goatboy

Thanks for all the info, folks. I took crampons and ski poles on N Ridge Stuart a few weeks back and it worked great. Might do something similar on Serpentine . . .

There's an infamous "classic" at Joshua Tree called Double Cross which the locals there call "Pumpkin Head" for the same reason. Easy to peel off, pretty stiff for the 5.7 rating, awkward at the crux -- and many weekend warriors think that since they're climbing fifty feet from their car, that a helmet would be "uncool" to wear -- or even uncool to OWN. Another story: I was climbing at Suicide Rock (across the valley from Tahquitz Rock in Idyllwild, California). The name "Suicide" seemed apt in the case of Igor, who shakily climbed about 30 feet up, plugged in a cam, pitched off, ripped the piece, and broke his head open like a melon. We evac-ed him to an ambulance, where he told us that he had been at the gear shop that morning with his paycheck -- in one hand he had a helmet, in the other hand, the cam that later ripped. He obviously opted for the cam over the helmet. Interesting, what some folks consider to be "protection." Anyway . . . I wear my helmet a lot more than I used to, and am amazed sometimes at the situations in which folks DON'T wear them (i.e. ice-climbing, mountaineering on a popular route below other parties, etc).

I'm gonna assume all of you folks are talking about de-proaching down to Aasgard (rather than back towards Colchuck?)

Anyone been on this route lately? I'm curious if any of the recent snowfall has accumulated on the ridge and if ice ax/crampons are recommended for the descent this late in the year. Also, is it possible to descend to Colchuck Col, or preferable to go over to Asgard? I know what the guidebooks say, but thought I'd check in for any other opinions. Unless I hear compelling reports otherwise, I'm inclined to take crampons and an ax up the ridge in order to descend the back side to Asgard, but I await any suggestions otherwise. Thanks much, Steve

The Bone! So good! Any chance of posting those videos online? I don't know how hard or easy that is to do, but I'd love to see footage of that thing!

Due to circumstances _entirely_ beyond my control, I missed the Fall Rope-Up. I did manage to do some climbing in Idaho and eat some Thai food, but that's another story. If I could vicariously visit the event via some tales from folks who bravely attended, I'd appreciate it very much. If there aren't any good stories, or if you -- ahem -- can't remember very much from the gathering, feel free to just make some shit up. I won't know the difference. Anyone?

My thoughts on Ice Cliff Glacier, for what its worth: I climbed N Ridge Stuart a few weekends back (same weekend as Lambone did, I seem to recall from previous posts) and there were absolutely MASSIVE avalanches echoing around that little glacial cirque between the North Ridges of Sherpa and Stuart. It was very, very impressive, though it made me glad I was on a ridge and not down on the glacier . . . The icefalls I heard started around 9:30-ish I believe and continued throughout the day -- I don't know if there was any earlier in the day than that -- but the take home message, for me, is that unless it gets considerably colder, my comfort level would lead me to avoid that area, certainly during the bulk of the daylight hours. Of course, daylight hours are growing shorter by the day . . . Anyway, I do recall from earlier readings that many people have climbed the route this late in the year and succeeded -- so clearly it CAN be done. For the brave who care to follow in their footsteps, good luck. But you won't see ME up there anytime soon! Take care, all Steve

Nice Photo!

Haven't climbed the East Peak, but have climbed the East Ridge of the North Peak and observed, from the ridgecrest/notch just below the East Summit, that there were a few fixed anchors (or nests of abandoned slings) that should facilitate descending the East Peak once you summit. The climb along the East Ridge of the North Peak is pleasant, once you're on the ridge crest -- sounds like you'll avoid the approach gully, which was nothing short of loose and unpleasant if not unsafe. The so-called 5.7 step near the end of the East Ridge didn't seem hard to me, though there were several variations evident, some of which could have been harder. Post a Trip Report when you return! By the way, there is a summit register atop the South Peak (walkup) -- none atop the North Peak -- and who knows atop the East Peak. Good luck.

Check out: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/ubb/Forum2/HTML/000156.html

I was wondering if anyone had any opinions about these boots and their weaknesses or merits. I'm looking to buy a boot that is good to approach and climb in (rather than carrying extra rock shoes). The HyperGuide is less rigid than the Trango, but they both have sticky rubber rands and seem good for things like N Ridge of Stuart and/or Serpentine Arete. I know there was a thread back in march about different approach boots, but wanted to see if there was any new opinions 6 months later. Thanks in advance for any info. Steve

I have a betamid and like it very much, however, unlike the older BD Megamid (pyramid shaped, floorless tent) it leaks through the seams. This is nothing that some seam seal wouldn't fix, I suppose. Other than this one problem, I like my betamid very much. Had some fellows admiring it in Boston Basin back in July -- they had lugged a big, heavy tent up that "Beckey-type"(vertical) trail into the Basin and were drooling over the less-than-three-pound betamid. They do look a little bit like a circus tent, all bright yellow . . . but I don't mind.

From yesterday's Seattle Times: The injured party was a nurse, currently listed in "satisfactory" condition at the hospital in Wenatchee. She and her husband were hiking/scrambling on Kangaroo Ridge and she fell down the NW Face. Tough place to evacuate someone from, in my opinion. Sounds like they all did a good job of responding to the incident. Best wishes to any of her friends or family who may be reading this.

