. Suing because their feelings were hurt; suing because fast food made them fat; suing because the rectal thermometer they used elicited homosexual feelings that had previously lain dormant. Psychiatrists' offices are filled with people who blame their parents for every shortcoming they have. Sure, you visit laundry rooms and when no one's looking, steal thongs out of the laundry baskets of babes so you can sew together pungent multi-colored quilts. Did it ever occur to you that it has nothing to do with your mother making you fold her Woolworth's underwear when you were ten, that maybe you're just a sick bastard? Those aren't problems… well, maybe the underwear thing is, but it pales in comparison to real complaints or problems. And then there are the complaints we get. I don't think a day goes by that I don't get at least a half dozen e-mails complaining about how the letter writer can't lose that last bit of fat around his or her waist and how it's really a problem that's got them down because they're going to friggin' Tahiti next month and they're worried that the native islanders won't get down on their knees and worship them for the gods they are because they're 7% body fat instead of 6%; how they're 5'5" and only 250 pounds and they don't look quite as stocky and fire-pluggy as Lee Priest yet and how miserable they are because of it; how they can't stand the taste of cottage cheese and can't I please think of something else they can eat at night because gosh, cottage cheese is so yucky. Those are not problems. You know what to do to lose weight. In a take-off of Nike's slogan, just fucking do it. You know how to gain muscle, hell, we've printed about a thousand articles about it. Just fucking do it. If you can't, and you've no underlying medical problem, you're just weak willed. Can't stand the taste of cottage cheese? For chrissake, shove it down your throat, you pussy! Arggghhhh! Man, I don't know how we got to be the most powerful country in the world because a good portion of the population is as weak as the urine flow of a man who suffered a botched penis extension operation. Likewise, we get complaints all the time from a small percentage of readers demanding to know why GROW! doesn’t come in guava flavor; why if we're such experts, we don't all weigh 300 pounds and belch fire; why MAG-10 only helped them put on 10 pounds instead of 20; why we're such big sellouts and charge for our supplements instead of functioning solely as some sort of big honkin' humanitarian weight-lifting site. Yep, instead of Toys for Tots, we'll be Traps for Tots, a non-profit organization dedicated to turning our nation's children into an army of no-necks. I don't want to hear any more wuss complaints from these readers. Legitimate complaints about some policy of ours are fine. Suggestions are fine. Suggestions are welcome. Questions are welcome. Asking for advice is fine. Letters to see how we're doing are fine. Naked pictures of women are more than fine. But complaints about something trivial or moronic? Woe-is-me whining? Some of us need some perspective about what constitutes a problem and what doesn't. There are plenty of people who can't walk, can't get out of a hospital bed, can't find food, let alone get to the gym or worry about how they're going to dress up their cottage cheese to make it more palatable. And the same goes for the world at large, particularly the U.S. There are truly some things that matter more than network TV showing a little flesh in primetime or whether some semi-literate rapper is singing about bitches and ho's. If we don't start putting things into perspective, we'll all be woefully unprepared when some real shit hits the fan — or should I say, hits the roof. Now that would be a problem.
  3. Rack: Eight short screws and a V-thread screw, 12 blades/angles, small cams, #9 hex, full set of wires, 70M ropes. “NO BOLTS, NO AID, NO JUMARS.” Thank god they remembered the #9 hex!
  4. Dru, I see no real comitment here. I don't even want to know what you ate before, you are a disgrace to manhood. If you were serious about this weight gain project you would be eating 2 waffles for breakfast sandwiched around peanut butter, nutella, 4 eggs over easy, whipcream and strawberry jam. For lunch, no less than 4 pieces of pizza dripping with cheese and grease. A snickers bar and quart of chocolate milk for snack and 2 packs of macaroni and cheese, 1/2 loaf of frech bread dunked in olive oil for dinner with an entire bottle of Cabernet or Zinfindel. Desert must be at least half of a quart of icecream with appropriate toppings. Don't be a fricking whiner either, I eat like that at least once a week. It's probably why I can't haul my ass up Libra Crack.
  5. 24 hour buckaneer 5.11b R/X is immediatly left and Shirley 5.11c is a little farther left. Kinda steep through there!
  6. maybe that's why the name of the flows right there is "The Diversions" duh!
  7. Nope, but he was definetly a local yahoo. Thank for the info, I wasn't sure if it was just something they did at that specific flow or if it's just general courtesy at any ice climb when you can divert some water onto the face at the end of the day.
  8. Bronco

