goatboy

Funny story about REI climbing dept. True story. My friend Robes went to REI and was up in the maps/books section when he saw Beckey, or someone he thought was Beckey. The Beckey character had been gazing at the maps when he gave some furtive glances and headed straight for the exit, buying nothing. The clincher: He was wearing penny loafers. So in an attempt to ascertain whether or not it was a Beckey-sighting, Robes went to the climbing dept. and asked the fellow behind the desk if he had perhaps seen Beckey there that day. The fellow said, "Who's Becky? Does she work here?" Robes: "No, Fred Beckey." Still no sign of recognition. Robes: "You know, the guy who has done first ascents all over the Cascades?" REI dude: "I'm from California." Robes: "He's also done first ascents all over the Sierras, Baja . . . you Really never heard of Fred Beckey????" REI dude (getting pissed off now): "Look man, I DON'T KNOW WHO HE IS!" and he storms off. Robes goes up to the other dude behind the counter and asks him what's up with the first dude. Second REI DUDE (getting defensive of First Dude): "Look, man, not everyone is from Seattle, you know." Funny shit. Question for the cascade climbers: How about it? Would Beckey be seen in the maps dept. wearing penny loafers???? [ 04-03-2002: Message edited by: goatboy ]

I hiked up to the bivy site at the base of Snow Creek Wall about 2 weeks ago and there was verglas and snow and the crack pitches on the Shield were vertical, white streaks of snow. The Wall may look somewhat dry in the image, but I would be very surprised if it was in good climbing shape right now. Somehow, I feel like I'm stating the obvious here. Steve

My understanding is simplistic, but here goes: Clipping two 8 mm ropes into one piece is similar to clipping one 16 mm rope into the same piece. It increases the force placed on the piece in a lead fall by reducing the dynamic properties of the ropes. Still, there are times when it's best to do so, ie. protecting both seconds on a short traverse, when you want both ropes clipped in to each piece.

Since the reverso belays straight off the anchor, I'm having a hard time envisioning how to make the zig zag effect you mention. Would you have the belay rope come up through a biner, then back down to the Reverso? Hard for me to see how to do this while keeping it in line with the anchor's direction of pull. Please forgive if I'm being obtuse.

Since the reverso belays straight off the anchor, I'm having a hard time envisioning how to make the zig zag effect you mention. Would you have the belay rope come up through a biner, then back down to the Reverso? Hard for me to see how to do this while keeping it in line with the anchor's direction of pull. Please forgive if I'm being obtuse.

Here's my preferred method: Take a 50 (or even 60!) meter skinny rope (like a 8.5 or so) and double it. Have the leader tie into both ends. Have the follower clip into a figure-eight on a bight using two locking biners. This way, the leader can alternate clips on the double rope system and minimize rope drag. Also, it kees the two climbers close enough to communicate, and not too far apart for rope drag. This system works really well -- we used it last summer on Sharkfin Tower, N Ridge of Stuart, Prussik Peak W Ridge, and a route in Red Rocks (Frogland) just last week. Anyone else use this system?

Yeah, that double-biner idea might work to increase friction. Another idea is to have a separate locking biner for each of the two strands the two followers are climbing on. That way, the two can move independently and safely, each on their own locking biner. Just an idea, haven't actually tried this yet. I do own and like the Reverso very much, by the way.

I have seen snow in Joshua Tree every year for the past four -- usually flurries or such, but sometimes significant accumulation of several inches. It's glorious when the Joshua Trees are covered in snow, by the way. Ranger Rick has a short memory! - Steve

quote: Originally posted by Dru: Two Words and a grade: GRIT ROOF 10c We tried this one in November, with a buddy who lives down there who had climbed it before. It is now easily 5.11 or harder, as a key flake foothold is now gone, leaving you to try a one-armed (left handed at that) pullup on an insecure jam with no feet instead of the 5.10c move that it used to be with the foothold. I tried to figure-four the thing for fun (and in desperation) but to no avail -- too pumped. Five of us tried it, and no one could do the move. Aided it in the end. I'm very curious if anyone else has climbed this one lately and if they have a different take on it????

I received an email about a year ago stating that the Fred Beckey documentary, which was then in production, may be released at the Telluride Mountainfilm festival this May. Last I heard, the filmmaker was going to Europe to try to interview some of Beckey's old climbing partners (Heinrich Harrer and maybe Helmy?) I have received no further info, and wonder if any of you folks know what's up with that -- if the movie will be in Telluride, or if it's not ready yet.

Very interesting responses . . . anyone else?

Hey Ivan, I am also originally from Richmond, now living in Washington State (since 93, actually). And I'm moving to Portland in a few months. Curious what brings you out here, other than good judgment?

Check out this J tree website [ 03-13-2002: Message edited by: goatboy ]

Hmm, maybe he did . . . he lead it on bolts without placing any trad gear -- so if you remember supplementing the bolts with gear, then it sounds to me like he DID miss a gear placement. Having a good piece nearby would have certainly minimized the pucker factor on that pitch . . .

Okay, I'm just curious what sort of conversation this will generate. You know how some routes suck, and you'd never do them again? And you know how some routes are okay, but you'd still not do them again? Well, what are some routes that you folks have done which you'd like to repeat or which you tend to repeat regularly? I'm most interested in ALPINE routes, though whatever sort of routes you'd like to mention are interesting to me as well. Personally, I've done Outer Space about 4 times . . . and Monkey Face Pioneer Route a few times . . . and The Beckey Route on Liberty Bell about 5 times, and the South Arete on South Early Winter Spire about 4 times . . . . just because they're quality routes and fun and very approachable. Seems like I tend to do them when there's out-of-town folks visiting and I want to just go fire a quality route that I know they'll really enjoy. Anyone else?

