goatboy

Yes -- what cbs said...that's what I'm talkin' bout!

That thing was smashed fairly flat last I saw it (two weeks ago I think) -- but you could probably thread a sling through it....or maybe a very narrow-profile carabiner?

Received via email - best wishes to Chaya and the family. Contrary to previous speculation, this was not a fatal accident.

in-situ nut still in place despite best efforts of

I know tha there is an "Explorer Post" climbing organization for youths in the PDX area -- not sure of their exact contact info -- but I know they're always grateful for donations!

Yeah, I saw spots where pro could go...but honestly the rock quality there was the sort of exfoliating, kitty litter rock that parts of Libert Bell seem to be afflicted with... I definitely agree with the "easily protected" part, but am not so sure about the "well protected" part in terms of actually holding a fall... TR-ing it was fun!

Here's my best shot at it...

No luck yet?

Kevin O, Would you do it again (on purpose)?

I second Rapple Grapple as a nice alternative to the Beckey Route. I noticed that the "Cave Route" on Concord had a huge pile of snow and ice in the cave entrance, making it not a savory choice right now unless you are sick. The regular N Face of Concord route was also still rather wet from lingering snow... We actually top-roped the first pitch of Overexposure after rapping off and it was fun, but seemed a bit thoughtful to adequately protect....really only a few hard, unprotected moves, but not appealing (to me) to lead it.

Looks like Colonial, Paul Bunyan's Stump, and Pyramid peaks to me...

Ya think? Oops, I just sprayed...

Way to go on your first alpine lead, LisaD! Great to meet you and Lee up there. What a glorious day! Thanks for the good summit company and PBR Tall-boys in the parking lot! Hope to see y'all again in the hills... - Goatboy

Interesting stuff - thanks -- could you tell how far below the "notch" (at the top of the gully) you were when you turned back?

Great photos -- thanks! The summit pyramid looks kinda icy and spicy! Why did you want more screws? I have heard that there is good rock pro you can get in near the ice steps.... I assume that was not what you found?

Bummer about Blackjack! I hope he turns up okay.

Boulder field = tempting but super bad Down by creek = mo bettah!

Nice photos. A good example of how the snow can improve the alpine character and quality of the route! The bolt is hiding on the climber's left of the narrow rock fin near the top - I believe it's shown in the second picture you posted, though it looks a lot snowier here than I'm used to seeing it.

So, here's what I said I was GOING TO DO: What ACTUALLY happened... Got scared off by the marginal weather forecast for the Stuart Range and ended up doing some fun rock climbing instead: Saturday: 7 pitches at Castle Rock (Fault, Catapult, Saints, Angel Crack) Sunday: White Slabs at SCW Monday: Canary at Castle, sit in traffic on HWY 2 to get home... Monday night -- I am now on my way to Sushi feast in Seattle at I Love Sushi on Lake Union....so good!!!

So, here's a closely-controlled scientific experiment: Curious what folks PLAN to do over the long weekend and then hearing what ACTUALLY happened once the weekend is over.... I'll start: My PLAN is to go climb in Leavenworth -- Objectives are SGC or NE Couloir on Colchuck depending on what the weather does... backup plan is cragging in the Icicle and Castle rock if weather dictates... What ACTUALLY happened...(will fill in after weekend) Anyone else want to play?

Noticed this on rc.com, fwiw... LINK ABOUT VANTAGE ANCHORS I reckon this comment applied to just about everywhere in spring after freeze-thaw, and isn't really Vantage-specific....

I think NBC on Colchuck is an excellent solo outing -- steep enough to be exciting, exposed in places, but mostly very secure and enjoyable...plus a relatively straightforward descent down the glacier. From the Colchuck/D-tail Col, you could scramble (there's that word again!) up Dragontail too as a solo bonus...

Interesting. A Mountie associate posts a fair warning, politely advises folks of what's coming, even states that they'll try to work around other climbers waiting on routes....NONE OF WHICH THEY HAVE TO DO, BY THE WAY.... and they get slammed with this: I wonder what motivation they should have to post similar warnings in the future if this is what they get? I don't like it when big groups monopolize popular areas...and I dread seeing such large groups show up, too...and perhaps a holiday weekend isn't the most considerate choice -- but they have to choose the weekend that best fits their groups' needs, not the needs of the general public.... I have slammed the mounties in the past and come to regret it after actually talking with some of them who are a lot more conscious about their impact than I previously thought.

Thanks so much, John. Oddly, the weather looks better on the west side right now.... low pressure?

Thinking about this route for the coming weekend but wondering about freezing levels...the best I can seem to come up with is still above freezing for Saturday night.... See WEATHER LINK Common sense says that this route is a good one to avoid when it's too warm....any expert opinions out there?