goatboy

Chalmsky! Good to see you here! Remember to bring your pliers for future ascents...or at least a bottle of hooch... - gb

Question -- were there many snakes out and about? I've never been there in the spring without writhing hordes.... Sorry to hear about your lost book...

One additional note on S Arete: I observed that the bolt on the knife-edge hand-traverse near the summit has been pounded flat by someone who is either contrary to adding bolts to traditional routes, or opposed to the large groups and guided parties whom this bolt largely serves. The bolt is located in a fairly inconspicuous place on the climber's left of the ridge, where many don't even see it to begin with... My comment: I don't think the bolt was really useful to begin with -- the climbing in that section is exposed, but super-easy and can be made even easier "en cheval." But I also know that the bolt has been there for a long time (at least 10 years). Curious what would spur someone to flatten it NOW? I fear that this won't decrease the size of the groups or guided parties on this crowded route, but it might slow them down and make even more of a bottleneck than it tends to already produce...

Trip: SEWS - S Arete (up) - SW Couloir (down) Date: 5/20/2007 Trip Report: I have a few pictures I will post later... I have climbed these routes before, but always enjoy them both. It was wonderful to be in the mountains after several weeks stuck in town... The weather on the East Side was much better than forecasted -- cold and frozen snow, (mostly) blue skies, and little wind. I like to approach these two routes up Spire Gully (from the hairpin) instead of from the Blue Lake TH, due to the ease of descent directly to the car...basically, a fifteen-minute glissade! Route conditions: Good for S Arete, not good for SW Couloir. S Arete: Mostly dry rock, some lingering snow in places which actually improves the quality of the route somewhat in my opinon. SW Couloir: super firm snow and alpine ice, but melted out at the top, revealing very loose bedrock and kitty litter. No fun to climb at this point, I'd say...downclimbing the couloir is a viable option, however, when the S Arete is full of folks (as it often is)... There was a party of 7 (from Skagit Alpine Club) climbing in two groups on S Arete, but they kindly let me climb past them on the 1st pitch. Nice folks. Seemed like a mix of experienced and new climbers... There was a Spokane party of 2 ascending the couloir, but were high enough in the gully that I could rappel past them without pelting them with rocks. As I downclimbed the couloir, only one large rock came down my way, so I appreciate that they were aware of me down there.... Also ran into an old buddy from the WSU Alpine Club, Paul, and found out that we both live in Seattle now...small world! As I drove back west again, I stopped to take pictures of a few things along the way...and as I got west of the crest, the weather turned to shizzle pretty quick. It was raining super hard in Seattle when I pulled into the driveway.... This morning, I am pleasantly sore and happy to have been in such a lovely place, if only for a day... Gear Notes: I took a harness, a 30-meter 9 mm rope, a cordellette, crampons, and two light ice axes for downclimbing the couloir. The 30-meter rope allows a rappel over the rock step which you can walk to from the summit onto down-climbable snow.... Only used one ax for much of the downclimb, but the alpine ice section was nice to have two... Approach Notes: Hairpin -- > Spire Gully -- super good glissade back to car and

9 times out of 10.... Forget the snowshoes Forget the ice tools -- one ax is perhaps useful, depending on conditions Forget the crampons Remember to take coffee, camera, and a light rack because it's a long way in for a pretty easy (though great) route on great rock.

grab another out of your pool-side styro-foam "couliar"!

Thanks for the update, "Pup"!

...and girl(s)!

Lovely and inspiring photos. Looks like you took a harder variation at the top for sure... Nice work!

Hmmm..having had several cross-country and inter-continental long distance relationships, they were all character building but neither worked out. I was certain, at the time, that these people were 'soul mates' but in the end, my soul is in the NW and so is my mates'. I didn't need to move to Florida (aah!) or Germany to find happiness, and I doubt you'll find any in the god-forsaken plains of the midwest. So, call this person and tell them you love them and want them to come out here when they're ready. Then, forget about it and have a beer or go climb something. Worked for me!!!

Damn nice day for it! Who's in?

I've been hearing that for a LONG time....but if I had a farm, I wouldn't bet it that "soon" will be TOO soon....

Yeah, agreed - Fasulo's book is better in a lot of ways than the more recent one mentioned earlier in this thread. The drawings are easier to understand and learn from than the dark, confusing photos in the recent book.

Didja get a look at the North Face Couloir schrund situation?

Any official word from the NPS on Cascade River Road status?

So what's the actual law state re. the parking? Anyone know? Common Theory 1: You can park just before the sign that says, "entering Federal Fee area" and not get ticketed Common Theory 2: You need to be a certain distance from the trailhead (i.e. 1/4 mile) -- which might explain why the Federal Fee area sign is so far away from the TH up at the 8-mile (Colchuck/Stuart Lake) TH Anyone know the "right answer" (versus have a "guess" or "common sense" belief)?

Saturday: Didn't climb Sunday: Didn't climb but did go sea kayaking around the Arboretum (in Seattle)...fun! Today: At work. Still not climbing. I must be dumb.

Great photos and looks like great conditions!

THANKS A LOT, Pup! What were you doing up there, by the way?

NE Couloir on Colchuck Hello, Anyone have recent photos or route condition reports for NEC on Colchuck? **Due to confusion in the past, I want to clarify that this is the route to the climber's LEFT of the North Buttress Couloir and the the RIGHT of the standard Colchuck Glacier Route.** THANKS for any wisdom anyone can provide.

As I understand it, and please correct me if I am wrong, there was an original plan to build a road all the way to Cascade Pass (which is why the trail is sooooooo low angle and full of switchbacks) but the plan fell through...aren't we glad it did? Does the loss of a few extra miles of road really constitute a bad thing for the habitat and wilderness area we're talking about? I love easy access too, but don't need to see a new road go in there, or the old road replaced, honestly...

http://www.foxnews.com/story/0,2933,271862,00.html

Bummer. Best wishes to the kid.

A crowded day on OS is a normal day on OS I reckon! Out of curiosity, what time did these parties leave the parking lot? I remember finishing the final pitch of "Braille Book" in Yosemite by headlamp, and getting back to the car about midnight after the epic steep pine-needle descent.... kinda humbling, ain't it???

Such a wonderful place. I think the car-to-car SS climb is worth doing....once. BTW, "icycle creek" is actually the headwaters of Early Winters Creek.