goatboy

Anyone else????? NF versus NF Couloir?

Great TR, thanks -- sounds good! I have never heard much about this climb before, so thanks! Steve

Yeah, I agree. It wasn't that hard, and rather short . . . but still kinda loose and unpleasant compared to the relatively pleasant climbing from Sahale over to that point . . .

WORD! Thankfully, that section was rather short, as I recall . . . Anyone else want to weigh in on this comparison between the NF and NF Couloir?

Hyperspud sports in Yakima (and in Moscow, ID) probably has the most current dirtbag guidebook with photocopied pages. Give em a call or go to hyperspud.com

Hi David, Thanks for the response -- was the rock conducive to rock pro at all? We soloed the NF but I may be climbing the NFC with a partner and belaying it . . . Also, did you encounter any alpine ice or was it neve? The NF was 90% neve when I did it, with maybe 60 meters of alpine ice at the very top . . . Thanks!

Seems like many folks talk about climbing Buckner's classic NF route, but I rarely hear much about the NF Couloir route. For those of you who have climbed the Couloir, or who have climbed BOTH routes, please give some info about the quality of the route and how it might compare in difficulty, objective hazard, or bergschrund complications to the North Face route. I have climbed the North Face, so I am familiar with that route (we did it in September, so the schrund was huge but was easily bypassed via the snowfield to the left). Thanks very much! goatboy

In response to your question about Sharkfin, it's a magnificent (though short) climb on solid rock with great views of the Boston Glacier and Mt Buckner. The approach up the steep snow couloir, depending on how melted out that is and the condition of the moat at the bottom, may well prove more challenging than the Ridge climb itself. Time on route: Once we reached the notch on sharkfin ridge (the base of the route) -- which took us about 1.5 hours from the low camp at Boston Basin -- we simulclimbed the ridge itself in about 30 minutes. Descending via rappels took about another 45 or an hour, I believe. I hear that the North Face route (opposite the South Ridge) on Sharfin is a solid, pleasant few pitches of 5.7 -- my friend did it the same day we were up on the South Ridge. The rock on Sharkfin tower is so unbelievably good, especially considering how close it is to Boston Peak, which sports "improbably bad" rock similar to oatmeal. I think you're smart to plan on doing these routes out of a high camp in Boston Basin before trying to blast any of them in a day with a novice partner. The # of times I've seen (or been) a party epic-ing on or near Forbidden Peak is mythical. Have fun, what a spectacular place -- one suggestion: camp at the high camp (right below the south face of Forbidden) rather than lower down in the basin. It's less crowded and closer to Forbidden Peak objectives, and higher up in case you decide to climb over to Sharkfin or Sahale.

CLICK ME AND LEARN MORE Funny line: "They dug a snow pit and found the snow to be cold."

I assume Tom is highlighting the significance of the DATE which this came out. If that date means nothing to you, then heh heh heh

Thanks for asking. I actually got a few PM's asking the same thing, so for the record: The snow arete is on the South Ridge of Mt. Dixon in the Southern Alps of New Zealand, about this time last year. It's a nice long, moderate New Zealand Grade 2+, which entails some glacier travel, a bergschrund crossing, about 5.7 rock climbing on pretty good rock (for New Zealand), a few hundred feet of steep snow and ice, and the long moderate snow arete seen in the picture. As the photo shows, you get several thousand feet (at least) up off of the Grand Plateau glacier, with constant exposure and extremely aesthetic climbing. The descent takes you down a long snow ridge/arete of gentler angle, almost as aesthetic as the ascent. Highly recommended, though somewhat overshadowed by the hulking mass of Mt Cook nearby -- a bit like climbing something mild on Ingalls Peak and feeling insubstantial as you look up at the mass of Stuart nearby . . . the beer still tasted good back at the hut, I'll say that much at least.

There is absolutely no award that is as meaningful, to me, as that which is given by your peers. Believe it or not, it means a great deal to me to have so many people see my photos at all, let alone vote for it. It was especially meaningful when the other photographers are as talented and the other photos as great as they were. Thanks a lot for organizing the competition, Michael, and thanks to everyone who posted their pictures and voted and made it fun. - goatboy

It's frustrating when something changes -- i.e. management -- and it affects a community who feels like they have already established their local culture, rules of conduct, etc. However, what matters most (in my opinion) is what the pre-existing community chooses to do with that new situation. You can complain about it on an internet community that will probably offer all kinds of insults and support (see previous post) or you can get together with the other folks you mentioned in your original post and attempt to respectfully communicate with the folks who are now running the gym. You can talk to them instead of about them. If you haven't already tried that, then I submit that spending your time and energy HERE may buy you sympathy from people, but won't do anything to help you with your situation. If you go talk to the folks at the gym (other than calling bullshit on them, which didn't seem to get you very far) then please let us know how it goes. I hope you're able to communicate your concerns to them in a productive manner.

Nice work!! I can't imagine what that place must have been like in winter . . . In response to Colin's observation about this being the first winter ascent, I recall that a North Face team climbed and skied the NF of Buckner a year or two ago -- was that not in winter? Or was it already spring by then? Regardless, great work and thanks for posting the TR and pictures! Glorious.

