texplorer

Nice write up

Anybody going this weekend? I need a partner.

How hard is NEWS?

The leg in the crack is key dude. I climbed an OW last year in the desert on Moses Tower. When I was done I had a huge stawberry on the inside of my left knee -through the carharts! OW's are just plain hard and painful- yet delightfully fufilling.

True Story A friend of mine went into a REI last year wanting to buy some Muira climbing shoes. Upon seeing that they had none in the store he asked one of the "knowledgeable outdoor professionals" about ordering the shoe. They told him that they couldn't order one for him since they have decided to stop selling high end climbing gear. Amazing that a company started by climbers for climbers is now not even for climbers.

There is also a lower rap line below wherever I may roam. You scramble or do one rap down the parking lot side of the formation to a small alcove. Then on the terrebonne side of the rock are two long chains. I believe this will get you down in 3 raps with a 60m

There was some real ice in the gorge this weekend. . .well sort of. I found a WI2+ to 3 stuff near Multnomah Falls on Saturday. Crown Jewel looked to maybe be in too that day. Unfortunately I can't make it to drytoolfest this week either as I have class every night except fridays. Enjoy-

Pitch one of Heinous and Crossfire are also a good ones

Joseph is the master of the re-mastered gear. I have climbed with his rack and must say he has some cool innovations. Thankfully I have never had to trust one of his crack N' ups to a 30fter.

Step 1) Grow your beard out Step 2) Put on wool knickers and 1930's genre mountaineer clothing Step 3) Stage some shots of yourself placing gear on Heinous Cling whilst climbing in old hiking boots Step 4) Get some black and white shots of yourself on lead Step 5) After developing the shots go into photoshop and brush out any modern bolts Step 6) Viola, instant ancestor photo of Grandpappy sending Heinous Cling on natural gear in hiking boots decades before anyone named Watts came along Step 7) (Optional) Start a website based on the <name deleted> model and claim your "ancestor" sent many of the most famous problems long before the likes of the Beckeys, Watts, or that Layton dude - with photographic proof!

I redpointed this route earlier this year. Yep the true "crux" moves are off the ground. You then stand on a ledge and get a true no hands rest. I think the climbing up from there is probabling in the low .11's but is continuous, a bit runnout, and slowly saps your energy. I found the true difficulty in doing the route in having enough energy to make the lieback at the roof and pull around. I "cheated" by getting my feet high as Rudy said and then reaching back with my right hand and palming back on the roof. It required a good bit of body tension but I was able to let my left hand depump a little and rest my grip in the right as well. After a few moments I was then able to grab the small lieback and grab the jug above the roof with a little less pump. Definetely a sweet line with fun moves.

Looks like our weekend is turning to crap

I have heard there is some good route potential in this area.

Nice job getting out. That is a great 5.8 testpiece pitch (when dry).

You can get by on the Nose with just up to a 4.5.

Maybe the trees fought back this time.

Wish I could go again but my spring break is the 3rd week in March. Have fun-

Any new reports on what the rime ice is looking like up there right now. . .

. . . or say a certain "Muir Hut"

or anyone whose name ends in "ski"

Dropped: 3 offset nuts, #3 camalot(ouch) Got Stuck: #.75 camalot Mystery Unclip: camhook, #.5 camalot I had a damn good record until Mescalito this year when I dropped the #3 BD and 3 offset nuts AND got the .75 stuck

There are surely better Malt Liquours but KingCobra will always have a special place in my heart.

Got some free time this holiday season Bill? -just kiddin, I liked the narrative.

. . . and I heard the mystery soloist was from the greatest country (ie state to yall) in the nation (Texas). Having said that I won't be soloing that route anytime soon.

bigwalling would spend more time in the gym if they let him bathook the T-nut holes.