ryland_moore

Yeah, we need to restart our summer pub-clubs (which also involved climbing at the columns before hand). Anyone interested? I am!

Dave, I was not putting you down or your work. You have done some amazing things around this area and I thank you for your hard work, volunteer time, and committment to maintain good relations with land managers at places like the Callahans. I am just making an observation from climbing in areas like Mind Planet. I have not been down to the Callahans since the ratings were changed (at least not knowingly) and was only going off the ratings in Orton's book that was published back in 2001. I am referring to the climbs Eclectic Classic, Mind Games, and Backwards Evolution. Rated at 5.10a-5.11a, I still feel these are over rated and should be down graded a few letters. Ratings are all personal however, and since you put up the routes, it is your choice as to its grade. I have not climbed in most of the areas at the Callahans, and hope to get on a bunch more areas down there this summer. Keep up the hard work, take these posts as voices who can provide direction and insight into a part of the climbing community and what we would like to see. If I see you down there, I'll introduce myself and can discuss more on the topic. Again, never intended to sound like I was attacking you, and keep up the hard work. These opinions may cause you to think a little harder whether an extra bolt is justified or not. As for personal definitions of an overbolted line, if I can clip more than one bolt from any given stance, and there are no dangers below me (ie. a buldge or ledge) then the route is overbolted. Best of luck with your endeavors.

Damned double post!!!

Better known as "jorts"

Kahiltna Base camp Mullet Siting! After a successful summit bid on Denali, Team Rednecks On Ice celebrated in fine style, drinking bourbon, blasting Sabath, and hitting on women around Kahiltna International. Asked how their climb was, Pete Alderson of team Rednecks On Ice replied, "Fuckin' A, man." mullet

Is this the same guy whom your other male friends said was hot?

No one has even brought up the Callahans area, which, from my perspective has been overbolted and and overgraded. Pretty amazing when you can Z-clip up a route multiple times on a 5.11 that anywhere else is a 5.10 or 5.9. The Callahans does have a lot to offer and there is a lot of community and climber support down there, but I go there with the knowledge that this is what I will find and can choose to skip bolts when I want to. Not a put down to the Callahans, just an observation. The routes are way overbolted and ratings are inflated, whether the grade was based off an onsight or not. My two cents.

I have done it from Eugene to Eugene in two LONG days and was exhausted coming back, but it is possible.

The Kentucky Waterfall was even observed at Denali Basecamp on the Kahiltna two weeks ago! Check out the pic! (Anyone know how to post an attachment? It keeps telling me I put it in the wrong directory)

Wopper, why don't you try getting off the couch during the winter and climbing Casaval Ridge. Then maybe you wouldn't call it chossaval. Would you climb Gib Ledges in Late May during a low snow year? Can't really say that you should expect much more as it is classified as a winter or early spring climb. As for ski descents, check out Hotlum-Bolum area on the other side. Less people and excellent terrain.

There has been a lot of contravery over this area as it was opened in 2001. Skiers can ride the tram up to the top, traverse through a gate and be out of bounds in no time. A lot of critics were woried that it would cause the number of rescues to skyrocket and put too much stress on the volunteer rescue crew. So far, this is the first gumby case I've heard about in this area, and being from Tahoe, those guys should have known better......

Go to Backcountry Gear. They are an online retailer too, but they are all climbers who run a small shop off 2nd and Madison in Eugene. I'd say McKenzie Outfitters as a back-up but they are closing up shop and moving into the Heron Building on 6th Ave in Dowtown. Go to Backcountry Gear and they will hook you up. Support the local climbing shop. Good dudes, and they also support CC.com!

Pretty amazing memorial for her too. In a town of 500 residents, there were over 600 people there. A potluck, stories of her in the Itierod, how she started the two babes and a bird "McKenzie Air Taxi" service and completed with a rep. from each air taxi service flying over in formation with one plane breaking off and flying alone into the distance. God, I love Talkeetna. They also have a bumper sticker there that says Talkeetna, AK. A quaint little drinking town with a climbing problem.