Yeah, very good pro -- bomber camalots up to # 3. I can say the pro was bomber with certainty, as I did in fact fall onto it! The climbing itself was rather challenging, however, given the slick wet rock. I also was attacking the crack head on (it overhangs slightly) rather than back stepping to a big, obvious foothold (essentially defeating the overhang by stemming backwards). I found the obvious foothold and climbed it more easily after falling off the first time. There is also a fixed chain anchor up there near the top of the offwidth, which I was able to clip as pro before topping out and walking off.

Climb: Broughton Bluff-Gandalf's Grip (5.9+) (Plus what, I want to know?) Date of Climb: 2/10/2004 Trip Report: Climbed this nice three pitch line yesterday at Broughton on a clear, warm day. I had never been on it before, but thought it would be well within my ability. I found it to be remarkably steep and strenuous for the rating! Encountered 2 bats angrily screeching at me on the first pitch. It was unnerving, as I was reluctant to stuff my chilly fingers into the crack, but had no choice. I fell off (right above the last bolt) leading the first pitch after mis-reading the sequence and pumping out. The proper sequence is: Grab the huge handholds and pull up. Instead, I grabbed other things and fell down. I also casted off on the third pitch, a soaking wet offwidth. Both places where I fell, it was due to me missing some obvious holds -- I guess I was off that day. I highly recommend the route -- it was shady and the rock was cold, but the weather is sweet and warm enough to climb it in a t shirt, which we did. From the top, there is a great view of Mt Jefferson to the south. Gear Notes: Small stoppers and aliens were helpful Should have had: Shoes to walk off with on muddy trail Approach Notes: muddy and full of kids and dogs

Climb: Smith Rocks-Zebra Zion -- 5.10b Date of Climb: 2/8/2004 Trip Report: Had a great climb in perfect weather today at Smith. I have climbed the route before and suffered through the hanging belay atop pitch 1, but thanks to some common sense and good beta, we managed to link pitches 1 and 2 into a very reasonable sub-60 M pitch that took us to the top of the tower. My partner Robes linked these pitches in good style. I drew the short straw and got the vibracious lead out onto the unprotected, easy face. Felt like forever until I got good gear, at which point I was fairly close to the belay. My lovely fiancee Tamara fired the 4th pitch, great job on her part. It starts off with a pumpy hand traverse that leads quickly to a soaring, steep crack with huge handholds and foot holds, with fantastic exposure looking all the way back down to the base of the route. Clearly the best pitch on the route, I would say. Walked over to Cinnamon Slab and rappelled down, raced back to Portland in about 3 hours and went straight to TOUCHING THE VOID. What an incredibly well done documentary/movie. Great weekend, all in all.

I have a betalight and I love the thing. I just some them for sale at the Mountain Shop on Broadway, in PDX. If you want, you could let me know when you're coming through and maybe I could get one for you or something. Steve

Alpenglow on Eldorado -- As seen from Torment North Face, Mt Buckner -- Forbidden, Eldorado, Baker in background Sunset on Quien Sabe Climbing a Ridge in New Zealand's Southern Alps Glacial runoff from Davenport Glacier Thanks Dru and slothrop and others who helped me negotiate cyberspace!

What's the reason for not doing it on skis? Seems to me that it would depend on snow conditions, depth, temperature, etc. I personally never approach anything on skis because I can't ski well and I'm too lazy to learn, but I know that some people prefer it . . . Just curious about the reason for this suggestion. Steve

Here's a question I shouldn't NEED to ask, but . . . . How do I post photos to this thread? I have some pictures in the "My Gallery" page. When I start a new thread, I get a "POST PICTURES FROM MY GALLERY" link which is easy to use. But when I reply to this thread, it's not so intuitive. I have a few images to share if someone will kindly walk me through the steps. Thanks. And flame away for my ineptitude at the cyber-manipulation. Goatboy

Yocum Ridge is already included in Nelson's Vol I. Second Edition.

The Photos of the Banks Lake ice climbs are mis-labeled, from what I can tell. The one labelled Absent Minded Professor appears to be Zenith, from what I can tell having been to Banks just once, with the Washington Ice Climbs book. Local Banks climbers please correct me if I'm wrong.

Riiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiight . . . . . I do know some folks who climbed the West Face route and the NW Corner route in the same day (the routes share the same start). It would be easy to climb the West Face route, rap off, and cruise up the South Arete of SEWS the same day. Another cool enchainment is what we call "The Battle of Lexington and Concord": 1) Hike up Beckey gully on Liberty Bell 2) Climb Beckey Route and rap back into notch 3) Climb N Face Concord (with all your gear, boots, etc) 4) Rap into notch between Concord and Lexington 5 Climb N Face Lexington and rap south face 6) Descend deep scree into Blue Lake Basin The whole thing goes at about 5.6, mostly easier. Makes for a fun day!

As I recall, the crux pitch is not too long -- maybe 30 feet or so? At least, the hard part is rather short. The pitch above that is straightforward for 5.10. The route overall is steep and exposed, on mainly good rock. Some of the sections getting up TO the crux entail exciting climbing on short, wide, harder to protect sections.