ryland_moore

Did Trask just say that or did someone actually commadeer his computer and post using his name? Dan -, leave Trask's computer alone. You've taken on enough avatars, haven't you? Way to go Trask! First post that wss intelligent and thought provoking regardless whether I agree with it or not. You were just holding out on us when saying all you read is Soldier of Fortune and Hustler, huh?

See chat with y'all in a month or so. Taking off manana (don't know how to do that little squiggly thing on the keyboard) for Talkeetna and the Land of the Midnight sun. Hope the weather cooperates with you down here and that you all get sun on your backs, warm granite for your jams, and endless cracks that you just have to chuckle to yourself, damn what a life! Oh, and for you sport climbers and boulderers, may you send many a highball, onsight steep roofs, and tick all of your projs. before I get back. Send warm thoughts to Alaska for me and all others on this site and I hope to see y'all this summer at one of the multiple pub clubs, LEavenworth shindigs, and beer drinking with climbing on the side get togethers. Peath.

As the mountain warms up, rockfall will be a more serious consideration, as the rime ice on the Pearly Gates melts and the rock (more like choss) is not bound together by anything. If I had to choose crowds over safety, I think I would just choose crowds and go into it with the understanding that you are climbing one of the most climbed routes in the world. You can always do another route if crowds are a serious consideration. Also, if you go earlier and get to the summit at sunrise, then crowds will be lessand everything will be frozen or just above - free air freezing level could be above 11k by that time. I'd wait and see what the sund does to the route over the next 2 weeks and make your call then....

Just maxed out two credit cards so I could go to Denali. Problem is, it will take me a year til I can pay the suckers off. I need a higer paying job......If you're not in debt, you're not livin' life!

At least go down to the Reid and traverse over to the base and dig a test pit and check conditions. If you leave early enough from the Saddle and conditions don't pan out on Leuthold's then you will still have time for another easier route like S. Side. Have a blast!

Desey, the only people that suck is YOU! Everyone gave excellent beta. Too bad you weren't in good enough shape to tough it out or deal with the elements handed to you. Don't blame other people for factors that are only controlled by you, your partners, and the mountain. Hey, you still got to climb didn't you? Better than sittin' around and eating ho-hos all day!

I think it will depend on what you want to climb. With AT boots your are limited to walking and frontpointing. Forget any french technique or the rolling of the ankle to get more crampon contact. I hear people like the new Dynafits. I have climbed basic routes in my old version Denali's but wouldn't want them on anything super technical that would require gear. Others may have a different opinion. It may be I just haven't found the right boot for it yet....

I only do races on partial ascents. Summitting and descents don't count for me. I am training really hard right now for the Paradise to Pan Point route. Trying to get it in sub 30 minutes on skis (yeah right - not my fat ass!). I will need 3 additional avatars (hopefully fake ones but don't tell anyone) to help me record this amazing super-human feat. I wonder if Peter Alexander or the Stuggart family are free?

Saturday: Scratched my head at all of the shit I'm gonna have to haul up Denali Sunday: Sent the Parking Lot to Top of Palmer Route on Hood in record time - 1:05 - Watch out Dan -, I'm right behind ya!

For the poll, my girlfriend does, but she doesn't exactly shave, she waxes.

TUIB, sounds like you need a trade-in!

Are you guys chatting on the same computer? Sounds like a troll to me...... I prefer smooth underneath with a little strip above if you're asking.

I've been up uin the upper watershed and no snow that I no of, although there was some snow on the ridge tops the last few nights we had rain. Sphinx, obviously you've been climbing on the wrong side. Tried any of the .12 and .13 overhangs up there yet? Or redpointed the .13 with 4 consecutive mono moves yet over a layback? When you do, then you can talk some trash. Tex, the one area that you may have trouble is a mile or so before the pull out that stays in the shade most of the day. It is lower in elevation, so with this wet and warm spring we've had, the area may have only been getting rain, but that would be your only access issue, I think. Some one told me of another alternative of accessing it from Dexter. May want to look into that, but I don't have the directions. I'll ask around the Crux tonight and see if anyone has ventured up there. There is always Callahans in Roseburg and about the same drive time. Good luck!

