goatboy

Nice pot grip Tan-Snaffle!

If you don't mind my asking: Were you clipped in to the anchor with a daisy, or with the climbing rope itself? Either way, nice catch!!! :[] robo-belayer!

Sounds like the standard N Face route, then? Big difference between a 30 foot fall with a good belay anchor vs. the 75 foot fall ripping both climbers into free fall described above.... Glad your buddy is okay!

previous discussion of this topic from awhile back this spring... http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/684674/page/3#Post684674

Wow -- what a ride -- it's amazing the things that people walk away from... would love to hear the full tale when it's ready to be told... Very glad everyone is okay....

Any wildflowers out yet? That Snow Lakes area can sport some nice flora... I'm guessing it's still a little early for that....

So, the new C4's are appreciably smaller than the older Camalots, I take it...We took an older model #5 up there and it was adequate for the entire pitch...Though I think we used a 4.5 as well....

So....if you didn't find anything good to build an anchor with...and you didn't look too hard.... did you build an anchor and belay someone, or not? Or were you just walking around up there? And my suggestion would be to LOOK in person.... Not trying to be difficult, but the question seems odd to me.

In my experience, biking up that road is a pain, but SO good for the cruise back down....

Having never done this route, it seems like much of it would be preferable with a bit of consolidated snow cover....true???

True...true....

True, true.... maybe someday that will happen... I wonder how much climbing I'd do if I lived in Marblemount...or Newhalem????????

I'm wondering if like me, people have peaks they're interested in climbing which, for whatever reason (distance, logistics, laziness, whatever) they always seem to not find time to explore. For me, the entire Olympic Range stands out as a good example. Never seem to find time and a weather window to get in there to really explore the place. Another would be the Mt Maude area. Seems so far away for whatever reason, though I end up in Mazama and Leavenworth ALL THE TIME... Nooksack Tower would be another prime example...or the Spickard/Redoubt area... Anyone else???

Shakespeare reminds us that a hand jammy, by any other name, would still be just as dumb...

wow - is it just me, or is 30 miles in sub-10 hrs kinda....freaky fast time? Nice work!

Sat: Didn't climb. Drank a bunch of IPA. Sunday: Didn't climb. Made cilantro-garlic burgers for wife's parents and my dad on Father's Day. Built fountain for front yard. Drank a bunch of IPA. Today: Back at work. I'm dumb.

Hey Off, I am guessing that the difference in the couloirs has to do with altitude??? The Sierras tend to be much higher, I think, so rather than melt, the snow consolidates in to ice down there, whereas here in the relatively low elevations of the Cascades, the snow simply melts completely away? Does that sound about right? I always see photos of things like the V Notch Couloir and drool, wishing there was stuff like that around here....

Chamonix? Leavenworth??? Bishop is a good call... I would personally love to live in Wanaka, NZ at some point...but the summers are short and the winters are long over there....

My personal nemesis: When the nipple on your water bladder pops off while you're belaying your partner across the knife-edge hand-traverse section of the N Ridge of Stuart and you lose your entire day's water supply as well as saturating your entire body in the process in the cold wind.... I have repeated that maneuver, or some variation of it, again...and again...and again....

What's the name of the unroped ridge traverse that you're referring to, Tvash'? Which hut?

BUMP

Nice images and way to persevere in the storm. Yeah, they could have left their wands assuming that you'd pick them up...but I find it odd that you would (presumably) encounter this group in person and not communicate about the wands when you had a chance, but then slam them later online and anonymously... bad form, in MY book!

Thanks for posting this. People are dumb.

My buddy and I headed out one morning in a dense fog to climb Sharkfin Tower. Disoriented and stupid in the whiteout, we missed Sharkfin (appreciably) and climbed steep snowslopes up towards the col just south of Boston Peak. There on the col, I consulted my altimeter cuz something didn't seem quite right....there, we were actually above the summit of Sharkfin (according to the altimeter) and I figured out that we were at Boston Peak instead. D U M B. Anyhoo, we decided to climb back down the steep snow in the mist, and we were getting ready to do so, there, leaning against a rock, was a grivel ice ax. Where's the coincidence in all this? Well, if you lost that grivel ice ax, I still have it...so let me know and perhaps you'll be able to fill in the first part of this story...

Interesting. Is there a recommended website which discusses the details in more detail?