Figures on a Landscape: Stellar climb, but a pretty serious lead, in my view. I followed it in November, and recall that the crux move on pitch 1 comes about 20 feet above the first bolt, with a heinous pendulum and possible groundfall. The climb starts on a ledge and goes far right to the first bolt. The crux is getting past a dike system to the 2nd bolt on very thin holds. At this point, you've clipped a single bolt and traversed up and right about 20 feet over a precipice -- so the fall would be GRIM. If you bungle the sequence there, you're way committed and in a bad way. I thought it was very hard for the rating, even to follow. I am not a great climber, but not a bad one, and I felt that it was hard compared to other 5.10's in the Park. Illusion Dweller: Good climb, cruxy off the ground and at the very top. Popular. I was so pumped by the time I got to the top that I ended up aiding the last move after multiple whippers onto bomber gear. Maybe another day . . .

Breaking into 5.10? I'm not sure I'd second the recommendation for Bird on a Wire, as it is a multipitch climb with a hard-to-protect crux section -- maybe not the best one to break into 5.10 with. Bird of FIRE, on the other hand, is an outstanding 10A crack, mostly 5.9, with a 10A crux at the top with good gear. The start is bouldery and committing before you get gear, however. Hobbit Roof is a really fun 10B roof that is short -- thus the name -- and well protected at the crux. The bolted slab below the roof is 10d, but you can avoid it altogether by walking around it. The Exorcist is rated 10A but is really a bit harder because it's so polished -- but is super-well protected until the easy section at the top. I second all of "W"'s route selections. Note: they've moved the road through the park to the other side of intersection rock -- so things look a bit different now. Also, for a HARD 5.7, locate "Double Cross" on the Old Woman formation and have a go. Just protect well before getting out off the ledge onto the crack -- many visitors underestimate this section, leading locals to refer to this climb as "Pumpkinhead." Have fun! goatboy

Wow that's sick! When was this photo taken? We were there about a month ago, I think.

Last time I was at Smith, there was a fellow who used a stick clip for the first bolt, then climbed up to it, clipped into it, untied from the rope, lowered the end of the rope down, pulled up his stick clip (which extended to about 16 feet or more), clipped the NEXT bolt, then bat-manned up that rope and free climbed from there. That's ONE way to do it. I suppose.

My mistake. Bunny Flat it is. Hafta learn to read them damn topos proper, someday! Steve

On the lighter side: How about the old "Open a wine bottle with a small stopper" trick? Push the cork into the wine bottle, then slip a small size stopper down into the bottle and hook the cork from beneath, then pull the cork up and out with the stopper. Or use a biner to open a beer. Another good one is to put beer into one of the small streams crossing the snow creek trail as you hike up to the wall, then get your beers on the way out, ice cold!!! So good.

Well, as Viktor said, Leavenworth was glorious this past weekend -- Saturday was warm and blue, wind-free, and we climbed sun-warmed rock (after a snowy approach) on Castle Rock all day until the sun went down. Then on Sunday, it was shirt-free climbing in the sun on Duty Dome all day. So good! Thanks for the encouragement to make the long drive, Viktor. Steve

I have not climbed the route on Cedar Creek Wall Burdo mentions in his guide, though I agree with you that there is some odd calibration between different ratings in that book (I have climbed some other things in the Cedar Creek area and have found widely varying rock quality -- actually, some of the snow couloirs and scrambles are more enjoyable up there, for this reason). On the topic of varying ratings, for example, the 5.7's in the alpine setting that he mentions (such as "Archer") are rather stiff and exciting for the rating, while the 5.10's at Fun Rock (in Mazama) are rather light and easy for a 5.10. Whatever. If you do the Cedar Creek Wall, post a TR and let us know how it is! Good luck. goatboy

Cedar Creek wall is in a very wild, cool part of the range. However, the rock quality is not up to some of the other nearby formations. There are often backpackers camping in the Cedar Creek basin as well. I would recommend "Archer" on Black Horse Point (also in Burdo's guide) over Cedar Creek for the following reasons: The coolest things about this climb are the views, the position of the peak, the solitude in an otherwise crowded corner of the range, the sense of exploration, and most of all, the geology. Views: Great looks at Silverstar and the Wine Spires, and the Liberty bell/Early Winters massif. Position: Unusual perspective on the wine spires. Solitude: Saw no one at all up there over a weekend, which I think is pretty common. Exploration: When we climbed the route, there was no evidence (other than the guidebook description) that it had ever been climbed by anyone. Unusual for WA pass. Geology: You climb a pretty steep (40+ degrees, I'd say) couloir (steep, hard consolidated snow -- we roped up in the couloir and belayed, placing rock pro in the walls on the right side) to get to a very cool stone arch, which you pass under, then walk across to access the first pitch. Very memorable. The climb would be even better with more traffic for the occasional loose section and the cracks full of larch/pine needles. Snow in the couloir is vastly preferable to loose rock, so I reccommend a June ascent after the rock is dry but before the couloir melts out. The approach described in Burdo's book is, by the way, far from what he experienced. Burdo describes "hiking through open forest" or some such implication of an easy hike. It was a lot of bushwhacking and occasional 4th class rock steps, at least the way we went in (and out).

hey folks, I may be down in california in mid-march and am wondering if any of you have climbed Casaval Ridge on Shasta and if so, would you consider a one-day car-to-car climb as reasonable for you given the terrain? Proactive anti-spray disclaimer: I know that you can't say whether or not it's reasonable for ME -- but if several of you think that it would be do-able for you, it may help me make my own self-assessment. I do know that the parking lot is at 8,000 feet or so, and the summit is over 14,000 -- so that's a long day. I'm also curious if the road to the parking lot is normally open in mid-march? Thanks in advance for any info, folks. Steve