That is a big difference! Why south side and not Leuthold's or something just to the right on the headwall? Much better than S.Side! Plus you will avoid all of the trains heading up this weekend. I counted 60+ on the summit last Mother's Day weekend and many more heading up S. SIde. Stay away from crowds and it will be much more enjoyable (at least for the ascent).

Too bad. They sold out all 70,000 tickets in the first weekend! I will be in Alaska for this one, but last year's Bonnaroo was f'in awesome! And you can go climbing too! Only 20 minutes away from Foster Falls 1 hour from T-Wall and Sunset and plenty of waterfalls and deep pools to soak in to get rid of the shakes from the concert. Hell, you could just go to Foster Falls and climb underneath the overhanging waterfall and drop back in the pool like in Master's of Stone! [/img]http://www.friendsofscsra.org/images/fosterpc.jpg[/img][/url] Steep sandstone, deep pools, excellent music, and plenty of What could be better? Oh yeah, hot hippie girls naked!

Or better yet, have fish and wildlife handlehuman-animal encounters like they do in other developing countries. While in costa rica a guy went swimming in alligator-infested waters and lost an arm. Did they kill 10 gators to find the one with the arm in its gut? Hell no. They made fun of the guy (American by the way) who went swimming with the alligators! Two weeks prior, it was discovered that this bright young American hiked to the top of an active vlocano called Arenal, and was burned badly on his feet from gas vents he stepped through. In both instances there were signs warning of the potential dangers, but he was a dumb-ass. He would fall under the category, "Recreational Darwinist."

Hey Trask, Hos gotta eat too! Who you callin' a Ho? Oh, sorry Bitch! Name that movie quote?

Did ya summit Dutchess? How was it? Weather? Glacier conditions on WB?

Comt to Eugene where they just killed 3 over a 10 day period in an area called Triangle Lake, west of Eugene. The mother was shot because she was "hassling the homeowners pet poodle." Then two cubs were shot because they "posed a life threatening situation to an adjacent homeowners Pekinese." The guy who shot them was describingh on camera how fierce these two cubs were. They were no bigger than a dog, about the size of a small lab or pointer. p.s. There are some dumb people in this world and it amazes me how they survive into adulthood. I just wish the Darwinism process worked a little quicker on folks like this.

Agree with AlpineK, regardless of being a man or woman, I take those out less experienced then me and I go with others who are more experienced. It works both ways. And, not all hard-core climbers are hard-core every single day of the year. They like to do laid back "easy" climbing every once in a while. Ie. sport climbing fun run-outs at Smith (Tex has been known to do this a time or two, as well as the crack-meister himself, Erik!) Find out where folks are going and tag along. If it is not a huge, committing multi-pitch where adding new partners can upset timing issues, etc. you will have more of a chance to climb. My two cents.

I'm sorry Allison. Living here in PC capital of the world has been getting to me and I had to vent in an un PClike manner to a faceless crowd. Not personally attacking you or another woman, but was trying to stay along with the metaphor. There are plenty of women out there who can gladly poop and pack and there are women out there much harder than me. Kind of reminds me of a situation two years ago in grad school, where a person in our department sent out a mass e-mail to the department list serve requesting info on where he could get a tent fixed. I replied, "I used this woman in town named Dianna and she did an awesome job! Her contact info is......" I got blasted by 10 e-mails immediately chastizing me for my use of words and my statement, "I used this woman.....". Pissed me off. Eugene people who are PC to that limit suck nuts!

I wasn't referring to you specifically BDubyah, but to all the sprayers out there who will be on sunny cracks over the next month down in the lower 48. Have a good climb this Spring/Summer!

This has been on Sierra's website for over a month now. Great deal but the lack of people buying them tells me they are pieces of shite? Anyone have a different thought? ANyone used one and had it work?

Sounds like Glen is a lazy, fat pussy who had to find an excuse as to why he was quitting the class and emphasize that the reason he was quitting was not because of the hard work and training, but b/c he didn't want to pack his shit out. SOunds defensive to me, like he felt he had to justify his excuse. Guy had too much sand in his clit and couldn't fess up to his own downfall and inadequacues, so he made up some dumb-ass lamo excuse. Either way he's a pussy.

Good way to track our suffering when we are up there shivering our asses off while you sit down here in your pretty lycra tights and jamming sunny warm granite and smokin' kronic! As for the 44 climbers, maybe everyone read last year's success rate of 7 climbers summitting (I think) and thought it would be too tough