texplorer

-30 footer onto yellow alien on the Yorkshire Gripper at Squamish (had it backed up one foot below with a red alien but didn't need it) -12 feet onto red loweball Primrose Dihedrals Probably alot more that I just can't think of.

This weekend was probably my last time to visit Smith as a local. In two weeks I am headed to Las Vegas with my girlfriend. I am starting Pharmacy school there in the fall. A little over five years ago I moved to the NW. I had led maybe one climb and was a staunch republican. Well, I guess the hippies got to me and I learned what alpine 5.9 was. Since then I have identified myself as “a climber” (whatever that really means) and taken to drinking coffee, wearing carharts, and grown web-toes. I am sad to be leaving this place. I suppose Vegas is not the worst place for a climber to move to but I am still going to miss the NW. I will always identify myself with this place and have a special place in my heart for snafflehounds, horsecock, devilsclub, Fred’s FA list, and of course CC.com. Thanks to everyone who put up with my arrogant, pompous youthful years. I have learned a lot from so many and had a great deal of fun. Stay in touch and know that you’ll always have a couch to crash on in Vegas- Carpe Diem Texplorer

AAARRRRRRGGGGGHHH Booty!!!!!!!

If you don't want to read through the entire news report, here's my translation. Rich parents send 20 year old to world's biggest chestbeating spot. Yes, Danielle Fisher has climbed the world's highest summit where only few people (ok 1000's) have gone. Not many people are able to get to the summit of everest due to not being able to ride in helicopters or paying to slide ascenders up ropes anchored to the snow. Danielle has now accomplished a lifelong dream (2 whole years worth of dreaming) to be the youngest person to be able to brag about climbing a via ferrata slog. Danielle was able to accomplish all this despite being ADD. Yes, she had trouble paying attention in algebra class but was able to focus long enough to ask her daddy and other companies for the insane amount of money to climb Mt. Everest. Congrats Danielle-your cool now.

I am interested in a Petzl Pro-traxion or Mini-traxion. I don't mind if they are used, dropped, beaten up, etc. Make me a deal.

Whirly, To be able to jump on any .10 is actually quite an endeaver. I have done a few .12 sport routes and feel that I can just now say I can climb any .10 trad route. The truth of the matter has been touched on by many here. Being a good weight, weight training, getting on harder routes, gym climbing, falling over gear, and getting good at gear placement are all different pieces to a complex puzzle that you must fit together. Probably the biggest hurdle for most people is the mental one of climbing over gear when they know there is a good chance they'll fall. As a result they "choke" up or simply place too much gear. The main thing that will get you to where you want is just getting mileage on the rock. TR, lead, aid, follow as much as you can.

Tons of 5.4 slabs awaiting to be grid bolted.

You can get off with one rope if you stop in the monkey mouth or at the bottom of the aid section. However, the double rope rappel off top is one of the best raps ever looking down on Just Do It.

Harmonic Snaffle

Yosemite Valley is closed right now. Check out these photo's I pulled from the supertopo website.

Or just on every visit apply a new coating of crisco or some other equally slippery mess.

IF If you can keep your head when all about you Are losing theirs and blaming it on you, If you can trust yourself when all men doubt you But make allowance for their doubting too, If you can wait and not be tired by waiting, Or being lied about, don't deal in lies, Or being hated, don't give way to hating, And yet don't look too good, nor talk too wise: If you can dream--and not make dreams your master, If you can think--and not make thoughts your aim; If you can meet with Triumph and Disaster And treat those two impostors just the same; If you can bear to hear the truth you've spoken Twisted by knaves to make a trap for fools, Or watch the things you gave your life to, broken, And stoop and build 'em up with worn-out tools: If you can make one heap of all your winnings And risk it all on one turn of pitch-and-toss, And lose, and start again at your beginnings And never breath a word about your loss; If you can force your heart and nerve and sinew To serve your turn long after they are gone, And so hold on when there is nothing in you Except the Will which says to them: "Hold on!" If you can talk with crowds and keep your virtue, Or walk with kings--nor lose the common touch, If neither foes nor loving friends can hurt you; If all men count with you, but none too much, If you can fill the unforgiving minute With sixty seconds' worth of distance run, Yours is the Earth and everything that's in it, And--which is more--you'll be a Man, my son! Rudyard Kipling

a 2nd on the .10c

Do you think the Red cave route at the Portland Rock Gym is harder than the Orange dyno at stone gardens? What about the blue and green 3 move problem with a jump start at vertical world? What would they be rated on the B scale and the V scale and what about if we gave em English danger ratings too?

Texplorer Rates this Thread Best of Spray 2005

At least in America we can shoot people we don't like.

Some of you don't like guidebooks. Please see the sign below. One post for your new Yos Bigwall guide does not put you on my blacklist. I'll be using the antiquated Black & White guide this summer down there. Cheers

A Pop-up for Dru and SPED

Edited to indicate the Academy's desired award.

Nice TR, Excellent use of testosterone.

This post gets the Texplorer Snaffle Award for Best Pre-Chestbeat THREAD of the Year

This post wins the Texplorer Snaffle Award for Lamest Post of the Year

Well, there's lots of kinds of "most difficult" so . . . Most work in single pitch - Ahab - I guess I got the onsite of this thing but goddamn if one pitch ever took so much out of me. I bet I was on it for an hour and a half. Most time - Heinous Cling p1 - I bet I did this thing 15 times before I finally got it. My first foray into really working a route down to the move. Most exhausting - The Prow - probably wouldn't have been so bad except that I thought I could do it in-a-day style with one gallon of water in early sept. Big mistake! Made it to the top just as dark hit but was so dehydrated all I could think about was water even after I came upon an accident where one guy had taken a 200fter unroped off the edge. On the way down to the awahanee I contemplated getting a drink first or reporting the accident. I reported the accident first and then proceeded to waterlog myself sick. Lessons: Squeeze chimneys - NO! Sport Climbing is all about rehearsal Caesar was ambitious too - look what happened to him