goatboy

I've used my doubles on lots of routes a J Tree to minimize drag -- routes such as "Sidewinder" in Steve Canyon, which traverses and traverses some more . . . or even some of the multi-pitch routes on Lost Horse wall which go up, then diagonally down again, then up again . Never a bad thing to practice double-rope technique so you're more proficient at it in the mountains!!!!

I'd take a single 60 meter rope and be careful to asess descents before climbing. There are SOME routes which you cannot rap off of. But a single 60 would get you down many of the ones that you DO rap off of. Intersection rock, for example, is a popular formation with a mandatory rappel and no walk off. A single 50 or 60 rope works fine for it, however. Steve

Thanksv ery much for the info, folks. A point of clarification regarding my question, as several folks have referred to alternative (though nearby) formations: I am mainly interested in routes on the formation called Big Kangaroo, visible from Hwy 20 at the hairpin turn East of Washington Pass. Kangaroo Temple is a separate formation, back behind the Big Kangaroo, not visible from hwy 20. Unlike Kangaroo Temple, I don't hear of many people (or large parties!) on the Big Kangaroo very often. Thanks again for everyone's willingness to share route information.

Or, you might search for Gauthier's email which he has made public knowledge on this website: See Profile My sense is that he is a contributor to this website and wouldn't mind the question.

Sounds like you talked to Cascade -- did you ever talk to the retailer again? If nothing else, you could make them aware of how you don't appreciate their tactics. At best, perhaps you'll get some free shit from them? Unlikely.

Nice picture, by the way, Ray. Yeah, I was thoughtful about avy hazard as well, though it turns out that things were pretty stable all day. We DID get a fair amount of spindrift all day long, even very early before the sun was up. Did you guys encounter lots of spindrift? It was pretty cool, climbing through all the spindrift, actually . . .

My thoughts on this discussion. I climbed the Triple Couloirs route with a partner on April 2, a few days after a few of the other parties mentioned here. I did not do the NF variation. We soloed the hidden, belayed and simulclimbed on the first couloir, simul-climbed the 2nd, belayed the rock step, and soloed the third couloir. Most of the route was good, quality snow. The two cruxes were the ice runnels linking the Hidden with the 2nd couloir, and the rock slab transitioning from the 2nd to the 3rd couloir. The whole route may have been better protected and easier to climb, in my opinion, with more ice. Instead, it was ice buried under lots of variable quality snow. The rock band up high had enough powdery snow to obscure gear placements or holds, and it was too soft to use for adequate purchase. The conditions were, in this regard, challenging. The protection was scarce throughout, though I was able to place occasional cams and pitons and clip several fixed pitons on the first ice pitch. I have not climbed many routes of this nature, but would disagree with Ray's observation that the route is not technical right now. I guess it depends on how you define "technical." The first couloir and the rock slab were rather technical in my opinion. There were long runouts on the first couloir and drytooling on rock covered in sugary snow on the slab. I do believe that it makes as much sense to solo this route, in these conditions, as it does to belay it. In fact, it may be safer to solo it due to the scarcity of pro. In any case, it was a very fine route and I enjoyed it a lot. Stellar views up top, from Baker to Adams! And Stuart, and the South Face of Prussik, and Rainier . . . great climb, great conditions, great views.

Does anyone else here find it funny that some of the members of this board, of all people, would collectively accuse OTHERS of being rude? Reading back through the responses to the initial post by the Mountaineer Representative, do all these responses strike you as respectful? Do many? My point is not that the Mountaineers -- and other large groups -- can't be overwhelming, disrespectful, or clueless -- many of the group's personal experiences have revealed that this is the case -- my point is that this board has responded in a very predictably rude fashion. It's like the Mountaineer guy walked into the cascadeclimber clubhouse and has been pummeled. How useful is that towards actually accomplishing any communication or change, or even towards having any credibility when making these claims or requests?

Thanks, anyone else? Any specific routes you'd care to recommend?

Anyone out there ever climb any good routes on Big Kangaroo? Any recommendations for a good route? Thanks, Steve

I wanted to see if anyone out there has any routes to recommend on Chablis Spire. I saw a slide show recently which got me interested, but I don't remember which route was featured in the show. The rock looked great, however. I have Beckey's bible, but wanted to get some input outside of his descriptions, as well as some evaluation of the quality of the routes (something Beckey's book is often lacking). Any beta on route choice, recommended gear, etc is welcome. Thanks in advance. Steve

As of Tuesday, it's patchy and melting out pretty fast for the lower half or so. Still snowy up high, however. Questionable for snowmobiles pretty soon due to downed trees across road and diminishing snowpack. - steve

