goatboy

Okay. Hey Brian Burdo, what's the deal with your guidebook? Thanks, Goatboy on behalf of lots of people who might be interested

I called Feathered Friends, 2nd Ascent, and Vertical World to find a copy -- the word is that it won't be out until August or later.... tick tock, tick tock, the interminable wait for the promised Burdo guide continues.... Apparently, early copies were handed out at a Mazama event so folks could provide some feedback on the book before it went to press. Anyone get an advance copy???

...and sometimes there are huge snow formations on the ridge which someone once called "snow whales" !!!

Nice photos and good work on the climb.

The skagit gneiss of Triumph is edgy and positive, making great holds for hands and feet. It is very enjoyable climbing, often exposed, though usually very easy (except for the one steep pitch pictured in the TR, which is relatively short). I think it's a must-do climb for the total experience -- the views, the scenic (though long-ish) approach, the short glacier crossing leading to the long, moderate ridge -- sounds like Forbidden Peak, kind of, but I would say not nearly as good quality climbing. Having said that, I'm not likely to rush back to do it AGAIN...but I'm glad to have done it once and recommend it.

I've been going to NW Spine and Sports ... nwssp.com -- check em out!

That bolt is silly.

Thanks again everyone. Also, thanks bstach for the words of encouragement.

Climbing that snowy/icy couloir gives the route so much variety and alpine character. Once that thing melts out, I would recommend climbing the E Ridge instead, and returning via the East Ledges....but the West Ridge sure is fantastic...

Somehow, this seemed like a typo which I feel the need to point out -- not exactly the sentiment which I believe you were trying to convey!!!

I know how to turn this political (as if it already isn't) -- The head of Starbucks used to own the Seattle SuperSonics. He sold them out to a punk-ass from OK City who is now going to move the team there. So I hate Starbucks for ALL the reasons listed above, plus the fact that Seattle's first pro sports team is now leaving.... So, as if I needed another reason, I want to jump on the "F*&^ Starbucks" bandwagon too!!! Another why of saying it: "Their coffee may be dramatically over-priced, but at least the quality is super-low!!!"

Sounds good. Probably hasn't changed TOO much with the relatively cool temps we've been having...though I wonder about all the rain... I'll keep an eye out for coyotes! Thanks, GB

Hello, Hoping to take my father-in-law climbing this weekend and am wondering about conditions on the Quien Sabe Glacier. Does anyone have recent photos of the glacier or general conditions in Boston Basin? THANKS! GB

Stinky, Funny, I was just reading about these routes this morning and I think we may have a winner! Thanks to everyone for the great input and ideas. I'll post a TR about this isolated and little-known part of the world when I return...

Hey Gene, Thanks for the suggestions! Those ideas sounds closer to Banff than what I was originally thinking, at least....

Hey Yama, After reading that email exchange, I wouldn't say that you were very professional or polite at all. The company may have let you down and failed to do what they said, but the line about beating the guy with a baseball bat was ridiculous and may have been the beginning of the reason why the money wasn't refunded to you... If you were the manager, how would you have responded to someone writing to you the things that YOU wrote?

Thanks for the ideas and suggestions. I do have a partner for this trip, so would be happy to climb more technical routes if there are any more suggestions.

(sigh)....

Thanks, Feck. And Dru, I hear ya -- that's probably way too far -- please dis-illusion me! Gimme some recommendations! Thanks. But I didn't know there WAS any lovely rock up that way... Also, I don't need to end up back in Banff at the end of the day Sunday -- could sleep that night closer to the route I climb, as long as I'm back in Calgary by 3 or 4 PM Monday.... Thanks for any specific suggestions people can make.

Will be in Banff for wedding over Labor Day weekend. Wedding is Saturday and I have Sunday completely open, flying back to Seattle Sunday at 6 PM from Calgary. Thinking about climbing some snow/ice route that Sunday within easy driving distance from Banff. Looking for a 1-day climb, not an overnight affair. My main idea right now is something on Athabasca but would appreciate some other ideas. Something comparable to the N Face of Athabasca in terms of difficulty, or easier -- more interested in a lovely route that something very hard. Also heard good things about the Skyladder route and the Silverhorn Route. I have never done any summer climbing in this area, only winter trips -- so appreciate any advice or suggestions people can share. I may have to resort to drinking Canadian beer on this trip, but will probably bring a few IPA's just in case. Thanks, Goatboy

It's always passable via 4th class rock to climber's left. Rangers often say things are impassable.

Hmm, not familiar with Hair of the Dog Blue Dot...good???

wow -- I wonder if they make piss or grapefruit flavor?? By the way I admit to being wrong about SOME Canadians, at least... IPA LINK

That pitch that climbs through the big roof and up onto the 5.8 handcrack is nothing short of fabulous. We actually rapped from there back to the ground via double rope rappels...good, low-stress way to do it without missing any of the good climbing. I agree with your assessment of the route, btw... nice photos!

Any place to get the Rogue IMPERIAL ipa on tap in seattle (w/o going to Issaquah)????