ryland_moore

Lee and Alpine_Tom, was that you two we saw first crossing the broken up glacier on the right side approaching the mouth of the couloir? You asked how much I weighed on the little snow bridge? Great route. We saw that Marmot at 8,600' as well. It took us a bit longer to get down and we ended up bivvying in the granite slabs Sat. night and going out in the light on Sun. morning. Excellent climb! The approach was definately harder than any of the climbing, but in a week or so, the couloir will be out of condition and one may have to revert to the 5.6 slab variation to the left. The snow was super soft, but thanks to Lee and Tom, they kicked in som pretty nice steps for us on the way up the couloir! Also, saw a huge avalanche (serac fall?) coming off North Face or NW Face of Torment. Almost made it all the way down to the lake.

No Rangers up Boston Basin this weekend! I didn't have a NW Forest Pass for two days at the TH and no ticket! There was even a National Park Service Vehicle at the TH and no one. Also, all permits were taken for the bivy sites, but not a sign of anyone bivvying the entire weekend. What up? The Twilight Zone?

P and L heading up to W. Ridge of Forbidden. Leaving for BB tomorrow morning at 3am. Hope to see y'all up in there!

"Anyone want to do a road trip and hit up all the top sporto areas?" "I'll drive!"

There is also a wonderful 5.6/5.7 corner around to the right if you want to skip the 5.5 Frinction Slab pitch. I liked this pitch better, although the rock was a little loose due to lack of climbing compared to the Upper Exum. It is a full 50m rope length and a 60m would work better for this pitch unless you want to do a hanging belay. Have fun!

Yes, SoBo is right. Senaca, WV is pretty stiff. I'd also add the Gunks, NY, but like others have said, if the area was developed when 5.10 was the hardest grade, then you are bound to find what we are calling "sandbags". Maybe we should just regard the originally developed areas like Yos, Senaca, the Tetons, Index, J-Tree and the like as "Normal" and call all other areas that we find that are not "sandbagged", easy?

He clearly lost time as the group behind him when the incident occurred was now in front of him when he returned to the road. Go Lance!

You'll know in about 2 days! If worried, go ahead and start that steroid pills.

As one who has worked and hunts in areas filled with poison oak (I don't think Poison Ivy is on the West Coast?), I am a true believer in Technu. Since the Oak gives off oils, water is not always the best thing since it won't always wash away. Secondly, if you cannot get to water and soap in a short period of time (ie. less than an hour) the oils will seep into your skin. Technu can be bought at any forestry supply store or drug store. You apply it to the affected area ande rub it into your skin then you can wash it off later when you get to an area with water. There are also pills out now with trace amounts of the poison in them to build up your immune system. I became totally immune to poison Ivy back in Va. over the years, butr as soon as I moved out to Oregon, I got it just as bad as when I was a kid. A friend of mine played a trick on his then girlfriend (now wife) He told her that if she ate poison oak she'd never get it again. She did, and was inthe hospital for a few days cause it got in her throat. That was 20 years ago and to this day has never had it again!

What kind of experience do you have with crevasse rescue and climbing on glaciers? You can PM me as well....

And a Panic fan! Did you see the graffiti on her walls? You got sloppy seconds! Yes, she's a firecracker! And a hell of a teleskier to boot! Sorry we missed you up there, after celebrating at BC on June 1st, we headed straight back to town as there was the memorial for the female pilot who crashed the next day. Good work on those climbs!

Diving Trips to the Cayman Islands, Roatan, Honduras, Bonaire, The Keys, Cancun, Belize, Cozumel Climbing Trips to Mexico, AK, Canada, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Argentina, and Chile Travel trips to Costa Rica, Mexico, Panama, Nicaragua, Germany, Belgium, France, and Holland Places to go in the next few years: The South Pacific (Micronesia) , Thailand, Vietnam, Nepal, Tibet, New Zealand. Go on a big trip so we can all live vicariously through you!!!!!!

I've decided to do both. Thank you all for your insight and kind words.

Mountain Lake Resort where DD was filmed: and Smith Mountain Lake where What ABout Bob? was filmed and where redneck 4-H counselors give the South a bad name yet again:

No, that is just Mountain Lake just north of Roanoke on I-81 and is much smaller. Smith Mountain Lake is about 30 minutes SE of Roanoke near Bedford. I grew up in the "Noke and now my parents have built a house down at Smith Mountain Lake and live there on the Burnt CHimney side. Hokies suck now that they went ACC! I'm still pissed about that!

Hey, don't be making fun of my home town like that! I actually used to break into that camp along Smith Mountain Lake (Where "What About Bob?" was filmed) and jump on their ropes course with friends using wax-xoated boat tie rope!

I don't think the memorial would cause me additional pain. I think that the wake may not allow me to fully have a chance to clear my head and appreciate all that my friend brought to the world. Maybe reflecting wqith friends is a good way to cope with this. But I know that until I get into the mountains, I will not have a free time to clear my head and deal with all of the clutter and feelings I have regarding the incident. I will probably do both. This is not all about me, but is a way I deal with things. I internalize feelings when it comes to death, and this is my way of coping. I will remember my friend no matter what I do and he will always hold a special place within me. As for the others, we each have our own way of dealing. Some are confused, some totally hystarical, and some quiet. If I truly want to be able to remember my friend, it will be done on a summit in a beautiful place and not at a memorial sitting around drinking a beer in his name. That may help my friends cope and will bring back good, tough memories, and is maybe a reason to be there- for them, but as for me remembering my friend, it won't help. As a side note, my friend was driving out of his way coming back to Portland so that he could be on the eastern side of Mt. Shasta. along Highway 89. If he had taken the straight way home, he would have been on I-5. I am sure that honoring and remembering him in both ways is the way to go. Thanks for all of your input.

I am struggling with what society and friends are telling me and what I feel is best for me. One of my good friends and old roomate was killed in a traffic accident coming back from the High Sierra Music Festival in Quincy on Monday and friends want to get together to remember him and have a party in his honor. However, all I want to do is escape and run, and the best place for me to gte my head clear is to go to the mountains and climb. My girlfriend says she will lose respect for me by doing this and that other people will think I don't care about what happened. Any of you been in a similar situation? I just feel my head can clear when I get up climbing and I can make this "weight" I am feeling evaporate, at least for a short period of time. Climbing affords me to clear my thoughts and is the only time everything feels really clear, whether it be life, a career, hard decisions that I need to make, or even dealing with the oss of a loved one. Sorry for the downer, but looking for some perspective. Thanks.

Did one happen to have long brown hair, from Fairbanks, and drove a blue volvo?

Impressive guys! How did you decend? I assume you came in from Colchuck/Stuart Lake TH?

Latest Conditions? Anyone go up there over the holiday weekend? Heading up this weekend.

In addition to that request, what about the Couloir leading up to West Ridge of Forbidden? Thanks!

Drink Cytomax for a month straight and then get back to me about how you like it. Kinda like Tequila if you've ever imbibed a bit too much in a single sitting. You won't touch the stuff again. (Picture yourself praying to the porcelain gods saying, "I'll never drink that stuff again!!!!!!") Actually, I prefer just Gatorade and/or water while on the trail and pound a Red Bull prior to ascent, and suck on some Gu during water breaks. It's all personal preference.

As for electrolite replacement, I'd say Cytomax, but only because I feel I recover quicker with Cytomax and not from any scientific information. However, I can only down the stuff on weekend warrior trips as the taste wears on pretty fast and will switch to gatorade for longer trips and only using Cytomax in small doses.

What would I get for it?