Funny story about REI climbing dept. True story. My friend Robes went to REI and was up in the maps/books section when he saw Beckey, or someone he thought was Beckey. The Beckey character had been gazing at the maps when he gave some furtive glances and headed straight for the exit, buying nothing. The clincher: He was wearing penny loafers. So in an attempt to ascertain whether or not it was a Beckey-sighting, Robes went to the climbing dept. and asked the fellow behind the desk if he had perhaps seen Beckey there that day. The fellow said, "Who's Becky? Does she work here?" Robes: "No, Fred Beckey." Still no sign of recognition. Robes: "You know, the guy who has done first ascents all over the Cascades?" REI dude: "I'm from California." Robes: "He's also done first ascents all over the Sierras, Baja . . . you Really never heard of Fred Beckey????" REI dude (getting pissed off now): "Look man, I DON'T KNOW WHO HE IS!" and he storms off. Robes goes up to the other dude behind the counter and asks him what's up with the first dude. Second REI DUDE (getting defensive of First Dude): "Look, man, not everyone is from Seattle, you know." Funny shit. Question for the cascade climbers: How about it? Would Beckey be seen in the maps dept. wearing penny loafers???? [ 04-03-2002: Message edited by: goatboy ]

I hiked up to the bivy site at the base of Snow Creek Wall about 2 weeks ago and there was verglas and snow and the crack pitches on the Shield were vertical, white streaks of snow. The Wall may look somewhat dry in the image, but I would be very surprised if it was in good climbing shape right now. Somehow, I feel like I'm stating the obvious here. Steve

My understanding is simplistic, but here goes: Clipping two 8 mm ropes into one piece is similar to clipping one 16 mm rope into the same piece. It increases the force placed on the piece in a lead fall by reducing the dynamic properties of the ropes. Still, there are times when it's best to do so, ie. protecting both seconds on a short traverse, when you want both ropes clipped in to each piece.

Since the reverso belays straight off the anchor, I'm having a hard time envisioning how to make the zig zag effect you mention. Would you have the belay rope come up through a biner, then back down to the Reverso? Hard for me to see how to do this while keeping it in line with the anchor's direction of pull. Please forgive if I'm being obtuse.

Since the reverso belays straight off the anchor, I'm having a hard time envisioning how to make the zig zag effect you mention. Would you have the belay rope come up through a biner, then back down to the Reverso? Hard for me to see how to do this while keeping it in line with the anchor's direction of pull. Please forgive if I'm being obtuse.

Here's my preferred method: Take a 50 (or even 60!) meter skinny rope (like a 8.5 or so) and double it. Have the leader tie into both ends. Have the follower clip into a figure-eight on a bight using two locking biners. This way, the leader can alternate clips on the double rope system and minimize rope drag. Also, it kees the two climbers close enough to communicate, and not too far apart for rope drag. This system works really well -- we used it last summer on Sharkfin Tower, N Ridge of Stuart, Prussik Peak W Ridge, and a route in Red Rocks (Frogland) just last week. Anyone else use this system?

Yeah, that double-biner idea might work to increase friction. Another idea is to have a separate locking biner for each of the two strands the two followers are climbing on. That way, the two can move independently and safely, each on their own locking biner. Just an idea, haven't actually tried this yet. I do own and like the Reverso very much, by the way.

I have seen snow in Joshua Tree every year for the past four -- usually flurries or such, but sometimes significant accumulation of several inches. It's glorious when the Joshua Trees are covered in snow, by the way. Ranger Rick has a short memory! - Steve

quote: Originally posted by Dru: Two Words and a grade: GRIT ROOF 10c We tried this one in November, with a buddy who lives down there who had climbed it before. It is now easily 5.11 or harder, as a key flake foothold is now gone, leaving you to try a one-armed (left handed at that) pullup on an insecure jam with no feet instead of the 5.10c move that it used to be with the foothold. I tried to figure-four the thing for fun (and in desperation) but to no avail -- too pumped. Five of us tried it, and no one could do the move. Aided it in the end. I'm very curious if anyone else has climbed this one lately and if they have a different take on it????

I received an email about a year ago stating that the Fred Beckey documentary, which was then in production, may be released at the Telluride Mountainfilm festival this May. Last I heard, the filmmaker was going to Europe to try to interview some of Beckey's old climbing partners (Heinrich Harrer and maybe Helmy?) I have received no further info, and wonder if any of you folks know what's up with that -- if the movie will be in Telluride, or if it's not ready yet.

Very interesting responses . . . anyone else?

Hey Ivan, I am also originally from Richmond, now living in Washington State (since 93, actually). And I'm moving to Portland in a few months. Curious what brings you out here, other than good judgment?

Check out this J tree website [ 03-13-2002: Message edited by: goatboy ]