I heard that someone had put in bolted rap anchors all the way down Outer Space a few years ago (maybe 3-4 years now?) As if that route needed something to make it more inviting to the masses! Obviously, they are now gone, as they should be. Anyone remember the story behind all that? Just curious. goat-lad

I say bivy at the notch. Great sites (though water-free this late in the season) and in my opinion easy to complete the ridge from there. No need to climb higher to less comfortable bivy to gain time but lose sleep. Better yet, don't bivy at all! I was with Kevin and we really enjoyed the lightweight alpine push -- not having bivy gear allowed us to summit in a day and return to the car in a 19-hour push. Damn good experience, which I recommend. Of course, the high bivy is also unforgettable, with great views of sunrise over Glacier Peak . . . Whatever you do, enjoy!

Teen pornography is what I'd call the Rodden shots from last year. And I see in the new Outside that some fashion designer (I think it's Chanel) is now making climbing helmets and harnesses (super expensive) and ice axes (so precious they're not even for sale??) What the HELL is going on in the world?

Instead of an armed militia, how about climbers arming themselves with trashbags and cleaning up the joint? John Crock sent me the following message last week: "I'm the Eastern WA-N. ID board member for the FCCC (Frenchman Coulee Climbers Coalition). We're having a cleanup-gear-auction-keg of beer on Sat. Oct 13 at the Frenchman Coulee (Vantage) main parking lot. We had a similar cleanup last spring that was not well attended, but we managed to pick up a whole pickup load of garbage. The area is somewhat trashed right now after a summer of concerts at the gorge and unfortunately, climbers get blamed for a lot of the garbage by the WA Dept. of wildlife who manages the land. Garbage bags will be provided and it would be great if everyone picked an area and picked up the garbage in it. We will also have a gear auction to raise money for more permanent toilets. The current toilets are there courtesy of the FCCC and Access Fund. This summer we also bought a gate and had it installed to close off a four-wheel drive/party road that went up the hill from the main parking lot. Also there has been some graffitti spray-painted on some of the rocks and we would like to remove it before it spawns more. Lastly, there will be a free keg at the end of the day to reward your efforts." I hope that many cascadeclimbers will be able to attend this cleanup. [This message has been edited by goatboy (edited 09-13-2001).] [This message has been edited by goatboy (edited 09-13-2001).]

Doesn't seem like the sort of person who seeks out Golden Horn is the sort to be seeking being guided up Everest's summit to me . . . I saw Golden Horn from Black Peak a few weeks ago -- it certainly presents a striking skyline, though doesn't look to be very attractive as far as climbing goes... On the other hand, speaking of traverses, a traverse from Golden Horn to Tower Mtn might be an enjoyable alpine scramble . . . How do you approach that thing, go up the Hart's Pass Road or something?

I saw a climbing mag in canmore last winter called "Gripped" -- great name! It showcases canadian areas, ice, mixed climbing, etc -- good photos in the one issue I bought. They have a site: check em out www.gripped.com I've only seen the one issue, what do others think of this publication as an alternative? Steve

OR gaiters are great, and last a long time, in my experience. Their customer service may or may not suck ... .

Holy shit, Shuksan huh? Maybe so ..... But it seemed relatively flat-topped as I recall, and seemed pretty far north of Baker . . .

As I recall, it appeared to be North and maybe slightly East of Baker. It was big and looked volcanic to me. Certainly snowy and glaciated on it's southern side. That's why I guessed it was Garibaldi. Shows what I know.

Hmmmm. I shot some slides of the distant mystery peak, will try to post them here when they come back -- that might help clarify things. Give me a week or so on this. S

Hey fellahs, I was up there too and took note of the small glaciated peak way to the North. I could clearly see Baker to the North, Glacier (closer and less snowy) and I guessed at the time that the small, glaciated peak way to the north was in Canada, and that more specifically it was Garibaldi (in the Whistler/Blackcomb area, as I recall). Did you folks notice the FLAGPOLE, just to the East, sticking up from below the summit of Pennant Peak? Very cool looking little spire. Any canadians out there want to verify Garibaldi? Can you see it from Stuart?

This weekend: Climbed N Ridge of Stuart (via Gendarme) car-to-car. Great way to go, light and (somewhat) fast -- took us 19 hours. Carried ski poles instead of ice ax, seemed to really speed us up descending the cascadian and slogging on trails . . . Great trip, good weather (though a bit windy around the shady gendarme, brrrrrr.) Regarding having patience with the Mountaineers' learning process: I'm certain that the Mountaineers teach many important skills during their classes -- but I'm not certain that they always teach (or model) consideration to other parties. Good point that we can all check their website and avoid whatever peak they're teaching on... But is tying up the only way off a backcountry peak for 1.5 hours really a good thing for the students to be learning? I have had similar encounters (sat on top of Ingalls peak for 3 HOURS waiting for a huge group of mountaineers to descend -- EPIC!) I could have checked their website and not gone their -- but actually, in my particular case, there were two large parties from two different mountaineers clubs who hadn't even checked their OWN websites, and double-booked the peak that weekend. Grim. My point: Sure, we can take responsiblity for not checking the website of Peaks to Be Avoided, but couldn't the leader of the group on Kangaroo Temple have handled the situation in a way that would have not inconvenienced other climbers to the extent that they apparently did? I fear that in cases like this its a matter of large groups being insensitive to the other parties around them, and modelling that behavior for students learning to climb. I do agree, however, that if this type of behavior is a problem, then we (the general public) can do a better job of checking their website and avoiding them. Steve