ryland_moore

A friend thought he was going to get into climbing, but decided he did not have the time, so he is selling a pair of red Moccasyms for $50! They have been in a gym two times. That is all of the climbing they've seen. Size 7 1/2. Pick them up in Eugene and they are yours.

Foraker?

Does the FDA also approve the orange dye they use to make farmed salmon flesh pink/orange since the fish are not eating the crustaceans that give wild salmon their flesh color? Farmed salmon would actually be grey without these dyes. Pretty gross huh?

The 2nd pitch, while intimidating, is an move once on it, at least compared to that last lunge move at the top of 1st pitch under the roof IMO.

I disagree Sphinx. There is an easier way of doing it. Right after you get to the first pin, there is a small ledge off to the right that then leads up a short crack roughly 10 ft. high. If you look in the new Leavenworth Guidebook, that is where the route shows you are supposed to go. Anyone ever done the route this way?

The first pitch of Canary seems to be straightforward yet JKrueger and I somehow did a variation. We started up higher and to the left of the normal crack line on a crack that angled up and right to the base of a double craqck. We followed this beyond the normal exit off to a ledge on the right and went straight up clipping two fixed pins to right underneath the roof with a bunch of webbing. Then it was a tough move using yoiur left hand for a side pull and throw up onto the ledge with your right. Is this the standard way or a variation? If so, what is the grade? Maybe I'm just a uss, but that last move seemd bouldery and harder than 5.8.

I know of one that just moved to town.....and she is single! Plus she can kick my ass in the BC. Literally flew up Denali!

Send 'em to the Rubber Room in Bishop, CA. They will fix 'em up good as new for ~ $40. I've done this to a pair of Bamba's 4 times now.

Never even been up in that area, so I assume not. Thanks for making me feel like a dumbass Erik!

Just wondering if there was any snow (doubtful) between the rappel descent heading back to Prusik Pass. Just wondering what kind of footwear to take up the route. I am sure all the snow up to the Pass is gone. Heading up this weekend. Thanks for any info.

Just spent the weekend on Vancouver Island sea kayaking near Telegraph Cove. Couple of questions since it was the first time I ever ventured into that part of Canada: 1) What up with the Vancouver Island mullets? Everywhere I looked I saw a mullet. I thought I was at a hockey game in 1980. Also, everyone from Vancouver Island seemed shy, yet those we met from Alberta were very outgoing? Just a random occurrance or what? Do Americans really smell that bad? Finally, the N. Island of Vancouver Island is awesome! Beautiful mountains, whales, eagles, bears, and perfect weather. Couldn't have asked for a better weekend.

Nice job Pete! Now on to Olympus!

When was the last time, Jordpoop, that you were free soloing a 60 ft. trad route rated 5.13? Well, that is pretty much what Evilution is rated (V12) at 60 ft. high on Grandpa Peabody in the Buttermilks. Famed climber Daniel Du Lac was about half way up when he pitched off and shattered his ankle. It may not be an epic from Mark Twight's perspective, but I would much rather be on almost any moderate alpine route run-out 40 ft. in the N. Cascades than even attempting that "problem." (Couldn't even do the first move on that thing!) An Epic is what you make of it as is all styles of climbing. Is someone who climbs no harder than 5.5 and is out climbing easy one poitch slab routes really a climber? Are you a climber becasue you can climb 5.9 trad and 5.11 sport? Some people may not think so. Climbing is what you make of it. Getting out is what it is alkl about. If you never go beyond the sdhort trail by the parking lot, but can climb 5.13, are you a climber? What about someone who can't climb 5.9 sport, but can lead .10 cracks? All of the above are climbers. I go a little beyond that, and if it pushes mentally as much as it does physically, I feel like I am "climbing." Regardless of whether or not it is alpine rock, sport routes, bouldering, ice climbing, or mountaineering. Nuf said....

Best wishes to friends and family. Wonder if there has been an increase in buildering since the film, Front Range Freaks, with Timmy O'Neil came out last year? Who builders on this site?

What about Black Peak? Not too long of an approach and good climbing. Can be a bit rough in the scree areas but not technical. For an overall ambiance, I'd go with Sahale. Try and get the permit, there were a lot left a few weekends ago on a Saturday afternoon for a sunday. If you are going this weekend though, forget it as it is the holiday weekend. I'd wait until the following weekend. For a shorter approach, could always do S. Arete of SEWS. Only one 5th classmove right at the start and then an EASY scramble to the summit. Super-easy approach too.