It was really wonderful to finally put some faces with Avatars and meet everyone in person. Our group placed 3 out of our 5 team members on the summit, and although some may consider this climb a walk-up with the masses (which I can attest it is not) it was one of the greatest experiences in mky life. The views are undescribable, the people we met along the way were amazing (except for ze German coming down the fixed lines from 16,200 to 15,500) and the mountain stands alone in a sea of hundreds on NorthCascades ranges with thousands of routes and potential first ascents. The Alaska Range is truly a remarkable place that I will always hold close. It was also good to celebrate with Erden, Cory, and Eddie on the summit and continue the celebration to basecamp, to Talkeetna, to the West Rib, to the Fairview, and finally making it to The Teepee at 4am where we proceeded to close up shop and our evening of debauchery at 5am. Now that is a Pub Club! Almost 12 hours of continuous drinking! Pictures, I am sure, will soon rear their ugly heads, and all I have to say is thank god I don't plan on running for office (Biff Bowen either). Looking forward to seeing you in the mountains this summer.

I always thought the size listed on the Artc Expes and other Koflachs were Euro sizes. At least that is what the label says on the back of my boot (9.5 EURO) Which is equivelent to a 10.5 boot.

Did Trask just say that or did someone actually commadeer his computer and post using his name? Dan -, leave Trask's computer alone. You've taken on enough avatars, haven't you? Way to go Trask! First post that wss intelligent and thought provoking regardless whether I agree with it or not. You were just holding out on us when saying all you read is Soldier of Fortune and Hustler, huh?

See chat with y'all in a month or so. Taking off manana (don't know how to do that little squiggly thing on the keyboard) for Talkeetna and the Land of the Midnight sun. Hope the weather cooperates with you down here and that you all get sun on your backs, warm granite for your jams, and endless cracks that you just have to chuckle to yourself, damn what a life! Oh, and for you sport climbers and boulderers, may you send many a highball, onsight steep roofs, and tick all of your projs. before I get back. Send warm thoughts to Alaska for me and all others on this site and I hope to see y'all this summer at one of the multiple pub clubs, LEavenworth shindigs, and beer drinking with climbing on the side get togethers. Peath.

As the mountain warms up, rockfall will be a more serious consideration, as the rime ice on the Pearly Gates melts and the rock (more like choss) is not bound together by anything. If I had to choose crowds over safety, I think I would just choose crowds and go into it with the understanding that you are climbing one of the most climbed routes in the world. You can always do another route if crowds are a serious consideration. Also, if you go earlier and get to the summit at sunrise, then crowds will be lessand everything will be frozen or just above - free air freezing level could be above 11k by that time. I'd wait and see what the sund does to the route over the next 2 weeks and make your call then....

Just maxed out two credit cards so I could go to Denali. Problem is, it will take me a year til I can pay the suckers off. I need a higer paying job......If you're not in debt, you're not livin' life!

At least go down to the Reid and traverse over to the base and dig a test pit and check conditions. If you leave early enough from the Saddle and conditions don't pan out on Leuthold's then you will still have time for another easier route like S. Side. Have a blast!

Desey, the only people that suck is YOU! Everyone gave excellent beta. Too bad you weren't in good enough shape to tough it out or deal with the elements handed to you. Don't blame other people for factors that are only controlled by you, your partners, and the mountain. Hey, you still got to climb didn't you? Better than sittin' around and eating ho-hos all day!

I think it will depend on what you want to climb. With AT boots your are limited to walking and frontpointing. Forget any french technique or the rolling of the ankle to get more crampon contact. I hear people like the new Dynafits. I have climbed basic routes in my old version Denali's but wouldn't want them on anything super technical that would require gear. Others may have a different opinion. It may be I just haven't found the right boot for it yet....

I only do races on partial ascents. Summitting and descents don't count for me. I am training really hard right now for the Paradise to Pan Point route. Trying to get it in sub 30 minutes on skis (yeah right - not my fat ass!). I will need 3 additional avatars (hopefully fake ones but don't tell anyone) to help me record this amazing super-human feat. I wonder if Peter Alexander or the Stuggart family are free?

Saturday: Scratched my head at all of the shit I'm gonna have to haul up Denali Sunday: Sent the Parking Lot to Top of Palmer Route on Hood in record time - 1:05 - Watch out Dan -, I'm right behind ya!

For the poll, my girlfriend does, but she doesn't exactly shave, she waxes.