goatboy

Hmm, not sure how Cooper Spur is a good "first time climb"???

I like your poster -- great image! But I suggest you call it the Methow Valley, not the Mazama Valley....looks like fun!

Like 5.7 or 5.8 I think -- not too steep, dump-truck hand jams, fun stuff...

THE CRACK OF INFINITY!!!!!!!!!!!! So good!!!!!!!!!!!! I agree (for once) with KevBone that this 1st pitch is reasonably protected and repeatable...especially to get to the Handcrack above!!!!

Depends on freezing levels/temps the night before, eh? Check conditions and get started well before the temps rise.... Also depends on your overall speed and fitness... Slower parties often start around 1 or 2 AM from the parking lot....

LARRY DA TOOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

works fine for me, too....weird....

Hi AlpineMonkey, Nice photos -- nice to have such a place all to yourselves. Having climbed that route a few times before, I have a hard time imagining where you found climbable ice. Nor do I really see ice, as such, in the photo...can you elaborate? I was curious what you meant in the pre-amble to your TR where you said that "I find myself now looking for quality." What were you looking for before? I ask, respectfully, because these days I care much more about who I climb with than about WHAT I climb. I am curious what lead you to this new way of looking at things...

Hey MattP, Where the heck is Pancake Pinnacle??? Good to meet you at the picnic last week, btw....

So, I saw one of these bivies at a gear store over the weekend and it looked very cool -- but pricy at $300, I believe. Does anyone have one of these who would be willing to comment on it? I am curious about the weight, functionality, and value for the $.... Thanks! - GB

How about this one also from SP:

How exactly are you planning to get from BB to Eldorado? And how from Eldo to Hidden Lake?

Thanks to Gary and Matt (and whoever else worked on this) for organizing this gathering....it was fun and I look forward to the next one... Nice to see Beckey and many others in attendance! Great to meet many of you folks... Anyone got a few pictures to post?

Rodentia are a much bigger concern than bears, really... Make sure whatever you do is MOUSEPROOF! caching food that bears or other critters get into not only screws you on your food supply, it screws the animals too by giving them food they're not accustomed to and teaching them to associate humans (or our items) with food...for that reason, I would vote bear cannister or vehicle...

Wow -- I know it's always condition dependent, but what you climbed sounds quite a bit harder and more technical (a two hour lead!) than what Beckey describes... Good to know -- I always kinda thought of this as a mellow route to go check out sometime...

Cool! Looking forward to any photos.... Nice work! So good to see someone climb something other than TC's.... Not that there's anything wrong with TC's....

This has got to be the best thread ever for dragontail images and changing conditions....thanks to all for contributing!

I've lived in each place for about 5 years, so have perspective on both... PM me or email and I'd be happy to share some thoughts. The answer to your question really depends on your personality and what your needs are. Having said that, I have great things to say about both places.... FWIW, I live in Seattle now...so the west side won out over the east side in the end... The WSU Alpine Club was the best thing about my years in Pullman, by far...not sure what its status is these days, but it was great when I was there...even if it was full of crusty cynics who swill PBR...

Hey tvashtarkatena, Thanks for the photos! That second one is looking up the Hidden Couloir?

How long does the walkoff take -- about 45 minutes or so as I recall? Maybe the walkoff sucks a little if you screw it up and get cliffed out or whatever, but it's really very gentle by Cascade standards I would say.... Odd thing to complain about....wonder how you'd like the "walkoff" out of the Picket Range???

Pretty sure you can do this without needing to rappel, if you traverse and find the steep-snow chute to downclimb towards the Colchuck Col...

Hey Pup! How about a more complete TR with some more photos sometime? Thanks, Goat

I saw it. The scenery is jaw dropping and the music is great. The scene looking DOWN the NF from the top is also great. The portrayal of the female climber as "very strong, one of the best" followed by her inability to follow a traverse off the bivy ledge, and subsequent helicopter flight off the top, makes me wonder if they couldn't have chosen a female alpinist who is better able to represent her gender... The staged parts were dumb and unnecessary. All the footage drinking wine on the train and wandering the streets of quaint mtn villages added local flavor, but detracted from the punch of the movie, which struggles in 51 minutes to have clear focus or impact... The reenactment of Whymper's climb was very cool, though! Other reviews???

Great photos and a nice site.

I've been having the same problem for months...