Still here unfortunately. Got a damn grant deadline. Non-profit work is killing me! Twoo many hours, too little pay...

Too bad there is a burning ban for the enitre Leavenworth Area right now. No campfires allowed in the pay camping areas at all! Place is a tinder box right now. Hope this weather doesn't continue until Rope Up, other wise no bonfires for that event either! Better pray for Rain!

Or he's selling the rack he stole from Squamton two weeks ago!

I am being sarcastic, but have had a GF on and off for 3 yrs. The main thing we fight about is me leaving every weekend to go climbing. Or it is hunting in the late Fall, and fishing in the Spring, and then climbing in between hunting and fishing weekends. I just do not enjoy going shopping, or picnicing, or taking walks, or having lazy days. She tells me that, " If you stay at home on a sunny day, you feel like you have wasted that day, when instead you should just be happy that you arer spending the day with me." Are all women like this? Am I being too selfish? Or are we just really different?

After reading this thread I think I am going to return the engagement ring!

Aren't you married?

Who would have thought that Larry the Tool would be patrolling 15 miles down the Icicle at 10pm on a Saturday night! I figured we were Golden trying to poach the pulloff with the "no camping" and "no tresspassing, private property" signs on the tree above the car!

I say that next time you talk with him, tell him your intentions. That you were trying to do him a favor, and that if he doesn't want the rope, then you will be glad to turn it into a dog leash for fluffy, a tree swing for the neighborhood kids, a boat hangar for the kayak in the garage, a tow rope for the back of the pick up, and a rope ladder for training in the back yard. Screw him. Then I'd call the guide co. he works for and explain how much money this guy is wasting. If he is this careless about the guide services equipment, I am sure this isn't the first piece he has casually left behind and not takne the responsibility to get back. Secondly, can you tell me where this guy often guides so I can follow his group around whenever I am boired hoping to pick up some free Booty? Stephan, you are either a liar or a lazy person if you find booty on Wilman's and refuse to take out a few slings b/c they are too heavy or you feel guilty. Believe me, the booty you find, people have no idea they left it, where they left it, or would be willing to go all the way back into the alpine to get it. Either that or it took a dinger from 4 pitches up and they have no idea where it landed or its location, so they consider it gone. Therefore it belongs to whoever finds it. I figure you will lose gear and you will find gear. Unless it is really expensive stuff, then I just keep it for passive use. Biners are good for racking pro, slings are good to use around the house, or rack pro. You can find all sorts of things out there!

We just slept at a trailhead way down the dirt road after the pavement up Icicle Creek Rd. ends. You are allowed to camp on the right side of the dirt road (the mountain side), but it is against the law to camp out between the road and the creek unless in a pay campsite. GOod luck in finding a place. My suggestion is to go hang out and pick up a local and stay at her place!

I first climbed at camp in NC. Liked it but just thought of it as a cool thing to do. Then a climbing gym came to my home town and started going on a regular basis. That progressed into weekend trips up to NRG and learning how to lead sport. Still never did anything more than one pitch routes in the 5.9 and 5.10 range. I spent most all my time with soccer, every season, and into college. After my senior seson in college (coach would not let me climb during season, so I could only boulder on the 29 miles of sandstone cliffs that was my college campus) I climbed every chance I got. Having places like Foster Falls, T Wall, Sunset, and the campus with its miles and miles of endless cliffs in some cases a 5 minute walk from your dorm room, made it very easy to blow of classes. We even had a cold spell come in that winter and got our porffesor to skip his own class with us to climb ice! Stayed up on the mountain that summer specifically to climb. Moved to JH and got into alpine. Ice that winter. S. America for big glacier slogs up the Andes. Moved to PNW and spent time at Smiff, local areas around Eugene, and at least 5 weekends in the N. Cascades every summer. Just finished number 4 last weekend for this summer, supposed to attempt Triumph this weekend, but weather not looking good . I started at that gym back home in 1992. Been climbing since, but did not play much in my life in 1998. I love it all. I guess one can say you are dedicated where you leave every weekend to go climb, spend all weekend there, and drive back in the wee hours of the morning to start work. Work gives me the aqbility to get out and climb in other areas. You could even do one of those Jeff Foxworthy, "If you_____, you might be a redneck." Things except for climbing. For me if you drive 14 hours to do a climb that takes 5 hours, you might be a climber. Or, If you are willing to drive from Eugene to Lilloet, BC jsut to climb some ice on the weekend (Friday-Sunday), you might be a climber. Others? I could come up with a million of these! Let's put out a book!