goatboy

Yeah, I saw that too last time...but I had crampons, so just went the regular way...I was wondering how good that way was....thanks for the info!

Curious where exactly you did the "descent sans crampons". Was it further down the ridge past the standard glacier access (towards Annapurna?)

Alex posted a topo for Dreamer which was nicely done -- I wonder what software was used for that?

Considering their impressive range, I would say that they're really surprisingly LIGHT.... I am buying a few more #2's. The #2 is MUCH more useful and recommended than the #1, however. The #1 may not be worth the price.

Agreed - Probably the easiest way in. Do-able in two days.

That's SO Funny.

Super good point by Fern. I've been in this same situation a bunch of times.

Great idea....thanks for bringing it up!

A fair question -- I guess it's the difference between what gear you COULD use versus what I believe an average party NEEDS TO TAKE at minimum. If I had four #2's, I'm sure I could find places for them. Same with six #2's. But I wouldn't recommend that someone take six #2's up there....I would suggest that people take 2. Choosing to take more may be personal preference. I agree that I wouldn't want to fall on any of those chicken heads....though their very presence makes it less likely to take said fall, too....kind of a double-edged sword.

I agree with John that faster parties have a right to pass -- but there's still details about WHEN and HOW to pass which come down to safety, courtesy, and good style, don't you think?

I place a fair amount of gear when leading 5.8 or 5.9 sustained cracks like this, but disagree about needing 4 #2's. I think it's reasonable to do this climb with a few #2's and a #3, plus smaller sizes... Anyway, great TR with very honest details. Sounds like you got up and down the things safely and in daylight, which is more than the other parties could probably say!!! Not super-fun to locate and navigate the walk-off in the dark....

Enjoyable TR and some nicely chosen overview photos and ridge images! That's Cathedral Peak in the third photo, isn't it? With Eichorn Pinnacle visible on the right? What's the big bulbous dome nearby?

I think this is a pretty good rationale and idea...

I met the guys filming it in Ouray...so I can confirm that it exists -- but have no further details or info....

I may be dense (like the Cascade brush) but I'm not sure I "get it." Are you saying that these border patrols would be concerned with climbers crossing the border to climb, or somehow interfere with that process? Is it currently illegal to do so, and people just choose to do it anyway? I have not appraoched these peaks, but have always understood or assumed that it was legal to do so...can someone fill in the blanks for me here? Also, if there's a run on the N Side of Redoubt next summer, it will be due to threads like this one, I'm guessing...

The article about the helicopter rescue pilot, Tony Reece, is outstanding. That dude has saved a lot of lives at the risk of his own life -- great to see an article that puts a name and face on at least one of the MANY people who play such roles, often namelessly and thanklessly. Nice work, Lowell and team!!!!!!!!!!!

What a clever, cute, and ultimately original idea!

This one is actually my favorite -- evokes vivid memories and sense of place! Nice one!

Slesse? Spill the alleged beans.

More likely, brain RUST.

Cochise Stronghold has the biggest chickenheads I've ever seen -- similar to Fote Hog, but an endless wall of them, big enough and formed in a way that allows you to belay off of them... I will upload an image of them.... Note the rack lying uselessly by the slung-CH anchor! "What''s My Line" on Cochise Dome The Rockfellow Group in the same area

Good question -- it never worked for me every time I tried, but then again, I only did it for a few hours instead of hundreds of years....'cuz I'm lazy. I have, however, spent hours wearing away a nut tool trying to extract booty from cracks...often, on the SCW, incidentally.

Nice report and excellent tale of baptism. What are you actually climbing in the "one climbing image"?

Bachar Ladder = elbow tendinitis waiting to happen! Run away!

I believe there is one named after him in the BC Coast Range, is there not? Even so, I agree with the premise of this post -- just wanted to point that out.