ryland_moore

Let me add another hypothetical question to the fire. Where I grew up in the SOuth, it was proper etiquette to give up a route if you have set up a TR from another route or above if another party wants to lead it, or at least allow the other party to lead first, then you may set up a top rope. Obviously this doesn't apply at crowded places like Smith, where I have encountered many parties who were unwilling to give it up. For example, There was a party of two leading BBQ the Pope. I went up to the belayer and asked if anyone else was waiting and he said no. So we started breaking out are gear. Then a woman from around the corner came over and said she was climbing this line next, and we said well, you were not in line nor did you say anything to these guys climbing. She said that they had lead the 5.8 around the corner and that they were going to set up a TR as soon as the guys on the climb pulled their rope. They had 6 in their party and were unwilling to let us lead it quickly! Is this common? Maybe it was the same bitch! Was she in her late 30s with brown hair?

I use a variation of that route called 24 hour fitness. I will only do it for training for Denali, but will refuse to pay for a Pass and poach it like I will on Rainier this Spring!

Or a tundra quadcab.

You can always stay at the campsite just outside of town past the military base by the looney bin!

Serious? Which one you talkin' the one that comes down to the parking lot on the NW side of Spencer's or the one that goes down to thetrailhead at the top of WIllamette. I doubt if you are coiming down the steep one on the NW side as it is mostly rock and has some steeps of over 50 degrees. If you come down that, I wanna watch! I try and run up that from the steep part of Willamette at 46th and run all the way but have to stop halfway up the step section of rock, then I can run the rest of the way until I hit rock near the top. Run down the other side (less steep) - a good workout though! Interesting running when the trail is mud and you are trying to scrapoe your way up it!

WTF is goin on? Last year we had one of the highest death tolls from climbers in a given season and now this year with backcountry skiers (I don't put snowmobilers in the same category) ! Just dumb luck and poor snow conditions? Dare I say anything more? Definately some extremely competent people have lost their lives this season in the backcountry of BC. What gives?

Funny how? You haven't seen me since last summer. I blew up since then like that girl Violet in Willie Wonka after eating the 7 course meal gum!

As Steve Martin quotes in the "Jerk", "I was born a small black child....." Actually, I am about 5'5", weigh approx. 285lbs. and am bald. If you see me at the crags, ya can't miss me! I am probably the only climber out there who is wider than he is tall.

WHoops, guess that looks kinda bad. My apologies to NAACP. I am not a racist or biggot. Hell, I had an avatar image with a small black child on it for over a year now!The statement was more for those that copy-catted me and had the same avatar, hence why I got a new one.

Way to go Erik, now the cat is out of the bag!!!!!!

Depending on where you work, The Butte isn't too much farther.

I refuse to ever be associated with that gang for the rest of my CC.com life. As founder of that gang, I denaounce anyone who uses such a lame avatar. Death to black kid with ski goggles!

Not even completely balanced, since they still had a carry over of $1k+. Hey Mike, did that go to customizing the white van? I guess in all reality, it is only going up $5 for those of us who buy the season permit, but for those folks wanting to climb it one time, they are getting screwed! Especially those coming out for routes like Liberty Ridge, and Finger, Thumb and Nisqually Ice Cliff routes. You are paying to access the park, then paying for zero services in order to climb a mountain. In the investment world it is called, "No return on the dollar." Many will say you can't put a price on the experience, but I fel that it should be a tiered system. I have no problem paying the $30 for the annual permit, and a slight problem with paying the old $15/person to climb, but understand what the money is for, but to double it is obsurd. Why not have a tiered approach? Say $30 season and dog routes (Ie. anyone using Muir or Sherman) and $15 for those using other routes. The more technical climbers will be happy, and those wanting to do the "dog" routes have to pay for services provided. I bet the overall outcome in annual budgets is not that much difference, since the majority of climbers in a given year are on the more standard routes, and those that climb the more technical routes are often visiting the park multiple times a year and buy the annual pass, so there will only be a few who would pay the one shot $15 on the more technical routes. My two cents. I would love to hear a response from Mike on this concept or others that were considered. I would also like to voice my distaste for the lack of public participation and climber considerations given in this process, since, after all, they will be the ones who will support the program. Hope this doesn't backfire on you guys and you end up with a smaller budget than last year because people decide to boycott the fees and/or mountain. I also estimate you will have a tougher job fighting poacher issues, in that more people will be less willing to pay and therefore will refuse to register. Good luck catching those on the more remote sides of the mountain!

From what I understand, No, the state pass won't work. This is being administered by Pisgah itself. I just won't go there anymore if it passes. Plenty of other hills around to hike up.

Hey Bone, here is the link to the book: http://www.climbsworegon.com/GUIDE/climbing_guide.htm There are some ex ellent climbs down your way, and awesome sport climbing in the summer too (unlike the heat of Smiff)! I head down there to climb regularly in the summer, spending my mornings and evenings climbing, and then swimming and fishing for summer steelhead on the Umpqua. Good way to break up the day! There is also some excellent bouldering on the N. Cali coast, but if I tell you where the cove is, I'd have to kill ya.

They don't send the test results, your "IQ" number is immediatly posted as soon as you fill in the information required. DFA, be honest, you didn't even take the test did you?

135. Asking only that many questions, on 2 pages of testing, I call bullshit. Anyone actually order the 15-page I.Q. report?

I have actually seen this style of sport climbing quite often. You will also see it on a lot of Euro routes that are super steep. The reason it was explained to me why folks clip into a single biner is cause typically they are on over hanging routes that are left up for a long period of time. Due to the break down of materials in sun and general weather, they leave biner there as the draw webbing breaks down over time. I would have no problem climbing just with a biner, if that was all I had. I am not sure what would warrant someone to place just a biner if they had draws available, but I wouldn't look at it like it was a serious issue at all. As for the benefits of a draw in the place, there seem to be few. Many draws like Petzls can be fairly stiff anyways, so a biner camming improperly in a bolt with a draw seems almost as likely. Again, this is straight lined sport climbing and not trad or routes that wander. I'd be more worried about back clipping then falling on just a biner! I confess, I have never actually done this.

I wanna see! Shit! Goddamn, Get on that Crack and Jam!

I have to say, that if done properly, fake boobies can be fun to play with and can even look somewhat real!

Whoa, that is FAST!!!!

Ah, but my geology is still with me! PbS ie, Lead sulfide. However, I do not know of many lead veins to be climbed in the midwest like Kansas and Missouri!

Well, you guys are over my head cracking out phydics equations, although I vaguely remember PV=nRT! Anyways, I will find out how "I" feel at elevation on Denali and compare it to how I remember feeling on Chimborazo and Aconcagua, although a lot more comes into play like how I am training now! Really interesting topic though. Also, someone I think made a comment about there being no deserts in the tropics. This is not true. They may not be enormous deserts, but they are classified as desert areas by the annual amount of precipitation received: Look at the NW coast of Costa Rica, the Islands off the coast of Venezuala (Bonaire) and N. Chile (not sure if that is tropics or temperate). Not all areas in the tropics are lush and green!

Check out these sources: http://www.cc.utah.edu/~sa11170/Part%202/4altmed.html http://www.storysmith.net/Articles/Altitude.pdf The second is a good read!

Thankfully, weather is good during a high pressure system and not the other way around. It would suck at high altitude for good weather to occur during a low.