    Oops

    This crash happened less than 2 weeks ago - it's a conspiracy!
  9. This weekend I overheard a guy at an ice crag mention he was planning to "open up the crick" when he went up to pull the toperope anchor. Anyone have any idea what he was talking about?
  10. hmmmm. the answer is a.
  11. that spongebobsquarepants guy is deep! I watched a documentary on a day in his life once, he's so philisophical about everything! His head must hurt bad at the end of the day. Kind of like trying to read everthing posted on this website in a day.
  12. I don't know what test you all took. My results were RTRD - "ignorant" aparantly 75% of the population fit into this category. There goes 2.5 hours of my life I will never get back.
  13. first I'd have to score some acid, then strap a pillow to my ass so it'd break my fall into the rocks.
  14. Breaker breaker, any takers? Have all my own gear, don't lead much yet, but willing to follow most anything halfway sane or just toprope with another gumby. Supposed to be colder this weekend than the suffer fest Cascade Climber had last weekend.
  15. you forgot the toof and cascade concrete!
  16. The DAS is a little heavier, so you could assume it is probably warmer. Although an old carpenter once told me "you know what happens when you assume, you make an ASS out of U & ME"
  17. How about Libra Crack? I hate that MOFO! I have left so much skin and blood in that crack it needs to be hosed out with disinfectant. I still havent made it more than about 5' up it, but, this winter, it will fall to my new rock NINJA technique that involves using tape on my hands and figuring out some kind of foot work. I liked classic crack at 8 mile, perfect jams for me.
  18. Potential warm body belayers or ice climbing rope guns who may be in Bozeman over the weekend, I'm looking for a partner for Saturday. Send me an email or PM. For some reason my wife isn't interested in freezing her butt off belaying me all day
  19. Toast, I don't know if you already saw this aritcle, but here it is: http://web.outsideonline.com/gear/gearguy/200211/20021128.html enjoy, you smelly bastard!
  20. Bronco

    Projects for 2003

    project for 2003: work on developing large glutes and to top that, I am gonna climb some super secret stuff on my shiny red msr super dupers and have a contest to see who can crash down the mountain fastest. nobody will know (or care). exept maybe the ktk and scott'teryx. the gold ribbon above is for ray for excellence in posting today. Seriously, I will probably train 10x more than I climb and do laps on the GNS at index all winter. Maybe scratch up some ice here and there. Go to a couple of pub clubs. hopefully get some new ski's, bag some peaks, not die. Live to see the spring, climb some harder stuff at index, GODZILLA, check out N. Ridge routes on several mountains. They seem the funnest thanks to glacial action a few years ago, in case you wondered. I'd also like to do some longer backpacking trips with the family, those seem to be pretty memorable and pleasant to boot. Not as many suffer fests, thank you very much.
  21. rock climbing? ice climbing? general alpine groveling?
  22. I was just surfing the sale at www.wildthingsgear.com and noticed the Denali jacket is on sale for $200.00, just $20.00 more than the Belay jacket. Anywho, it's 8oz heavier, and it's got a "real" shell, but you might check it out if you're looking for a do everything type belay parka. That sucker looks substantial! Personally, I have several insulating layers for different weather & conditions that I probably paid a total of $200 for. Big old Eddie Bauer down parka. Been in -30f weather standing around and warm. However, the shell is 60/40 cotton/nylon so I have to be careful with that potentially big problem in this climate especially. Oh yeah, it weighs in at about 3.5 lbs! LL Bean primaloft hooded jacket. I think it's got about 4-oz of fill based on comparing it with other jackets. It's my primary winter climbing jacket, but hood won't fit over my helmet.. and the DWR seems to be toast already (1 season). Sierra Designs lite primaloft jacket without hood. nice lightweight layer to stow in the pack if I (or partner) end up underdresssed for conditions. fits under either of the above coats or just a shell. This combo (lite prima and shell) actually is great down to about 20 f and is more versitle than just the LL which seems to be good down to about the same temp. With Temps below that, the LL would get layered over the SD which I haven't gotten to test out, but, I imagine it's good to about 0f. If it's colder than that, the big ole' down parka comes out. That being said, I'd trade the LL Bean and Eddie Bauer for any of the Wild things parkas (anyone?)as the Denali and Belay are designed for climbers and have a better shell in case you get wet, and you will get wet especially in winter around here. Your friend Bronco aka: the KING of coats, at least according to my wife.
  23. Things that don't help are: climbing with a bad attitude sketching and putzing around trying to get the "perfect" placement instead of just "satisfactory" hanging and crying panicing getting mad and throwing your rack into the N. fork of the Sky for participating in the above behavior.
  24. me and Toast were out there Wednesday and it was too warm! There was actually quite a few other climbers out there, more than I saw at any time last winter. I don't know why the state would have a problem with the septic system on the Index Tavern. It's worked for years! Next time you are headed over the bridge into Index, check out the drain pipe from the tavern into the river bed.
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